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Seating and Stress Relieving the Spokes
I am building a rear wheel and considering trying Sheldon's (RIP)
technique for stress relieving (see the section on this at http://www.sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuild.html) spokes. I have a spare, old left crank arm. But I am wondering how much force/pressure to use. Obviously, this technique cannot be calibrated but I am looking for the experience of others who have done this. Or maybe others have alternatives... Thanks. |
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Seating and Stress Relieving the Spokes
On Mar 10, 12:16 pm, David White wrote:
I am building a rear wheel and considering trying Sheldon's (RIP) technique for stress relieving (see the section on this at http://www.sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuild.html) spokes. I have a spare, old left crank arm. But I am wondering how much force/pressure to use. Obviously, this technique cannot be calibrated but I am looking for the experience of others who have done this. Or maybe others have alternatives... Thanks. I remove the QR and place the axle on a block of wood and lean on the rim till the spoke heads seat, working my way around. It's faster. Don't use so much pressure as to taco the thing. /puts on nomex underbritches |
#3
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Seating and Stress Relieving the Spokes
David White Wrote: I am building a rear wheel and considering trying Sheldon's (RIP) technique for stress relieving (see the section on this at http://www.sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuild.html) spokes. I have a spare, old left crank arm. But I am wondering how much force/pressure to use. Obviously, this technique cannot be calibrated but I am looking for the experience of others who have done this. Or maybe others have alternatives... Thanks. The goal is to make sure the spokes are seated and aligned as good as possible. You want to add significan additional tension in each of the two crossing spokes without plastically deforming them (leaving bends in them approximating the shape of the crank). If you look at Sheldon't picture you will see just about how far you should go. Measure the spoke tension before you do it. Afterward measure again. If there was further seating and aligning the spoke tension will go down. I use a modified version of Sheldon's approach and I do it in several passes, measuring the resulting changes in spoke tension after each pass.... and bringing it back up to 100 kgf each time... until a pass no longer makes any change. I then use the method that landotter suggest to further stabilize the wheel and check it for true, tension, and centering each pass again until there is no longer any change and the wheel is true, centered, and has good spoke tension balance and proper tension level as per the manufacturer's specification. -- daveornee |
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Seating and Stress Relieving the Spokes
On Mar 10, 5:40 pm, still just me wrote:
On Mon, 10 Mar 2008 10:29:36 -0700 (PDT), landotter wrote: I remove the QR and place the axle on a block of wood and lean on the rim till the spoke heads seat, working my way around. It's faster. Don't use so much pressure as to taco the thing. Aren't the spoke heads already seated? Do you push the rim enough to cause a "bounce and return" ? I push the rim enough so the spoke head pulls flat against the flange. Works for me. I am not a professional, your miles may vary, texture may change from lot to lot. |
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Seating and Stress Relieving the Spokes
still just me wrote:
On Mon, 10 Mar 2008 10:29:36 -0700 (PDT), landotter wrote: I remove the QR and place the axle on a block of wood and lean on the rim till the spoke heads seat, working my way around. It's faster. Don't use so much pressure as to taco the thing. Aren't the spoke heads already seated? you mean the elbow wire into the hub? they seat partially just with wheel spoke tension, but not fully. as you might expect, increasing spoke tension above that level seats them further. you want them to be as fully seated as practicable so they will be as stable as possible and thus less subject to fatigue bending. Do you push the rim enough to cause a "bounce and return" ? yes. |
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