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freewheel dismantling
m-gineering wrote:
Vee wrote: David L. Johnson wrote: But if you want to get inside the freewheel part, you are asking for trouble. There are 3,287 little tiny bearings in there, There's less than a hundred bearings, Or not even that. I've opened freewheels which held only six balls and peices of bent wire to keep them apart! Later Sachs freewheels have the bals in a cage I would only add: work on the freewheel while it's held in a vise via a freewheel tool because you'll make less of a mess and it's far easier if you can turn the freewheel upside down. This works with the splined type. For notch type freewheels clamp an old hub in a vise (drop a bolt in the housing to keep it from squashing). spin the freewheel on, it tightens when you knock the bearing ring loose and vice versa. Regina's were indeed hopeless to work on, but an Atom body was dimensionally the same and took all the cogs While we're offering actual practical advice here, here's some more pointers to make your reassembly job easier: Open the freewheel over a large rag. If possible, count the bearings on each side before removal, but if not, the rag will catch them. This is much easier than estimating how many will fit during reassembly. SunTour New Winner freewheels require a special tool for opening the body - they had adjustable bearings, a design that was eliminated in the next incarnation, "Winner Pro". For all others, a screw cover with pinholes has a left-hand thread. A drift punch will work, but a pin tool allows more control. Put a very thin film of grease on the bearing surfaces before reassembly. The balls will "stick" in place. If you are worried that the grease was enough to gum up the pawls, you can flush with WD-40 after reassembly, allow to dry, then oil - but a thin film shouldn't be a problem. I agree that this work isn't worth it if your time is more valuable than your money - unless you're just curious, or have a vintage freewheel that has some collector's value. Back when I was a college student with more time than money, I resurrected a few friends' rusted-out freewheels this way. Mark |
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#12
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freewheel dismantling
Here's another suggestion.
If you really want to catch ALL the balls, put a strong magnet inside the rag, and/or set it all inside a shallow tub or tray when you open the thing up. Some will argue about the dangers of magnetizing ball bearings, but any evil that results isn't nearly as bad as having to reassemble the thing with one or two balls missing. |
#13
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freewheel dismantling
Steve W wrote:
I have a 6 speed screw on shimano freewheel set and I would like to dismantle it. Can it be done with two chain whips or do i need a special spanner to undo what appears to be a slim lock ring with 8 semi circular cut outs in the outside of it. Hold the low gear in a freewheel vise and unscrew the lockring, ideally with a pliers-type lockring tool such as a Var #16. Older Shimano MF cogs can be cut to fit the mid and low gear positions on these new freewheel bodies. There's an extra square cutout in addition to the traditional serrated pattern. -- Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org Open every day since 1 April, 1971 |
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