Sanshin sealed bearing rear hub - broken axle - replaceable?

It's that old Cannondale tourer with the 27" wheels again...

Dear knows how long I'd been riding it like that. The qr is a snug fit
and was holding everything together, so I only noticed when I took the
block off to change to fixed for the winter.

I checked that the brakes will reach a 700c, so that's what it has for
now, but i hate to throw a good wheel, hence the questien.

Jenny Brien wrote:

Dear knows how long I'd been riding it like that. The qr is a snug fit
and was holding everything together, so I only noticed when I took the
block off to change to fixed for the winter.

I checked that the brakes will reach a 700c, so that's what it has for
now, but i hate to throw a good wheel, hence the questien.

It's a normal axle, with cylindrical bearing interfaces instead of
ordinary cones. The same tools and techniques apply to replacing this
axle as to replacing the axle of any other freewheel rear hub with
loose balls.

If you do the swap yourself, *do not preload* the cartridge bearings
with their "cones". It is good practice even with a loose ball hub to
leave a tiny bit of end play that will be taken up by compression from
the QR skewer. With a sealed bearing hub, it's even more important to
do this because the bearings are easier to damage with axial overloads.


Chalo

Chalo wrote:

It's a normal axle, with cylindrical bearing interfaces instead of
ordinary cones. The same tools and techniques apply to replacing this
axle as to replacing the axle of any other freewheel rear hub with
loose balls.

Chalo

Perhaps not. Some Sanshin/Sunshine/Suntour sealed hubs used non
standard, ie: non 10x1 threading.
Phil Brown

Jenny Brien wrote:
It's that old Cannondale tourer with the 27" wheels again...

Dear knows how long I'd been riding it like that. The qr is a snug fit
and was holding everything together, so I only noticed when I took the
block off to change to fixed for the winter.

I checked that the brakes will reach a 700c, so that's what it has for
now, but i hate to throw a good wheel, hence the questien.

Take it to a bike shop and match the diameter, thread pitch and length.
There's a chance that Wheels Mfg. makes a replacement.

http://www.wheelsmfg.com/index.php

philcycles wrote:

Chalo wrote:

It's a normal axle, with cylindrical bearing interfaces instead of
ordinary cones. The same tools and techniques apply to replacing this
axle as to replacing the axle of any other freewheel rear hub with
loose balls.

Perhaps not. Some Sanshin/Sunshine/Suntour sealed hubs used non
standard, ie: non 10x1 threading.

The fronts often had M9x1 and the BMX variants used 3/8"-24 (or perhaps
3/8"-26) threads. In any case all these threads are available as
replacement axles-- along with 9mm x 26tpi, 10mm x 26tpi, and 5/16"-26,
M14x1 and probably others.

Chalo

Chalo wrote:


It's a normal axle, with cylindrical bearing interfaces instead of
ordinary cones. The same tools and techniques apply to replacing this
axle as to replacing the axle of any other freewheel rear hub with
loose balls.

Well, that's what's foxing me. A cup and cone with a broken axle would
simply come apart, but this doesn't. Looks like I somehow have to
unscrew each "cone" separately. BUT with the axle broken there is no
connection between the ends. How do I stop the axle halves rotating?

Jenny Brien wrote:
It's that old Cannondale tourer with the 27" wheels again...

Dear knows how long I'd been riding it like that. The qr is a snug fit
and was holding everything together, so I only noticed when I took the
block off to change to fixed for the winter.

I checked that the brakes will reach a 700c, so that's what it has for
now, but i hate to throw a good wheel, hence the questien.

my Guess is that it's a 9.5 by 26 axle, easy to find a decent bike
shops.

Chalo wrote:


It's a normal axle, with cylindrical bearing interfaces instead of
ordinary cones. The same tools and techniques apply to replacing this
axle as to replacing the axle of any other freewheel rear hub with
loose balls.

Well, that's what's foxing me. A cup and cone with a broken axle would
simply come apart, but this doesn't. Looks like I somehow have to
unscrew each "cone" separately. BUT with the axle broken there is no
connection between the ends. How do I stop the axle halves rotating?

Just answered my own question; I clamped the two halves of the broken
axle together with the QR and then I was able to unscrew the freewheel
side enough to tap the other "cone" out.

Thanks for the hint!