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#21
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French bike - ream the steerer or sand the stem?
Qui si parla Campagnolo wrote:
Chalo wrote: There are probably a lot of 22.0mm French stems that have done decades of service in 22.2mm ISO steerers without the owners even being aware they have the wrong size in there. Read the post...22mm fork, 22.2 quill stem, not the other way around. My point was that the fit didn't have to be all that precise, and therefore he could sand the quill without worry. Best advice is from Phil...new fork, of 22.2, then any stem, including threadless. The only issue there is that a new fork will look wrong on an old bike, cost $$$, or both. Chalo Colina |
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#22
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French bike - ream the steerer or sand the stem?
"Qui si parla Campagnolo" wrote in message ups.com... E Willson wrote: Qui si parla Campagnolo wrote: Hank Wirtz wrote: Just wondering...Who won the lawsuit? The rider that was injured, the loser was the bike shop that did the reaming...about 15 years ago. Interesting. And we know that, 15 years later, it was the reaming as opposed to over-insertion of the quill, butt quality, overheating, etc., etc., that caused the failure? I reamed the steerer on my PX-10 about a million years ago and lived to tell about it. I was young and don't know if it was the right thing to do, but even then I would have needed something more than "a person reamed his steerer 15 years ago and it broke" to form an opinion. My last steel racing frame broke three times in a 25 year period Just Riding Along. I have sanded quills to fit into a French steerer, and it sucks and mars the stem. Personally, I would dump the entire bike and go buy something with standard dimensions. Anything to avoid the non-standard BB, derailleur hanger thread, tube diameter, seatpost size and all the fussy stuff that came original on my '69 PX-10. I hated French bikes. Sorry Sheldon. -- Jay Beattie. |
#23
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French bike - ream the steerer or sand the stem?
Bob wrote in
: On Sun, 02 Oct 2005 23:46:07 -0500, Hank Wirtz wrote: It's a PX-10 and I'm about to have it repainted (Andrew Muzi sold me old decals). I've already bought a new A-9 in French threading from Harris, but I'm starting to wonder if the new steerer might be the better option. Thanks all for the suggestions (and sorry for those who I sniped at who said a stem shouldn't be sanded - I think you're wrong, but hey - I asked). Hank: If it was me, I'd use a more vintage headset, but that's another matter. Sounds like you are going "modern" with the bike. I am - sorta. It's a '75 PX10 that I got in '86 or so. My mom had bought it in '84 to try racing, but it was WAY too big for her (56cm, she's 5'5"), so she gave it to me (I was 13). I repainted it in '88 to match the '87 PX10 (the last year they made it, but that wasn't a REAL PX10,since it was Columbus SLX and not 531) - light blue, with white, yellow & orange decals. I also had the full set of braze-ons added. This last year, I had the rear triangle spread to 130mm, had some new wheels built and hung 9-speed Veloce on it (hubs, cassette, derailleurs & Ergos). I got some Phil Wood retainer rings and a UN-72 BB and put on a Sugino XD triple. For brakes, I got some Tektro 521AGs. I'd thought about Veloces with drop bolts, but I wanted 28mm tires with fenders, so I opted for a long reach brake. Took the polish wheel on my Dremel and removed the Tektro logo. So with mostly new parts, my idea was to get the frame looking vintage again, I got the original decals from Andrew Muzi at Yellow Jersey, and I'm going to get it repainted in the metallic blue with gold lug edging that was on most of the UO8s (but some PX10s, too - Sheldon has one). So, yeah, I'm in WAY past what a house-brand aluminum bike with 105 from NashPerGo would run me, but I test rode some bikes at the bike show this last spring, and I didn't like the feel of any of them. Wheelbase was too short, steering was too slow, and they just felt kind of dead. Even though some of them weighed 6 or 7 pounds less than my PX10. I like my 75 deg head tube. I like my fender and tire clearance. I like that the thing is pretty close to an heirloom in my family. Some people ask me why I'm not keeping it with classic parts. The answer is simple: I like to ride the thing, and most of the new parts work better than the old ones. Just not the frame. The best compliment you can pay an old bike is to ride it, and that's why I'm doing the Retro- Modern thing with my PX10. "Does anybody have any questions?" -Hank |
#24
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French bike - ream the steerer or sand the stem?
Hank Wirtz wrote: It's a PX-10 and I'm about to have it repainted (Andrew Muzi sold me old decals). I've already bought a new A-9 in French threading from Harris, but I'm starting to wonder if the new steerer might be the better option. Thanks all for the suggestions (and sorry for those who I sniped at who said a stem shouldn't be sanded - I think you're wrong, but hey - I asked). -HW FYI, I'm a framebuilder, Hank. You will probably have stack height problems with an A9 headset. I'd check it first. But if you're going through Andrew you're in good hands. Phil Brown |
#25
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French bike - ream the steerer or sand the stem?
"philcycles" wrote in
oups.com: Hank Wirtz wrote: It's a PX-10 and I'm about to have it repainted (Andrew Muzi sold me old decals). I've already bought a new A-9 in French threading from Harris, but I'm starting to wonder if the new steerer might be the better option. Thanks all for the suggestions (and sorry for those who I sniped at who said a stem shouldn't be sanded - I think you're wrong, but hey - I asked). -HW FYI, I'm a framebuilder, Hank. You will probably have stack height problems with an A9 headset. I'd check it first. But if you're going through Andrew you're in good hands. Phil Brown I did, and I'm OK. The old Stronglight Competition was pretty tall to begin with, and I now have an extra 3mm spacer in the place of the centerpull cable hanger I'm no longer using. And I only bought the decals from Andrew. He's in Wisconsin and I'm in Washington. I'm actually talking with Dan Towle at R&E Cycles in Seattle, who Andrew recommended. I sent him an email today to ask about the steerer tube replacement, so I may wind up throwing that A-9 up on ebay. |
#26
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French bike - ream the steerer or sand the stem?
On Sun, 02 Oct 2005 23:46:07 -0500, Hank Wirtz
wrote: It's a PX-10 and I'm about to have it repainted (Andrew Muzi sold me old decals). I've already bought a new A-9 in French threading from Harris, but I'm starting to wonder if the new steerer might be the better option. Thanks all for the suggestions (and sorry for those who I sniped at who said a stem shouldn't be sanded - I think you're wrong, but hey - I asked). If you want, get out some oven cleaner and strip the stem entirely. it will then be like a TRUE french stem, none of my atax / ava stems are anodized. then get out the 2000 grit and rubbing compound and polish that sucker to a holographic mirror shine. nothing is more beautiful than a piece of aluminum polished in this way ... - Don Gillies San Diego, CA |
#27
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French bike - ream the steerer or sand the stem?
On 3 Oct 2005 07:57:41 -0700, "Qui si parla Campagnolo"
wrote: E Willson wrote: Qui si parla Campagnolo wrote: Hank Wirtz wrote: Just wondering...Who won the lawsuit? The rider that was injured, the loser was the bike shop that did the reaming...about 15 years ago. I take it that the rider did not go to this bike shop and say in so many words "I want this steerer reamed", then? Jasper |
#28
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French bike - ream the steerer or sand the stem?
Chalo wrote: Qui si parla Campagnolo wrote: Chalo wrote: There are probably a lot of 22.0mm French stems that have done decades of service in 22.2mm ISO steerers without the owners even being aware they have the wrong size in there. Read the post...22mm fork, 22.2 quill stem, not the other way around. My point was that the fit didn't have to be all that precise, and therefore he could sand the quill without worry. Sure, make that thin-ish quill thinner, no problem breaking a quill. Or maybe just get the quill started and hammer the thing in with a big mallet..... Best advice is from Phil...new fork, of 22.2, then any stem, including threadless. The only issue there is that a new fork will look wrong on an old bike, cost $$$, or both. Chalo Colina |
#29
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French bike - ream the steerer or sand the stem?
Qui si parla Campagnolo wrote:
Chalo wrote: My point was that the fit didn't have to be all that precise, and therefore he could sand the quill without worry. Sure, make that thin-ish quill thinner, no problem breaking a quill. Or maybe just get the quill started and hammer the thing in with a big mallet..... So let me get this straight... you have no problem giving up 6.4mm on the stem interface diameter (28.6 22.2), but you fret over that last 0.2mm? Remember that quill stems, being a poor structural design to begin with, are always quite thick-walled. And most of them have loose tolerances on top of that. It all works out because the thin-walled, threaded steerer will almost invariably break first. Chalo Colina |
#30
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French bike - ream the steerer or sand the stem?
"Chalo" wrote: Qui si parla Campagnolo wrote: Chalo wrote: My point was that the fit didn't have to be all that precise, and therefore he could sand the quill without worry. Sure, make that thin-ish quill thinner, no problem breaking a quill. Or maybe just get the quill started and hammer the thing in with a big mallet..... So let me get this straight... you have no problem giving up 6.4mm on the stem interface diameter (28.6 22.2), but you fret over that last 0.2mm? Remember that quill stems, being a poor structural design to begin with, are always quite thick-walled. And most of them have loose tolerances on top of that. It all works out because the thin-walled, threaded steerer will almost invariably break first. Chalo Colina I agree with you in principle that the last .2mm doesn't make a difference. However, my only experience with a vintage stem was not good. My first road bike was something that I found in my parent's garage, an Austrian? bike from around 1970 or thereabouts with the plastic Simplex derailleurs. I rode it from jr. high through the end of high school, and it served as the commute bike after I got nicer bikes midway through high school. I fixed it up as well as I could without spending any money (e.g. after the front derailleur died, I shifted down by kicking the chain over and shifted up by picking the chain up with my fingers). When I finally pulled the stem all the way out after riding it for several years, I discovered that the quill was broken all the way through. I had adjusted the height before, but that was the first time I had pulled it out. The quill was actually in two pieces, only held together by the wedge bolt. I don't know the history of bike, so I don't know how it broke. I just shoved it back in deeper and kept it in use because there was a decent length of the upper quill intact. By the way the stem I had looked just like the one on this PX-10: http://www.classicrendezvous.com/Fra...eug_63PX10.htm |
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