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carbon bike saddle
Today I rode my first ever carbon bike!
It was/is the Merckx emx-1 with Ultegra components, rim brakes, and 23-622 tires. Yes, as expected quite a difference compared to my steel 80s racer! But one thing wasn't better, actually it was terrible, and that is the saddle which is an "FSR Selle Italia SRA 20mm setback". The issue with it is that it isn't put flat, it tilts to the back so you get the front part of the saddle straight into your carillon! Is this a defect part or do people actually want it that way? Surely, "20mm setback" don't refer to this but to the possibility of moving the saddle back and forth horizontally? PS. Anyone knows what FSR and SRA stand for? DS. TIA -- underground experts united http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573 |
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#2
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carbon bike saddle
On Tue, 02 Oct 2018 22:44:51 +0200, Emanuel Berg
wrote: Today I rode my first ever carbon bike! It was/is the Merckx emx-1 with Ultegra components, rim brakes, and 23-622 tires. Yes, as expected quite a difference compared to my steel 80s racer! But one thing wasn't better, actually it was terrible, and that is the saddle which is an "FSR Selle Italia SRA 20mm setback". The issue with it is that it isn't put flat, it tilts to the back so you get the front part of the saddle straight into your carillon! Is this a defect part or do people actually want it that way? Surely, "20mm setback" don't refer to this but to the possibility of moving the saddle back and forth horizontally? PS. Anyone knows what FSR and SRA stand for? DS. See https://www.selleitalia.com/en/saddles/ for a list of Selle Italia saddles. The seat post should be adjustable to allow the saddle to be set in a comfortable position. -- Cheers, John B. |
#3
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carbon bike saddle
On Tuesday, October 2, 2018 at 1:44:54 PM UTC-7, Emanuel Berg wrote:
Today I rode my first ever carbon bike! It was/is the Merckx emx-1 with Ultegra components, rim brakes, and 23-622 tires. Yes, as expected quite a difference compared to my steel 80s racer! But one thing wasn't better, actually it was terrible, and that is the saddle which is an "FSR Selle Italia SRA 20mm setback". The issue with it is that it isn't put flat, it tilts to the back so you get the front part of the saddle straight into your carillon! Is this a defect part or do people actually want it that way? Surely, "20mm setback" don't refer to this but to the possibility of moving the saddle back and forth horizontally? PS. Anyone knows what FSR and SRA stand for? DS. No. It's not in their line-up. https://www.selleitalia.com/en/saddles/ Set back is usually a characteristic of the seat post and not the saddle, AFAIK. With the saddle, you get variations in rail length, width and diameter/shape (with CF rails). Here is an explanation of the "waviness" of a saddle. https://bike.bikegremlin.com/2017/10...-seat-shape/#1 This is different from "tilt," which is just about saddle/seat post adjustment. I have acclimated to most, but not all, of my OE saddles -- flat, wavy or otherwise, although I'm not a big fan of giant cut-outs. If I can't get a saddle to work for me, I go back to my 1975-6 Cinelli Unicanitor. You certainly don't pick a bike based on the saddle, but it is absolutely amazing how a saddle can affect the ride feel. Some plastic shell, cut-out saddles can be like suspension, and not necessarily in a good way. Before I test ride a bike (or when I rent a bike), I level the saddle and start there. The problem these days is that a lot of the proprietary posts don't use a two-bolt system, and its easy to lose your last adjustment while trying to make your next adjustment. It makes for a long slow test ride. -- Jay Beattie. |
#4
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carbon bike saddle
John B. Slocomb wrote:
The seat post should be adjustable to allow the saddle to be set in a comfortable position. Yes, I found it. -- underground experts united http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573 |
#5
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carbon bike saddle
On Wednesday, October 3, 2018 at 1:30:25 AM UTC-7, Emanuel Berg wrote:
John B. Slocomb wrote: The seat post should be adjustable to allow the saddle to be set in a comfortable position. Yes, I found it. -- underground experts united http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573 Carbon fiber saddles without any padding on them are becoming popular among the ultra-light weight crowd. I cannot even sit on them and they do break about once a year. My favorite is the Prologo Scratch Pro. This doesn't give me blisters anywhere on long rides. |
#6
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3 front derailleur positions for 2 chainrings (was: carbon bike saddle)
Despite putting the saddle straight and pulling
the screws with everyday force, the saddle reverted to the same position in a couple of rides! Maybe I'll just do it again and pull harder... But what I wanted to tell you was another thing, namely, despite this bike having only two chainrings, it seems to have THREE positions for the front derailleur! I suppose this is position 1 - biggest 5 sprockets position 2 - smallest 5 (or 4) sprockets position 3 - the big chainring; all ten (or 9) sprockets to keep the chain a straight as possible for the small chainring, right? But how do you keep track of this when riding? Except for practice, I mean -- underground experts united http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573 |
#7
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3 front derailleur positions for 2 chainrings (was: carbon bike saddle)
On Fri, 05 Oct 2018 21:00:09 +0200, Emanuel Berg
wrote: Despite putting the saddle straight and pulling the screws with everyday force, the saddle reverted to the same position in a couple of rides! Maybe I'll just do it again and pull harder... But what I wanted to tell you was another thing, namely, despite this bike having only two chainrings, it seems to have THREE positions for the front derailleur! I suppose this is position 1 - biggest 5 sprockets position 2 - smallest 5 (or 4) sprockets position 3 - the big chainring; all ten (or 9) sprockets to keep the chain a straight as possible for the small chainring, right? But how do you keep track of this when riding? Except for practice, I mean You need to use the Internet more diligently :-) See https://bit.ly/2BWPSTc for a discussion of the "trim" positions on the front deraileur. -- Cheers, John B. |
#8
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saddle Nm (was: 3 front derailleur positions for 2 chainrings (was: carbon bike saddle))
Despite putting the saddle straight and pulling
the screws with everyday force, the saddle reverted to the same position in a couple of rides! Maybe I'll just do it again and pull harder... I didn't see it at first, but now I do: there is a small specification below the saddle, right next to the bolts - 8.8Nm. So I put my torque wrench to work. The torque wrench shaft is 22.5cm. While this didn't involve any heavy pulling, it ws still a couple of ratcheting back and for before I got to 8.8. So how you guys do, not 8.8 but 40! - with but a small allen/hex wrench is beyond me. -- underground experts united http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573 |
#9
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saddle Nm (was: 3 front derailleur positions for 2 chainrings
On 10/6/2018 9:10 AM, Emanuel Berg wrote:
Despite putting the saddle straight and pulling the screws with everyday force, the saddle reverted to the same position in a couple of rides! Maybe I'll just do it again and pull harder... I didn't see it at first, but now I do: there is a small specification below the saddle, right next to the bolts - 8.8Nm. So I put my torque wrench to work. The torque wrench shaft is 22.5cm. While this didn't involve any heavy pulling, it ws still a couple of ratcheting back and for before I got to 8.8. So how you guys do, not 8.8 but 40! - with but a small allen/hex wrench is beyond me. I don't know but a DIN Grade 8.8 bolt is not necessarily torqued to 8.8nm: http://cdn.engelbert-strauss.de/asse...4044811994.jpg -- Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org/ Open every day since 1 April, 1971 |
#10
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saddle Nm (was: 3 front derailleur positions for 2 chainrings
AMuzi wrote:
On 10/6/2018 9:10 AM, Emanuel Berg wrote: Despite putting the saddle straight and pulling the screws with everyday force, the saddle reverted to the same position in a couple of rides! Maybe I'll just do it again and pull harder... I didn't see it at first, but now I do: there is a small specification below the saddle, right next to the bolts - 8.8Nm. So I put my torque wrench to work. The torque wrench shaft is 22.5cm. While this didn't involve any heavy pulling, it ws still a couple of ratcheting back and for before I got to 8.8. So how you guys do, not 8.8 but 40! - with but a small allen/hex wrench is beyond me. I don't know but a DIN Grade 8.8 bolt is not necessarily torqued to 8.8nm: http://cdn.engelbert-strauss.de/asse...4044811994.jpg True, but it says literally 8.8Nm! Just as it says 6Nm at the two seat clamp bolts. Also it says 12-14Nm at the left side of the crank. (I put it to 13Nm.) Besides, it makes sense, as th saddle got loose when I just pulled with an allen/hex wrench. This, 8.8Nm, was more than that, so I estimate what I achieved was about 5~6Nm. And my allen/hex wrenches are actually quite long! It is not those tiny you get from IKEA when one (not me) buys furniture... So 40Nm, one, I'd like to see that; and two, I'd like to be that strong myself... -- underground experts united http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573 |
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