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#21
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Innertube Porosity? = Le Cycle to the rescue (as usual)
On Sat, 31 Dec 2005 11:13:00 -0500, Paul Hobson wrote:
Sandy wrote: Dans le message de , Paul Hobson a réfléchi, et puis a déclaré : Someone wrote: Sandy wrote: From its November 2005 issue : Winner overall : Décathlon butyl (1,5€) Loser overall : Challenge latex (10€) INDEFINITE PRONOUN ALERT! What is "its"? Look at the the subject line of your own post (she's referring to Le Cycle) Please do not tamper with my gender ! Sorry. The only Sandy I know in real life was a female. Past tense "was?" Has Sandy changed? Do I really want to know. Ron |
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#22
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Innertube Porosity?
Remove the valve, inject a very strong sugar/water solution, replace dust cap, spin the wheel to distribute the solution inside the tube, drain the solution as much as possible, replace valve and inflate.
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#23
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Innertube Porosity?
On Tuesday, August 29, 2017 at 1:52:10 AM UTC-7, wrote:
Remove the valve, inject a very strong sugar/water solution, replace dust cap, spin the wheel to distribute the solution inside the tube, drain the solution as much as possible, replace valve and inflate. All you have to do is use latex tubes. These have so low a porosity that you only have to pump up your tires slightly one day a week after the initial settling in period. |
#25
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Innertube Porosity?
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#26
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Innertube Porosity?
On Tuesday, August 29, 2017 at 5:56:52 PM UTC-7, James wrote:
On 30/08/17 01:55, wrote: On Tuesday, August 29, 2017 at 1:52:10 AM UTC-7, wrote: Remove the valve, inject a very strong sugar/water solution, replace dust cap, spin the wheel to distribute the solution inside the tube, drain the solution as much as possible, replace valve and inflate. All you have to do is use latex tubes. These have so low a porosity that you only have to pump up your tires slightly one day a week after the initial settling in period. Which latex tubes have low porosity? Ones I've tried meant pumping up tyres every couple of days. Regular butyl tubes stay inflated much longer for me. The cheapest one's available - Victoria. And I have NEVER had any butyl tubes that didn't require pumping up every single day. I would think that you have a fat tire bike with a lot of air capacity tubes that you don't actually check the pressure on until it gets so low that the tires go flat under your weight. |
#27
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Innertube Porosity?
On Tuesday, August 29, 2017 at 5:56:52 PM UTC-7, James wrote:
On 30/08/17 01:55, wrote: On Tuesday, August 29, 2017 at 1:52:10 AM UTC-7, wrote: Remove the valve, inject a very strong sugar/water solution, replace dust cap, spin the wheel to distribute the solution inside the tube, drain the solution as much as possible, replace valve and inflate. All you have to do is use latex tubes. These have so low a porosity that you only have to pump up your tires slightly one day a week after the initial settling in period. Which latex tubes have low porosity? Ones I've tried meant pumping up tyres every couple of days. Regular butyl tubes stay inflated much longer for me. The cheapest one's available - Vitorria. I have NEVER had a butyl tube that didn't require pumping before every single ride and I ride four times a week or more. On my 23 mm tires they lose 20-30 lbs from one day to the next depending upon temperature and how difficult the ride was (which can heat the tires.) |
#28
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Innertube Porosity?
On 8/29/2017 9:24 AM, Joerg wrote:
snip I use super-thick tubes from Kenda and Sunlite. No more flats, pumping required only every 6-8 weeks and it has only dropped from 110psi to 75psi. It's great, I need to work a bit longer on a diagnostic case, miss the Fedex cut-off for truck pick-up, strap the package to the road bike and put the coals on. Zero prep time for the ride. Schwalbe tubes have very low porosity. Add air about every 4 weeks. https://www.schwalbetires.com/bike_tires/tubes/all. The thick tubes also work well but personally I'd rather have better tires to avoid punctures, and use regular tubes. For bicycles where reliability is important, get the Schwalbe tires with the puncture protection. Latex is lighter, but more fragile, more porous, less safe, more difficult to install, and more expensive. Blowouts due to overheated rims are more common with latex if you're doing long steep descents with a lot of heavy braking. Of course if you have disc brakes this is irrelevant. The big hassle with latex is that it's much more porous than butyl so you'll be adding air more often. You basically have to pump up your tires daily. "Loss of pressure should also be considered with regards to latex as it is porous, meaning air leaks out of it. I tested this and found that a 25mm tyre would go from 100 to roughly 85 psi overnight. This means you should be prepared to inflate your tyres before every ride." The bottom line is that unless you're a racer, and really need the lighter weight of latex, avoid latex tubes at all costs. --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus |
#29
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Innertube Porosity?
On Wednesday, August 30, 2017 at 12:03:32 PM UTC-7, sms wrote:
On 8/29/2017 9:24 AM, Joerg wrote: snip I use super-thick tubes from Kenda and Sunlite. No more flats, pumping required only every 6-8 weeks and it has only dropped from 110psi to 75psi. It's great, I need to work a bit longer on a diagnostic case, miss the Fedex cut-off for truck pick-up, strap the package to the road bike and put the coals on. Zero prep time for the ride. Schwalbe tubes have very low porosity. Add air about every 4 weeks. https://www.schwalbetires.com/bike_tires/tubes/all. The thick tubes also work well but personally I'd rather have better tires to avoid punctures, and use regular tubes. For bicycles where reliability is important, get the Schwalbe tires with the puncture protection. Latex is lighter, but more fragile, more porous, less safe, more difficult to install, and more expensive. Blowouts due to overheated rims are more common with latex if you're doing long steep descents with a lot of heavy braking. Of course if you have disc brakes this is irrelevant. The big hassle with latex is that it's much more porous than butyl so you'll be adding air more often. You basically have to pump up your tires daily. "Loss of pressure should also be considered with regards to latex as it is porous, meaning air leaks out of it. I tested this and found that a 25mm tyre would go from 100 to roughly 85 psi overnight. This means you should be prepared to inflate your tyres before every ride." The bottom line is that unless you're a racer, and really need the lighter weight of latex, avoid latex tubes at all costs. I don't know where that came from but I expected to have to refill the tires every ride like the butyl tubes and that was NOT the case. I have had the bike sitting there for 5 days and no pressure loss at all as measured with my Silca professional pump. For the first week or so there was loss but it simply stopped. |
#30
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Innertube Porosity?
On Wed, 30 Aug 2017 10:36:15 -0700 (PDT), wrote:
On Tuesday, August 29, 2017 at 5:56:52 PM UTC-7, James wrote: On 30/08/17 01:55, wrote: On Tuesday, August 29, 2017 at 1:52:10 AM UTC-7, wrote: Remove the valve, inject a very strong sugar/water solution, replace dust cap, spin the wheel to distribute the solution inside the tube, drain the solution as much as possible, replace valve and inflate. All you have to do is use latex tubes. These have so low a porosity that you only have to pump up your tires slightly one day a week after the initial settling in period. Which latex tubes have low porosity? Ones I've tried meant pumping up tyres every couple of days. Regular butyl tubes stay inflated much longer for me. The cheapest one's available - Victoria. And I have NEVER had any butyl tubes that didn't require pumping up every single day. Which model? The Ultralite road bike inner tube? The Lite road inner tube? Another model? I'm interested as presently I can only ride two days in a row without pumping. -- Cheers, John B. |
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