Chainwheel Skipping?

wrote:

it is very clear that it is worn due to chain stretch. the radius on
the front of the tooth is expanding (like waves at sea), the back of
the tooth shows *what the pitch should more or less appear as- the
tooth should be symetrical- but clearly it is not: it is caused by
chain stretch- you waited too long to replace the chain, you damaged
your chainring and the cassette.

So what? Like I said, the chainring was less than 20 USD. The old
one was original, from 1993. The new cassette cost 30 USD, replacing
the original one from 1993. I'm not even sure it needed replacement.
I got a skip with the new chain, but it turned out to be the chainring
- the cassette might actually have been fine. Since I had already
bought and put on the new cassette, it wasn't worth my effort to swap
the old cassette back in to retest.

The new chain was about 20 USD. I've gone through several chains on
the bike over the years, but not all that many. It's always over 1%
elongation by the time I think to check the length. I don't see how
buying a new chain more frequently, would save me money. A new chain
every six months or so (this is a mountain bike, gets ridden in rain,
snow, etc) at 20 USD doesn't seem more cost effective than a 50 USD in
chainrings and cassettes over 15 years.

On Mar 8, 12:43*am, Andrew Lee wrote:
wrote:
it is very clear that it is worn due to chain stretch. the radius on
the front of the tooth is expanding (like waves at sea), the back of
the tooth shows *what the pitch should more or less appear as- the
tooth should be symetrical- but clearly it is not: it is caused by
chain stretch- you waited too long to replace the chain, you damaged
your chainring and the cassette.

So what? *Like I said, the chainring was less than 20 USD. *The old
one was original, from 1993. *The new cassette cost 30 USD, replacing
the original one from 1993. *I'm not even sure it needed replacement.
I got a skip with the new chain, but it turned out to be the chainring
- the cassette might actually have been fine. *Since I had already
bought and put on the new cassette, it wasn't worth my effort to swap
the old cassette back in to retest.

The new chain was about 20 USD. *I've gone through several chains on
the bike over the years, but not all that many. *It's always over 1%
elongation by the time I think to check the length. *I don't see how
buying a new chain more frequently, would save me money. *A new chain
every six months or so (this is a mountain bike, gets ridden in rain,
snow, etc) at 20 USD doesn't seem more cost effective than a 50 USD in
chainrings and cassettes over 15 years.

you are crying that it might cost you more than $50 over 15 years ?
where do you live, in a dumpster ?

wrote:
you are crying that it might cost you more than $50 over 15 years ?
where do you live, in a dumpster ?

??? I wasn't the one complaining about the costs. You were the one
that suggested that I could have saved the chainring and cassette if I
had changed the chain more frequently. I only pointed out that it
would have actually cost more money in chains to change my chain more
frequently than I did because the replacement chainring and cassette
were so cheap.

If you think I'm complaining about the cost of chains, you're wrong
there too. I just ride the bike. I'm not checking chain length
weekly or however frequently you might think I should check it. I
don't put a lot of miles in this bike (short commute is primary use),
so I might check it about once a year, after the rainy season, when I
do a yearly overhaul.

Basically, I don't have any complaints about the state-of-function
(generally very good during actual riding) that I keep the bike in, or
cost of drivetrain parts, so I'm not sure what your issue is.