Headsets

Hi Folks
New here so please bare with me! I am in need of replacing the headset
on my old mountain bike and a mate has given me a rather spankin pair of
suspension forks to replace the old standard ones, but the current headset
is threaded and the forks require a threadless headset and a stem. I have a
stem coming my way via ebay but I am completely unsure as to how to fit the
headset, ie, all the different bits and what order they go in. What holds a
threadless headset in the frame? Does the stem, onced clamped to the top of
the forks, hold it all in place? Also, do I need a specialist tool to
fit/remove a threadless headset?
Is there any online help pages on things like this that anyone can point me
in the direction of?
Many thanks. All help is most gratefully appreciated.
Gareth

Gareth Watkins wrote:

Hi Folks
New here so please bare with me! I am in need of replacing the headset
on my old mountain bike and a mate has given me a rather spankin pair of
suspension forks to replace the old standard ones, but the current headset
is threaded and the forks require a threadless headset and a stem. I have a
stem coming my way via ebay but I am completely unsure as to how to fit the
headset, ie, all the different bits and what order they go in. What holds a
threadless headset in the frame? Does the stem, onced clamped to the top of
the forks, hold it all in place?

10/10. The bearings are pre-loaded by a gentle tightening of the
star-fangled nut in the centre, then the stem bolts are done up tightly
to lock everything in place. The star-fangled nut then serves no
purpose apart from keeping water out of your steerer tube!

Also, do I need a specialist tool to
fit/remove a threadless headset?

Just allen keys of the correct size are OK for adjusting and servicing
it, but the two head tube cups and the fork crown race should be pressed
in by a good bike shop using the correct (too expensive for home use)
tools. I've fitted headset cups with a mallet and a block of wood, but
not on any nice bikes.

"Gareth Watkins" wrote in message
...
Hi Folks
New here so please bare with me!

Wrong NG. The nudists are on uk.rec.naturist. ;-)
___
Michael MacClancy

Gareth Watkins wrote:
........I have a stem coming my way via ebay
but I am completely unsure as to how to fit the headset, ie, all the
different bits and what order they go in. What holds a threadless
headset in the frame? Does the stem, onced clamped to the top of the
forks, hold it all in place? Also, do I need a specialist tool to
fit/remove a threadless headset?

Headset cups and crown race is best fitted/removed by a bike shop unless
you have the suitable (expensive) specialist tools and/or knowledge.
Fitting and adjusting bearings and stem is quite a doddle though - only
need an allen key or two.

Stem holds it all place. Top bolt and cap (on headset) is only for
pressing the stem down onto the headset during adjustment to precisely set
the preload on the bearings. Stem clamp bolts are then tightened
afterwards.

Is there any online help pages on things like this

This is a good'n:
http://www.parktool.com/repair_help/...readless.shtml

note. Star nuts are not always suitable or desirable so you might
have/want to use an alternative fastener device instead - which may or may
not be supplied with your headset.

and see: http://www.parktool.com/repair_help/...forksize.shtml
- Leave steerer tube a bit longer than you think you'll need it to
allow for error and future changes of position, etc. Can use spacers
ontop of the stem (as well as underneath) and eventually cut steerer again
if you like.
- Get a selection of 2 and 5mm spacers to fine tune stem height.
- Stem can be fitted either way up depending on what angle you want.

~PB

"Gareth Watkins" wrote in message
...
Hi Folks
New here so please bare with me!

No thanks. I only get naked with very special friends.

T

Gareth Watkins wrote:
Hi Folks
New here so please bare with me! I am in need of replacing the
headset on my old mountain bike and a mate has given me a rather
spankin pair of suspension forks to replace the old standard ones,
but the current headset is threaded and the forks require a
threadless headset and a stem.

Beware. Most threaded headsets were in the old 1" size, threaded in 1
1/8th. The two are not interchangeable and the number of suspension forks
available these days with 1" steerers in virtually zero. You may be lucky
but check first before you spend too much money

Tony

--
"If you tell the truth you don't have to remember anything."
Mark Twain

"Pete Biggs" wrote in message
...

Headset cups and crown race is best fitted/removed by a bike shop unless
you have the suitable (expensive) specialist tools and/or knowledge.

Oh Pete I'm surprised you said that. Headset cups can be fitted with a long
bolt or threaded rod, a nut or two and some large washers - just taking it
slowly and carefully to make sure they go in straight, and (according to my
headset installation instructions) make sure you're pressing evenly on the
load bearing surface in the centre rather than on the flanges. Fitting the
crown race I'd agree is better done by the LBS if you don't have/want to buy
either a slide hammer or suitable sized piece of tubing to make one up - C+,
when it did a workshop piece on fitting headsets, suggested that you might
be able to use a piece of seat tube "off an old bike" for 1" steerer tubes.
Unfortunately I didn't have an old bike to hand to cut up for making a slide
hammer when I did it... Besides, I needed one for a 1 1/8" steerer.

Of course, general mechanical skill is always important, especially when
making do without the special tools.

Rich

Richard Goodman wrote:

Headset cups and crown race is best fitted/removed by a bike shop
^^^^
unless you have the suitable (expensive) specialist tools and/or
knowledge.

Oh Pete I'm surprised you said that. Headset cups can be fitted with
a long bolt or threaded rod, a nut or two and some large washers -
just taking it slowly and carefully to make sure they go in straight,
and (according to my headset installation instructions) make sure
you're pressing evenly on the load bearing surface in the centre
rather than on the flanges.

I didn't say that it was *essential* to use bike shop or specialist
tools/knowledge just that it's BEST to, and I stick by that. I think it
does take "specialist knowledge" (or a good level of general DIY skill -
which amounts to the same thing) to use a threaded rod, mallet & block of
wood or any other DIY method without having a fair bit of risk *or*
difficulty. I've myself been there done that... not very well at all, so
therefore I cannot recommend any novice with no previous experience tries
the job with any nice equipment. I know not everyone agrees with me but
there you go, that's my opinion.

Particular trouble is, some cups are a very, very tight fit in the head
tube because actual dimensions (of cups and/or frame) often vary slightly
from what they're supposed to be. This is especially bad news when the
cups are ligtwieght alloy types.

The job is so much better with the proper tools. Cyclus professional
headset press* is only £30 - although there's the remover and crown tools
to buy (or make if you /can/ make good ones) as well. So it's best for
most people to get this particular job done at the LBS, IMO - along with
only a very few other jobs (eg. facing and certain alignment jobs). I am
a big fan of DIY bike maintainance and building but there are still a few
exceptional jobs.

~PB

I wrote:
therefore I cannot recommend any novice with no
previous experience tries the job with any nice equipment.

By nice "equipment", I mean nice bike or headset. Cyclus headcup press
(and I'm sure any other similar pro tool) works so well that anyone
remotely sensible could use it well.
Tip: apply grease inside head tube

With my attempt at a home made press, I found it difficult to find washers
of a suitable size, shape, thickness and strength, and I had difficultly
in keeping the thing aligned properly. Turning a small nut with a spanner
while trying to keep the whole assembly in order is also physically
difficult compared to using the chunky well-fitting parts and huge handles
of the Cyclus press. PB DIY Skills 0 Quality German Engineering 1

~PB

In message , Tony Raven
writes
Beware. Most threaded headsets were in the old 1" size, threaded in 1
1/8th. The two are not interchangeable and the number of suspension forks
available these days with 1" steerers in virtually zero. You may be lucky
but check first before you spend too much money


If you're after a good pair of suspension forks in 1" ahead, Pace still
do them as a special order.

--
Thomas Letherby
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