Attaching rear wheel

Since I got my road bike about a month ago, I've had two flats. On both
occasions, I was able to get the flat fixed readily. However, getting the
rear wheel back on the bike as proven to be problematic for me. On the
first occasion I ended up taking the bike back to my LBS...I took it there
with the wheel on there as best I could get it and the owner, who pointed
out she's been doing this for over 20 years, just bends down, loosens the
quick-release level, and quickly gets the wheel back on correctly -- while I
watched. Now, on the second occasion and I still can't do it. Damn!

I'm thinking of paying a LBS employee to spend an hour training me on
attaching this wheel. Not being able to get the wheel back on is killing my
ability to ride and enjoy the bike. The LBS does have a bicycle maintenance
course on the last friday of every month, but I don't want to wait that
long.

Any ideas? Has anyone else had this problem or is it just me?

BTW, I did post a question about this on the rec.bicycles.tech ng and got
lots of good suggestions, but I haven't been able to implement any of them.
I'm usually not so clueless!

Roger Zoul writes:

Since I got my road bike about a month ago, I've had two flats. On
both occasions, I was able to get the flat fixed readily. However,
getting the rear wheel back on the bike as proven to be problematic
for me. On the first occasion I ended up taking the bike back to my
LBS...I took it there with the wheel on there as best I could get it
and the owner, who pointed out she's been doing this for over 20
years, just bends down, loosens the quick-release lever, and quickly
gets the wheel back on correctly -- while I watched. Now, on the
second occasion and I still can't do it. Damn!

What happens when you try this, with the front wheel for instance?
Your bicycle may have retention ridges that prevent the wheel from
dropping out in the event of an open quick release (QR). This means
that although you can manually remove the wheel, the QR must be
unscrewed before the wheel becomes free. There is an elastic stop nut
on the opposite end of the QR skewer from the hand lever. Hole this
while rotating the handle to unscrew it. When putting the wheel back
in, this process must be reversed. However, it is a trial and error
iterative process to find how far to tighten it so that the lever
closes securely. As you advance the skewer retaining nut, repeatedly
try closing the lever until it closes with a moderate push and give
an over-center feel.

I'm thinking of paying a LBS employee to spend an hour training me
on attaching this wheel. Not being able to get the wheel back on is
killing my ability to ride and enjoy the bike. The LBS does have a
bicycle maintenance course on the last Friday of every month, but I
don't want to wait that long.

I suspect you are afraid to ask because you should have asked that
before you left the shop with the new bicycle. Besides, engaging the
chain of the rear wheel is another problem that is a sort of balancing
act. It works best when standing next to the upright bicycle, holding
the rear of the frame in the left hand while the wheel is engaged with
the right hand. You do not have to touch the chain when done
correctly. This is also something the bicycle shop can demonstrate.

Any ideas? Has anyone else had this problem or is it just me?

Go to the bicycle shop and ASK!

BTW, I did post a question about this on the rec.bicycles.tech ng
and got lots of good suggestions, but I haven't been able to
implement any of them.

Why?

I'm usually not so clueless!

You are trying hard to convince me otherwise.

Jobst Brandt

wrote:
:: Roger Zoul writes:
::
::: Since I got my road bike about a month ago, I've had two flats. On
::: both occasions, I was able to get the flat fixed readily. However,
::: getting the rear wheel back on the bike as proven to be problematic
::: for me. On the first occasion I ended up taking the bike back to my
::: LBS...I took it there with the wheel on there as best I could get it
::: and the owner, who pointed out she's been doing this for over 20
::: years, just bends down, loosens the quick-release lever, and quickly
::: gets the wheel back on correctly -- while I watched. Now, on the
::: second occasion and I still can't do it. Damn!
::
:: What happens when you try this, with the front wheel for instance?
:: Your bicycle may have retention ridges that prevent the wheel from
:: dropping out in the event of an open quick release (QR). This means
:: that although you can manually remove the wheel, the QR must be
:: unscrewed before the wheel becomes free. There is an elastic stop
:: nut on the opposite end of the QR skewer from the hand lever. Hole
:: this while rotating the handle to unscrew it. When putting the
:: wheel back in, this process must be reversed. However, it is a
:: trial and error iterative process to find how far to tighten it so
:: that the lever closes securely. As you advance the skewer retaining
:: nut, repeatedly try closing the lever until it closes with a
:: moderate push and give an over-center feel.

Actually, I can work the QR fine. The problem is getting the wheel axle to
go completely and fully into the frame dropouts. I can and have theh wheel
on the bike right now, but just not fully inside the dropouts.

So the question could be asked: does it need to be fully in. It was when I
got it, and after the LBS owner did so.


::
::: I'm thinking of paying a LBS employee to spend an hour training me
::: on attaching this wheel. Not being able to get the wheel back on is
::: killing my ability to ride and enjoy the bike. The LBS does have a
::: bicycle maintenance course on the last Friday of every month, but I
::: don't want to wait that long.
::
:: I suspect you are afraid to ask because you should have asked that
:: before you left the shop with the new bicycle.

You mean ask how to attach the wheel? I did ask and was shown (not on the
rear wheel, however). However, that didn't help. I think the front wheel
should be easy....I may go practice that one to see.

Besides, engaging the
:: chain of the rear wheel is another problem that is a sort of
:: balancing act. It works best when standing next to the upright
:: bicycle, holding the rear of the frame in the left hand while the
:: wheel is engaged with the right hand. You do not have to touch the
:: chain when done correctly. This is also something the bicycle shop
:: can demonstrate.

Yes, I need to see this done. I'm using a latex glove to keep chain grease
off my hands.
::
::: Any ideas? Has anyone else had this problem or is it just me?
::
:: Go to the bicycle shop and ASK!

Getting ready to do so.

In article ,
says...
wrote:
:: Roger Zoul writes:
::
::: Since I got my road bike about a month ago, I've had two flats. On
::: both occasions, I was able to get the flat fixed readily. However,
::: getting the rear wheel back on the bike as proven to be problematic
::: for me. On the first occasion I ended up taking the bike back to my
::: LBS...I took it there with the wheel on there as best I could get it
::: and the owner, who pointed out she's been doing this for over 20
::: years, just bends down, loosens the quick-release lever, and quickly
::: gets the wheel back on correctly -- while I watched. Now, on the
::: second occasion and I still can't do it. Damn!
::
:: What happens when you try this, with the front wheel for instance?
:: Your bicycle may have retention ridges that prevent the wheel from
:: dropping out in the event of an open quick release (QR). This means
:: that although you can manually remove the wheel, the QR must be
:: unscrewed before the wheel becomes free. There is an elastic stop
:: nut on the opposite end of the QR skewer from the hand lever. Hole
:: this while rotating the handle to unscrew it. When putting the
:: wheel back in, this process must be reversed. However, it is a
:: trial and error iterative process to find how far to tighten it so
:: that the lever closes securely. As you advance the skewer retaining
:: nut, repeatedly try closing the lever until it closes with a
:: moderate push and give an over-center feel.

Actually, I can work the QR fine. The problem is getting the wheel axle to
go completely and fully into the frame dropouts. I can and have theh wheel
on the bike right now, but just not fully inside the dropouts.

So the question could be asked: does it need to be fully in. It was when I
got it, and after the LBS owner did so.

Not absolutely necessary as long as it's tight enough not to slip when
you stand on the pedals, but it's easier to get it centered properly
by fully bottoming it in the dropouts than it is by wiggling it while
you tighten the QR. It does take a bit of a push to get it to bottom
out in the dropouts because you're working against the spring tension
in the derailleur. Mske sure you have the rear derailleur shifted to
the highest (smallest) gear before you remove or try to reinstall the
wheel.


....

Besides, engaging the
:: chain of the rear wheel is another problem that is a sort of
:: balancing act. It works best when standing next to the upright
:: bicycle, holding the rear of the frame in the left hand while the
:: wheel is engaged with the right hand. You do not have to touch the
:: chain when done correctly. This is also something the bicycle shop
:: can demonstrate.

Yes, I need to see this done. I'm using a latex glove to keep chain grease
off my hands.

I've hardly ever managed to get the wheel off and back on without
using at least one finger on the chain, but I don't remove it that
often, so I don't get a whole lot of practice.

--
Dave Kerber
Fight spam: remove the ns_ from the return address before replying!

REAL programmers write self-modifying code.

"Roger Zoul" a écrit dans le message de
...
wrote:
:: Roger Zoul writes:
::
::: Since I got my road bike about a month ago, I've had two flats. On
::: both occasions, I was able to get the flat fixed readily. However,
::: getting the rear wheel back on the bike as proven to be problematic
::: for me. On the first occasion I ended up taking the bike back to my
::: LBS...I....
::

Actually, I can work the QR fine. The problem is getting the wheel axle
to
go completely and fully into the frame dropouts. I can and have theh
wheel
on the bike right now, but just not fully inside the dropouts.



It looks to me like the spacing of the bike is slightly narrower than the
one required by your wheelset. For instance, a 134-mm spacing with a 135-mm
spacing for an LX or XT hub, or a 132,5-mm spacing to allow the use of both
road (130-mm) and MTB (135-mm) wheels. If that's the case, you just insert
the wheel as you have done, then you need to pry the stays (by hand) open to
allow more space for the wheel.

Another potential problems: if you didn't release the brakes, the wheel may
get off -- especially with a flat -- but you will have a hard time squeezing
it in. Make sure the brake is released, especially if you inflated the tire
before replacing it.
Also, make sure that the derailleur is set in high gear (i.e. as much
outside as possible).

David Kerber wrote:
:: In article ,
:: says...
::: wrote:
::::: Roger Zoul writes:
:::::
:::::: Since I got my road bike about a month ago, I've had two flats.
:::::: On both occasions, I was able to get the flat fixed readily.
:::::: However, getting the rear wheel back on the bike as proven to be
:::::: problematic for me. On the first occasion I ended up taking the
:::::: bike back to my LBS...I took it there with the wheel on there as
:::::: best I could get it and the owner, who pointed out she's been
:::::: doing this for over 20 years, just bends down, loosens the
:::::: quick-release lever, and quickly gets the wheel back on
:::::: correctly -- while I watched. Now, on the second occasion and I
:::::: still can't do it. Damn!
:::::
::::: What happens when you try this, with the front wheel for instance?
::::: Your bicycle may have retention ridges that prevent the wheel from
::::: dropping out in the event of an open quick release (QR). This
::::: means that although you can manually remove the wheel, the QR
::::: must be unscrewed before the wheel becomes free. There is an
::::: elastic stop
::::: nut on the opposite end of the QR skewer from the hand lever.
::::: Hole this while rotating the handle to unscrew it. When putting
::::: the
::::: wheel back in, this process must be reversed. However, it is a
::::: trial and error iterative process to find how far to tighten it so
::::: that the lever closes securely. As you advance the skewer
::::: retaining nut, repeatedly try closing the lever until it closes
::::: with a
::::: moderate push and give an over-center feel.
:::
::: Actually, I can work the QR fine. The problem is getting the wheel
::: axle to go completely and fully into the frame dropouts. I can and
::: have theh wheel on the bike right now, but just not fully inside
::: the dropouts.
:::
::: So the question could be asked: does it need to be fully in. It
::: was when I got it, and after the LBS owner did so.
::
:: Not absolutely necessary as long as it's tight enough not to slip
:: when
:: you stand on the pedals, but it's easier to get it centered properly
:: by fully bottoming it in the dropouts than it is by wiggling it while
:: you tighten the QR. It does take a bit of a push to get it to bottom
:: out in the dropouts because you're working against the spring tension
:: in the derailleur. Mske sure you have the rear derailleur shifted to
:: the highest (smallest) gear before you remove or try to reinstall the
:: wheel.
::

Well, I think I have it on now.....I went to the LBS and they showed me a
hub-type deal with just the QR lever and the frame dropouts...and I could
clearly see the retention ridges -- and how they protrude outward to each
side from the bike. So, to properly engage the QR, you must get the entire
thing past those ridges.

However, my bike has no ridges....however, once I loosened the retaining nut
enough (way more than it seemed to need), the axle fell into place. Then,
as Jobst explained, I was able to tighten it back up. That solved the
problem with the centering of the wheel, too.

Hopefully, I won't get hurt due to this wheel coming off the bike. That
happened to me at age 12 while going downhill when a car behind me, but on
the front wheel. I went over the handle bars and landed on my back.


:: I've hardly ever managed to get the wheel off and back on without
:: using at least one finger on the chain, but I don't remove it that
:: often, so I don't get a whole lot of practice.
::
:: --
:: Dave Kerber
:: Fight spam: remove the ns_ from the return address before replying!
::
:: REAL programmers write self-modifying code.

M Gagnon wrote:
:: "Roger Zoul" a écrit dans le message de
:: ...
::: wrote:
::::: Roger Zoul writes:
:::::
:::::: Since I got my road bike about a month ago, I've had two flats.
:::::: On both occasions, I was able to get the flat fixed readily.
:::::: However, getting the rear wheel back on the bike as proven to be
:::::: problematic for me. On the first occasion I ended up taking the
:::::: bike back to my LBS...I....
:::::
:::
::: Actually, I can work the QR fine. The problem is getting the wheel
::: axle to go completely and fully into the frame dropouts. I can and
::: have theh wheel on the bike right now, but just not fully inside
::: the dropouts.
:::
::
::
:: It looks to me like the spacing of the bike is slightly narrower
:: than the one required by your wheelset. For instance, a 134-mm
:: spacing with a 135-mm spacing for an LX or XT hub, or a 132,5-mm
:: spacing to allow the use of both road (130-mm) and MTB (135-mm)
:: wheels. If that's the case, you just insert the wheel as you have
:: done, then you need to pry the stays (by hand) open to allow more
:: space for the wheel.
::

After really loosening the nut I find that hte spacing of the bike is a good
bit wider than the wheelset. Once I got it open enough, the axle when right
into the frame dropouts.

:: Another potential problems: if you didn't release the brakes, the
:: wheel may get off -- especially with a flat -- but you will have a
:: hard time squeezing it in. Make sure the brake is released,
:: especially if you inflated the tire before replacing it.

Yeah...with the tire inflated, I can't get the wheel through the brakes!

:: Also, make sure that the derailleur is set in high gear (i.e. as much
:: outside as possible).

Right. Thanks.

wrote:
:: Roger Zoul writes:
::
::: Since I got my road bike about a month ago, I've had two flats. On
::: both occasions, I was able to get the flat fixed readily. However,
::: getting the rear wheel back on the bike as proven to be problematic
::: for me. On the first occasion I ended up taking the bike back to my
::: LBS...I took it there with the wheel on there as best I could get it
::: and the owner, who pointed out she's been doing this for over 20
::: years, just bends down, loosens the quick-release lever, and quickly
::: gets the wheel back on correctly -- while I watched. Now, on the
::: second occasion and I still can't do it. Damn!
::
:: What happens when you try this, with the front wheel for instance?
:: Your bicycle may have retention ridges that prevent the wheel from
:: dropping out in the event of an open quick release (QR). This means
:: that although you can manually remove the wheel, the QR must be
:: unscrewed before the wheel becomes free.

I now understand what you are saying....I went to the LBS and saw exactly
what you describe. However, my bike does not have retention ridges.

There is an elastic stop
:: nut on the opposite end of the QR skewer from the hand lever. Hole
:: this while rotating the handle to unscrew it. When putting the
:: wheel back in, this process must be reversed. However, it is a
:: trial and error iterative process to find how far to tighten it so
:: that the lever closes securely. As you advance the skewer retaining
:: nut, repeatedly try closing the lever until it closes with a
:: moderate push and give an over-center feel.

It was just a matter of loosening that nut enough...once I did that, the
frame dropouts just fell into place. Problem solved.


::
::: I'm thinking of paying a LBS employee to spend an hour training me
::: on attaching this wheel. Not being able to get the wheel back on is
::: killing my ability to ride and enjoy the bike. The LBS does have a
::: bicycle maintenance course on the last Friday of every month, but I
::: don't want to wait that long.
::
:: I suspect you are afraid to ask because you should have asked that
:: before you left the shop with the new bicycle. Besides, engaging the
:: chain of the rear wheel is another problem that is a sort of
:: balancing act. It works best when standing next to the upright
:: bicycle, holding the rear of the frame in the left hand while the
:: wheel is engaged with the right hand. You do not have to touch the
:: chain when done correctly. This is also something the bicycle shop
:: can demonstrate.
::

In the LBS, I was able to put a rear wheel on the bike without touching the
chain, just by following your technique while looking down from above the
bike.! Somehow, having someone around to bail me out helped

Your technique works better than what is described in the book "The Complete
Idiots Guide to Cycling."

Thanks for your help.

In article ,
says...
David Kerber wrote:
:: In article ,
:: says...
::: wrote:
::::: Roger Zoul writes:
:::::
:::::: Since I got my road bike about a month ago, I've had two flats.
:::::: On both occasions, I was able to get the flat fixed readily.
:::::: However, getting the rear wheel back on the bike as proven to be
:::::: problematic for me. On the first occasion I ended up taking the
:::::: bike back to my LBS...I took it there with the wheel on there as
:::::: best I could get it and the owner, who pointed out she's been
:::::: doing this for over 20 years, just bends down, loosens the
:::::: quick-release lever, and quickly gets the wheel back on
:::::: correctly -- while I watched. Now, on the second occasion and I
:::::: still can't do it. Damn!
:::::
::::: What happens when you try this, with the front wheel for instance?
::::: Your bicycle may have retention ridges that prevent the wheel from
::::: dropping out in the event of an open quick release (QR). This
::::: means that although you can manually remove the wheel, the QR
::::: must be unscrewed before the wheel becomes free. There is an
::::: elastic stop
::::: nut on the opposite end of the QR skewer from the hand lever.
::::: Hole this while rotating the handle to unscrew it. When putting
::::: the
::::: wheel back in, this process must be reversed. However, it is a
::::: trial and error iterative process to find how far to tighten it so
::::: that the lever closes securely. As you advance the skewer
::::: retaining nut, repeatedly try closing the lever until it closes
::::: with a
::::: moderate push and give an over-center feel.
:::
::: Actually, I can work the QR fine. The problem is getting the wheel
::: axle to go completely and fully into the frame dropouts. I can and
::: have theh wheel on the bike right now, but just not fully inside
::: the dropouts.
:::
::: So the question could be asked: does it need to be fully in. It
::: was when I got it, and after the LBS owner did so.
::
:: Not absolutely necessary as long as it's tight enough not to slip
:: when
:: you stand on the pedals, but it's easier to get it centered properly
:: by fully bottoming it in the dropouts than it is by wiggling it while
:: you tighten the QR. It does take a bit of a push to get it to bottom
:: out in the dropouts because you're working against the spring tension
:: in the derailleur. Mske sure you have the rear derailleur shifted to
:: the highest (smallest) gear before you remove or try to reinstall the
:: wheel.
::

Well, I think I have it on now.....I went to the LBS and they showed me a
hub-type deal with just the QR lever and the frame dropouts...and I could
clearly see the retention ridges -- and how they protrude outward to each
side from the bike. So, to properly engage the QR, you must get the entire
thing past those ridges.

However, my bike has no ridges....however, once I loosened the retaining nut
enough (way more than it seemed to need), the axle fell into place. Then,
as Jobst explained, I was able to tighten it back up. That solved the
problem with the centering of the wheel, too.

Hopefully, I won't get hurt due to this wheel coming off the bike. That
happened to me at age 12 while going downhill when a car behind me, but on
the front wheel. I went over the handle bars and landed on my back.

That doesn't sound fun at all!!!!

If the QR's are tight, this won't be a problem. I've read somewhere
that they should be tight enough that you have to grab one of the
frame tubes (fork blade on the front, or chainstay or seat stay on the
rear) with your fingers to pull it all the way in. Unless, of course,
you are a weightlifter or the governor of California GGG, in which
case you might break it if you tried that. That's what I do and I've
never had one come loose in 20+ years of riding.

--
Dave Kerber
Fight spam: remove the ns_ from the return address before replying!

REAL programmers write self-modifying code.

On Mon, 20 Oct 2003 11:18:30 +0000, Roger Zoul wrote:

The LBS does have a bicycle
maintenance course on the last friday of every month, but I don't want to
wait that long.

Go to the class. If you could "get" it from a newsgroup, you could get it
from a book. I presume you have looked at a book about cycling. Maybe
Forester's "Effective Cycling", or any book on bike maintenance.

But it often helps to see and do it live.


Any ideas? Has anyone else had this problem or is it just me?

Some rear wheels have tight clearances, making it more difficult for them
to slip into place. There are lots of other reasons why rear wheels can
be hard to get on. Describe what happens. We can't see from here.

--

David L. Johnson

__o | And what if you track down these men and kill them, what if you
_`\(,_ | killed all of us? From every corner of Europe, hundreds,
(_)/ (_) | thousands would rise up to take our places. Even Nazis can't
kill that fast. -- Paul Henreid (Casablanca).