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#161
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Stronger rubber cement?
On Tuesday, January 17, 2017 at 6:10:54 PM UTC-8, jbeattie wrote:
On Tuesday, January 17, 2017 at 5:59:34 PM UTC-8, John B. wrote: On Tue, 17 Jan 2017 07:50:19 -0800, Joerg wrote: On 2017-01-16 19:28, jbeattie wrote: On Monday, January 16, 2017 at 4:23:53 PM UTC-8, Joerg wrote: On 2017-01-16 13:39, Sir Ridesalot wrote: On Monday, January 16, 2017 at 2:39:18 PM UTC-5, jbeattie wrote: On Monday, January 16, 2017 at 11:03:05 AM UTC-8, Joerg wrote: On 2017-01-16 10:43, David Scheidt wrote: Joerg wrote: :Yup. Standard bicycle tubes are usually junk. Would you accept it if you :had to pump up the tires of your car every two weeks? Yet most cyclists :think this is "normal". Automotive tires have a much lower ratio of surface area to volume than bike tires. They're also run a lower pressure, for the most part. Truck tires are often operated around 50psi or higher. Like my MTB tires are. A truck tire weights as a much as TWO UCI minimum race bikes -- or one DH bike. Now throw in the rim. You have peculiar expectations for bicycles. You're theoretically perfect bike would weigh about 250lbs. -- Jay Beattie. I've said it before and I'll say it again. What Joerg's wants in a bicycle are would be met by a 250cc dirt-motorcycle converted to pedal power and the engine removed. I find it astounding that so many others who ride in very harsh conditions do NOT have the breakages or other problems that Joerg does. According to several bicycle shop owners they do. Many said that two factors allowed them to survive as a business: 1. Mountain bikers breaking stuff all the time. 2. Department store bike buyers who needed help and found that the store that sold their bikes was less than helpful. Unlike cars, which never need to be fixed, and that's why there are no auto repair shops. http://tinyurl.com/jba5fgb Care to compare the number of vehicles plus the miles traveled? Maybe then it becomes more clear. Cars are way more reliable than bicycles. Especially if you buy top quality cars like we did. Other than regular scheduled maintenance there were no breakdowns in the whole two decades we own them. None, as in zero. Not even one flat tire. Try that with a bicycle. You talk about your auto escapades as hauling a half a cord of wood in your SUV. You describe your bicycle riding as speeding down rocky hills, leaping over bumps and unexpectedly diving into lakes. If you drove your car the way that you claim to ride your bike I think that you would have a very different concept of how bullet proof your car is. I've spent considerable time around trucks that haul heavy loads over unimproved roads and my experience was that they definitely did require frequent repairs. I've also been around off the road racing cars and they took even more maintenance than the trucks. As usual, you are not comparing apples and apples. I ride with a guy who races motorcycles. He can go through a set of tires over the course of weekend -- and they cost a mint. Talk about an expensive hobby. -- Jay Beattie. Expensive.. hmm... Wasn't Enron crashing Ferraris on weekends right before 9/11 ? |
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#162
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Stronger rubber cement?
AE6KS
contact surface area contact surface area ....urethane foam ? wow talk about wooden tires ...where's the contact patch ? speculatin ? Look, if urethane foam offered more feel less resistance we'd be riding on urethane foam. but tubeless.......no rub rub rub tween tube n tire walls . eyehahahhahhah fantastic. However the surface area for improvement from this advance is limited....more speculation. Or the vastly greater surface area in auto gives much more feel...? over 300 HP ? Prob not but cheaper it is and more cost effective over in repair. butbutbut weight vs surface area for 'feel' what's conversion to no rub rub rub cost ? bottom end $500 ? DIY sheet we cannah get the lawyer/purist to spring for a better tire grade. at $35 where's the market ? fancy techno cyclists in Santa Cruz ? Kansas wheat farmers ? college kids ? ifn ura gonna market a tubeless tire 10% FASTER than a tubed tire....I buy in...otherwise....give it a 2" for 10 years. very glacial no ? in terms o John Q so hows the tubeless market in Portland ? tubeless rain tires feels good ... begs for an audience. |
#163
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Stronger rubber cement?
On Tuesday, January 17, 2017 at 10:48:30 PM UTC-5, DATAKOLL MARINE RESEARCH wrote:
AE6KS contact surface area contact surface area ....urethane foam ? wow talk about wooden tires ...where's the contact patch ? speculatin ? Look, if urethane foam offered more feel less resistance we'd be riding on urethane foam. but tubeless.......no rub rub rub tween tube n tire walls . eyehahahhahhah fantastic. However the surface area for improvement from this advance is limited....more speculation. Or the vastly greater surface area in auto gives much more feel...? over 300 HP ? Prob not but cheaper it is and more cost effective over in repair. butbutbut weight vs surface area for 'feel' what's conversion to no rub rub rub cost ? bottom end $500 ? DIY sheet we cannah get the lawyer/purist to spring for a better tire grade. at $35 where's the market ? fancy techno cyclists in Santa Cruz ? Kansas wheat farmers ? college kids ? ifn ura gonna market a tubeless tire 10% FASTER than a tubed tire....I buy in...otherwise....give it a 2" for 10 years. very glacial no ? in terms o John Q so hows the tubeless market in Portland ? tubeless rain tires feels good ... begs for an audience. https://www.google.com/#q=tubeless+t...04 0027342438 treat treat |
#164
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Stronger rubber cement?
On Tue, 17 Jan 2017 07:43:37 -0800, Joerg
wrote: On 2017-01-16 18:04, John B. wrote: On Mon, 16 Jan 2017 17:11:50 -0800, Joerg wrote: On 2017-01-16 16:50, John B. wrote: On Mon, 16 Jan 2017 10:16:51 -0800, Joerg wrote: On 2017-01-05 02:04, Tosspot wrote: On 04/01/17 20:05, Joerg wrote: On 2017-01-03 17:04, Joerg wrote: Gentlemen, Is there something stronger than the usual rubber cement in the patch kits? Ideally something that won't dry out so fast or where multiple cheap small tubes are available. The reason is that I sometimes have larger holes from side wall blow-outs. Not inch-long gashes but one or two tenths of an inch long. The tubes I use are super thick and, therefore, expensive. $15-20 each and that's not something to be thrown out lightly. Instead of the li'l REMA patches I need to use thicker rubber from an older sacrified tube but this has to be vulcanized/cemented really well. Thanks to all responders (also Barry and Doug). I'll order Slime Rubber Cement with my next Amazon shipment because that's what David uses, he says it works well and it isn't expensive: https://www.amazon.com/Slime-1050-Ru.../dp/B003V9UU66 Whatwhat!! Are you *seriously* claiming r.b.t has been useful!? What ever is the world coming to? Usenet is very useful, I guess that's where the name comes from. A lot of hints here go into my bicycle files, in the sense of "If ... ever breaks consider replacing it with ..." or "If it breaks don't ever use ...". When I mentioned in a post in a newsgroup that I had bonked, want to avoid it but can't stand the cyclist astronaut food or any sweet stuff someone responded with a link to a recipe for homemade non-sweet power bars. My wife bakes them to this day. Yesterday I shared these bars with another rider who really likes them as well. Can't buy them anywhere. Out of curiosity, is your wife's recipe actually free of sugar, in any form, or it just doesn't taste sweet? It has a pinch of sugar for some reason, not sure if that can be left out or replaced with something else. You can't taste it though. While they also mention just a pinch of salt we add several pinches because in summer one sweats out a lot of salt here. Got it only in German but if really interested I could translate it: http://www.chefkoch.de/rezepte/14555...sliriegel.html It's a little more work than it looks like, with the bacon and all that, and cutting into bars at the end so they can be packed on a bicycle. My wife puts all of them into the freezer and then moves as many as needed to the fridge a couple days before rides. That looks like a recipe for some sort of Oatmeal cookies with bacon, rather than the usual "power Bar" concept, which is usually something that your body can get a quick bunch of energy from to replace what you have lost. I make sure I eat them during a scheduled break at some nice and scenic area, not after I begin to feel a hard bonk coming up. The latter is a mistake I only made once and don't want to experience that again. These bar get me through the rides quite nicely. Usually 40-45 miles, partially under a lot of power. The difference is usually in how fast your body converts carbohydrates to energy. Simple carbohydrates, essentially sugars, are converted rapidly and complex carbohydrates like starches are converted much slower. Which is, of course, why all the energy drinks contain dextrose or sucrose or some other simple carbs. Back when I was running I "bonked" or may better, "crashed and burned". I reached the point where even after sitting down and resting for a while I physically could not run any longer. I would sit down and rest until I felt better and set off again and within 100 yards, or less, wouldn't be able to run any more. -- Cheers, John B. |
#165
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Stronger rubber cement?
On Tue, 17 Jan 2017 07:55:50 -0800, Joerg
wrote: On 2017-01-16 17:18, John B. wrote: On Mon, 16 Jan 2017 11:03:04 -0800, Joerg wrote: On 2017-01-16 10:43, David Scheidt wrote: Joerg wrote: :Yup. Standard bicycle tubes are usually junk. Would you accept it if you :had to pump up the tires of your car every two weeks? Yet most cyclists :think this is "normal". Automotive tires have a much lower ratio of surface area to volume than bike tires. They're also run a lower pressure, for the most part. Truck tires are often operated around 50psi or higher. Like my MTB tires are. Have you ever tried to pick up a truck tire"? Yes. A typical 45" truck tire, say a B.F. Goodrich 445/65R-22.5, weighs, according to the manufacturer some 215 lbs. Standard operating pressure is in the neighborhood of 120 psi. Comparing bicycle tires with tires for other vehicles is, to say the least, a bit silly. Unless, of course you plan on a 600 lb. bicycle :-) I meant for pickup trucks. You can get regular tires with a limited pressure range or slightly more expensive commercial grade ones for much higher pressure. They make a lot of sense if the truck is going to operated under a lot of load or on rough turf. A neighbor had them on his Dodge Dakota and IIRC they were rated at 75psi max. The Dakota is not even a large pickup truck, more the size of a compact car. [...] The Dodge is a probably called a 3/4 ton pickup it is rated at 1,700 lbs load. Over here you can buy larger wheels to fit pickups, and most people seem to use them. I bought my Isuzu second-hand and it had large wheels and tires on it when I bought it -- Cheers, John B. |
#166
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Stronger rubber cement?
On Tue, 17 Jan 2017 09:47:33 -0800, Joerg
wrote: On 2017-01-17 08:21, jbeattie wrote: On Tuesday, January 17, 2017 at 7:50:18 AM UTC-8, Joerg wrote: On 2017-01-16 19:28, jbeattie wrote: On Monday, January 16, 2017 at 4:23:53 PM UTC-8, Joerg wrote: On 2017-01-16 13:39, Sir Ridesalot wrote: On Monday, January 16, 2017 at 2:39:18 PM UTC-5, jbeattie wrote: On Monday, January 16, 2017 at 11:03:05 AM UTC-8, Joerg wrote: On 2017-01-16 10:43, David Scheidt wrote: Joerg wrote: :Yup. Standard bicycle tubes are usually junk. Would you accept it if you :had to pump up the tires of your car every two weeks? Yet most cyclists :think this is "normal". Automotive tires have a much lower ratio of surface area to volume than bike tires. They're also run a lower pressure, for the most part. Truck tires are often operated around 50psi or higher. Like my MTB tires are. A truck tire weights as a much as TWO UCI minimum race bikes -- or one DH bike. Now throw in the rim. You have peculiar expectations for bicycles. You're theoretically perfect bike would weigh about 250lbs. -- Jay Beattie. I've said it before and I'll say it again. What Joerg's wants in a bicycle are would be met by a 250cc dirt-motorcycle converted to pedal power and the engine removed. I find it astounding that so many others who ride in very harsh conditions do NOT have the breakages or other problems that Joerg does. According to several bicycle shop owners they do. Many said that two factors allowed them to survive as a business: 1. Mountain bikers breaking stuff all the time. 2. Department store bike buyers who needed help and found that the store that sold their bikes was less than helpful. Unlike cars, which never need to be fixed, and that's why there are no auto repair shops. http://tinyurl.com/jba5fgb Care to compare the number of vehicles plus the miles traveled? Maybe then it becomes more clear. Cars are way more reliable than bicycles. Especially if you buy top quality cars like we did. Other than regular scheduled maintenance there were no breakdowns in the whole two decades we own them. None, as in zero. Not even one flat tire. Try that with a bicycle. I just spent $1,200 on a clutch because my dopey son lives in a city with 20% grades up to stop lights. That does not include the motel bill and towing when the clutch went belly-up outside of Baker City. That was after new rear drums, bearings, etc., etc. I've stupidly re-bought that car -- not including gas and oil changes. Get a new son 8-) I drive a stick-shift and have hauled copious amounts of fuel pellets, lumber, industrial equipment, plus half-ton loads of firewood over some really bad dirt roads. We have a very hilly terrain including some steep roads that can scare people. Nothing ever broke. You mean like http://tinyurl.com/zzywnde ? Note that the road is in use. An F-1 patch costs me $.08. A decent bike is $1K, and I don't pay insurance, registration, licensing, etc. You do pay insurance. Bike mishaps are simply covered by other insurance such as home owner's but you must pay the premiums. Else you might lose all you've got if you screw up in traffic and cause a serious crash. One of the many reason for umbrella policies. As a lawyer you should know :-) What I pay in car insurance annually would buy me an all new bike every year. Skip cleaning the chain -- just put last year's bike out with the garbage. Plus, my bikes are reliable. I reliably change the chain when the wear indicator indicates and change the tires when they are worn out. I fix a flat now and then and do other routine maintenance. It's not like some monumental inconvenience, and if flats were epidemic, then I would switch to a hard-case tire. I would not agonize over the fact that the 20lb tire on my Subaru goes flat less often. My point is that when I say I am going to be there for an important meeting at 11:30am I don't want to leave half an hour earlier just in case I get a flat. And good luck getting that Gatorksin tire back onto one of my rims. That is not to say that bike tires are not ridiculously expensive. I do have issues with the cost of certain bike-related things. For the MTB I have (almost) found the solution. The best tires seem to come from Asia and they also happen to be cheap. The MTB still costs a bit much to operate per mile but oh well. Still looking for a solution for the road bike and I'll have to find that soon because I just mounted the last Gatorskin from the stack. -- Cheers, John B. |
#167
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Stronger rubber cement?
On Tue, 17 Jan 2017 06:48:12 -0800 (PST), jbeattie
wrote: http://www.loupiote.com/photos_m/796...re-bicycle.jpg Could you run that back and forth on my driveway a few times? -- Joy Beeson, U.S.A., mostly central Hoosier, some Northern Indiana, Upstate New York, Florida, and Hawaii joy beeson at comcast dot net http://wlweather.net/PAGEJOY/ The above message is a Usenet post. I don't recall having given anyone permission to use it on a Web site. |
#168
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Stronger rubber cement?
"James" wrote in message news On 18/01/17 07:59, James wrote: On 18/01/17 06:36, jbeattie wrote: [Snip] BTW, I've witnessed others bitching and moaning about Gatorskin tyres. Thankfully I've never needed to bother looking for more puncture resistant tyres than my favourite Michelin Pro 4s. -- JS I have no problem fitting 25mm wire beaded Gatorskins on Open Pro rims on my winter training bike. Like you I would prefer to run Pro 4s on the winter bike as I do on my summer bike but I find them vulnerable to the rock salt they spread on the UK roads in winter. When the roads are wet there are shards of this stuff that behave just like glass and slice through the Pro 4s. The Gatorskins seem to cope with it much better. Even then carefull inspection is necessary to spot any embedded shards and remove them before they work their way through. The Gatorskins feel like barges compared to the Pro 4s but no bad thing on a winter trainer. Also with respect to other threads the summer bike is full CF and weighs in just above the UCI limit and the winter trainer has an aluminium frame with carbon forks complete with mudguard (fender) eyes and is 5kgs (12lbs) heavier. The first ride on the summer bike in mid to late spring feels so good after a winter on the training bike. Graham. --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus |
#169
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Stronger rubber cement?
On 2017-01-17 11:36, jbeattie wrote:
On Tuesday, January 17, 2017 at 10:56:13 AM UTC-8, Joerg wrote: On 2017-01-17 10:36, jbeattie wrote: On Tuesday, January 17, 2017 at 9:47:32 AM UTC-8, Joerg wrote: On 2017-01-17 08:21, jbeattie wrote: [...] What I pay in car insurance annually would buy me an all new bike every year. Skip cleaning the chain -- just put last year's bike out with the garbage. Plus, my bikes are reliable. I reliably change the chain when the wear indicator indicates and change the tires when they are worn out. I fix a flat now and then and do other routine maintenance. It's not like some monumental inconvenience, and if flats were epidemic, then I would switch to a hard-case tire. I would not agonize over the fact that the 20lb tire on my Subaru goes flat less often. My point is that when I say I am going to be there for an important meeting at 11:30am I don't want to leave half an hour earlier just in case I get a flat. And good luck getting that Gatorksin tire back onto one of my rims. If it takes you half an hour to fix a flat, you have other problems that need to be addressed. Yeah, I could get new rims and/or different tires. That is why finding a suitable tire isn't easy. You are welcome to come over and try getting a Gatorskin onto my rims. Dude, I was mounting first generation Turbos on E2s rims using my bare thumbs, but when I could no longer stand the pain, I got a VAR tool and packed that. http://tinyurl.com/j9ul39s I've got various sets of really good tire levers. They are of no use when wrestling the bead over the rim. Try Gatorskins on a flat Mavic Argent rim. I am by far not the only one and people have used all sorts of tricks. Problem is, there are no trick, just raw force. ... There are other options as well. http://tinyurl.com/j2otl8g Snaps off in seconds. And if you are riding such gnarly ****, how is it that you are still riding vintage rims? I would assume the brake surface is worn nearly through or the rim is bashed up enough to justify a new rim manufactured in the last decade with a deeper profile and a better fit for most tires. This is my 1982 road bike. I do not brake all that much so the rims are ok. I also have two MTB where changing out a tire is a matter of minutes and I could do it with one hand if I wanted to. -- Regards, Joerg http://www.analogconsultants.com/ |
#170
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Stronger rubber cement?
On 2017-01-17 15:26, DATAKOLL MARINE RESEARCH wrote:
analog, I will not explain tire mounting again. Retard at your own speed I have explained to you that these are _flat_ rims. Hard to understand? -- Regards, Joerg http://www.analogconsultants.com/ |
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