Bicycle Tires That Shouldn't Last But Do and Bicycle Tires ThatShould Last But Don't

On 26 Apr, 21:11, AMuzi wrote:
Erness Wild wrote:
I'm using a tire on my "daily use" bicycle that just shouldn't work, but
it does. I exchanged wheels from another old bicycle when the original
tire gave out, as a temporary fix. That was last spring. This tire is
crumbling on the side wall and very old. The newer tire wore out pretty
fast and the tube never held air pressure for more than two days before
needing topping up.
This old tire and tube just won't give out and hold air pressure for two
weeks. Go figure.
Here's a photo of how bad this tire is:
http://i44.tinypic.com/30clma9.jpg
and I'm not complaining, really, just a bit puzzled over what makes a
good tire (many of which don't seem to last anymore) and this old tire
that keeps going even when falling apart.

That is a nylon casing tire; the latex sidewall has crumbled
but it may still be safely ridden as nylon fabric doesn't rot.

A generation before that, most tires were cotton so a
damaged sidewall cover meant a blowout after the cotton
threads were wet.

Er, how about now. Cotton cased trainig tub with much casing showing
(10yo) gets wet without blowing at around 90psi Those tyres you speak
of must have been made from low grade thread(with a short staple). I
think if you buy from a historical tyre manufacturer this problem of
blown cotton tyres is and was non-existent.

Chalo wrote:
jim beam wrote:
Chalo wrote:
Erness Wild wrote:
I'm using a tire on my "daily use" bicycle that just shouldn't work,
but it does. I exchanged wheels from another old bicycle when the
original tire gave out, as a temporary fix. That was last spring. This
tire is crumbling on the side wall and very old. The newer tire wore
out pretty fast and the tube never held air pressure for more than two
days before needing topping up.
This old tire and tube just won't give out and hold air pressure for
two weeks. Go figure.
Here's a photo of how bad this tire is:http://i44.tinypic.com/30clma9.jpg
and I'm not complaining, really, just a bit puzzled over what makes a
good tire (many of which don't seem to last anymore) and this old tire
that keeps going even when falling apart.
Some tires and tubes hold air better than others, and some rims hold
air better than others.
eh? �rims hold air? �are these u.s.t???

Steel is less permeable than rubber, jackass.

The rim in your photo looks like a steel
single-walled rim, so it probably has a rubber rim strip that
functions as a gasket when the tire is inflated. �A double-walled rim
with fabric rim tape is generally much more permeable.
say what???

Rubber over steel is less permeable than cloth over nothing,
jackass.

so next time you get a flat, you can just reposition the tube under the
tire and pump it up then, jackass? cos the steel rim or rubber tire
will seal it, jackass?



Likewise, an old gumwall tire may have much more rubber in the
sidewall, even on just one side of the casing cords, than a newer
skinwall, and may therefore be slower to lose pressure.
tire sidewall makes a difference???

The tire sidewall is the thinnest surface between pressurized and
ambient air, jackass.

you're still missing the point by a country ****ing mile, jackass.



Many folks use tire, tube and rim combinations that obligate them to
top up before every ride (although this is much less common since the
decline of sewup tires). �I have seen others that can hold acceptable
pressure for more than a month.
dude, please please please stop.

go back to your old school, find your old science teachers and give them
a good hard slapping. �they have failed you and damaged you for life.

You are oblivious, ignorant, thick-headed, uncivil, and a completely
unpleasant mother****er to boot-- impossible to learn from and utterly
unwilling to learn. I'm done talking to you, but if anyone else would
like to talk about the diffusion of pressurized air through the rubber
bladder we call a tire, I'll happily oblige.

Jackass.

chalo, you're one of the dumbest ****s out there. not as bad as timmy
or that idiot krygowski, but you're right up there. why? because not
only do you refuse to learn, but you've got absolutely no analytical
thinking capacity whatsoever.

a tube is separated from a rim and a tire by a thin layer of crud, mold
release, oxides, and general detritus that makes an air seal impossible.
you should know that because when you remove a tire, you can pull the
tube out - it's not adhered. thus, as you'd realize, if you had the
slightest bit of sense or could figure out that you were setting
yourself up to look like a complete fool, there is an escape route for
any diffused air. it makes not the slightest ****ing difference whether
a tube is "touching" metal, rubber, or your dumb ass as to diffusion
"leakage" rate.

i invite you again to reposition a punctured tube inside a tire and rim,
pump it up so air is not leaking through the hole in the tire, and you
see how long it stays inflated "sealed" inside its new enclosure. the
rim and tire prevents leakage??? that's a classic of complete non
comprehension.

Nick L Plate wrote:

Jobst Brandt wrote:

The hardened and flaking rubber does little for the tire structure
except keep the cords dry and clean. *If you don't ride them wet, they
should last until the cords fail from oxidation and UV.

My tyres cords are cotton, they'll rot if I leave em wet, they'll
abrade and weaken with dirt, but UV damage, c'mon?

Here in Central Texas, UV kills tires long before wear, weather, or
ozone.

I just fired up an old chopper of mine that has gotten only
intermittent use since I moved back to Texas from Seattle. It was
always a rather low mileage and carefully ridden bike, so the original
2001 tires were still in good shape with little wear and clean
lustrous sidewalls. But during the molding process, some of the
casing threads had been pushed to the surface and slightly visible on
the blackwall. When I rode the bike downtown the other day, I looked
down to find that the outer ply of the front tire's casing had
ruptured and the tread was flailing around. Upon inspection, it
became apparent that the small crescent of sidewall that was peeking
out under the near-complete tarp coverage for the last months had been
crisped by the sun and those few threads that were visible on the
sidewall ripped out like a busted zipper.

I hate it when I have to throw away a tire that still has new-tire
whiskers sticking out from the edges of the tread, but that's what I
did.

Chalo

wrote:
More interesting is the brake track texture with some intention of
improving braking. Are these steel rims?

Jobst Brandt

Steel rims? I think so. The track texture does help, especially in wet
weather.


--
A website is a place, where, when you go there, it does everything
possible to distract you, from finding the information you came there
to see.- E.W.

Erness Wild wrote:
wrote:
More interesting is the brake track texture with some intention of
improving braking. Are these steel rims?

Jobst Brandt

Steel rims? I think so. The track texture does help, especially in wet
weather.



oh dear. you fell into that jobstian trap buddy. i'll go get my popcorn.

wrote:
That's myth and lore! Texture allows water to remain on the brake
track longer, rather than being wiped to a thin film and evaporate as
minimal braking warms the rim. Evaporation is what ultimately dries
the track.

You're probably right. I hear you're the expert on all things bicycle.
(Next to T. Sherman.)

--
A website is a place, where, when you go there, it does everything
possible to distract you, from finding the information you came there
to see.- E.W.

thanks for the warning. you won't need your popcorn.

jim beam wrote:
Erness Wild wrote:
wrote:
More interesting is the brake track texture with some intention of
improving braking. Are these steel rims?

Jobst Brandt

Steel rims? I think so. The track texture does help, especially in wet
weather.



oh dear. you fell into that jobstian trap buddy. i'll go get my popcorn.

--
A website is a place, where, when you go there, it does everything
possible to distract you, from finding the information you came there
to see.- E.W.

Erness Wild wrote:
wrote:
That's myth and lore! Texture allows water to remain on the brake
track longer, rather than being wiped to a thin film and evaporate as
minimal braking warms the rim. Evaporation is what ultimately dries
the track.

You're probably right. I hear you're the expert on all things bicycle.
(Next to T. Sherman.)

Been reading Ed Dolan?

--
Tom Sherman - 42.435731,-83.985007
LOCAL CACTUS EATS CYCLIST - datakoll

Chalo wrote:
Nick L Plate wrote:
Jobst Brandt wrote:
The hardened and flaking rubber does little for the tire structure
except keep the cords dry and clean. �If you don't ride them wet, they
should last until the cords fail from oxidation and UV.
My tyres cords are cotton, they'll rot if I leave em wet, they'll
abrade and weaken with dirt, but UV damage, c'mon?

Here in Central Texas, UV kills tires long before wear, weather, or
ozone.

before wear??? that's another incredibly revealing and fredly chalo
statement!

why do you hang out on a "bike" newsgroup chalo? "circus clown
equipment" would seem more appropriate for you.



I just fired up an old chopper of mine that has gotten only
intermittent use since I moved back to Texas from Seattle. It was
always a rather low mileage and carefully ridden bike, so the original
2001 tires were still in good shape with little wear and clean
lustrous sidewalls. But during the molding process, some of the
casing threads had been pushed to the surface and slightly visible on
the blackwall. When I rode the bike downtown the other day, I looked
down to find that the outer ply of the front tire's casing had
ruptured and the tread was flailing around. Upon inspection, it
became apparent that the small crescent of sidewall that was peeking
out under the near-complete tarp coverage for the last months had been
crisped by the sun and those few threads that were visible on the
sidewall ripped out like a busted zipper.

I hate it when I have to throw away a tire that still has new-tire
whiskers sticking out from the edges of the tread, but that's what I
did.

Chalo

Erness Wild wrote:
wrote:
That's myth and lore! Texture allows water to remain on the brake
track longer, rather than being wiped to a thin film and evaporate as
minimal braking warms the rim. Evaporation is what ultimately dries
the track.

You're probably right. I hear you're the expert on all things bicycle.
(Next to T. Sherman.)


damn - you weren't kidding!