Am I OK to build with this rim?

My road bike needs a new wheel ASAP. As my access to parts and funds is
somewhat limited at the moment, I would like to build with what I have on
hand. To that end, I have a used Mavic rim with some apparent wear and
tear, and I would really like opinions on wether the rim is useable.

My concerns a (see photos at http://www.pbase.com/jacobe/inbox )

1) The steel eyelets are rusted. I don't know if this is a problem, or
something that a little appropriate lubing would fix. I would be using
new, steel, DT nipples for the wheel.

2) The sidewalls have scratches, presumably from a crash. The deepest
scratch is from 0.25mm to 0.5mm deep, in my estimation. Deep enough to
feel when you run your fingers over it. Can these scratch marks be sanded
or filed flat where they protrude to present a good braking surface?

3) The sidewall has a flat spot at one point. I would think this could
easily be bent back into place with a little care.

The rim is otherwise in good condition, round and true.

Keep in mind I'm willing to put a little work into this rim, I need it to
get my bike rolling, and I really don't care about cosmetic results. This
is going to be a 36 spoke semi-tangent rear cassette wheel.

Thanks,

Adam

On Tue, 19 Oct 2004 03:35:19 -0400, Jacobe Hazzard wrote:

My concerns a (see photos at http://www.pbase.com/jacobe/inbox )

That rim is pretty chewed up.

1) The steel eyelets are rusted. I don't know if this is a problem, or
something that a little appropriate lubing would fix.

Not a big problem. The eyelets are more cosmetic than structural,
anyway, since they are only on the inner wall. MA2s and the like have
stronger, full eyelets.

I would be using
new, steel, DT nipples for the wheel.

Likely not. The nipples are brass with a chrome or nickel plating.


2) The sidewalls have scratches, presumably from a crash. The deepest
scratch is from 0.25mm to 0.5mm deep, in my estimation. Deep enough to
feel when you run your fingers over it. Can these scratch marks be
sanded or filed flat where they protrude to present a good braking
surface?

Maybe. But it looks like the sidewall is deformed from the picture. I
can't imagine that you won't feel those every time you hit the brake.

3) The sidewall has a flat spot at one point. I would think this could
easily be bent back into place with a little care.

Easily? It might be possible, but it will not be easy or quick. I have
tried to take dings like that out, and have not been really satisfied
with the results.


The rim is otherwise in good condition, round and true.

Keep in mind I'm willing to put a little work into this rim, I need it
to get my bike rolling, and I really don't care about cosmetic results.
This is going to be a 36 spoke semi-tangent rear cassette wheel.

I wouldn't hesitate to put it on a fixed gear rear wheel, but with a
brake? Are you sure that it's otherwise round and true? Personally, I'd
look around for a friend or shop that has a rim they'd sell cheap.

--

David L. Johnson

__o | Accept risk. Accept responsibility. Put a lawyer out of
_`\(,_ | business.
(_)/ (_) |

On Tue, 19 Oct 2004 03:35:19 -0400, Jacobe Hazzard wrote:

My concerns a (see photos at http://www.pbase.com/jacobe/inbox )

That rim is pretty chewed up.

1) The steel eyelets are rusted. I don't know if this is a problem, or
something that a little appropriate lubing would fix.

Not a big problem. The eyelets are more cosmetic than structural,
anyway, since they are only on the inner wall. MA2s and the like have
stronger, full eyelets.

I would be using
new, steel, DT nipples for the wheel.

Likely not. The nipples are brass with a chrome or nickel plating.


2) The sidewalls have scratches, presumably from a crash. The deepest
scratch is from 0.25mm to 0.5mm deep, in my estimation. Deep enough to
feel when you run your fingers over it. Can these scratch marks be
sanded or filed flat where they protrude to present a good braking
surface?

Maybe. But it looks like the sidewall is deformed from the picture. I
can't imagine that you won't feel those every time you hit the brake.

3) The sidewall has a flat spot at one point. I would think this could
easily be bent back into place with a little care.

Easily? It might be possible, but it will not be easy or quick. I have
tried to take dings like that out, and have not been really satisfied
with the results.


The rim is otherwise in good condition, round and true.

Keep in mind I'm willing to put a little work into this rim, I need it
to get my bike rolling, and I really don't care about cosmetic results.
This is going to be a 36 spoke semi-tangent rear cassette wheel.

I wouldn't hesitate to put it on a fixed gear rear wheel, but with a
brake? Are you sure that it's otherwise round and true? Personally, I'd
look around for a friend or shop that has a rim they'd sell cheap.

--

David L. Johnson

__o | Accept risk. Accept responsibility. Put a lawyer out of
_`\(,_ | business.
(_)/ (_) |

In article , David L.
Johnson wrote:


I wouldn't hesitate to put it on a fixed gear rear wheel, but with a
brake? Are you sure that it's otherwise round and true? Personally, I'd
look around for a friend or shop that has a rim they'd sell cheap.

Sage advice

luke

In article , David L.
Johnson wrote:


I wouldn't hesitate to put it on a fixed gear rear wheel, but with a
brake? Are you sure that it's otherwise round and true? Personally, I'd
look around for a friend or shop that has a rim they'd sell cheap.

Sage advice

luke

Luke wrote:
In article , David L.
Johnson wrote:


I wouldn't hesitate to put it on a fixed gear rear wheel, but with a
brake? Are you sure that it's otherwise round and true?
Personally, I'd look around for a friend or shop that has a rim
they'd sell cheap.

Sage advice

luke

There are no bicycle rims in the budget at the moment, and although there
are always deals to be found it might be difficult to find an equivalently
sized road rim with 36 holes and the right ERD for my spokes. I would have
my bike rolling again with weird braking in the rear rather than sitting
in the garage rusting. And again, because it's the rear wheel I don't
think brake modulation is that important. When do I even use the rear
brake?

Also, I think in my eagerness to accurately portray the damage to the rim,
I may have made it seem exaggerated in the photos. The sidewall is
definitely not deformed, and the rim is indeed true.

I think I'm gonna go ahead and built an 'interim wheel'. I'll report back
with how it goes I guess. It wouldn't be the first time I've built a wheel
in a way you're not supposed to.

Adam

Luke wrote:
In article , David L.
Johnson wrote:


I wouldn't hesitate to put it on a fixed gear rear wheel, but with a
brake? Are you sure that it's otherwise round and true?
Personally, I'd look around for a friend or shop that has a rim
they'd sell cheap.

Sage advice

luke

There are no bicycle rims in the budget at the moment, and although there
are always deals to be found it might be difficult to find an equivalently
sized road rim with 36 holes and the right ERD for my spokes. I would have
my bike rolling again with weird braking in the rear rather than sitting
in the garage rusting. And again, because it's the rear wheel I don't
think brake modulation is that important. When do I even use the rear
brake?

Also, I think in my eagerness to accurately portray the damage to the rim,
I may have made it seem exaggerated in the photos. The sidewall is
definitely not deformed, and the rim is indeed true.

I think I'm gonna go ahead and built an 'interim wheel'. I'll report back
with how it goes I guess. It wouldn't be the first time I've built a wheel
in a way you're not supposed to.

Adam

"Jacobe Hazzard" wrote in message ...
Luke wrote:
In article , David L.
Johnson wrote:


I wouldn't hesitate to put it on a fixed gear rear wheel, but with a
brake? Are you sure that it's otherwise round and true?
Personally, I'd look around for a friend or shop that has a rim
they'd sell cheap.

Sage advice

luke

There are no bicycle rims in the budget at the moment, and although there
are always deals to be found it might be difficult to find an equivalently
sized road rim with 36 holes and the right ERD for my spokes. I would have
my bike rolling again with weird braking in the rear rather than sitting
in the garage rusting. And again, because it's the rear wheel I don't
think brake modulation is that important. When do I even use the rear
brake?

Also, I think in my eagerness to accurately portray the damage to the rim,
I may have made it seem exaggerated in the photos. The sidewall is
definitely not deformed, and the rim is indeed true.

I think I'm gonna go ahead and built an 'interim wheel'. I'll report back
with how it goes I guess. It wouldn't be the first time I've built a wheel
in a way you're not supposed to.

Adam

Straightening out the bend might be a safety risk, especially if you
bend it multiple times. I say "might" because although I've read in a
couple places that straightening out a rim like this can be sketchy, I
don't know how true it really is and what the caveats are. I imagine
that if this is a hard anodized rim (I personally can't tell from the
pictures), then the danger would be significantly increased. I've
straightened a couple rims like that with a regular large adjustable
wrench - seems to be a good regular tool for it. The scratches you'll
be able to get pretty smooth, but between the dent and the scratches I
would pretty much assume you'll never be able to get this rim in a
state where braking on it won't have jittery points.