Spray paint recs?

Anyone have recommendations for rattle can jobs? I've used Krylon
primer/paint/clearcoat in the past for my killer mauve/sun yellow/
white fade lockup hybrid commuter, which worked well enough, ie: the
paint pretty much stayed on, and nobody has stolen it

Is there a primer that you've found to be more effective than others?

Priority-wise would be, I guess, a tie between durability and color
options.

Thanks!

Rusto is soft, pliable. Takes warmth, time for curing, resists bangs
and scrapes a harder more brittle paint chips from. Dull(er) finish is
tradeoff.
For a vehicle spray, Take a look at Summit Racing's spray paints or
Levine auto body, and off course NAPA.
Krylon, Valspar, are more in the appliance league.

Scott Gordo wrote:
Anyone have recommendations for rattle can jobs? I've used Krylon
primer/paint/clearcoat in the past for my killer mauve/sun yellow/
white fade lockup hybrid commuter, which worked well enough, ie: the
paint pretty much stayed on, and nobody has stolen it

Is there a primer that you've found to be more effective than others?

Priority-wise would be, I guess, a tie between durability and color
options.

Thanks!

Nothing wrong with Krylon but certainly stay within one
brand for primer and color.

Clean material well, use a good acid wash (follow
directions) and wetsand both between primer coats and before
color for best results.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

On Feb 21, 10:13*am, Scott Gordo wrote:
Anyone have recommendations for rattle can jobs? I've used Krylon
primer/paint/clearcoat in the past for my killer mauve/sun yellow/
white fade lockup hybrid commuter, which worked well enough, ie: the
paint pretty much stayed on, and nobody has stolen it

Is there a primer that you've found to be more effective than others?

Priority-wise would be, I guess, a tie between durability and color
options.

Thanks!

Hi.

I like Krylon primer and paint. When I did a Miele bike in a new paint
red-white-green scheme I used Krylon primer and paints. The trick for
a really good and durable finish is in the frame prep prior to
painting it. Istripped off all of the original paint, polished the
frame and then washed it with a solution of TSP followed by copious
rinsing with very hot water. The bike was painted about 10 years ago
and the paint is still holding up very well. Here's a link to that
repainted Miele.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/7383250...in/photostream

I'm very leery about mixing primers and paints of different
manufacturers.

Cheers

On Feb 21, 1:36*pm, AMuzi wrote:
Scott Gordo wrote:
Anyone have recommendations for rattle can jobs? I've used Krylon
primer/paint/clearcoat in the past for my killer mauve/sun yellow/
white fade lockup hybrid commuter, which worked well enough, ie: the
paint pretty much stayed on, and nobody has stolen it

Is there a primer that you've found to be more effective than others?

Priority-wise would be, I guess, a tie between durability and color
options.

Thanks!

Nothing wrong with Krylon but certainly stay within one
brand for primer and color.

Clean material well, use a good acid wash (follow
directions) and wetsand both between primer coats and before
color for best results.

--
Andrew Muzi
* www.yellowjersey.org/
* Open every day since 1 April, 1971

Thanks all.

Link to acid wash? When I googled I found jeans and pools. Doesn't
sound quite right....

Miele looks great for a rattlecan job.

One other thing: the chainstays 1/2 exposed chrome, and some tire rub
near the BB shows more chrome beneath the paint. Haven't gone to work
on the other tubes, but if the bike is fully chromed underneath, does
that change my options?

Scott Gordo wrote:
On Feb 21, 1:36 pm, AMuzi wrote:
Scott Gordo wrote:
Anyone have recommendations for rattle can jobs? I've used Krylon
primer/paint/clearcoat in the past for my killer mauve/sun yellow/
white fade lockup hybrid commuter, which worked well enough, ie: the
paint pretty much stayed on, and nobody has stolen it
Is there a primer that you've found to be more effective than others?
Priority-wise would be, I guess, a tie between durability and color
options.
Thanks!
Nothing wrong with Krylon but certainly stay within one
brand for primer and color.

Clean material well, use a good acid wash (follow
directions) and wetsand both between primer coats and before
color for best results.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

Thanks all.

Link to acid wash? When I googled I found jeans and pools. Doesn't
sound quite right....

Miele looks great for a rattlecan job.

One other thing: the chainstays 1/2 exposed chrome, and some tire rub
near the BB shows more chrome beneath the paint. Haven't gone to work
on the other tubes, but if the bike is fully chromed underneath, does
that change my options?

Here's a typical page on that process:
http://www.tachrev.com/JeffLilly/paint_metal.pdf

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

On Feb 22, 5:31*pm, Scott Gordo wrote:
On Feb 21, 1:36*pm, AMuzi wrote:









Scott Gordo wrote:
Anyone have recommendations for rattle can jobs? I've used Krylon
primer/paint/clearcoat in the past for my killer mauve/sun yellow/
white fade lockup hybrid commuter, which worked well enough, ie: the
paint pretty much stayed on, and nobody has stolen it

Is there a primer that you've found to be more effective than others?

Priority-wise would be, I guess, a tie between durability and color
options.

Thanks!

Nothing wrong with Krylon but certainly stay within one
brand for primer and color.

Clean material well, use a good acid wash (follow
directions) and wetsand both between primer coats and before
color for best results.

--
Andrew Muzi
* www.yellowjersey.org/
* Open every day since 1 April, 1971

Thanks all.

Link to acid wash? When I googled I found jeans and pools. Doesn't
sound quite right....

Miele looks great for a rattlecan job.

One other thing: the chainstays 1/2 exposed chrome, and some tire rub
near the BB shows more chrome beneath the paint. Haven't gone to work
on the other tubes, but if the bike is fully chromed underneath, does
that change my options?

With a steel frame I've used wet-n-dry followed by methylated
spirits. It needs at least two cleanings and any dust picked up in
the meantime can be brushed off or lifted with a tack cloth. Use
gloves to prevent oils from handling getting on the frame and hang the
frame from a single point so as to be able to turn the frame. Keep
close enough so the paint doesn't turn to dust, a peice of card is
suitable to test for the limitation of distance and always keep within
that.