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#1
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Left crank nut won’t stay tight
My left crank nut when adequately torqued loosens within 3 miles. I suspect the crank taper may be worn large and likely needs ar replacing and will probably at least try another crank arm to see if i fixes the problem, but alternatively can a lockwasher avert thi loosening or will that create some unforeseen problem? Or should I be expecting a BB problem with the nut style BB-ar fastening -- meb |
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#2
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Left crank nut won’t stay tight
meb wrote:
My left crank nut when adequately torqued loosens within 3 miles. I suspect the crank taper may be worn large and likely needs arm replacing and will probably at least try another crank arm to see if it fixes the problem, but alternatively can a lockwasher avert this loosening or will that create some unforeseen problem? Or should I be expecting a BB problem with the nut style BB-arm fastening? It may be that the bore is worn and you're bottoming on the taper. You should be able to eyeball that. If the bore is sloppy, bottoming or not, you may be able to continue to use it if you shim with aluminum can stock. If it doesn't work, left cranks are cheap. |
#3
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Left crank nut won't stay tight
meb wrote: My left crank nut when adequately torqued loosens within 3 miles. I suspect the crank taper may be worn large and likely needs arm replacing and will probably at least try another crank arm to see if it fixes the problem, but alternatively can a lockwasher avert this loosening or will that create some unforeseen problem? Or should I be expecting a BB problem with the nut style BB-arm fastening? -- meb First time it loosened, you probably deformed the crank arm to the point where it will never stay tight. New crankarm, installed per factory instructions, and it will stay tight. |
#4
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Left crank nut won’t stay tight
meb wrote:
My left crank nut when adequately torqued loosens within 3 miles. I suspect the crank taper may be worn large and likely needs arm replacing and will probably at least try another crank arm to see if it fixes the problem, but alternatively can a lockwasher avert this loosening or will that create some unforeseen problem? Or should I be expecting a BB problem with the nut style BB-arm fastening? If you slip the arm off and look at the aperture from the spindle side, you'll see that the square opening is no longer square. It's even more obvious when you compare your new arm just before installation. Grease the taper, the threads, the fastener and torque to 50Kcm. It won't be a problem in the future. You cannot damage or change a hardened CrMo spindle with a soft aluminum arm so don't worry about the spindle or the bolt/nut. -- Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org Open every day since 1 April, 1971 |
#5
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Left crank nut won?t stay tight
Anonymous writes:
My left crank nut when adequately torqued loosens within 3 miles. I suspect the crank taper may be worn large and likely needs arm replacing and will probably at least try another crank arm to see if it fixes the problem, but alternatively can a lockwasher avert this loosening or will that create some unforeseen problem? Or should I be expecting a BB problem with the nut style BB-arm fastening? http://www.sheldonbrown.com/brandt/i...ng-cranks.html |
#6
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Left crank nut won’t stay tight
On Sun, 19 Jun 2005 20:53:43 +1000, meb
wrote: My left crank nut when adequately torqued loosens within 3 miles. What do you consider adequate? I suspect the crank taper may be worn large and likely needs arm replacing and will probably at least try another crank arm to see if it fixes the problem, but alternatively can a lockwasher avert this loosening or will that create some unforeseen problem? If the crank is loosening it's certainly toast. Or should I be expecting a BB problem with the nut style BB-arm fastening? No. jeverett3ATearthlinkDOTnet http://home.earthlink.net/~jeverett3 |
#7
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Left crank nut won’t stay tight
A Muzi Wrote: meb wrote: My left crank nut when adequately torqued loosens within 3 miles. I suspect the crank taper may be worn large and likely needs arm replacing and will probably at least try another crank arm to see i it fixes the problem, but alternatively can a lockwasher avert this loosening or will that create some unforeseen problem? Or should I be expecting a BB problem with the nut style BB-arm fastening? If you slip the arm off and look at the aperture from the spindle side, you'll see that the square opening is no longer square. It's even more obvious when you compare your new arm just before installation. Grease the taper, the threads, the fastener and torque to 50Kcm. It won't be a problem in the future. You cannot damage or change a hardened CrMo spindle with a soft aluminum arm so don't worry about the spindle or the bolt/nut. -- Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org Open every day since 1 April, 1971 Yep- a rhombus -- meb |
#8
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Left crank nut won’t stay tight
Peter Cole Wrote: meb wrote: My left crank nut when adequately torqued loosens within 3 miles. I suspect the crank taper may be worn large and likely needs arm replacing and will probably at least try another crank arm to see i it fixes the problem, but alternatively can a lockwasher avert this loosening or will that create some unforeseen problem? Or should I be expecting a BB problem with the nut style BB-arm fastening? It may be that the bore is worn and you're bottoming on the taper. You should be able to eyeball that. If the bore is sloppy, bottoming or not, you may be able to continu to use it if you shim with aluminum can stock. If it doesn't work, left cranks are cheap. Gave the shim a try. Would stay on about 6-8 miles before loosening few times, beu degenerated to coming loose every 1 1/2-2 miles. Trie coupling the spline idea with the lockwasher, but the arm within a mil went into the BB and the crank arm motion unscrewed the BB out one en of the shell. I'll replace it next month, I've depleted the 170mm left crank reserv supply, besides the roads I commute to work on after April's offic move are too rough for an aluminum road bike. A Noticable improvemen on a steel road bike today -- meb |
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