what is the blue/cyanic stuff sometimes found in bolt threads?

What is the blue/cyanic stuff sometimes found
in bolt threads?

And how do you get it clean?

I've found it is too deeply ingrained to do
with a wire brush. I managed with a "hooked
awl", but it was slow.

Threading die perhaps or will that destroy the
hole thing?

Or some chemical yet again?

--
underground experts united .... http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573
Emacs Gnus Blogomatic ......... http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573/blogomatic
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On Saturday, July 2, 2016 at 2:15:36 AM UTC-4, Emanuel Berg wrote:
What is the blue/cyanic stuff sometimes found
in bolt threads?

And how do you get it clean?

I've found it is too deeply ingrained to do
with a wire brush. I managed with a "hooked
awl", but it was slow.

Threading die perhaps or will that destroy the
hole thing?

Or some chemical yet again?

--
underground experts united .... http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573
Emacs Gnus Blogomatic ......... http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573/blogomatic
- so far: 56 Blogomatic articles -

Sigh. It's threadlock to stop the bolt from coming loose.

Cheers

Blue Loctite

http://www.lowes.com/pd/LOCTITE-Thre...tener/50083054

Sold by every auto parts store. And apparently the big hardware stores too.. Blue means its removable, you can unscrew the bolt with a wrench but the bolt will not unscrew by itself when in use. Red Loctite is permanent and you cannot remove the bolt. Most folks think Loctite is good in most situations. Most folks don't want to clean it off. I suppose alcohol or gasoline would remove it.


On Saturday, July 2, 2016 at 1:15:36 AM UTC-5, Emanuel Berg wrote:
What is the blue/cyanic stuff sometimes found
in bolt threads?

And how do you get it clean?

I've found it is too deeply ingrained to do
with a wire brush. I managed with a "hooked
awl", but it was slow.

Threading die perhaps or will that destroy the
hole thing?

Or some chemical yet again?

--
underground experts united .... http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573
Emacs Gnus Blogomatic ......... http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573/blogomatic
- so far: 56 Blogomatic articles -

For your reference, records indicate that
Emanuel Berg wrote:

What is the blue/cyanic stuff sometimes found
in bolt threads?

Likely a thread locker, to keep things from wiggling loose. Different
colors indicate different strengths.

And how do you get it clean?

It’s all basically a type of superglue, so anything that works to
dissolve an acrylic. Nail polish remover is the common solution,
I think.

--
"Also . . . I can kill you with my brain."
River Tam, Trash, Firefly

"
writes:

Sold by every auto parts store.
And apparently the big hardware stores too.
Blue means its removable, you can unscrew the
bolt with a wrench but the bolt will not
unscrew by itself when in use. Red Loctite is
permanent and you cannot remove the bolt.
Most folks think Loctite is good in most
situations. Most folks don't want to clean
it off.

Aha!

So it still works even when it fills the thread
gap because it is softer...

It must be strong in some sense tho because
often even for a long screw only three or four
laps have it!

Do you use it when you cannot have a stop nut
on the other side? Or is it still beneficial?

--
underground experts united .... http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573
Emacs Gnus Blogomatic ......... http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573/blogomatic
- so far: 56 Blogomatic articles -

On Sat, 02 Jul 2016 08:15:33 +0200, Emanuel Berg
wrote:

What is the blue/cyanic stuff sometimes found
in bolt threads?

Loctite Blue.

And how do you get it clean?

Superglue (cyanoacrylate) remover is currently based on nitromethane.
Acetone works just as well, but evaporates rather quickly and is
considered a safety hazard. Careful with both of these around your
bicycle as both will attack most paints and soft rubber parts.

I've found it is too deeply ingrained to do
with a wire brush. I managed with a "hooked
awl", but it was slow.

Incidentally, if it's stuck, hit the screw head with a soldering iron,
which should loosen the Loctite.

Threading die perhaps or will that destroy the
hole thing?

That depends on the screw. There are all kinds of contraptions that
will repair screw threads:
http://www.nes.co.il/158905/ThreadMate
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mrzFFgGw6k8
Much depends on the size of the screw. I think you'll find that
you'll get better answers if you describe your problem in NUMBERS.

Or some chemical yet again?

Mechanical is easier. Put the screw into an electric drill chuck and
scrape it clean with a wire brush as it rotates.

--
Jeff Liebermann
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

On 7/2/2016 1:27 PM, Emanuel Berg wrote:
"
writes:

Sold by every auto parts store.
And apparently the big hardware stores too.
Blue means its removable, you can unscrew the
bolt with a wrench but the bolt will not
unscrew by itself when in use. Red Loctite is
permanent and you cannot remove the bolt.
Most folks think Loctite is good in most
situations. Most folks don't want to clean
it off.

Aha!

So it still works even when it fills the thread
gap because it is softer...

It must be strong in some sense tho because
often even for a long screw only three or four
laps have it!

Do you use it when you cannot have a stop nut
on the other side? Or is it still beneficial?

It's always beneficial if the threaded fastener is subject to vibration.

One technical detail: Anaerobic thread lockers (Loctite) and these
thread lock patches don't work primarily by adhesive action. Their
action is more dependent on the fact that they stop lateral wiggling of
the fastener within the clearance between the male and female threads.

There's almost always clearance between a male thread and a female one.
If a fastener can vibrate or wiggle side to side within that clearance,
it tends to lose preload very quickly. For an analogy, if you place
(say) a book on a slightly slanted ramp, it will sit in place; but if
you vibrate it or move it side to side, it will slide down the ramp a
bit at a time. The screw thread is, functionally, a ramp on which the
same action happens.

Thread lockers take up that free space and prevent the lateral motion,
so they prevent the screw from loosening.


--
- Frank Krygowski

Frank Krygowski
writes:

There's almost always clearance between
a male thread and a female one. If a fastener
can vibrate or wiggle side to side within
that clearance, it tends to lose preload very
quickly. For an analogy, if you place (say)
a book on a slightly slanted ramp, it will
sit in place; but if you vibrate it or move
it side to side, it will slide down the ramp
a bit at a time. The screw thread is,
functionally, a ramp on which the same
action happens.

Thread lockers take up that free space and
prevent the lateral motion, so they prevent
the screw from loosening.

Understood!

Only: how do you know what parts are subject
to vibration?

If many parts are vibrating, which parts are
safety-critical? The handlebar?

You have a metaphor why star and split washers
work as well?

It consumes the vibration and balances it both
ways so the result is no movement?

Thanks to everyone else answering as well!

--
underground experts united .... http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573
Emacs Gnus Blogomatic ......... http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573/blogomatic
- so far: 56 Blogomatic articles -

On Sat, 2 Jul 2016 13:57:13 -0400, Frank Krygowski
wrote:

Thread lockers take up that free space and prevent the lateral motion,
so they prevent the screw from loosening.

Thanks for the explanation.

And now, a bit of major topic drift:

I fix quite a few laptops, where the small M2, M2.5, and M3 screws
holding the bottom of the case are secured with blue Loctite. I see
fairly large numbers of missing screws. A typical laptop might have
12 small screws on the bottom, with 4-6 missing. Same problem with
every brand. More use and vibration seems to make it worse. Even
when I reassemble the laptop with additional blue Loctite, and make
sure that the screws are snug, they fall out after a few months.
Oddly, some of the screws require about 6 rotations to remove, which I
find difficult to believe that they just "rattled" out. I couldn't
find any pattern by location, type of screw, heads, depth, or screw
finish quality.

Got any theories? I'm out of bad guesses.

We return you now to bicycling related topics...

The Difference Between Red, Blue, Green and Purple Threadlockers
http://www.us.henkel-adhesives-blog.com/post/All-About-Threadlockers/The-Difference-Between-Red-Blue-Green-and-Purple-Threadlockers/

Blue Threadlocker Basics
http://www.us.henkel-adhesives-blog.com/post/All-About-Threadlockers/Blue-Threadlocker-Basics/

How to Remove Red Threadlocker
http://www.us.henkel-adhesives-blog.com/post/All-About-Threadlockers/How-to-Remove-Red-Threadlocker/

--
Jeff Liebermann
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

On Sat, 2 Jul 2016 04:50:01 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote:

Blue Loctite

http://www.lowes.com/pd/LOCTITE-Thre...tener/50083054

snip. Red Loctite is permanent and you cannot remove the bolt. Most folks think Loctite is good in most situations. Most folks don't want to clean it off. I suppose alcohol or gasoline would remove it.

Red Loctite will soften at higher temperature, a heat gun should do
the trick.

Loctite is availble for differnet metals, Red and Blue are for metals
with iron in them.
Henkel has more application information on their web site.

Cheers