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Valve stems, SLIME sealant, and valve positions...
I've got a Cypress Giant DX that had the "SLIME" logo on the side of the tires and the sealant pre-loaded into them when I bought it. Great idea, I thought at the time, although I've had nothing but trouble with the valve stem and core on the rear tire since then - multiple times had the valve stop working (either not opening to allow air, or not closing and deflating the tire). Both times, of course, if I get the valve core out I find it loaded with the sealant's fibers. Figured I couldn't be the only person to have this problem, so a Google search showed someone (back in 1996) complaining of the same thing. The advice he got was counter to what the shop had told me, regarding the valve position - I was told to put the valve at 12 o'clock and let it sit there for a while (to drain), but at least one poster told that Aussie fellow to put the valve at 5 or 7. Which is correct? Also, other than removing the tire from the wheel, is there any easy way to get that junk out if I don't want it? I do almost all my riding on paved trails and such, so I'm not really worried about flats. (Only time I've had them is from the valve sticking open.) Thoughts? -- Scott Thomas, http://www.cs.rose-hulman.edu/~thomass/ |
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#2
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On Wed, 13 Apr 2005 00:35:26 GMT, Scott Thomas
wrote: I've got a Cypress Giant DX that had the "SLIME" logo on the side of the tires and the sealant pre-loaded into them when I bought it. Great idea, I thought at the time, although I've had nothing but trouble with the valve stem and core on the rear tire since then - multiple times had the valve stop working (either not opening to allow air, or not closing and deflating the tire). Both times, of course, if I get the valve core out I find it loaded with the sealant's fibers. Figured I couldn't be the only person to have this problem, so a Google search showed someone (back in 1996) complaining of the same thing. The advice he got was counter to what the shop had told me, regarding the valve position - I was told to put the valve at 12 o'clock and let it sit there for a while (to drain), but at least one poster told that Aussie fellow to put the valve at 5 or 7. Which is correct? Also, other than removing the tire from the wheel, is there any easy way to get that junk out if I don't want it? I do almost all my riding on paved trails and such, so I'm not really worried about flats. (Only time I've had them is from the valve sticking open.) Thoughts? Dear Scott, The straight-up 12 o'clock position strikes me as being the worst possible approach. Any slime in the valve will never drain. Anything down to 3 or 9 o'clock suffers from the same problem--slime slithering down the inside of the tube will go into the valve and stay there. The 5 or 7 o'clock position (maybe 4 or 8 would be better) lets any slime in the valve drain, while any slime drizzling down the inside of the inner tube is unlikely to turn and go up into the valve. Straight down 6 o'clock is bad because there's puddle of slime right under the valve to be forced up by air pressure. If frequent pinhole flats aren't a problem, it's hard to see any advantage to Slime tubes. There's no easy way to get a few ounces of Slime out of the tube without removing the tire. If you do want to remove the stuff from the tube, remove the tube from the tire (not hard to do and well worth learning), take a pair of pliers and unscrew the far end of the valve (there are two flats to grip), leaving the hollow stem that the factory used to fill it up. Hold the open valve end under a sink faucet, fill it up, squish the diluted stuff out, rinse and repeat until the water comes out clear. Frankly, I expect that it would be easier to just remove the Slime tube and put in a $3 normal tube. Astonishingly, the lurid green gunk is supposed to be not only harmless, but actually edible: http://www.slime.com/qna9.html However, the fibers and other stuff might not be, so don't try to use it as a dessert topping, no matter how much propylene glycol is in your ice cream. Carl Fogel |
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5 0r 7 seems about right
but allow several minutes to pass before letting the air out. first time the air comes out will release slime but that expulsion becomes less over time taking the valve out is de riguer with slime tubes-fiber wraps around the channel cut into the valve needle and then jams the valve. and the pressure gauge will suffer and the pump head will jam but these minor hassles will get you back and get you back and... with an ongoing puncture. most of the problems clear up with cleaning, time (as in repeated air flow) and patience. try high pressure air flow from an electric pump |
#4
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On Wed, 13 Apr 2005 00:35:26 GMT, Scott Thomas
wrote: I've got a Cypress Giant DX that had the "SLIME" logo on the side of the tires and the sealant pre-loaded into them when I bought it. Great idea, I thought at the time, although I've had nothing but trouble with the valve stem and core on the rear tire since then - multiple times had the valve stop working (either not opening to allow air, or not closing and deflating the tire). Both times, of course, if I get the valve core out I find it loaded with the sealant's fibers. Yup. Figured I couldn't be the only person to have this problem, You certainly aren't. so a Google search showed someone (back in 1996) complaining of the same thing. The advice he got was counter to what the shop had told me, regarding the valve position - I was told to put the valve at 12 o'clock and let it sit there for a while (to drain), but at least one poster told that Aussie fellow to put the valve at 5 or 7. Which is correct? The one that works for *you*. In my limited experience, having the valve vertical at 12 position tends to ensure that some Slime and fibers will have drained into the valve stem, where they may or may not then be expelled by the incoming air stream...and will tend to foul the valve if all that's being done is a pressure check. At 5/7, the theory is that the junk will drain from the stem. From experience, however, I'll note that theory and practice in this case are, as usual, not identical. For the short period that I put up with a Slimed tube, I found that always breaking the seal on the valve by adding air with the compressor tended to keep the valve from getting fouled. I had to be careful to bleed pressure off *slowly*, however, or fibers still would creep in and produce a slow leak. Also, other than removing the tire from the wheel, is there any easy way to get that junk out if I don't want it? If the tires are tubeless, no. If the tires have tubes, take the tubes out and replace them with ones that have not been Slimed. You'll still have to remove the wheel from the bike, and partially dismount the tire, but you shouldn't have to completely remove it from the rim. I do almost all my riding on paved trails and such, so I'm not really worried about flats. (Only time I've had them is from the valve sticking open.) Thoughts? Your experience is not unusual. Flat frequency rates vary with local conditions, riding habits and equipment. Dealing with Slime's side effects can be more bothersome than fixing flats. For me, this has been the case most of the time. For many, the reverse is true. If I lived where puncture vine was a persistent menace, I'd probably have a higher opinion of Slime and a greater tolerance for its drawbacks. -- Typoes are a feature, not a bug. Some gardening required to reply via email. Words processed in a facility that contains nuts. |
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