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#111
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I am that out of date
On Sunday, April 25, 2021 at 8:07:14 AM UTC-7, wrote:
On Sunday, April 25, 2021 at 7:52:41 AM UTC-7, Frank Krygowski wrote: On 4/25/2021 10:17 AM, Tom Kunich wrote: On Saturday, April 24, 2021 at 7:46:20 AM UTC-7, Roger Merriman wrote: Tom Kunich wrote: On Thursday, April 22, 2021 at 8:59:48 AM UTC-7, AMuzi wrote: On 4/22/2021 10:36 AM, Frank Krygowski wrote: On 4/21/2021 10:33 PM, wrote: I somehow forgot about clipless pedals. They are a HUGE improvement. I started with Time Equipe road pedals back in the late 1980s, early 1990s. Same ones Lemond used. Interestingly, the guy who set our club's record for club mileage (11,000+ miles of club rides, not counting his individual rides) just got a new pair of shoes for riding. They're ordinary New Balance sneakers. He rides using toe clips. There are also the occasional barefoot marathon runner and US football kicker. They are outliers. One of our club riders mentioned that most falls on bicycles stems from people not getting their feet out of clips rapidly enough. So he reverted to flat pedals. Now he cannot keep up on any climbs. And people with training can get out of pedals just as fast as he can step off of a flat pedal since they are ready to clip out when the conditions warrant care. Can’t say I have found any performance difference at all, I used clipless for a few years on my first road bike, was fine, never struggled to clip in or out or had a clip less moment but I never loved them. Few years back bought a CX bike for hacking about the woods plus road and put some MTB flats on, and used my MTB flat shoes, ie pedals with pins in, plus shoes with soft tacky tread. In short with proper flats you can’t slide the shoe but have to lift to reposition, unlike the road flats which are frankly terrifying slippy. I’ve done 100+ miles on them, climbed up big mountains, tackled seriously steep climbs etc. I’ve seen opinions dressed as science with huge gains for clipless but proper stuff the gains is marginal, apparently. Which certainly echoes my experience. Interesting the pulling up, gain is very difficult to prove. Roger Merriman Yesterday, when the pedal stripped out of the crank, I pedaled a mile with on leg. Try that with flat pedals. Wow. How did the pedal strip out of the crank? I was just riding along and the pedal started rocking. I immediately turned around to see if I could make it back but 10 miles from home the pedal, threads and all simply pulled right out. Pedals, as you know, are "British threaded" so you only have to tighten them to "snug" so I tighten them in with an Allen Key to keep from overtightening them and pulling threads. I stopped using the large and heavy pedals wrench long ago except to pull a pedal off. But this is the first time I can remember a pedal stripping out of a crank. The only cause I can think of is that the thread diameter on the pedal was undersize and the top of the threads on the pedal were cut flat on top. Or you under-tightened the pedal, which is the most probable explanation. It's 30-40nm torque -- which is more than "snug," which is IMO about 12-15nm like Shimano crank bolts. -- Jay Beattie. |
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#112
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I am that out of date
On Sunday, April 25, 2021 at 1:06:28 PM UTC-7, jbeattie wrote:
On Sunday, April 25, 2021 at 8:07:14 AM UTC-7, wrote: On Sunday, April 25, 2021 at 7:52:41 AM UTC-7, Frank Krygowski wrote: On 4/25/2021 10:17 AM, Tom Kunich wrote: On Saturday, April 24, 2021 at 7:46:20 AM UTC-7, Roger Merriman wrote: Tom Kunich wrote: On Thursday, April 22, 2021 at 8:59:48 AM UTC-7, AMuzi wrote: On 4/22/2021 10:36 AM, Frank Krygowski wrote: On 4/21/2021 10:33 PM, wrote: I somehow forgot about clipless pedals. They are a HUGE improvement. I started with Time Equipe road pedals back in the late 1980s, early 1990s. Same ones Lemond used. Interestingly, the guy who set our club's record for club mileage (11,000+ miles of club rides, not counting his individual rides) just got a new pair of shoes for riding. They're ordinary New Balance sneakers. He rides using toe clips. There are also the occasional barefoot marathon runner and US football kicker. They are outliers. One of our club riders mentioned that most falls on bicycles stems from people not getting their feet out of clips rapidly enough. So he reverted to flat pedals. Now he cannot keep up on any climbs. And people with training can get out of pedals just as fast as he can step off of a flat pedal since they are ready to clip out when the conditions warrant care. Can’t say I have found any performance difference at all, I used clipless for a few years on my first road bike, was fine, never struggled to clip in or out or had a clip less moment but I never loved them. Few years back bought a CX bike for hacking about the woods plus road and put some MTB flats on, and used my MTB flat shoes, ie pedals with pins in, plus shoes with soft tacky tread. In short with proper flats you can’t slide the shoe but have to lift to reposition, unlike the road flats which are frankly terrifying slippy. I’ve done 100+ miles on them, climbed up big mountains, tackled seriously steep climbs etc. I’ve seen opinions dressed as science with huge gains for clipless but proper stuff the gains is marginal, apparently. Which certainly echoes my experience. Interesting the pulling up, gain is very difficult to prove. Roger Merriman Yesterday, when the pedal stripped out of the crank, I pedaled a mile with on leg. Try that with flat pedals. Wow. How did the pedal strip out of the crank? I was just riding along and the pedal started rocking. I immediately turned around to see if I could make it back but 10 miles from home the pedal, threads and all simply pulled right out. Pedals, as you know, are "British threaded" so you only have to tighten them to "snug" so I tighten them in with an Allen Key to keep from overtightening them and pulling threads. I stopped using the large and heavy pedals wrench long ago except to pull a pedal off. But this is the first time I can remember a pedal stripping out of a crank. The only cause I can think of is that the thread diameter on the pedal was undersize and the top of the threads on the pedal were cut flat on top. Or you under-tightened the pedal, which is the most probable explanation. It's 30-40nm torque -- which is more than "snug," which is IMO about 12-15nm like Shimano crank bolts. Jay, pedals are English threaded and under force they tighten. I took these pedals and cranks on two hard climbing rides so if they weren't tight enough before they were tight enough after. I have never had any problems with FSA cranks and Look pedals. Looking at the threads on the Rock Bros Keo substitute you can see that the threads are not badly made but I'm willing to admit that rather than the pedal it might just as well have been the material of the crank. I just measured the threaded area OD on the Rock Bros pedals and it is pretty regular 0.55" which is .0125 smaller than the 9/16 but it is the same measurement as Look pedals measured in the same manner. |
#113
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I am that out of date
On 4/25/2021 4:06 PM, jbeattie wrote:
On Sunday, April 25, 2021 at 8:07:14 AM UTC-7, wrote: On Sunday, April 25, 2021 at 7:52:41 AM UTC-7, Frank Krygowski wrote: On 4/25/2021 10:17 AM, Tom Kunich wrote: Yesterday, when the pedal stripped out of the crank, I pedaled a mile with on leg. Try that with flat pedals. Wow. How did the pedal strip out of the crank? I was just riding along and the pedal started rocking. I immediately turned around to see if I could make it back but 10 miles from home the pedal, threads and all simply pulled right out. Pedals, as you know, are "British threaded" so you only have to tighten them to "snug" so I tighten them in with an Allen Key to keep from overtightening them and pulling threads. I stopped using the large and heavy pedals wrench long ago except to pull a pedal off. But this is the first time I can remember a pedal stripping out of a crank. The only cause I can think of is that the thread diameter on the pedal was undersize and the top of the threads on the pedal were cut flat on top. Or you under-tightened the pedal, which is the most probable explanation. It's 30-40nm torque -- which is more than "snug," which is IMO about 12-15nm like Shimano crank bolts. Our Bikes Friday require a fair amount of disassembly to pack into their suitcases for airline travel. That includes removing the pedals from the cranks. The bikes came with a little wrench apparently CNC burned out of maybe 1/8" stainless steel. One end fits the headset, the other end fits the pedals, and it's about 6" long. I was initially skeptical about it. I've always used a much longer pedal wrench, but so far I've just leaned hard on the little wrench and we haven't experienced any pedal loosening. -- - Frank Krygowski |
#114
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I am that out of date
On Sunday, April 25, 2021 at 3:57:27 PM UTC-7, wrote:
On Sunday, April 25, 2021 at 1:06:28 PM UTC-7, jbeattie wrote: On Sunday, April 25, 2021 at 8:07:14 AM UTC-7, wrote: On Sunday, April 25, 2021 at 7:52:41 AM UTC-7, Frank Krygowski wrote: On 4/25/2021 10:17 AM, Tom Kunich wrote: On Saturday, April 24, 2021 at 7:46:20 AM UTC-7, Roger Merriman wrote: Tom Kunich wrote: On Thursday, April 22, 2021 at 8:59:48 AM UTC-7, AMuzi wrote: On 4/22/2021 10:36 AM, Frank Krygowski wrote: On 4/21/2021 10:33 PM, wrote: I somehow forgot about clipless pedals. They are a HUGE improvement. I started with Time Equipe road pedals back in the late 1980s, early 1990s. Same ones Lemond used. Interestingly, the guy who set our club's record for club mileage (11,000+ miles of club rides, not counting his individual rides) just got a new pair of shoes for riding. They're ordinary New Balance sneakers. He rides using toe clips. There are also the occasional barefoot marathon runner and US football kicker. They are outliers. One of our club riders mentioned that most falls on bicycles stems from people not getting their feet out of clips rapidly enough. So he reverted to flat pedals. Now he cannot keep up on any climbs. And people with training can get out of pedals just as fast as he can step off of a flat pedal since they are ready to clip out when the conditions warrant care. Can’t say I have found any performance difference at all, I used clipless for a few years on my first road bike, was fine, never struggled to clip in or out or had a clip less moment but I never loved them. Few years back bought a CX bike for hacking about the woods plus road and put some MTB flats on, and used my MTB flat shoes, ie pedals with pins in, plus shoes with soft tacky tread. In short with proper flats you can’t slide the shoe but have to lift to reposition, unlike the road flats which are frankly terrifying slippy. I’ve done 100+ miles on them, climbed up big mountains, tackled seriously steep climbs etc. I’ve seen opinions dressed as science with huge gains for clipless but proper stuff the gains is marginal, apparently. Which certainly echoes my experience. Interesting the pulling up, gain is very difficult to prove. Roger Merriman Yesterday, when the pedal stripped out of the crank, I pedaled a mile with on leg. Try that with flat pedals. Wow. How did the pedal strip out of the crank? I was just riding along and the pedal started rocking. I immediately turned around to see if I could make it back but 10 miles from home the pedal, threads and all simply pulled right out. Pedals, as you know, are "British threaded" so you only have to tighten them to "snug" so I tighten them in with an Allen Key to keep from overtightening them and pulling threads. I stopped using the large and heavy pedals wrench long ago except to pull a pedal off. But this is the first time I can remember a pedal stripping out of a crank. The only cause I can think of is that the thread diameter on the pedal was undersize and the top of the threads on the pedal were cut flat on top. Or you under-tightened the pedal, which is the most probable explanation. It's 30-40nm torque -- which is more than "snug," which is IMO about 12-15nm like Shimano crank bolts. Jay, pedals are English threaded and under force they tighten. I took these pedals and cranks on two hard climbing rides so if they weren't tight enough before they were tight enough after. I have never had any problems with FSA cranks and Look pedals. Looking at the threads on the Rock Bros Keo substitute you can see that the threads are not badly made but I'm willing to admit that rather than the pedal it might just as well have been the material of the crank. I just measured the threaded area OD on the Rock Bros pedals and it is pretty regular 0.55" which is .0125 smaller than the 9/16 but it is the same measurement as Look pedals measured in the same manner. Did you tighten the pedals to recommended torque? If not, it backed out because the pedals were under-torqued. If so, then you have bearing binding. The question now is if you have ruined the pedal threads and need to replace the crank. --Jay Beattie. |
#115
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I am that out of date
On Sun, 25 Apr 2021 11:42:55 -0700, sms
wrote: On 4/25/2021 10:23 AM, Jeff Liebermann wrote: On Sun, 25 Apr 2021 11:40:43 -0500, AMuzi wrote: Another thread nearby discusses exactly that in the context of clothing fashion. Clothing, bicycles, cars, image, etc. They're all part of the fashion culture and business. "Pay Enough for Anything and It Passes for Taste." — Sue Grafton A friend was having problems selling his house. He asked his realtor if he should lower his asking price. His realtor suggested the he raise the price instead. He did and it sold for more than asking price. The difference was that he was now selling to a different class of buyer, who had money and a very different set of requirements and expectations. Something about targeted marketing. Without this universal truth there would be no market for designer handbags, gaudy jewelry, or $6000 bicycles. Only $6,000? https://www.beautifullife.info/automotive-design/most-expensive-bicycles-in-the-world/ Winner of the conspicuous consumption in cycling award is the $1,000,0000 gold plated mountain bike. It's #1 at the bottom of the page. Oh-oh. Looks like the link to: https://www.thehouseofsolidgold.com goes to a bogus site starting with "Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet". The builder probably took the solid gold and ran. -- Jeff Liebermann PO Box 272 http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Ben Lomond CA 95005-0272 Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558 |
#116
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I am that out of date
On 4/25/2021 1:23 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Sun, 25 Apr 2021 11:40:43 -0500, AMuzi wrote: Another thread nearby discusses exactly that in the context of clothing fashion. Clothing, bicycles, cars, image, etc. They're all part of the fashion culture and business. One does not drive a car. One wears a car like a suit of cloths. Try being seen in a car that doesn't match your station in life. If I slob like me buys a high end car, I'll be labeled pretentious. Similarly, a wealthy person driving around in a rolling wreck will make people wonder if there is a financial problem. Same with bicycles. People don't ride bicycles. They wear them. As a minimum, the color scheme has to match their lifestyle and attitude. Red - Fast and furious. Black - Stealth and sneaky. Blue - Likes to gaze at the sky or water while riding. Forest green - Ecology fan. Dull green or camo - Military look. White - Blank slate and shopping for an image to adopt. Bianchi celeste - Like to make others vomit. Multicolor - Indecisive. Interesting! I ride three different blue bikes. My touring bike is poorly named "Anthracite" actually a very dark sparkly green (but it needs a respray). The (main) folding bike is black. The three speed is orange. But most of those colors came by accident - assuming there is such a thing as an accident in this world. We ordered a green tandem. Jim Bradford delivered a blue one. Seen any brown color bicycle frames? https://www.google.com/search?q=brown+color+bicycles+-saddle&tbm=isch There are a few, very few. Hah! My first "good" bike which was my recreation, racing, touring, commuting, utility bike was brown, again by accident. (I got it by trade.) It was sort of a root beer color. When I added some custom braze-on features and had it painted, it became blue. -- - Frank Krygowski |
#117
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I am that out of date
On Sun, 25 Apr 2021 14:49:14 -0500, AMuzi wrote:
Never thought much about it but you make a very good point. I painted a British ladies' three speed for my mother in 1974 'Hot Cocoa Brown' about this shade: https://www.sprouts.com/wp-content/u...ot-Cocoa-1.jpg She liked it but no one else did. Which was fine. p.s. IIRC, Brownshirts were more khaki than cocoa, yes? I don't know. That was before I was born. Also, all the videos are in black and white. The brown shirts were the SA: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sturmabteilung The official uniform of the SA was the brown shirt with a brown tie. The color came about because a large shipment of Lettow-shirts, originally intended for the German colonial troops in Germany's former East Africa colony,[2] was purchased in 1921 by Gerhard Roßbach for use by his Freikorps paramilitary unit. ... there were "large numbers of Communists and Social Democrats" and that "many of the storm troops were called 'beefsteaks' - brown outside and red within." Well, that ruins romantic notions of careful planning and color selection. 75 years and at least 2 generations after WWII, direct association of flat-brown with the 1930's SA troops by todays buyers is unlikely. However, the companies and institutions founded immediately after WWII certainly did associate the brown color with the brown shirts. Those that are still around today maintain the tradition of avoiding flat-brown anything even though they probably don't understand why. "These Are the Paint Colors Experts Say to Never Use in Your Home" https://bestlifeonline.com/worst-paint-colors/ "Sam Whittaker, home design expert and editor at The Golden, says you should never paint your home's exterior brown, which he says is a color that gives off an "extremely boring and dull vibe." Not only that, but Whittaker says that in the future, this will also lower your home's value and make it harder to sell the property." Oddly, the most popular color for the local mountain houses is a brown paint that resembles local redwood tree bark. It's more an attempt at camouflage than a political statement. Fortunately, bleaching by the sun and darkening by mold, mildew, and fungus, provide sufficient discoloration to avoid flat-brown. Here's my house about 20 years ago: http://www.learnbydestroying.com/jeffl/pics/home/BL-house1.jpg Yep, boring and dull looking. One of the neighbors painted their house glossy candy apple red. Then, they sold it. The first thing the new buyers did was paint it brown with forest green trim. -- Jeff Liebermann PO Box 272 http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Ben Lomond CA 95005-0272 Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558 |
#118
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I am that out of date
On 4/25/2021 9:22 PM, jbeattie wrote:
On Sunday, April 25, 2021 at 3:57:27 PM UTC-7, wrote: On Sunday, April 25, 2021 at 1:06:28 PM UTC-7, jbeattie wrote: On Sunday, April 25, 2021 at 8:07:14 AM UTC-7, wrote: On Sunday, April 25, 2021 at 7:52:41 AM UTC-7, Frank Krygowski wrote: On 4/25/2021 10:17 AM, Tom Kunich wrote: On Saturday, April 24, 2021 at 7:46:20 AM UTC-7, Roger Merriman wrote: Tom Kunich wrote: On Thursday, April 22, 2021 at 8:59:48 AM UTC-7, AMuzi wrote: On 4/22/2021 10:36 AM, Frank Krygowski wrote: On 4/21/2021 10:33 PM, wrote: I somehow forgot about clipless pedals. They are a HUGE improvement. I started with Time Equipe road pedals back in the late 1980s, early 1990s. Same ones Lemond used. Interestingly, the guy who set our club's record for club mileage (11,000+ miles of club rides, not counting his individual rides) just got a new pair of shoes for riding. They're ordinary New Balance sneakers. He rides using toe clips. There are also the occasional barefoot marathon runner and US football kicker. They are outliers. One of our club riders mentioned that most falls on bicycles stems from people not getting their feet out of clips rapidly enough. So he reverted to flat pedals. Now he cannot keep up on any climbs. And people with training can get out of pedals just as fast as he can step off of a flat pedal since they are ready to clip out when the conditions warrant care. Can’t say I have found any performance difference at all, I used clipless for a few years on my first road bike, was fine, never struggled to clip in or out or had a clip less moment but I never loved them. Few years back bought a CX bike for hacking about the woods plus road and put some MTB flats on, and used my MTB flat shoes, ie pedals with pins in, plus shoes with soft tacky tread. In short with proper flats you can’t slide the shoe but have to lift to reposition, unlike the road flats which are frankly terrifying slippy. I’ve done 100+ miles on them, climbed up big mountains, tackled seriously steep climbs etc. I’ve seen opinions dressed as science with huge gains for clipless but proper stuff the gains is marginal, apparently. Which certainly echoes my experience. Interesting the pulling up, gain is very difficult to prove. Roger Merriman Yesterday, when the pedal stripped out of the crank, I pedaled a mile with on leg. Try that with flat pedals. Wow. How did the pedal strip out of the crank? I was just riding along and the pedal started rocking. I immediately turned around to see if I could make it back but 10 miles from home the pedal, threads and all simply pulled right out. Pedals, as you know, are "British threaded" so you only have to tighten them to "snug" so I tighten them in with an Allen Key to keep from overtightening them and pulling threads. I stopped using the large and heavy pedals wrench long ago except to pull a pedal off. But this is the first time I can remember a pedal stripping out of a crank. The only cause I can think of is that the thread diameter on the pedal was undersize and the top of the threads on the pedal were cut flat on top. Or you under-tightened the pedal, which is the most probable explanation. It's 30-40nm torque -- which is more than "snug," which is IMO about 12-15nm like Shimano crank bolts. Jay, pedals are English threaded and under force they tighten. I took these pedals and cranks on two hard climbing rides so if they weren't tight enough before they were tight enough after. I have never had any problems with FSA cranks and Look pedals. Looking at the threads on the Rock Bros Keo substitute you can see that the threads are not badly made but I'm willing to admit that rather than the pedal it might just as well have been the material of the crank. I just measured the threaded area OD on the Rock Bros pedals and it is pretty regular 0.55" which is .0125 smaller than the 9/16 but it is the same measurement as Look pedals measured in the same manner. Did you tighten the pedals to recommended torque? If not, it backed out because the pedals were under-torqued. If so, then you have bearing binding. The question now is if you have ruined the pedal threads and need to replace the crank. Can't those be Helicoiled? -- - Frank Krygowski |
#119
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I am that out of date
On Sun, 25 Apr 2021 20:09:21 -0400, Frank Krygowski
wrote: Our Bikes Friday require a fair amount of disassembly to pack into their suitcases for airline travel. That includes removing the pedals from the cranks. Think about installing folding pedals: http://www.learnbydestroying.com/jeffl/pics/bicycles/Sunlite%2067302%20folding%20pedals/index.html Not the best, not very strong, quite cheap, and doesn't require tools to fold down. More of the same: https://www.google.com/search?q=folding+bicycle+pedals&tbm=isch There are also removable pedals: https://www.google.com/search?q=removable+bicycle+pedals&tbm=isch For example: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000017581531.html -- Jeff Liebermann PO Box 272 http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Ben Lomond CA 95005-0272 Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558 |
#120
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I am that out of date
On 4/25/2021 6:22 PM, jbeattie wrote:
On Sunday, April 25, 2021 at 3:57:27 PM UTC-7, wrote: On Sunday, April 25, 2021 at 1:06:28 PM UTC-7, jbeattie wrote: On Sunday, April 25, 2021 at 8:07:14 AM UTC-7, wrote: On Sunday, April 25, 2021 at 7:52:41 AM UTC-7, Frank Krygowski wrote: On 4/25/2021 10:17 AM, Tom Kunich wrote: On Saturday, April 24, 2021 at 7:46:20 AM UTC-7, Roger Merriman wrote: Tom Kunich wrote: On Thursday, April 22, 2021 at 8:59:48 AM UTC-7, AMuzi wrote: On 4/22/2021 10:36 AM, Frank Krygowski wrote: On 4/21/2021 10:33 PM, wrote: I somehow forgot about clipless pedals. They are a HUGE improvement. I started with Time Equipe road pedals back in the late 1980s, early 1990s. Same ones Lemond used. Interestingly, the guy who set our club's record for club mileage (11,000+ miles of club rides, not counting his individual rides) just got a new pair of shoes for riding. They're ordinary New Balance sneakers. He rides using toe clips. There are also the occasional barefoot marathon runner and US football kicker. They are outliers. One of our club riders mentioned that most falls on bicycles stems from people not getting their feet out of clips rapidly enough. So he reverted to flat pedals. Now he cannot keep up on any climbs. And people with training can get out of pedals just as fast as he can step off of a flat pedal since they are ready to clip out when the conditions warrant care. Can’t say I have found any performance difference at all, I used clipless for a few years on my first road bike, was fine, never struggled to clip in or out or had a clip less moment but I never loved them. Few years back bought a CX bike for hacking about the woods plus road and put some MTB flats on, and used my MTB flat shoes, ie pedals with pins in, plus shoes with soft tacky tread. In short with proper flats you can’t slide the shoe but have to lift to reposition, unlike the road flats which are frankly terrifying slippy. I’ve done 100+ miles on them, climbed up big mountains, tackled seriously steep climbs etc. I’ve seen opinions dressed as science with huge gains for clipless but proper stuff the gains is marginal, apparently. Which certainly echoes my experience. Interesting the pulling up, gain is very difficult to prove. Roger Merriman Yesterday, when the pedal stripped out of the crank, I pedaled a mile with on leg. Try that with flat pedals. Wow. How did the pedal strip out of the crank? I was just riding along and the pedal started rocking. I immediately turned around to see if I could make it back but 10 miles from home the pedal, threads and all simply pulled right out. Pedals, as you know, are "British threaded" so you only have to tighten them to "snug" so I tighten them in with an Allen Key to keep from overtightening them and pulling threads. I stopped using the large and heavy pedals wrench long ago except to pull a pedal off. But this is the first time I can remember a pedal stripping out of a crank. The only cause I can think of is that the thread diameter on the pedal was undersize and the top of the threads on the pedal were cut flat on top. Or you under-tightened the pedal, which is the most probable explanation. It's 30-40nm torque -- which is more than "snug," which is IMO about 12-15nm like Shimano crank bolts. Jay, pedals are English threaded and under force they tighten. I took these pedals and cranks on two hard climbing rides so if they weren't tight enough before they were tight enough after. I have never had any problems with FSA cranks and Look pedals. Looking at the threads on the Rock Bros Keo substitute you can see that the threads are not badly made but I'm willing to admit that rather than the pedal it might just as well have been the material of the crank. I just measured the threaded area OD on the Rock Bros pedals and it is pretty regular 0.55" which is .0125 smaller than the 9/16 but it is the same measurement as Look pedals measured in the same manner. Did you tighten the pedals to recommended torque? If not, it backed out because the pedals were under-torqued. If so, then you have bearing binding. The question now is if you have ruined the pedal threads and need to replace the crank. --Jay Beattie. You remind me of a fond bike-wrenching memory: In college I worked a few stints at a local shop, mostly assembling new bikes for the Christmas rush (a thing that used to happen in the bike biz, but does no longer, I'm told). One day a Prof from my school came in with his three-speed, maybe a Raleigh. I recognized him, though he didn't know me. His sadness was palpable as he held a detached pedal in his hand. "I think I broke it, is there anything you can do? Can it be repaired?" The steel crank threads were rough, maybe damaged by the pedal coming out, so you couldn't screw the pedal back in by hand. I ran a pedal tap through the crank arm, probably in from the back side; put a bit of oil on the pedal threads, in it went, and I tightened it thoroughly. I'm sure I checked that it was spinning freely. You would have thought I had parted the Red Sea. He was so delighted, and he made me feel like a wizard. I don't know what the boss charged him - I was just a temp wrench and prices were above my pay grade - but he came back after paying and stuffed a five dollar bill in my shirt pocket, which was a fair bit of money back then. Mark J. |
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