RIPS Nuovo Record bottom bracket

On Sun, 03 Jul 2016 20:46:42 +0100, Phil W Lee
wrote:

The correct pressure is measured by the amount the tyre compresses
under the normal, static, load, expressed as a percentage of the tyre
height (or width - for bicycle tyres this is almost always the same
thing). I can't remember the exact percentage, but it has been
mentioned here before.

And if you keep shredding sidewalls, you need to pay more attention to
your line, or rather the line your tyres will be following, in order
to avoid those surface hazards which cause the problem instead of
hammering blindly straight through them.

I wonder what James gets for tire usage as I suspect that he annually
puts more mileage on his bike(s) than anyone else here.
--
cheers,

John B.

On 04/07/16 11:59, John B. wrote:
On Sun, 03 Jul 2016 20:46:42 +0100, Phil W Lee
wrote:

The correct pressure is measured by the amount the tyre compresses
under the normal, static, load, expressed as a percentage of the tyre
height (or width - for bicycle tyres this is almost always the same
thing). I can't remember the exact percentage, but it has been
mentioned here before.

And if you keep shredding sidewalls, you need to pay more attention to
your line, or rather the line your tyres will be following, in order
to avoid those surface hazards which cause the problem instead of
hammering blindly straight through them.

I wonder what James gets for tire usage as I suspect that he annually
puts more mileage on his bike(s) than anyone else here.


Me? Not sure I ride all that far compared to some others, but the tyres
I use, I get about 5,000km from a rear and 10,000km from a front.

I *never* have problems with the side walls. I cut one a few years ago
and patched it. It was fine until the centre of the tyre was worn out.

I have noticed that since I moved to a warmer climate I get less mileage
from tyres - the rear in particular. Whether it is the warmer weather
or that I've been riding up some much steeper hills (20%+) than I used
to, I'm not sure.

--
JS

On Mon, 4 Jul 2016 19:20:45 +1000, James
wrote:

On 04/07/16 11:59, John B. wrote:
On Sun, 03 Jul 2016 20:46:42 +0100, Phil W Lee
wrote:

The correct pressure is measured by the amount the tyre compresses
under the normal, static, load, expressed as a percentage of the tyre
height (or width - for bicycle tyres this is almost always the same
thing). I can't remember the exact percentage, but it has been
mentioned here before.

And if you keep shredding sidewalls, you need to pay more attention to
your line, or rather the line your tyres will be following, in order
to avoid those surface hazards which cause the problem instead of
hammering blindly straight through them.

I wonder what James gets for tire usage as I suspect that he annually
puts more mileage on his bike(s) than anyone else here.


Me? Not sure I ride all that far compared to some others, but the tyres
I use, I get about 5,000km from a rear and 10,000km from a front.

I *never* have problems with the side walls. I cut one a few years ago
and patched it. It was fine until the centre of the tyre was worn out.

I have noticed that since I moved to a warmer climate I get less mileage
from tyres - the rear in particular. Whether it is the warmer weather
or that I've been riding up some much steeper hills (20%+) than I used
to, I'm not sure.

Thanks for the information.
--
cheers,

John B.

On 2016-07-03 12:46, Phil W Lee wrote:
Joerg considered Sat, 02 Jul 2016
15:22:09 -0700 the perfect time to write:

On 2016-07-02 09:35, jbeattie wrote:

[...]

... They are certainly more puncture resistant than
Gatorskins. While I like Gatorskins, I never thought they were that
durable. They were just a nice compromise between durability and
road feel. Tougher tires tend to ride like wagon wheels.


I am perfectly fine with a rough ride. I am used to that from my MTB
which has stiff tires run at 55psi.

Running tyres so hard that they slip instead of grip will also shorten
tyre life.
Run them at the CORRECT pressure and you will avoid overheating (from
too low a pressure) and excessive wear from slipping.


55psi is well in the recommended pressure range for these tires.


If the correct pressure is one which still gives you pinch flats, you
need a bigger tyre, or a different riding style, not a higher
pressure, except possibly briefly over tough but rarely encountered
conditions.


The MTB won't take more than 2.3". And no, I will not slow down, I
expect a vehicle to withstand a reasonable speed and terrain. The
touristy crawl of some MTB riders is not a reasonable speed for me
because I often simply need to get there in time. A bicycle to me is not
merely a recreational tool and even if it was I can't use a slowpoke.


The correct pressure is measured by the amount the tyre compresses
under the normal, static, load, expressed as a percentage of the tyre
height (or width - for bicycle tyres this is almost always the same
thing). I can't remember the exact percentage, but it has been
mentioned here before.


And then comes that one big rock at the end of a downhill stretch ...
kaklonk ... *PSHOOOOOF* ... flat.


And if you keep shredding sidewalls, you need to pay more attention to
your line, or rather the line your tyres will be following, in order
to avoid those surface hazards which cause the problem instead of
hammering blindly straight through them.


Yeah, right, I'll send a dozen or so servants out to pick up half a
gazillion rocks and toss them aside.

Dirt bikes (illegally) barrel through there at 35-45mph so I expect a
MTB to allow at least 15-20mph. Else I might as well walk.

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

On 7/5/2016 10:52 AM, Joerg wrote:
On 2016-07-03 12:46, Phil W Lee wrote:


The correct pressure is measured by the amount the tyre compresses
under the normal, static, load, expressed as a percentage of the tyre
height (or width - for bicycle tyres this is almost always the same
thing). I can't remember the exact percentage, but it has been
mentioned here before.

It's usually 15%, but that's for road bikes.

And then comes that one big rock at the end of a downhill stretch ...
kaklonk ... *PSHOOOOOF* ... flat.

I notice Joerg's posts are heavy with both potential disasters, and with
sound effects.

--
- Frank Krygowski

On 2016-07-05 08:30, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 7/5/2016 10:52 AM, Joerg wrote:
On 2016-07-03 12:46, Phil W Lee wrote:


The correct pressure is measured by the amount the tyre compresses
under the normal, static, load, expressed as a percentage of the tyre
height (or width - for bicycle tyres this is almost always the same
thing). I can't remember the exact percentage, but it has been
mentioned here before.

It's usually 15%, but that's for road bikes.


Most MTB riders I know go for a lot more and, not surprisingly, suffer
flats galore. To the point where I dislike going with large groups
because someone always has a flat. And it's usually never me, also not a
surprise.


And then comes that one big rock at the end of a downhill stretch ...
kaklonk ... *PSHOOOOOF* ... flat.

I notice Joerg's posts are heavy with both potential disasters, and with
sound effects.


That is the sound the bikes in front or behind of me made when an
unexpected li'l rocky creek bed was hit too fast. Trying to fix a pinch
flat is always fun. One guy had two and, of course, didn't have yet
another spare tube for the 2nd flat. It's not a disaster but it is not
pleasant to always have to stop and wait or help fix it.

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

David Scheidt wrote in news:nku9sg$7ps$1
@reader1.panix.com:

Andrew Chaplin wrote:
:You gave 44 years of valiant service, and only started to make noise this
:spring.

Have you replaced the balls?

About every two years.
--
Andrew Chaplin
SIT MIHI GLADIUS SICUT SANCTO MARTINO
(If you're going to e-mail me, you'll have to get "yourfinger." out.)