|
|
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#1
|
|||
|
|||
Good Canti's, or go linear?
The shifters on my old MTB blew out last week. Replaced them, the bars
and all cables. That all seems fine Pulled off my cantilever brakes, f&r, greased studs, then looked th parts over. Pads have dry rot, hardware is rusted. Small parts add u quickly. I'd like to replace My ?'s : Seems like there are some pretty good canti's on the marke right now, reasonably priced (e.g., Avids). There's also the option o using a pulley gizmo (Sheldon Brown's article: http://tinyurl.com/37fcx and installing a direct-pull brake Are canti's dated technology, or a brake that's applicable only t tourers and obsolete MTB's? I never had a problem setting them up, o getting an appropriate degree of mechanical advantage. Are direct-pull just a better design, and worth any compromise that the 'Travel Agent gizmo might imply? Should the brake boss care which I put on TI Nei - |
Ads |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
Good Canti's, or go linear?
On Sat, 24 Apr 2004 23:42:09 GMT, neil0502
wrote: The shifters on my old MTB blew out last week. Replaced them, the bars, and all cables. That all seems fine. Pulled off my cantilever brakes, f&r, greased studs, then looked the parts over. Pads have dry rot, hardware is rusted. Small parts add up quickly. I'd like to replace. My ?'s : Seems like there are some pretty good canti's on the market right now, reasonably priced (e.g., Avids). There's also the option of using a pulley gizmo (Sheldon Brown's article: http://tinyurl.com/37fcx) and installing a direct-pull brake. Are canti's dated technology, or a brake that's applicable only to tourers and obsolete MTB's? I never had a problem setting them up, or getting an appropriate degree of mechanical advantage. Are direct-pulls just a better design, and worth any compromise that the 'Travel Agent' gizmo might imply? Should the brake boss care which I put on? TIA Neil One of the Avid cantis has a reputation for squealing. I don't know if this is because of the design or because lots of talkative people don't know how to set them up.... I have no problems with cantilever brakes. I have linear/v-brake/direct pull on one bike and cantis on another (and dual pivots on the road bike). Each is different, but both work well. Unless you are having problems braking, feeling unsafe, I wouldn't encourage you to go to direct pull. I never feel unsafe with cantis, but I do occasionally go overboard with the direct pull and come close to locking up a wheel when it isn't a good thing to do. The direct pull take a more delicate touch. A short range between just starting to brake and full pressure. For the cost of the travel agents, you can get brake levers for direct pull brakes, can't you? Why clutter the bike up? I think that the travel agents are worth looking at if you have integrated brake/shifters, but if they are separate, just get new levers. |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
Good Canti's, or go linear?
On Sat, 24 Apr 2004 23:42:09 GMT, neil0502
wrote: The shifters on my old MTB blew out last week. Replaced them, the bars, and all cables. That all seems fine. Pulled off my cantilever brakes, f&r, greased studs, then looked the parts over. Pads have dry rot, hardware is rusted. Small parts add up quickly. I'd like to replace. My ?'s : Seems like there are some pretty good canti's on the market right now, reasonably priced (e.g., Avids). There's also the option of using a pulley gizmo (Sheldon Brown's article: http://tinyurl.com/37fcx) and installing a direct-pull brake. Are canti's dated technology, or a brake that's applicable only to tourers and obsolete MTB's? I never had a problem setting them up, or getting an appropriate degree of mechanical advantage. Are direct-pulls just a better design, and worth any compromise that the 'Travel Agent' gizmo might imply? Should the brake boss care which I put on? TIA Neil One of the Avid cantis has a reputation for squealing. I don't know if this is because of the design or because lots of talkative people don't know how to set them up.... I have no problems with cantilever brakes. I have linear/v-brake/direct pull on one bike and cantis on another (and dual pivots on the road bike). Each is different, but both work well. Unless you are having problems braking, feeling unsafe, I wouldn't encourage you to go to direct pull. I never feel unsafe with cantis, but I do occasionally go overboard with the direct pull and come close to locking up a wheel when it isn't a good thing to do. The direct pull take a more delicate touch. A short range between just starting to brake and full pressure. For the cost of the travel agents, you can get brake levers for direct pull brakes, can't you? Why clutter the bike up? I think that the travel agents are worth looking at if you have integrated brake/shifters, but if they are separate, just get new levers. |
#4
|
|||
|
|||
Good Canti's, or go linear?
neil0502 wrote:
Are canti's dated technology, or a brake that's applicable only to tourers and obsolete MTB's? I never had a problem setting them up, or getting an appropriate degree of mechanical advantage. Are direct-pulls just a better design, and worth any compromise that the 'Travel Agent' gizmo might imply? Should the brake boss care which I put on? Cantis work fine (as long as they're set up right), and I personally prefer the "feel" to linear brakes. In fact, I still run cantis on the back of all my personal MTBs (though I had to switch to linear brakes on the front because forks no longer come with cable hangers). Linear brakes can have a slight advantage in mechanical advantage, and are usually (not always) easier to set up. Cantis tend to squeal less, have better modulation, and the pads are thicker (last longer). They also allow for greater pad to rim clearance, which can come in handy if you tweak a wheel in the middle of a ride/race. Mark Hickey Habanero Cycles http://www.habcycles.com Home of the $695 ti frame |
#5
|
|||
|
|||
Good Canti's, or go linear?
neil0502 wrote:
Are canti's dated technology, or a brake that's applicable only to tourers and obsolete MTB's? I never had a problem setting them up, or getting an appropriate degree of mechanical advantage. Are direct-pulls just a better design, and worth any compromise that the 'Travel Agent' gizmo might imply? Should the brake boss care which I put on? Cantis work fine (as long as they're set up right), and I personally prefer the "feel" to linear brakes. In fact, I still run cantis on the back of all my personal MTBs (though I had to switch to linear brakes on the front because forks no longer come with cable hangers). Linear brakes can have a slight advantage in mechanical advantage, and are usually (not always) easier to set up. Cantis tend to squeal less, have better modulation, and the pads are thicker (last longer). They also allow for greater pad to rim clearance, which can come in handy if you tweak a wheel in the middle of a ride/race. Mark Hickey Habanero Cycles http://www.habcycles.com Home of the $695 ti frame |
#6
|
|||
|
|||
Good Canti's, or go linear?
wrote:
Cantis work fine (as long as they're set up right), and I personally prefer the "feel" to linear brakes. In fact, I still run cantis on the back of all my personal MTBs (though I had to switch to linear brakes on the front because forks no longer come with cable hangers). Linear brakes can have a slight advantage in mechanical advantage, and are usually (not always) easier to set up. Cantis tend to squeal less, have better modulation, and the pads are thicker (last longer). They also allow for greater pad to rim clearance, which can come in handy if you tweak a wheel in the middle of a ride/race. Thanks, Dan. Great points, too. I noticed the same (squeal) issue cited almost universally regarding the XT V-brake. Hard to believe that you couldn't get around something like that with pads, proper setup, clean rims, etc., but maybe.... Had a squeal on the front Tektro canti (OEM) on my Cannondale tourer. C'Dale Wound up replacing the canti (Avids), the rim, then the whole frame before the squeal went away. Not anxious to re-visit that! My mtb has integrated brake levers/shifters. Sounds like new, decent cantis are the simplest approach. (...and Dan wrote): One of the Avid cantis has a reputation for squealing. I don't know if this is because of the design or because lots of talkative people don't know how to set them up.... I have no problems with cantilever brakes. I have linear/v- brake/direct pull on one bike and cantis on another (and dual pivots on the road bike). Each is different, but both work well. Unless you are having problems braking, feeling unsafe, I wouldn't encourage you to go to direct pull. I never feel unsafe with cantis, but I do occasionally go overboard with the direct pull and come close to locking up a wheel when it isn't a good thing to do. The direct pull take a more delicate touch. A short range between just starting to brake and full pressure. For the cost of the travel agents, you can get brake levers for direct pull brakes, can't you? Why clutter the bike up? I think that the travel agents are worth looking at if you have integrated brake/shifters, but if they are separate, just get new levers. Thanks, Mark. Excellent points. I don't seem to have a problem settin up the cantis. I used to have roller cam brakes on my prior mtb. figure, if you can keep those adjusted, the rest is gravy (Mark wrote) - |
#7
|
|||
|
|||
Good Canti's, or go linear?
wrote:
Cantis work fine (as long as they're set up right), and I personally prefer the "feel" to linear brakes. In fact, I still run cantis on the back of all my personal MTBs (though I had to switch to linear brakes on the front because forks no longer come with cable hangers). Linear brakes can have a slight advantage in mechanical advantage, and are usually (not always) easier to set up. Cantis tend to squeal less, have better modulation, and the pads are thicker (last longer). They also allow for greater pad to rim clearance, which can come in handy if you tweak a wheel in the middle of a ride/race. Thanks, Dan. Great points, too. I noticed the same (squeal) issue cited almost universally regarding the XT V-brake. Hard to believe that you couldn't get around something like that with pads, proper setup, clean rims, etc., but maybe.... Had a squeal on the front Tektro canti (OEM) on my Cannondale tourer. C'Dale Wound up replacing the canti (Avids), the rim, then the whole frame before the squeal went away. Not anxious to re-visit that! My mtb has integrated brake levers/shifters. Sounds like new, decent cantis are the simplest approach. (...and Dan wrote): One of the Avid cantis has a reputation for squealing. I don't know if this is because of the design or because lots of talkative people don't know how to set them up.... I have no problems with cantilever brakes. I have linear/v- brake/direct pull on one bike and cantis on another (and dual pivots on the road bike). Each is different, but both work well. Unless you are having problems braking, feeling unsafe, I wouldn't encourage you to go to direct pull. I never feel unsafe with cantis, but I do occasionally go overboard with the direct pull and come close to locking up a wheel when it isn't a good thing to do. The direct pull take a more delicate touch. A short range between just starting to brake and full pressure. For the cost of the travel agents, you can get brake levers for direct pull brakes, can't you? Why clutter the bike up? I think that the travel agents are worth looking at if you have integrated brake/shifters, but if they are separate, just get new levers. Thanks, Mark. Excellent points. I don't seem to have a problem settin up the cantis. I used to have roller cam brakes on my prior mtb. figure, if you can keep those adjusted, the rest is gravy (Mark wrote) - |
#8
|
|||
|
|||
Good Canti's, or go linear?
neil- My ?'s : Seems like there are some pretty good canti's on the market
right now, reasonably priced (e.g., Avids). There's also the option of using a pulley gizmo (Sheldon Brown's article: http://tinyurl.com/37fcx) and installing a direct-pull brake. BRBR Save yer $ and get some nice cantis. No need for 'gizmos' and they work great. Avids, Tektros, shimano-all really nice. Are canti's dated technology, or a brake that's applicable only to tourers and obsolete MTB's? BRBR Nope. V brakes are longer armed, more power but well set up cantis work just fine... Peter Chisholm Vecchio's Bicicletteria 1833 Pearl St. Boulder, CO, 80302 (303)440-3535 http://www.vecchios.com "Ruote convenzionali costruite eccezionalmente bene" |
#9
|
|||
|
|||
Good Canti's, or go linear?
neil- My ?'s : Seems like there are some pretty good canti's on the market
right now, reasonably priced (e.g., Avids). There's also the option of using a pulley gizmo (Sheldon Brown's article: http://tinyurl.com/37fcx) and installing a direct-pull brake. BRBR Save yer $ and get some nice cantis. No need for 'gizmos' and they work great. Avids, Tektros, shimano-all really nice. Are canti's dated technology, or a brake that's applicable only to tourers and obsolete MTB's? BRBR Nope. V brakes are longer armed, more power but well set up cantis work just fine... Peter Chisholm Vecchio's Bicicletteria 1833 Pearl St. Boulder, CO, 80302 (303)440-3535 http://www.vecchios.com "Ruote convenzionali costruite eccezionalmente bene" |
#10
|
|||
|
|||
Good Canti's, or go linear?
neil0502 wrote:
The shifters on my old MTB blew out last week. Replaced them, the bars, and all cables. That all seems fine. Pulled off my cantilever brakes, f&r, greased studs, then looked the parts over. Pads have dry rot, hardware is rusted. Small parts add up quickly. I'd like to replace. My ?'s : Seems like there are some pretty good canti's on the market right now, reasonably priced (e.g., Avids). There's also the option of using a pulley gizmo (Sheldon Brown's article: http://tinyurl.com/37fcx) and installing a direct-pull brake. Are canti's dated technology, or a brake that's applicable only to tourers and obsolete MTB's? I never had a problem setting them up, or getting an appropriate degree of mechanical advantage. Are direct-pulls just a better design, and worth any compromise that the 'Travel Agent' gizmo might imply? Should the brake boss care which I put on? V-brakes are lovely, although you'll have to get the right levers. A full Deore set including cables is very cheap and works better than anything else I've tried. The LX and higher V-brakes have parallel push arms, which can squeal like a pig if the pivots get sloppy. So personally I'd have the V-brakes :-) |
|
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
Danny-boy flails some more! (was: Advice on a good hardtail.) | Jonesy | Mountain Biking | 31 | June 18th 04 08:01 PM |
is this a good price? | steve | Mountain Biking | 8 | June 11th 04 10:30 AM |
Advice on a good hardtail. | frodge | Mountain Biking | 48 | May 29th 04 01:49 PM |
Odd - but is it a good idea? | Sparky | Mountain Biking | 39 | May 26th 04 04:17 AM |
Value of a good dealer. | Fred | General | 3 | July 11th 03 06:17 AM |