Whited sepulchres

After cleaning my chain extensively with a recently acquired
ultrasonic cleaner, I sprayed it with WD40, noted that it left black
smears on a paper towel, put it back on my bike, oiled it, and rode 90
miles on pavement.

Tonight, I wiped the chain off, put it in a plastic jug, poured in
some Simple Green, and shook it for 8 minutes.

I washed the chain off in hot water, put it in the ultrasonic cleaner,
added hot water, and set the cleaner running for 8 minutes.

Meanwhile, I found a new use for the filter and paper that my
coffee-loving sister uses when she visits . . .

I poured the dirty water out of the ultrasonic cleaner, cleaned the
tray out, washed the chain off with hot water, and put the chain back
into the ultrasonic cleaner for another 8 minutes with fresh Simple
Green instead of water.

(I didn't re-use the filtered Simple Green, lest it contain sludge.
Come Christmas Day, I must remember to ask my sister how effective she
thinks her coffee filter paper is.)

I washed the chain off in hot water again, wiped it dry with paper
towels, and sprayed some WD40 solvent on the chain that had been
cleaned for 8 minutes by shaking in a plastic jug of Simple Green, 8
more minutes in hot water in an ultrasonic cleaner, and 8 more minutes
in the ultrasonic cleaner with fresh Simple Green.

Here's what two paper towels looked like after all that cleaning:

http://i17.tinypic.com/4bgc4z9.jpg

I suspect that many claims made in good faith about chain cleaning
were based on the shiny outside of the chain. There seems to be a
tenacious reservoir of hidden filth inside the chain rollers.

Better results could be obtained with hotter liquids, stronger
solvents, longer shaking, and a more powerful ultrasonic cleaner, but
it's likely that any cleaning liquid works only on the thin outer
edges of the pipe-shaped coating of oily grime between the pin and
roller.

Imagine pressing two plates covered with filthy oil together and then
trying to wash between the plates while they're still pressed
together.

The next time that you clean a chain, wipe it dry with a paper towel,
fold it up a few times, spray it liberally with WD40, and wipe it on a
fresh paper towel.

Matthew 23:27 comes to mind.

Cheers,

Carl Fogel

wrote in news:hnqeo291pc0ipen1ps90psb37cg5ei0rs2@
4ax.com:

Better results could be obtained with hotter liquids, stronger
solvents, longer shaking, and a more powerful ultrasonic cleaner, but
it's likely that any cleaning liquid works only on the thin outer
edges of the pipe-shaped coating of oily grime between the pin and
roller.

Imagine pressing two plates covered with filthy oil together and then
trying to wash between the plates while they're still pressed
together.

The next time that you clean a chain, wipe it dry with a paper towel,
fold it up a few times, spray it liberally with WD40, and wipe it on a
fresh paper towel.



Carl,

Thanks for the report! It does make sense that it's next to impossible to
get to the film of oil between the links. On the other hand, it would
seem that the extra agitation of the ultrasonic gets more out than
without it.

I have a chain that I recently removed for cleaning, so I think I will
join you in attempting to find the ideal (if any) cleaning process.

Report to follow...

Cheers,
David

Solvang Cyclist wrote:
wrote in news:hnqeo291pc0ipen1ps90psb37cg5ei0rs2@
4ax.com:

Better results could be obtained with hotter liquids, stronger
solvents, longer shaking, and a more powerful ultrasonic cleaner, but
it's likely that any cleaning liquid works only on the thin outer
edges of the pipe-shaped coating of oily grime between the pin and
roller.

Imagine pressing two plates covered with filthy oil together and then
trying to wash between the plates while they're still pressed
together.

The next time that you clean a chain, wipe it dry with a paper towel,
fold it up a few times, spray it liberally with WD40, and wipe it on a
fresh paper towel.



Carl,

Thanks for the report! It does make sense that it's next to impossible to
get to the film of oil between the links. On the other hand, it would
seem that the extra agitation of the ultrasonic gets more out than
without it.

I have a chain that I recently removed for cleaning, so I think I will
join you in attempting to find the ideal (if any) cleaning process.

Report to follow...

Cheers,
David

Why not try some compressed air after the soak & agitation?

wrote:
After cleaning my chain extensively with a recently acquired
ultrasonic cleaner, I sprayed it with WD40, noted that it left black
smears on a paper towel, put it back on my bike, oiled it, and rode 90
miles on pavement.

Tonight, I wiped the chain off, put it in a plastic jug, poured in
some Simple Green, and shook it for 8 minutes.

I washed the chain off in hot water, put it in the ultrasonic cleaner,
added hot water, and set the cleaner running for 8 minutes.

Meanwhile, I found a new use for the filter and paper that my
coffee-loving sister uses when she visits . . .

I poured the dirty water out of the ultrasonic cleaner, cleaned the
tray out, washed the chain off with hot water, and put the chain back
into the ultrasonic cleaner for another 8 minutes with fresh Simple
Green instead of water.

(I didn't re-use the filtered Simple Green, lest it contain sludge.
Come Christmas Day, I must remember to ask my sister how effective she
thinks her coffee filter paper is.)

I washed the chain off in hot water again, wiped it dry with paper
towels, and sprayed some WD40 solvent on the chain that had been
cleaned for 8 minutes by shaking in a plastic jug of Simple Green, 8
more minutes in hot water in an ultrasonic cleaner, and 8 more minutes
in the ultrasonic cleaner with fresh Simple Green.

Here's what two paper towels looked like after all that cleaning:

http://i17.tinypic.com/4bgc4z9.jpg

I suspect that many claims made in good faith about chain cleaning
were based on the shiny outside of the chain. There seems to be a
tenacious reservoir of hidden filth inside the chain rollers.

Better results could be obtained with hotter liquids, stronger
solvents, longer shaking, and a more powerful ultrasonic cleaner, but
it's likely that any cleaning liquid works only on the thin outer
edges of the pipe-shaped coating of oily grime between the pin and
roller.

Imagine pressing two plates covered with filthy oil together and then
trying to wash between the plates while they're still pressed
together.

The next time that you clean a chain, wipe it dry with a paper towel,
fold it up a few times, spray it liberally with WD40, and wipe it on a
fresh paper towel.

Matthew 23:27 comes to mind.

Cheers,

Carl Fogel

Dear Carl -

I use the on-the-bike cleaning method with Prolink. Liberally soak the
chain while spinning the crank backwards (a thick and wide blanket of
newspaper or neighbor's lawn is necessary due to spatter) and allow to
penetrate. Repeat until the Prolink runs clean from the chain.

Every 500 or so miles I use the bottle/orange cleaner/hot water/shaking
method. Takes 2-3 repetitions but I believe that the chain is clean,
even between the plates and in the rollers.

If I have the time in the near future, I will take an old chain I have
that has been subjected to the above cleaning schedule and clean it
with my on the bike method (with Prolink). Then, I will crack a few
links and take some pics for you. I will also do the bottle method and
crack a few more links.

It is interesting to note the earlier postings about an evaluation of
chain wear versus cleaning rigor. The upshot of those was that a dirty
chain doesn't wear itself out faster but rather wears out the
chainrings. Which suggests that even if the interior of the chain
retains some grit, it doesn't matter, but removal of exterior caked on
crud is valuable.

D'ohBoy

Earls61 wrote:
Solvang Cyclist wrote:

wrote in news:hnqeo291pc0ipen1ps90psb37cg5ei0rs2@
4ax.com:


Better results could be obtained with hotter liquids, stronger
solvents, longer shaking, and a more powerful ultrasonic cleaner, but
it's likely that any cleaning liquid works only on the thin outer
edges of the pipe-shaped coating of oily grime between the pin and
roller.

Imagine pressing two plates covered with filthy oil together and then
trying to wash between the plates while they're still pressed
together.

The next time that you clean a chain, wipe it dry with a paper towel,
fold it up a few times, spray it liberally with WD40, and wipe it on a
fresh paper towel.



Carl,

Thanks for the report! It does make sense that it's next to impossible to
get to the film of oil between the links. On the other hand, it would
seem that the extra agitation of the ultrasonic gets more out than
without it.

I have a chain that I recently removed for cleaning, so I think I will
join you in attempting to find the ideal (if any) cleaning process.

Report to follow...

Cheers,
David


Why not try some compressed air after the soak & agitation?

Why not buy a new chain?

yeah, what he said.......



Tosspot wrote:


Why not buy a new chain?

D'ohBoy wrote:
wrote:
After cleaning my chain extensively with a recently acquired
ultrasonic cleaner, I sprayed it with WD40, noted that it left black
smears on a paper towel, put it back on my bike, oiled it, and rode 90
miles on pavement.

Tonight, I wiped the chain off, put it in a plastic jug, poured in
some Simple Green, and shook it for 8 minutes.

I washed the chain off in hot water, put it in the ultrasonic cleaner,
added hot water, and set the cleaner running for 8 minutes.

Meanwhile, I found a new use for the filter and paper that my
coffee-loving sister uses when she visits . . .

I poured the dirty water out of the ultrasonic cleaner, cleaned the
tray out, washed the chain off with hot water, and put the chain back
into the ultrasonic cleaner for another 8 minutes with fresh Simple
Green instead of water.

(I didn't re-use the filtered Simple Green, lest it contain sludge.
Come Christmas Day, I must remember to ask my sister how effective she
thinks her coffee filter paper is.)

I washed the chain off in hot water again, wiped it dry with paper
towels, and sprayed some WD40 solvent on the chain that had been
cleaned for 8 minutes by shaking in a plastic jug of Simple Green, 8
more minutes in hot water in an ultrasonic cleaner, and 8 more minutes
in the ultrasonic cleaner with fresh Simple Green.

Here's what two paper towels looked like after all that cleaning:

http://i17.tinypic.com/4bgc4z9.jpg

I suspect that many claims made in good faith about chain cleaning
were based on the shiny outside of the chain. There seems to be a
tenacious reservoir of hidden filth inside the chain rollers.

Better results could be obtained with hotter liquids, stronger
solvents, longer shaking, and a more powerful ultrasonic cleaner, but
it's likely that any cleaning liquid works only on the thin outer
edges of the pipe-shaped coating of oily grime between the pin and
roller.

Imagine pressing two plates covered with filthy oil together and then
trying to wash between the plates while they're still pressed
together.

The next time that you clean a chain, wipe it dry with a paper towel,
fold it up a few times, spray it liberally with WD40, and wipe it on a
fresh paper towel.

Matthew 23:27 comes to mind.

Cheers,

Carl Fogel

Dear Carl -

I use the on-the-bike cleaning method with Prolink. Liberally soak the
chain while spinning the crank backwards (a thick and wide blanket of
newspaper or neighbor's lawn is necessary due to spatter) and allow to
penetrate. Repeat until the Prolink runs clean from the chain.

Every 500 or so miles I use the bottle/orange cleaner/hot water/shaking
method. Takes 2-3 repetitions but I believe that the chain is clean,
even between the plates and in the rollers.

If I have the time in the near future, I will take an old chain I have
that has been subjected to the above cleaning schedule and clean it
with my on the bike method (with Prolink). Then, I will crack a few
links and take some pics for you. I will also do the bottle method and
crack a few more links.

It is interesting to note the earlier postings about an evaluation of
chain wear versus cleaning rigor. The upshot of those was that a dirty
chain doesn't wear itself out faster but rather wears out the
chainrings. Which suggests that even if the interior of the chain
retains some grit, it doesn't matter, but removal of exterior caked on
crud is valuable.

Too much time on your hands :-)

"zen cycle" wrote in
ps.com:

yeah, what he said.......

Tosspot wrote:

Why not buy a new chain?


Mainly because there's nothing wrong with the old one other than it's a
little dirty. When I have things that are dirty, such as clothes, carpet,
dishes, or bicycle chains, I tend to clean them rather than throw them
out and get new ones. It tends to provide me with more spending money so
I can get other stuff.

Now what Carl is discovering is that it's not easy (perhaps impossible)
to clean a chain thoroughly. This makes me want to discover better ways
of cleaning rather than immediately giving up.

Cheers,
David

I use mineral spirits (AKA paint thinner) and an Axiom chain cleaner
gizmo.
The second change of mineral spirits hardly shows any dirt and the towl
wipes clean. Just use as directed , twice. The on-the-bike cleaner has
the advantage of flexing the links as they go through the solvent.

That's my story, and I'm sticking to it! (the story, not the chain.)


--
waxbytes

wrote:
After cleaning my chain extensively

Dear Carl

I suggest you put the chain in a washing machine with some Tide to see
if it'll finally come clean.

I'm betting the Tide and a washing machine will yield a clean paper towel.

-paul