Spoke Prep - cheap replacement

For all the wheelbuilding experts:

I'm about to assemble Ult/Reflex clincher wheelset. In the past, I've used a
cheap replacement for spoke prep - candle wax - and wanted to get your
opinions. I figured the purpose of the prep was to:
1) ensure that the nipple would not loosen due to vibration,
2) ensure that the nipple would not seize completely over time,
3) provide some lubrication during the initial build-up.
I figured wax could accomplish all three so I used it.

The only problem is that the wheels that I've built in the past have only
seen light use and so the fact that they have not shown any problems is not
a conclusive determination of the wax's effectiveness. These wheels I'm
about to build will be for regular use (I hope) of 3-5000 miles/yr so don't
want to risk a poor result due to a few cents saved. Essentially, I rub the
spoke thread on a candle to fill the threads with wax. I guess you could
even melt the wax and dip but the method is unimportant. The build-up is
using the Bicycle Wheel by Jobst. Any thoughts on the candle wax idea?

Joshua

Don't fix what ain't broken. If you like how the wax works, stick with
it. A well built wheel shouldn't really need any prep, but it can't
hurt either. My favorite is linseed oil; really cheap and a little
tacky. Cheers.

Don't fix what ain't broken. If you like how the wax works, stick with
it. A well built wheel shouldn't really need any prep, but it can't
hurt either. My favorite is linseed oil; really cheap and a little
tacky. Cheers.

Someone writes:

Don't fix what ain't broken. If you like how the wax works, stick
with it. A well built wheel shouldn't really need any prep, but it
can't hurt either. My favorite is linseed oil; really cheap and a
little tacky. Cheers.

Yes, and don't forget to throw that pinch of salt over your shoulder.

Jobst Brandt

"Spoke prep" is a crutch for poor wheelbuilders. All you need is
lubricant: a drop of oil on the spoke threads and the nipple seat will
allow you to tension the wheel properly. Once the wheel has enough
tension, the nipple won't loosen.

I've built wheels this way for 15 years- and I haven't had a spoke
loosen or break in that time.

Jeff

On Tue, 7 Dec 2004 23:30:29 -0500, "Joshua Lee" wrote:

Essentially, I rub the
spoke thread on a candle to fill the threads with wax. I guess you could
even melt the wax and dip but the method is unimportant. The build-up is
using the Bicycle Wheel by Jobst. Any thoughts on the candle wax idea?

I'd think that candle wax is useless as a spoke locker and helps
little during the build for lubricating the threads on the spoke.

Candle wax contains stearic acid to make the candles hard and keep
them from melting in warm weather. The wax will chip off and not
flow. The lubrication value is bad. Canning wax would be better but
still not good. I believe that bees wax would be the best and does
get sticky.

Linseed oil has been used traditionally. It lubricates and, when dry.
it will be a very light adhesive.

If you candle wax built wheel is working well, leave it alone. You
don't need any spoke locker. I actually use oil on both the the
threads of the spoke and the outside of the nipple. My spokes don't
unthread themselves.

jlee- I'm about to assemble Ult/Reflex clincher wheelset. In the past, I've
used a
cheap replacement for spoke prep - candle wax - and wanted to get your
opinions. I figured the purpose of the prep was to:
1) ensure that the nipple would not loosen due to vibration,
2) ensure that the nipple would not seize completely over time,
3) provide some lubrication during the initial build-up.
I figured wax could accomplish all three so I used it.

I answer-Lube like oil and tension will keep the wheels happy, not corroded,
etc.

BUT I have used boiled lindseed oil since Mike Howard taught me how to build
wheels in 1985. Still do, on the spoke threads. Is it essential? Probably not
but this old dog is gonna use it. I use Mobil One on the nipp/rim interface.

Peter Chisholm
Vecchio's Bicicletteria
1833 Pearl St.
Boulder, CO, 80302
(303)440-3535
http://www.vecchios.com
"Ruote convenzionali costruite eccezionalmente bene"

Jobst- Yes, and don't forget to throw that pinch of salt over your shoulder.
BRBR

I answer-of course! and I don't build when there's a full moon either, do you?

Peter Chisholm
Vecchio's Bicicletteria
1833 Pearl St.
Boulder, CO, 80302
(303)440-3535
http://www.vecchios.com
"Ruote convenzionali costruite eccezionalmente bene"

I'd think that candle wax is useless as a spoke locker and helps
little during the build for lubricating the threads on the spoke.

Wax on the nipples is a great idea, but not for wheelbuilding.


"Paul Kopit" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 7 Dec 2004 23:30:29 -0500, "Joshua Lee"
wrote:

Essentially, I rub the
spoke thread on a candle to fill the threads with wax. I guess you
could
even melt the wax and dip but the method is unimportant. The
build-up is
using the Bicycle Wheel by Jobst. Any thoughts on the candle wax
idea?

I'd think that candle wax is useless as a spoke locker and helps
little during the build for lubricating the threads on the spoke.

Candle wax contains stearic acid to make the candles hard and keep
them from melting in warm weather. The wax will chip off and not
flow. The lubrication value is bad. Canning wax would be better
but
still not good. I believe that bees wax would be the best and does
get sticky.

Linseed oil has been used traditionally. It lubricates and, when
dry.
it will be a very light adhesive.

If you candle wax built wheel is working well, leave it alone. You
don't need any spoke locker. I actually use oil on both the the
threads of the spoke and the outside of the nipple. My spokes don't
unthread themselves.

In article , Joshua Lee wrote:
For all the wheelbuilding experts:
cheap replacement for spoke prep - candle wax - and wanted to get your
opinions. I figured the purpose of the prep was to:
1) ensure that the nipple would not loosen due to vibration,

Sufficient tension (especially in the rear wheel) does the same thing.

2) ensure that the nipple would not seize completely over time,

Brass nipples lubricated with oil do the same thing. Alloy nipples
treated the same way also don't seize when they see limited amounts
of water and salt (I don't ride those wheels in the winter and don't
know).

3) provide some lubrication during the initial build-up.

Oil does the same thing for both spoke threads and sockets.

Any thoughts on the candle wax idea?

3-in-1, motor oil, etc. all work great, are easier to apply, and
should have better lubricating qualities.
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