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11T compatible with 1996 Trek road bike?
Is an 11-23 cassette compatible with my 1996 Trek 2300 road bike if I
update the drivetrain to Ultegra 6600 series (with triple) from the existing Ultegra 600 series (with double)? Craig in NJ |
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#2
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CraigNJ wrote:
Is an 11-23 cassette compatible with my 1996 Trek 2300 road bike if I update the drivetrain to Ultegra 6600 series (with triple) from the existing Ultegra 600 series (with double)? Yes. (But wait for confirmation from someone who actually knows.) BS(er) |
#3
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Bill Sornson wrote: CraigNJ wrote: Is an 11-23 cassette compatible with my 1996 Trek 2300 road bike if I update the drivetrain to Ultegra 6600 series (with triple) from the existing Ultegra 600 series (with double)? Yes. (But wait for confirmation from someone who actually knows.) BS(er) I dunno either, but according to http://www.vintage-trek.com/Trek_timeline.htm , 2300's and above were 8-speed in 1995, so the new cassette *should* bolt right on. Jeff |
#4
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CraigNJ wrote:
Is an 11-23 cassette compatible with my 1996 Trek 2300 road bike if I update the drivetrain to Ultegra 6600 series (with triple) from the existing Ultegra 600 series (with double)? I'm 99% sure that your hub is not designed to accept an 11 tooth sprocket. It's easy enough to check, just pop the cassette off and look at the Freehub body. Compare with the photos at: http://sheldonbrown.com/k7.html#hyperdrivec I really think you'd be better off with the 12-23, that 16 in the middle might be a very pleasant gear. If you ride where the climbs don't require anything smaller than the 23, it is very unlikely that you'll find any descents worthy of the 11. If you really think an 11 would be more useful to you than a 16, it isn't difficult to modify the hub to accept the 11, as explained on that page. Sheldon "Seize Moi" Brown +------------------------------------------+ | To do nothing is also a good remedy. | | --Hippocrates | +------------------------------------------+ Harris Cyclery, West Newton, Massachusetts Phone 617-244-9772 FAX 617-244-1041 http://harriscyclery.com Hard-to-find parts shipped Worldwide http://captainbike.com http://sheldonbrown.com |
#5
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Thanks, Sheldon. Good catch. I'll inspect the bike for that this
weekend. Yes, it is/was an 8 speed. FWIW, when I'm out of shape at the beginning of a season some of the hills here in western NJ are really hard. Given that I'm approaching 50 and don't expect to ever be in great shape again (a pinched nerve limits my riding), it's time to add the granny gear. With the granny, I shouldn't need anything more than a 23 on the back. FWIW (continued), on the other end, there are also some very sweet stretches of long flat or gentle downslopes around here that last for 1 to 4 miles. (And down at the south NJ shore it's all flat.) On these I max out on the 53-12 (I can't spin the peddles as fast as most, but still have power to spare), so an 11 would be very sweet for those stretches. I'd be tempted to make the modification to support the 11 if that's what it takes. (Seems better & more effective than making the 53 a little bigger.) Thanks again. I'll let you know what I see. Craig in NJ On Wed, 25 May 2005 23:31:41 -0400, Sheldon Brown wrote: CraigNJ wrote: Is an 11-23 cassette compatible with my 1996 Trek 2300 road bike if I update the drivetrain to Ultegra 6600 series (with triple) from the existing Ultegra 600 series (with double)? I'm 99% sure that your hub is not designed to accept an 11 tooth sprocket. It's easy enough to check, just pop the cassette off and look at the Freehub body. Compare with the photos at: http://sheldonbrown.com/k7.html#hyperdrivec I really think you'd be better off with the 12-23, that 16 in the middle might be a very pleasant gear. If you ride where the climbs don't require anything smaller than the 23, it is very unlikely that you'll find any descents worthy of the 11. If you really think an 11 would be more useful to you than a 16, it isn't difficult to modify the hub to accept the 11, as explained on that page. Sheldon "Seize Moi" Brown +------------------------------------------+ | To do nothing is also a good remedy. | | --Hippocrates | +------------------------------------------+ Harris Cyclery, West Newton, Massachusetts Phone 617-244-9772 FAX 617-244-1041 http://harriscyclery.com Hard-to-find parts shipped Worldwide http://captainbike.com http://sheldonbrown.com |
#6
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CraigNJ wrote: Is an 11-23 cassette compatible with my 1996 Trek 2300 road bike if I update the drivetrain to Ultegra 6600 series (with triple) from the existing Ultegra 600 series (with double)? Craig in NJ yes, of course. If the cogset with the 11t cannot be tightened, add a 1mm spacer onto the freehub body first, then tighten all the way. |
#7
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11T compatible with 1996 Trek road bike?
The local bike shop helped me get a good look -- it's the non-compact
body. It sounds like I'll need to grind off a little of the splines at the top, but ... But the mechanic there dropped an 11t cog on top in place of the 12 and seemed able to screw it all together, so he's thinking it won't be necessary to modify the body. Could that be true, or maybe we're just fooling ourselves because we didn't try it with a whole new cassette? Craig in NJ On Thu, 26 May 2005 08:35:41 -0400, CraigNJ wrote: Thanks, Sheldon. Good catch. I'll inspect the bike for that this weekend. Yes, it is/was an 8 speed. FWIW, when I'm out of shape at the beginning of a season some of the hills here in western NJ are really hard. Given that I'm approaching 50 and don't expect to ever be in great shape again (a pinched nerve limits my riding), it's time to add the granny gear. With the granny, I shouldn't need anything more than a 23 on the back. FWIW (continued), on the other end, there are also some very sweet stretches of long flat or gentle downslopes around here that last for 1 to 4 miles. (And down at the south NJ shore it's all flat.) On these I max out on the 53-12 (I can't spin the peddles as fast as most, but still have power to spare), so an 11 would be very sweet for those stretches. I'd be tempted to make the modification to support the 11 if that's what it takes. (Seems better & more effective than making the 53 a little bigger.) Thanks again. I'll let you know what I see. Craig in NJ On Wed, 25 May 2005 23:31:41 -0400, Sheldon Brown wrote: CraigNJ wrote: Is an 11-23 cassette compatible with my 1996 Trek 2300 road bike if I update the drivetrain to Ultegra 6600 series (with triple) from the existing Ultegra 600 series (with double)? I'm 99% sure that your hub is not designed to accept an 11 tooth sprocket. It's easy enough to check, just pop the cassette off and look at the Freehub body. Compare with the photos at: http://sheldonbrown.com/k7.html#hyperdrivec I really think you'd be better off with the 12-23, that 16 in the middle might be a very pleasant gear. If you ride where the climbs don't require anything smaller than the 23, it is very unlikely that you'll find any descents worthy of the 11. If you really think an 11 would be more useful to you than a 16, it isn't difficult to modify the hub to accept the 11, as explained on that page. Sheldon "Seize Moi" Brown +------------------------------------------+ | To do nothing is also a good remedy. | | --Hippocrates | +------------------------------------------+ Harris Cyclery, West Newton, Massachusetts Phone 617-244-9772 FAX 617-244-1041 http://harriscyclery.com Hard-to-find parts shipped Worldwide http://captainbike.com http://sheldonbrown.com |
#8
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11T compatible with 1996 Trek road bike?
CraigNJ wrote:
The local bike shop helped me get a good look -- it's the non-compact body. It sounds like I'll need to grind off a little of the splines at the top, but ... But the mechanic there dropped an 11t cog on top in place of the 12 and seemed able to screw it all together, so he's thinking it won't be necessary to modify the body. Could that be true, or maybe we're just fooling ourselves because we didn't try it with a whole new cassette? The 11-tooth cog will slip on, but you might not be able to get the entire cassette clamped on properly. Put all the cogs and spacers on, including the 11-tooth, and then the lock ring. Make sure all the cogs are tight once you're cranked down on the lock ring. If they're not tight, put a thin spacer on the cassette body before installing the cassette- there's a Shimano spacer that's 0.3mm thick that should do the trick. If nothing wiggles with the lock ring in place, you're good to go. Jeff |
#9
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11T compatible with 1996 Trek road bike?
JeffWills Wrote: CraigNJ wrote: The local bike shop helped me get a good look -- it's th non-compact body. It sounds like I'll need to grind off a little of the splines at the top, but ... But the mechanic there dropped an 11t cog on top in place of the 12 and seemed able to screw it all together, so he's thinking it won' be necessary to modify the body. Could that be true, or maybe we'r just fooling ourselves because we didn't try it with a whole ne cassette? The 11-tooth cog will slip on, but you might not be able to get the entire cassette clamped on properly. Put all the cogs and spacers on, including the 11-tooth, and then the lock ring. Make sure all the cogs are tight once you're cranked down on the lock ring. If they're not tight, put a thin spacer on the cassette body before installing the cassette- there's a Shimano spacer that's 0.3mm thick that should do the trick. If nothing wiggles with the lock ring in place, you're good to go. Jeff What about slipping the 11T on with one of the remaining sprocket removed? Sacrificing a cog, but averts the need to modify the carrier -- meb |
#10
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11T compatible with 1996 Trek road bike?
That's sort of what the mechanic did -- he had the entire old 8-speed
cassette on but with the 12t replaced by an 11t, and then the lock ring. He said it looked like he could get the lock ring to tighten. Could he be right that there's no need for additional spacers or grinding down the top lip of the splines to accomodate the 11t securely? Or maybe there's something we can't see that makes it mechanically unsufficient without grinding down the splines a little? I'm thinking that just to be safe, I'll want to do the grinding down anyway. I'm not quite sure how much, though, or at what angle. I'm guessing the best would be straight/flat, not angled, grinding off of the splines down by a distance that is exactly the thickness of the part of the 11t that is not cut through for the splines, e.g., maybe 0.5mm or so. Is that right? That might be just one or two threads, right? That sounds pretty easy to do, and maybe not too dangerous to sacrifice one or two threads. Craig in NJ On 1 Jul 2005 22:50:43 -0700, "JeffWills" wrote: CraigNJ wrote: The local bike shop helped me get a good look -- it's the non-compact body. It sounds like I'll need to grind off a little of the splines at the top, but ... But the mechanic there dropped an 11t cog on top in place of the 12 and seemed able to screw it all together, so he's thinking it won't be necessary to modify the body. Could that be true, or maybe we're just fooling ourselves because we didn't try it with a whole new cassette? The 11-tooth cog will slip on, but you might not be able to get the entire cassette clamped on properly. Put all the cogs and spacers on, including the 11-tooth, and then the lock ring. Make sure all the cogs are tight once you're cranked down on the lock ring. If they're not tight, put a thin spacer on the cassette body before installing the cassette- there's a Shimano spacer that's 0.3mm thick that should do the trick. If nothing wiggles with the lock ring in place, you're good to go. Jeff |
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