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adjusting vee brakes
Hello. I have a Giant Expression bought new 3 months ago. The rear
brakes are now totally ineffective. When I first noticed this I twisted the cable near the brake lever and this worked for a week or so. I've done this a few times but now I can't do this without the cable dropping out of the lever. Can I adjust the cable near the brake pad? I couldn't see how to do this and the maintenance book I have refers to cantilever brakes only Thaks for any help /dave |
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dave wrote:
Hello. I have a Giant Expression bought new 3 months ago. The rear brakes are now totally ineffective. When I first noticed this I twisted the cable near the brake lever and this worked for a week or so. I've done this a few times but now I can't do this without the cable dropping out of the lever. Can I adjust the cable near the brake pad? Yes. Where the cable joins the brake mechanism there should be a bolt you can loosen off. Once it is loose you can pull the cable through and retighten it a little further up the cable which should have the desired effect. Before you do this, screw the adjuster at the lever itself back in all the way, so it can be used for the next round of minor adjustment. When you're setting the new cable position, hold the brakes at the place you want them to be at rest while pulling the cable taught with your other hand. Then, with your third hand (!) do up the bolt. Pete. -- Peter Clinch Medical Physics IT Officer Tel 44 1382 660111 ext. 33637 Univ. of Dundee, Ninewells Hospital Fax 44 1382 640177 Dundee DD1 9SY Scotland UK net http://www.dundee.ac.uk/~pjclinch/ |
#3
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dave wrote: Hello. I have a Giant Expression bought new 3 months ago. The rear brakes are now totally ineffective. When I first noticed this I twisted the cable near the brake lever and this worked for a week or so. I've done this a few times but now I can't do this without the cable dropping out of the lever. Can I adjust the cable near the brake pad? I couldn't see how to do this and the maintenance book I have refers to cantilever brakes only Thaks for any help /dave Are they rubbing or do you just use them a lot? Rear brakes shouldn't wear so quickly that they don't touch the rim hard enough to stop you - I've gone from a new set of shimano pads to worn out in a couple of weeks, and obviously the amount you have to pull the levers has altered but they still work right. I suspect there's more adjustment to be done than just cable length - are the pads centred around the rim properly? |
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On 25/11/04 12:25 pm, in article , "Peter
Clinch" wrote: When you're setting the new cable position, hold the brakes at the place you want them to be at rest while pulling the cable taught with your other hand. Then, with your third hand (!) do up the bolt. I should point out that you use the third hand to hold the brakes, and the first and second hands to pull the cable and tighten the bolt. Yes there is a 'third hand tool' you can buy new for this purpose. ...d |
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David Martin wrote:
When you're setting the new cable position, hold the brakes at the place you want them to be at rest while pulling the cable taught with your other hand. Then, with your third hand (!) do up the bolt. I should point out that you use the third hand to hold the brakes, and the first and second hands to pull the cable and tighten the bolt. Yes there is a 'third hand tool' you can buy new for this purpose. Or use an old toe strap I keep for this specific porpoise. :-) R. |
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He could have a gear cable instead of a brake cable and therefore stretching
ludicrously. -- kitemap http://ugcc.co.uk |
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David Brown wrote:
He could have a gear cable instead of a brake cable and therefore stretching ludicrously. They're both steel and shouldn't stretch appreciably in any case. Or so I thought. Pete. -- Peter Clinch Medical Physics IT Officer Tel 44 1382 660111 ext. 33637 Univ. of Dundee, Ninewells Hospital Fax 44 1382 640177 Dundee DD1 9SY Scotland UK net http://www.dundee.ac.uk/~pjclinch/ |
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Peter Clinch wrote in message ...
David Brown wrote: He could have a gear cable instead of a brake cable and therefore stretching ludicrously. They're both steel and shouldn't stretch appreciably in any case. Or so I thought. And the end of a gear cable is noticeably different to that of a brake cable (regardless of whether flat or drop bars are used) - quite hard to get them mixed up. David E. Belcher |
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Richard wrote in message ...
David Martin wrote: When you're setting the new cable position, hold the brakes at the place you want them to be at rest while pulling the cable taught with your other hand. Then, with your third hand (!) do up the bolt. I should point out that you use the third hand to hold the brakes, and the first and second hands to pull the cable and tighten the bolt. Yes there is a 'third hand tool' you can buy new for this purpose. Or use an old toe strap I keep for this specific porpoise. :-) Excellent tip, Richard - I'll certainly bear that one in mind (must be an old toe-strap somewhere down the shed at home). As it is, whilst setting up the cross bike last weekend, I was able to call on the services of Dad as an extra pair of hands during the fiddly business of tensioning the cantilevers! David E. Belcher |
#10
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"David Martin" wrote in message ... On 25/11/04 12:25 pm, in article , "Peter Clinch" wrote: When you're setting the new cable position, hold the brakes at the place you want them to be at rest while pulling the cable taught with your other hand. Then, with your third hand (!) do up the bolt. I should point out that you use the third hand to hold the brakes, and the first and second hands to pull the cable and tighten the bolt. Yes there is a 'third hand tool' you can buy new for this purpose. A piece of string you mean? Save a pound and use a shoelace. ..d |
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