Trek 2100 Carbon?

On Apr 9, 9:07*am, " wrote:
On Apr 8, 7:43 pm, Nate Nagel wrote:





N8N wrote:
On Apr 8, 4:28 pm, " wrote:

On Apr 8, 4:21 pm, N8N wrote:

On Apr 8, 2:20 pm, " wrote:

On Apr 8, 1:55 pm, N8N wrote:

On Apr 8, 1:52 pm, " wrote:

On Apr 8, 12:53 pm, N8N wrote:

Would this be a good bike for just general recreational road riding?
I believe it's a 1998 model supposedly in "fantastic condition."
Wasn't looking for anything like this at all but it came up for a
price well within my discretionary spending budget. *Am thinking this
bike may be more serious than I am

thanks,

Nate

From what I know about you and your uses/interests, I'd probably stay
away from carbon frames and low spoke count wheels. *I think you were
on the right track with a Surly, or maybe a JTS. *Even the cross bike
your LBS tried to sell you... something other than carbon with wheels
that have few spokes. *It's kinda like having an old lotus as a daily
driver. *Sure, they're fun, but as a regular driver? *Then again, a
lot depends on your weight and the condition of your local roads and
paths.

Heh, see my last post. *I have a serious jones for an Elite, know
where I could get one for cheap?

nate- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Do you know what size frame you want? *Here's a couple to glance at:http://tinyurl.com/5gj7a7&http://tin...idequotedtext-

i'm thinking I need probably either a 56 or 57cm. *The Fuji I was
looking at at my LBS was a 58cm frame and it just felt too big.
Certain portions of my anatomy were quivering in fear when I tried to
put my feet flat on the ground.

nate- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

OK, in that case the 2 I linked are too big. *They're still more along
the lines of what I'd be looking for if I were you.

Yeah, that was kind of what I was looking for as well, but the 2100 is
similarly priced, is why it caught my eye. *I'm pretty much a sucker
for anything high performance. *You should see some of the stupid
stuff I've done to my cars.

I'm trying to show restraint here, but i'm not sure how successful
I'll be

nate

Hmmm... took the POS bike for a real-ish ride today (dropped car off for
a tire balance and oil change, just threw the bike in the hatch rather
than wait for SWMBO to come home and pick me up) my knees hurt. *I think
it's too small, even with the seat jacked up. *Makes sense as the PO was
about 3" shorter than I. *Makes me want to buy something.

You maintain the Stude and yet the shop changes the oil on the FBP?
Never would have seen that coming. *Then again, when it's cold and wet
out my mechanic changes my oil too.

Anyway, congrats on the ride. *Ride that thing as much as you can
before you get your next bike, you'll appreciate the difference that
much more.

Here's something that may surprise you - I really don't like working
on cars. I *do* like driving nice cars. Sometimes the only way to
own something that fits your personal definition of "nice" is to build
it yourself

I do wish that there was a shop around that could handle the final
tuning on the Stude - I so want to drive it but I know it's going to
be a lot of trial and error to get the carb set up right (it's a new
Edelbrock "Thunder Series" AVS clone)


I'm hoping that I come to my senses otherwise people are going to be
asking "who's that chubby poser on that nice bike?" *If they notice at
all, that is.

Nothing wrong with being a chubby guy on a bike. *Hell, I know some
really fast chubby guys.

Fit makes a huge difference, and your knees will be one of the first
places to notice. *Some fit issues can be addressed with seat position
and/or a new stem, but a bike that really doesn't fit just won't fit.
One of the nice things about buying a bike from a shop is a good shop
can and will properly fit you to a bike. *However, in my area less
than half the shops I know of do that. *A quick standover is not a
fit, by the way.

So I'm guessing you to be 5'7 or 5'8ish, give or take a bit in either
direction, to want a 56/57 frame. *Depending you your version of
chubby, you might be pushing the weight limit of that 2100, especially
the wheels. *Like I said, if you don't mind having to wrench it and
take care of it all the more power to you, have a blast. *I'd probably
buy it if it was cheap enough, though it'd have to be real, real cheap
to get me to buy a 10 year old weight-weenie model.

Did you take a gander at this one? * *http://tinyurl.com/3vpmsj*If
you really want something racy, you could do worse. *I have a feeling
you'll be replacing spokes semi-regularly or getting new wheels, but
overall it's not a bad bike. *It takes at least 32c tires, which is
nice. *It's got a triple (3 sprockets up front) for the hills. *Aside
from the low spoke count I like it a lot. *Then again, I weight in @
200lbs and encounter bumps, potholes, curbs, etc. so I really don't
like low spoke wheels. *YMMV.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


I'm actually a generous 5'10" or a light 5'11" about 180 lbs. give or
take (haven't actually weighed myself in ages. Might be closer to
190, who knows.) I guess my legs are short for my height because I
did feel like the 58cm Cross Comp was just a little too big for me.
Back when I was really in shape I had amazing leg strength - could
actually out-squat some of the varsity football players at my high
school, which was full of mutant large football players - which is
part of my concern with the carbon frame - I'm wondering if I really
got back into riding enough to build up my legs any appreciable
amount, I could actually do something bad to the frame. Is this a
real concern?

nate

N8N aka Nate Nagel wrote:
On Apr 9, 1:32 am, Tom Sherman
wrote:
N8N aka Nate Nagel wrote: On Apr 8, 1:35 pm, landotter wrote:
On Apr 8, 11:53 am, N8N wrote:
Would this be a good bike for just general recreational road riding?
If you ride on sunny days with smooth roads and it fits--you'll have
plenty of fun with it. I personally wouldn't want to own just a gee
whiz fast bike as my only bike--but if it fits you and your needs, go
for it. Have a good look at the frame and fork before buying. Look for
deep scratches and cracks. If it's "well used", walk away.
Well, I *do* own a 20 year old Porsche as my "real" car, if that gives
you any kind of idea as to what makes my ears wiggle I even put
snow tires on it in the winter, which no doubt gives the "purists"
apoplectic fits.
This is what a vintage Porsche would look like if you drove around here
for a few winters:
http://content.leenks.com/pics/2008/oldexotics/oldexotics-6.jpg.

Can't see your pic at work and it's probably just as well...

It is the rotting, er rusting corpse of a (early 1970's?) Porsche 911.

Full collection of "exotics" that have seen better days is he
http://www.leenks.com/gallery641.htm.

truth is, that since the mid-70s Porsche has used all galvanized steel
as well as adding that typical German paraffin undercoating, so
they're actually fairly rust resistant as far as car bodies go.
Actually surprisingly practical, if you can just get past the cost of
parts.

Well, all the suspension bits, brakes, etc. will still rust up.
Eventually, it will not be worth it to repair the vehicle, unless it is
something where the ID plate is worth more than the cost of a complete
rebuild (e.g. 250 GTO).

Of course a VW GTI or Scirocco is 90% of the fun for 50% of the cost,
but I never said that all my purchasing decisions made perfect sense.

Here is the car I really want:
http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc214/vt1992s10/100_0467.jpg.

--
Tom Sherman - Holstein-Friesland Bovinia
The weather is here, wish you were beautiful

Tom Sherman wrote:

Would this be a good bike for just general recreational road
riding?

If you ride on sunny days with smooth roads and it fits--you'll
have plenty of fun with it. I personally wouldn't want to own
just a gee whiz fast bike as my only bike--but if it fits you
and your needs, go for it. Have a good look at the frame and
fork before buying. Look for deep scratches and cracks. If
it's "well used", walk away.

Well, I *do* own a 20 year old Porsche as my "real" car, if that
gives you any kind of idea as to what makes my ears wiggle. I
even put snow tires on it in the winter, which no doubt gives the
"purists" apoplectic fits.

This is what a vintage Porsche would look like if you drove around here
for a few winters:

http://content.leenks.com/pics/2008/...dexotics-6.jpg

Can't see your pic at work and it's probably just as well...

It is the rotting, er rusting corpse of a (early 1970's?) Porsche
911.

Full collection of "exotics" that have seen better days is he

http://www.leenks.com/gallery641.htm

truth is, that since the mid-70s Porsche has used all galvanized
steel as well as adding that typical German paraffin undercoating,
so they're actually fairly rust resistant as far as car bodies go.
Actually surprisingly practical, if you can just get past the cost
of parts.

Well, all the suspension bits, brakes, etc. will still rust up.
Eventually, it will not be worth it to repair the vehicle, unless it
is something where the ID plate is worth more than the cost of a
complete rebuild (e.g. 250 GTO).

Of course a VW GTI or Scirocco is 90% of the fun for 50% of the
cost, but I never said that all my purchasing decisions made
perfect sense.

Here is the car I really want:

http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/c...0/100_0467.jpg

Here are some more exotics that cost us a ton of money:

http://www.stockwellphotos.com/catalog_amarc.htm

Jobst Brandt

aka Jobst Brandt wrote:
Tom Sherman wrote:

Would this be a good bike for just general recreational road
riding?

If you ride on sunny days with smooth roads and it fits--you'll
have plenty of fun with it. I personally wouldn't want to own
just a gee whiz fast bike as my only bike--but if it fits you
and your needs, go for it. Have a good look at the frame and
fork before buying. Look for deep scratches and cracks. If
it's "well used", walk away.

Well, I *do* own a 20 year old Porsche as my "real" car, if that
gives you any kind of idea as to what makes my ears wiggle. I
even put snow tires on it in the winter, which no doubt gives the
"purists" apoplectic fits.

This is what a vintage Porsche would look like if you drove around here
for a few winters:

http://content.leenks.com/pics/2008/...dexotics-6.jpg

Can't see your pic at work and it's probably just as well...

It is the rotting, er rusting corpse of a (early 1970's?) Porsche
911.

Full collection of "exotics" that have seen better days is he

http://www.leenks.com/gallery641.htm

truth is, that since the mid-70s Porsche has used all galvanized
steel as well as adding that typical German paraffin undercoating,
so they're actually fairly rust resistant as far as car bodies go.
Actually surprisingly practical, if you can just get past the cost
of parts.

Well, all the suspension bits, brakes, etc. will still rust up.
Eventually, it will not be worth it to repair the vehicle, unless it
is something where the ID plate is worth more than the cost of a
complete rebuild (e.g. 250 GTO).

Of course a VW GTI or Scirocco is 90% of the fun for 50% of the
cost, but I never said that all my purchasing decisions made
perfect sense.

Here is the car I really want:

http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/c...0/100_0467.jpg

Here are some more exotics that cost us a ton of money:

Leave no military contractor behind.

http://www.stockwellphotos.com/catalog_amarc.htm

Lots of alloy, er aluminium there!

--
Tom Sherman - Holstein-Friesland Bovinia
The weather is here, wish you were beautiful

"Tom Sherman" wrote in message
...

Leave no military contractor behind.

http://www.stockwellphotos.com/catalog_amarc.htm

Lots of alloy, er aluminium there!


I like how the heading refers to it as being in Phoenix, but a couple of the
photo captions say it's in Tucson. If you locate the satellite pics on
Google maps, you can see that it's not even in the middle of nowhere.
There's a housing subdivision across the street.

Google "32.165278,-110.831709"

Carl Sundquist wrote:

"Tom Sherman" wrote in message
...

Leave no military contractor behind.

http://www.stockwellphotos.com/catalog_amarc.htm

Lots of alloy, er aluminium there!


I like how the heading refers to it as being in Phoenix, but a couple of
the photo captions say it's in Tucson. If you locate the satellite pics
on Google maps, you can see that it's not even in the middle of nowhere.
There's a housing subdivision across the street.

Google "32.165278,-110.831709"


indeed.

i've been there a couple of times, and if you're any type of engineering
geek, it's an absolute must-see. that and the pima air museum across
the other side of the street. and the titan missile museum down the
road. seriously, it's worth the plane ticket just to see it all.

i was on a road trip first time, with no time constraints, november so
nobody about. i got chatting with one of the museum staff and long
story short, he ended up showing me sr71 videos for the better part of
/two/ days! something of an enthusiast i gathered.

On Apr 9, 2:32 pm, N8N wrote:
On Apr 9, 9:07 am, " wrote:





On Apr 8, 7:43 pm, Nate Nagel wrote:

N8N wrote:
On Apr 8, 4:28 pm, " wrote:

On Apr 8, 4:21 pm, N8N wrote:

On Apr 8, 2:20 pm, " wrote:

On Apr 8, 1:55 pm, N8N wrote:

On Apr 8, 1:52 pm, " wrote:

On Apr 8, 12:53 pm, N8N wrote:

Would this be a good bike for just general recreational road riding?
I believe it's a 1998 model supposedly in "fantastic condition."
Wasn't looking for anything like this at all but it came up for a
price well within my discretionary spending budget. Am thinking this
bike may be more serious than I am

thanks,

Nate

From what I know about you and your uses/interests, I'd probably stay
away from carbon frames and low spoke count wheels. I think you were
on the right track with a Surly, or maybe a JTS. Even the cross bike
your LBS tried to sell you... something other than carbon with wheels
that have few spokes. It's kinda like having an old lotus as a daily
driver. Sure, they're fun, but as a regular driver? Then again, a
lot depends on your weight and the condition of your local roads and
paths.

Heh, see my last post. I have a serious jones for an Elite, know
where I could get one for cheap?

nate- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Do you know what size frame you want? Here's a couple to glance at:http://tinyurl.com/5gj7a7&http://tin...idequotedtext-

i'm thinking I need probably either a 56 or 57cm. The Fuji I was
looking at at my LBS was a 58cm frame and it just felt too big.
Certain portions of my anatomy were quivering in fear when I tried to
put my feet flat on the ground.

nate- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

OK, in that case the 2 I linked are too big. They're still more along
the lines of what I'd be looking for if I were you.

Yeah, that was kind of what I was looking for as well, but the 2100 is
similarly priced, is why it caught my eye. I'm pretty much a sucker
for anything high performance. You should see some of the stupid
stuff I've done to my cars.

I'm trying to show restraint here, but i'm not sure how successful
I'll be

nate

Hmmm... took the POS bike for a real-ish ride today (dropped car off for
a tire balance and oil change, just threw the bike in the hatch rather
than wait for SWMBO to come home and pick me up) my knees hurt. I think
it's too small, even with the seat jacked up. Makes sense as the PO was
about 3" shorter than I. Makes me want to buy something.

You maintain the Stude and yet the shop changes the oil on the FBP?
Never would have seen that coming. Then again, when it's cold and wet
out my mechanic changes my oil too.

Anyway, congrats on the ride. Ride that thing as much as you can
before you get your next bike, you'll appreciate the difference that
much more.

Here's something that may surprise you - I really don't like working
on cars. I *do* like driving nice cars. Sometimes the only way to
own something that fits your personal definition of "nice" is to build
it yourself

You're right, that does surprise me. I feel you on the needing to
build nice yourself thing, I feel that way about a few things but they
tend to have 2 wheels, or have no wheels and float. With cars and
trucks it's usually small mods, someone else got it pretty damn close
most of the time.


I do wish that there was a shop around that could handle the final
tuning on the Stude - I so want to drive it but I know it's going to
be a lot of trial and error to get the carb set up right (it's a new
Edelbrock "Thunder Series" AVS clone)

Damn shame. I know a guy in NH, not that that's a hike or anything.


I'm hoping that I come to my senses otherwise people are going to be
asking "who's that chubby poser on that nice bike?" If they notice at
all, that is.

Nothing wrong with being a chubby guy on a bike. Hell, I know some
really fast chubby guys.

Fit makes a huge difference, and your knees will be one of the first
places to notice. Some fit issues can be addressed with seat position
and/or a new stem, but a bike that really doesn't fit just won't fit.
One of the nice things about buying a bike from a shop is a good shop
can and will properly fit you to a bike. However, in my area less
than half the shops I know of do that. A quick standover is not a
fit, by the way.

So I'm guessing you to be 5'7 or 5'8ish, give or take a bit in either
direction, to want a 56/57 frame. Depending you your version of
chubby, you might be pushing the weight limit of that 2100, especially
the wheels. Like I said, if you don't mind having to wrench it and
take care of it all the more power to you, have a blast. I'd probably
buy it if it was cheap enough, though it'd have to be real, real cheap
to get me to buy a 10 year old weight-weenie model.

Did you take a gander at this one? http://tinyurl.com/3vpmsj If
you really want something racy, you could do worse. I have a feeling
you'll be replacing spokes semi-regularly or getting new wheels, but
overall it's not a bad bike. It takes at least 32c tires, which is
nice. It's got a triple (3 sprockets up front) for the hills. Aside
from the low spoke count I like it a lot. Then again, I weight in @
200lbs and encounter bumps, potholes, curbs, etc. so I really don't
like low spoke wheels. YMMV.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I'm actually a generous 5'10" or a light 5'11" about 180 lbs. give or
take (haven't actually weighed myself in ages. Might be closer to
190, who knows.) I guess my legs are short for my height because I
did feel like the 58cm Cross Comp was just a little too big for me.

That's surprising. Everyone is built different, but I'm the same
height and find a 58 usually fits me nice. Also keep in mind the
stem, seat etc. can greatly change the feel of a bike. Could be you
have a short inseam, could be you're just used to riding a smaller
frame, it's hard to say. Keep in mind road bikes are not supposed to
have much clearance between the top tube and the goodies. One of the
roadies may be able to give you a more specific number than "not
much".

If you wanted to find out you could get a fitting, or at least measure
your inseam and check some charts. Also remember, different companies
measure size differently, so one companies 58 is another's 59-59.5.
There's a good article to check out here http://tinyurl.com/5aacha


Back when I was really in shape I had amazing leg strength - could
actually out-squat some of the varsity football players at my high
school, which was full of mutant large football players - which is
part of my concern with the carbon frame - I'm wondering if I really
got back into riding enough to build up my legs any appreciable
amount, I could actually do something bad to the frame. Is this a
real concern?

I'm not qualified to answer that question, but I will anyway - I
really doubt it. I don't think your average layman, however strong,
is going to put more torque on those things than the pro racers, and
they're not ripping frames apart with their leg strength. However,
180-190 is on the upper end of the weight range for some of those
carbon bikes and low spoke count wheels. I know I've had shops I
trust tell me flat out they wouldn't advise a carbon frame under me
when I weighed 190ish. Then again, I know others that would sell an
all-carbon bike with a 150lb limit to a 450lb man without blinking.

Another thing to consider is clearance for bigger tires and/or
fenders. Tire size is a function of where you ride for the most part,
you'd have to tell us more about the condition of the roads and
trails. Fenders rock though, especially on your only bike. Sometimes
it's absolutely beautiful out, but the roads are still wet from a
previous rain. Without fenders the front tire soaks your legs front
while the rear throws a wet skunk-stripe up your back, making the ride
miserable. Fenders can transform that same ride into one of the
better rides of the season. Most of these race bikes with low spoke
wheels, carbon frames, etc. won't have clearance for fenders, even if
you kludge the mounting (they almost certainly won't have eyelets).

On Apr 9, 10:03*pm, Tom Sherman
wrote:
N8N aka Nate Nagel wrote:



On Apr 9, 1:32 am, Tom Sherman
wrote:
N8N aka Nate Nagel wrote: On Apr 8, 1:35 pm, landotter wrote:
On Apr 8, 11:53 am, N8N wrote:
Would this be a good bike for just general recreational road riding?
If you ride on sunny days with smooth roads and it fits--you'll have
plenty of fun with it. I personally wouldn't want to own just a gee
whiz fast bike as my only bike--but if it fits you and your needs, go
for it. Have a good look at the frame and fork before buying. Look for
deep scratches and cracks. If it's "well used", walk away.
Well, I *do* own a 20 year old Porsche as my "real" car, if that gives
you any kind of idea as to what makes my ears wiggle *I even put
snow tires on it in the winter, which no doubt gives the "purists"
apoplectic fits.
This is what a vintage Porsche would look like if you drove around here
for a few winters:
http://content.leenks.com/pics/2008/oldexotics/oldexotics-6.jpg.

Can't see your pic at work and it's probably just as well...

It is the rotting, er rusting corpse of a (early 1970's?) Porsche 911.

Full collection of "exotics" that have seen better days is he
http://www.leenks.com/gallery641.htm.

I'm deliberately not clicking on that link.


truth is, that since the mid-70s Porsche has used all galvanized steel
as well as adding that typical German paraffin undercoating, so
they're actually fairly rust resistant as far as car bodies go.
Actually surprisingly practical, if you can just get past the cost of
parts.

Well, all the suspension bits, brakes, etc. will still rust up.
Eventually, it will not be worth it to repair the vehicle, unless it is
something where the ID plate is worth more than the cost of a complete
rebuild (e.g. 250 GTO).

Not so much as you'd think. Most of the exposed parts of the car that
aren't part of the main body structure (suspension, engine, transaxle,
etc.) are all aluminum not steel; not that aluminum can't corrode, but
it's no big deal in practice.

I've probably already passed the point where repair is not cost
effective, but until someone makes a new car that drives and handles
as well for a price I can afford, I will keep patching it up.

Of course a VW GTI or Scirocco is 90% of the fun for 50% of the cost,
but I never said that all my purchasing decisions made perfect sense.

Here is the car I really want:
http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc214/vt1992s10/100_0467.jpg.

Heh. Talk about something that rusts if you sneeze at it wrong. (not
that i can talk, I've got a Studebaker...)

nate

N8N aka Nate Nagel wrote:
On Apr 9, 10:03 pm, Tom Sherman
wrote:
N8N aka Nate Nagel wrote:



On Apr 9, 1:32 am, Tom Sherman
wrote:
N8N aka Nate Nagel wrote: On Apr 8, 1:35 pm, landotter wrote:
On Apr 8, 11:53 am, N8N wrote:
Would this be a good bike for just general recreational road riding?
If you ride on sunny days with smooth roads and it fits--you'll have
plenty of fun with it. I personally wouldn't want to own just a gee
whiz fast bike as my only bike--but if it fits you and your needs, go
for it. Have a good look at the frame and fork before buying. Look for
deep scratches and cracks. If it's "well used", walk away.
Well, I *do* own a 20 year old Porsche as my "real" car, if that gives
you any kind of idea as to what makes my ears wiggle I even put
snow tires on it in the winter, which no doubt gives the "purists"
apoplectic fits.
This is what a vintage Porsche would look like if you drove around here
for a few winters:
http://content.leenks.com/pics/2008/oldexotics/oldexotics-6.jpg.
Can't see your pic at work and it's probably just as well...
It is the rotting, er rusting corpse of a (early 1970's?) Porsche 911.

Full collection of "exotics" that have seen better days is he
http://www.leenks.com/gallery641.htm.

I'm deliberately not clicking on that link.

You are missing another 911 with shrubbery growing out of it, some nasty
E-Types, a filth covered Miura, a ratty Countach, some beat up
Aston-Martin DB-6's, tired and broken Ferraris, moldering
Mercedes-Benz's and other examples of neglect. Enjoy!

truth is, that since the mid-70s Porsche has used all galvanized steel
as well as adding that typical German paraffin undercoating, so
they're actually fairly rust resistant as far as car bodies go.
Actually surprisingly practical, if you can just get past the cost of
parts.
Well, all the suspension bits, brakes, etc. will still rust up.
Eventually, it will not be worth it to repair the vehicle, unless it is
something where the ID plate is worth more than the cost of a complete
rebuild (e.g. 250 GTO).

Not so much as you'd think. Most of the exposed parts of the car that
aren't part of the main body structure (suspension, engine, transaxle,
etc.) are all aluminum not steel; not that aluminum can't corrode, but
it's no big deal in practice.

I worry about suspension parts that have seen 20 years of road salt.

I've probably already passed the point where repair is not cost
effective, but until someone makes a new car that drives and handles
as well for a price I can afford, I will keep patching it up.

Of course a VW GTI or Scirocco is 90% of the fun for 50% of the cost,
but I never said that all my purchasing decisions made perfect sense.
Here is the car I really want:
http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc214/vt1992s10/100_0467.jpg.

Heh. Talk about something that rusts if you sneeze at it wrong. (not
that i can talk, I've got a Studebaker...)

Yes, but I like the statement a Datsun B-210 Honey Bee makes.

--
Tom Sherman - Holstein-Friesland Bovinia
The weather is here, wish you were beautiful

Tom Sherman wrote:
N8N aka Nate Nagel wrote:

On Apr 9, 10:03 pm, Tom Sherman
wrote:

N8N aka Nate Nagel wrote:



On Apr 9, 1:32 am, Tom Sherman
wrote:

N8N aka Nate Nagel wrote: On Apr 8, 1:35 pm, landotter
wrote:

On Apr 8, 11:53 am, N8N wrote:

Would this be a good bike for just general recreational road
riding?

If you ride on sunny days with smooth roads and it fits--you'll have
plenty of fun with it. I personally wouldn't want to own just a gee
whiz fast bike as my only bike--but if it fits you and your
needs, go
for it. Have a good look at the frame and fork before buying.
Look for
deep scratches and cracks. If it's "well used", walk away.

Well, I *do* own a 20 year old Porsche as my "real" car, if that
gives
you any kind of idea as to what makes my ears wiggle I even put
snow tires on it in the winter, which no doubt gives the "purists"
apoplectic fits.

This is what a vintage Porsche would look like if you drove around
here
for a few winters:
http://content.leenks.com/pics/2008/oldexotics/oldexotics-6.jpg.

Can't see your pic at work and it's probably just as well...

It is the rotting, er rusting corpse of a (early 1970's?) Porsche 911.

Full collection of "exotics" that have seen better days is he
http://www.leenks.com/gallery641.htm.


I'm deliberately not clicking on that link.

You are missing another 911 with shrubbery growing out of it, some nasty
E-Types, a filth covered Miura, a ratty Countach, some beat up
Aston-Martin DB-6's, tired and broken Ferraris, moldering
Mercedes-Benz's and other examples of neglect. Enjoy!


Miura? Aston Martin? ecch... some people...

nate

(weeping)

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