Help with downtube barrel adjusters?

I have a Cinelli aluminum frame (Starlight) that doesn't have
traditional posts on the downtube for shift levers. Instead there
are little doo-dads riveted to the downtube that are threaded
to take barrel adjusters. A picture of what I'm talking about
can be seen he

http://www.bikeimperium.de/images/_i...teCarve_g3.jpg

The problem is that both of the doo-dads are somewhat stripped
and it is affecting shifting performance a bit because the spring
loaded adjusters move around. I don't need an adjuster on the
right since the rear derailleur has one, so is there something
I can attach to the doo-dad to act as a cable housing stop? If
not perhaps I'll just JB Weld a housing cap in there.

Speaking of JB Weld, could I just fill the doo-dad with it,
and then drill/tap new threads and put the barrel adjuster
back in? Does anyone think that would work?

It would be nice to keep an adjuster on the left side, I find
it a bit easier to get a shimano sti working properly.

Thanks for any and all suggestions,

-JakeS

w
I have a Cinelli aluminum frame (Starlight) that doesn't have
traditional posts on the downtube for shift levers. Instead there
are little doo-dads riveted to the downtube that are threaded
to take barrel adjusters. A picture of what I'm talking about
can be seen he

http://www.bikeimperium.de/images/_i...teCarve_g3.jpg

The problem is that both of the doo-dads are somewhat stripped
and it is affecting shifting performance a bit because the spring
loaded adjusters move around. I don't need an adjuster on the
right since the rear derailleur has one, so is there something
I can attach to the doo-dad to act as a cable housing stop? If
not perhaps I'll just JB Weld a housing cap in there.

Speaking of JB Weld, could I just fill the doo-dad with it,
and then drill/tap new threads and put the barrel adjuster
back in? Does anyone think that would work?

It would be nice to keep an adjuster on the left side, I find
it a bit easier to get a shimano sti working properly.

Thanks for any and all suggestions,

-JakeS


It looks like a cable end cap will fit. If it is too small, wrap a bit
of tape about it. You don't really need either of them. Just pull the
front derailleur cable tight, secure the screw finger tight, and test
it. If the derailleur doesn't move immediately, tighten it some more.
When it is tight enough, torque the screw to the proper tightness.

Are the doo-dads moving because you have cut the cables too short?

--
Bob Wheeler --- http://www.bobwheeler.com/
ECHIP, Inc. ---
Randomness comes in bunches.

wrote: (clip)could I just fill the doo-dad with it,
and then drill/tap new threads and put the barrel adjuster back in? Does
anyone think that would work?(clip)
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
That would work, but there is an easier way. Loc-tite and Permatex both
make kits for this purpose. You spray the male thread with a release agent,
and fill the stripped thread with a two-part epoxy material. You assemble
the male and female and wait for it to cure. You can now turn the threaded
adjuster in the plastic threads you just made. I've done it--it works.

Drill it out and put in a new aluminum "threaded insert"...provided the
insert tool you buy doesn't need more clearance than the frame yields.
A metric kit should be about $25 and will give you lots of inserts for
those other stripped threads you have elsewhere

"bob" wrote: (clip)...provided the insert tool you buy doesn't need more
clearance than the frame yields.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^
The drill is likely to require more room than the insert tool.

wrote:

I have a Cinelli aluminum frame (Starlight) that doesn't have
traditional posts on the downtube for shift levers. Instead there
are little doo-dads riveted to the downtube that are threaded
to take barrel adjusters. A picture of what I'm talking about
can be seen he

http://www.bikeimperium.de/images/_i...teCarve_g3.jpg

The problem is that both of the doo-dads are somewhat stripped
and it is affecting shifting performance a bit because the spring
loaded adjusters move around. I don't need an adjuster on the
right since the rear derailleur has one, so is there something
I can attach to the doo-dad to act as a cable housing stop? If
not perhaps I'll just JB Weld a housing cap in there.

Speaking of JB Weld, could I just fill the doo-dad with it,
and then drill/tap new threads and put the barrel adjuster
back in? Does anyone think that would work?

It would be nice to keep an adjuster on the left side, I find
it a bit easier to get a shimano sti working properly.

There are sleeved adjusters which would slide into your
stops if you drilled out the rest of your damaged threads.
Second photo upper right:
http://www.yellowjersey.org/hanger.html


--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org
Open every day since 1 April, 1971