My unicycle's cotterless crank is loose

http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/n...P1070367-1.jpg
There's a picture of my left crank which adjusts side to side
when it's not supposed to. Whenever I try to tighten the black wheel
thing inside of the left crank it still moves slightly side to side.
I
also noticed that when I compared the right and left crank there was
a
hole in the middle of the left crank (the one that needs fixing) and
no hole on the right crank. Is it supposed to be like that and if not
what piece am I missing?

Pepsco wrote:

http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/n...P1070367-1.jpg
There's a picture of my left crank which adjusts side to side
when it's not supposed to. Whenever I try to tighten the black wheel
thing inside of the left crank it still moves slightly side to side.
I
also noticed that when I compared the right and left crank there was
a
hole in the middle of the left crank (the one that needs fixing) and
no hole on the right crank. Is it supposed to be like that and if not
what piece am I missing?

Make sure the nut holding the left crank on is good and tight, If it
is, your uni is safe and fit for use. If the side play annoys you,
you can extract the crank and add a shim or shims behind the arm to
take up some of the extra space. DO NOT add enough shims as to remove
all end play from the crank spindle; this will more than likely
destroy your uni's bearings in short order.

Acknowledge that your uni is a primitive and poorly engineered
machine, and thus will have some qualities that make it seem less than
fully sorted out. If you can figure out a way to turn unicyclists
into engineers, or make engineers care about unicycles, you can help
remedy the problem. Good luck with that!

Chalo

On 5/21/2011 3:41 AM, Çhâlõ Çólîñã wrote:
[...]
Acknowledge that your uni is a primitive and poorly engineered
machine, and thus will have some qualities that make it seem less than
fully sorted out. If you can figure out a way to turn unicyclists
into engineers, or make engineers care about unicycles, you can help
remedy the problem. Good luck with that!

Indeed. The proper fix for a unicycle is to add two (2) additional
wheels and a hard-shell fairing.

--
Tºm Shermªn - 42.435731,-83.985007
I am a vehicular cyclist.

Pepsco wrote:
http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/n...P1070367-1.jpg
There's a picture of my left crank which adjusts side to side
when it's not supposed to. Whenever I try to tighten the black wheel
thing inside of the left crank it still moves slightly side to side.
I
also noticed that when I compared the right and left crank there was
a
hole in the middle of the left crank (the one that needs fixing) and
no hole on the right crank. Is it supposed to be like that and if not
what piece am I missing?

Didn't you write about this recently?

If you already removed the cranks, lubricated everything,
torqued properly yet it came loose once more, you need a new
crank.
If you haven't you probably should.

The depression in the spindle end is just a center for
machining and not relevant to your problem.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

the parts have worn out of roundness to an elliptical shape where one
diameter is different than another diameter on the parts surfaces.
So when you tighten the parts, the parts are only tight in that area
as a static stationary not moving or revolving device.
Once the parts revolve, the different diameters come back into contact
forcing your adjustments apart once again.
As Chalo writes, it is potentially possible to use bear can Aluminum
shims and red locktite on clean surfaces for boltinhe assembly
together but that's tricky requiring some mechanical skill and sympathy

On Sat, 21 May 2011 15:09:05 -0700 (PDT), kolldata
wrote:

the parts have worn out of roundness to an elliptical shape where one
diameter is different than another diameter on the parts surfaces.
So when you tighten the parts, the parts are only tight in that area
as a static stationary not moving or revolving device.
Once the parts revolve, the different diameters come back into contact
forcing your adjustments apart once again.
As Chalo writes, it is potentially possible to use bear can Aluminum
shims and red locktite on clean surfaces for boltinhe assembly
together but that's tricky requiring some mechanical skill and sympathy


Canned Bear? How's it taste?

Pepsco wrote:

http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/n...P1070367-1.jpg
There's a picture of my left crank which adjusts side to side
when it's not supposed to. Whenever I try to tighten the black wheel
thing inside of the left crank it still moves slightly side to side.
I
also noticed that when I compared the right and left crank there was
a
hole in the middle of the left crank (the one that needs fixing) and
no hole on the right crank. Is it supposed to be like that and if not
what piece am I missing?

Andy got this one right. I misinterpreted your earlier description
and thought you had a two-piece crank, like some BMX bikes from the
'90s. But that form wouldn't work for a uni, because the spindle and
the hub are the same piece, so the outer end must allow the bearings
to slip over.

If your crank is tightened down but still wiggles, as Andy said, it's
time for a new crank arm.

Chalo

On May 21, 9:15*pm, john B. wrote:
On Sat, 21 May 2011 15:09:05 -0700 (PDT), kolldata

wrote:
the parts have worn out of roundness to an elliptical shape where one
diameter is different than another diameter on the parts surfaces.
So when you tighten the parts, the parts are only tight in that area
as a static stationary not moving or revolving device.
Once the parts revolve, the different diameters come back into contact
forcing your adjustments apart once again.
As Chalo writes, it is potentially possible to use bear can Aluminum
shims and red *locktite on clean surfaces for boltinhe assembly
together but that's tricky requiring some mechanical skill and sympathy

Canned Bear? How's it taste?

like OJ. stopped short on an incline when road turned to dirt tipping
an OJ conatiner splashing keyboard. PSYCHO keyboard. I'm at Montana.
Sub bears for sharks

kolldata wrote:
On May 21, 9:15 pm, john B. wrote:
On Sat, 21 May 2011 15:09:05 -0700 (PDT), kolldata

wrote:
the parts have worn out of roundness to an elliptical shape where one
diameter is different than another diameter on the parts surfaces.
So when you tighten the parts, the parts are only tight in that area
as a static stationary not moving or revolving device.
Once the parts revolve, the different diameters come back into contact
forcing your adjustments apart once again.
As Chalo writes, it is potentially possible to use bear can Aluminum
shims and red locktite on clean surfaces for boltinhe assembly
together but that's tricky requiring some mechanical skill and sympathy
Canned Bear? How's it taste?

like OJ. stopped short on an incline when road turned to dirt tipping
an OJ conatiner splashing keyboard. PSYCHO keyboard. I'm at Montana.
Sub bears for sharks

Psycho keyboard?

http://lib.store.yahoo.net/lib/xoxid...-warrior-1.jpg

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

DOES THE current doping scandal have a chase scene or what ?