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Soldering Cable Ends
After reading hundreds of posts concerning this for a couple years, I
finally did it. http://llatikcuf.home.comcast.net/cableend1.jpg For anyone that was wondering, it's very easy. Nothing expensive involved, I used a $2 butane pencil torch without trouble and $8 worth of supplies. Took about ~30 seconds per cable. Results were very good, better than expected. I tried a bunch of cables: cheap, expensive, brand name, generic and could not find one this combo did not work with. I used: -18 gauge silver solder/braze alloy, 45% silver, 30% copper and 25% zinc, cadmium free. - Borate fluoride mix, black high temperature flux (use in a well ventilated area, a respirator wouldn't hurt.) The guy I bought my supplies from said this combo will work on copper, brass, steel, stainless steel and cast iron. -nate |
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#2
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Llatikcuf wrote:
After reading hundreds of posts concerning this for a couple years, I finally did it. http://llatikcuf.home.comcast.net/cableend1.jpg For anyone that was wondering, it's very easy. Nothing expensive involved, I used a $2 butane pencil torch without trouble and $8 worth of supplies. Took about ~30 seconds per cable. Results were very good, better than expected. I tried a bunch of cables: cheap, expensive, brand name, generic and could not find one this combo did not work with. I used: -18 gauge silver solder/braze alloy, 45% silver, 30% copper and 25% zinc, cadmium free. - Borate fluoride mix, black high temperature flux (use in a well ventilated area, a respirator wouldn't hurt.) The guy I bought my supplies from said this combo will work on copper, brass, steel, stainless steel and cast iron. -nate It looks nice....but why? I still don't get it. Lou -- Posted by news://news.nb.nu |
#3
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On Fri, 24 Mar 2006 19:51:44 +0100, Lou Holtman
wrote: Llatikcuf wrote: After reading hundreds of posts concerning this for a couple years, I finally did it. http://llatikcuf.home.comcast.net/cableend1.jpg For anyone that was wondering, it's very easy. Nothing expensive involved, I used a $2 butane pencil torch without trouble and $8 worth of supplies. Took about ~30 seconds per cable. Results were very good, better than expected. I tried a bunch of cables: cheap, expensive, brand name, generic and could not find one this combo did not work with. I used: -18 gauge silver solder/braze alloy, 45% silver, 30% copper and 25% zinc, cadmium free. - Borate fluoride mix, black high temperature flux (use in a well ventilated area, a respirator wouldn't hurt.) The guy I bought my supplies from said this combo will work on copper, brass, steel, stainless steel and cast iron. -nate It looks nice....but why? I still don't get it. I think you just did ;-) It's a tweak, you know? A minor "modification" (notice I didn't use the words 'improvement' or 'upgrade') when the rest of the bike is perfect. For good or for ill, I think it shows a person who is fastidious, conscientious, and proud of their bike (notice I didn't use the words 'anal retentive' or 'obsessed'). Nice job, Nate. She's a beauty. Should also be good for a few ten-thousandths in a 20k time trial.... |
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Lou Holtman wrote:
Llatikcuf wrote: After reading hundreds of posts concerning this for a couple years, I finally did it. http://llatikcuf.home.comcast.net/cableend1.jpg It looks nice....but why? I still don't get it. Lou Maybe I'm just a spas, but when I'm threading used cables (through housing and those little holes in frame stops, shifters and other parts) one strand always catches and bends out of place making it impossible to thread it back through without cutting the end off the cable, reducing the length every time I re-thread it. Then I usually end up poking myself on that FU**ING little single strand and leaving small blood spots on the yellow handles of my wrenches. This is a simple fix to prevent the fraying, especially when threading cables. -nate |
#5
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come back next month with a further review!
waht you need is or are (the plurality is {are?} under discussion) - lineman's plier - has square blunt end(s) and vicegrips the vicegrips are cheap at walmort buy 2, the lineman's pliers are not cheap but wonderfully useful (i got mine from a drunken fisherman) hold the proximal unfrayed section with vicegrips - place grips on cable manually then screwdown and increase pressure - avoiding a flat end cable take lineman's plier and twist the cable - and twist it in the proper direction stupid then cap with a cable cap cable end caps are available at the LBS try not to be an IA asking for one cable cap - buy 20 cable caps - or a "handful" and leave the change. crimping cable caps is an art: as you managed to solder, I leave this to your imagination and intelligence |
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Neil Brooks wrote: Nice job, Nate. She's a beauty. Should also be good for a few ten-thousandths in a 20k time trial.... Who cares about time or speed. Two items that are overrated in the cycling world, what happened to cycling for fun and recreation? I only did it because I think it makes cables easier to deal with and last longer (for me anyways). -nate |
#7
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one works the frays in segments from a point below(or above)the
plier(s) holding the unfrayed cable still (!) and retwists, down a section, retwist - then maybe retwist the entire once frayed in its entirety from the distal end. you'll get the hang of it thru practice. this skill is a "priceless" cycle mechanic - and you'll find out why!! |
#8
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Lou Holtman wrote: Llatikcuf wrote: After reading hundreds of posts concerning this for a couple years, I finally did it. http://llatikcuf.home.comcast.net/cableend1.jpg For anyone that was wondering, it's very easy. Nothing expensive involved, I used a $2 butane pencil torch without trouble and $8 worth of supplies. Took about ~30 seconds per cable. Results were very good, better than expected. I tried a bunch of cables: cheap, expensive, brand name, generic and could not find one this combo did not work with. I used: -18 gauge silver solder/braze alloy, 45% silver, 30% copper and 25% zinc, cadmium free. - Borate fluoride mix, black high temperature flux (use in a well ventilated area, a respirator wouldn't hurt.) The guy I bought my supplies from said this combo will work on copper, brass, steel, stainless steel and cast iron. -nate It looks nice....but why? I still don't get it. It allows the cable to be unanchored, removed and reinstalled in housing, etc, more easily since you don't have to mess with removing and reinstalling crimped on tips, nor with trimming off the squished spot if it doesn't wanna go back through the housing. This loses some relevance if you're one to be fastidious about no previously clamped section of cable being between the anchor and the head, since cables become much less re-usable then. Some people think it's a signficantly better way of keeping the cable from fraying. There's probably some truth in that. Crimped tips can go MIA. Crimping technique and how well the tip fits the cable play a role. My cable tips don't seem to go anywhere although this wasn't always true. Personally I'm in favor of skipping it for the sake of having a little less toxicity in life. One thing I'll note is that there are teflon coated cables that you wouldn't necessarily know are coated by looking at them. No idea what happens when you take a torch to teflon but I wouldn't particularly want to breathe it. I don't know if all the things I've seen about how it's really toxic to weld zinced stuff would apply here (most cheap cables have a zinc coating). |
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#10
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On 24 Mar 2006 11:08:28 -0800, "Llatikcuf"
wrote: Neil Brooks wrote: Nice job, Nate. She's a beauty. Should also be good for a few ten-thousandths in a 20k time trial.... Who cares about time or speed. Two items that are overrated in the cycling world, what happened to cycling for fun and recreation? I only did it because I think it makes cables easier to deal with and last longer (for me anyways). The time trial comment was a (obviously failed) attempt at humor. I think your solder job looks quite elegant.... |
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