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#1
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Why do headsets phase me so?
I'm moving on slowly and surely learning bike maintenance but seem to have
developed a bit of a block around adjusting aheadsets! I think it stems (excuse the pun) from keenly fitting a stem some years ago, riding to the bike shop and being told that there was some movement in the headset. Somewhere along the line I also picked up the knowledge that a loose headset can result in an ovalised headtube. I've since adjusted my headset and got an 'OK' from the LBS so I know that I can do it but still feel really unsure of myself and keep imagining that I'm going to ovalise the headtube. I've done a lot of maintenance tasks, including BBs and reckon that, if I can get my headset phobia sorted, I'm pretty close to being able to build up my own bike (headset pressing aside). Any confidence building tips out there? Once no play is detectable at the lower race is the pre-load sufficient (I have the tendancy to err on the side of overtightening and be a bit heavy handed)? Also, how easy is it to ovalise a headtube, would a small amount of slack do it or would it have to be blindingly (and un-rideably) obvious that the headset was loose before damage would be done! I feel a bit of a numpty posting this but I thought I'd ask :-) (don't know the smiley for embarassed!). Cheers, PJay |
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#2
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Why do headsets phase me so?
PJay wrote: I've since adjusted my headset and got an 'OK' from the LBS so I know that I can do it but still feel really unsure of myself and keep imagining that I'm going to ovalise the headtube. In my experience, it is easy tell when it is too loose, because the fork will rattle when riding. You can also feel this by applying the front brake and rocking the bike forward and back. It feels secure, then it is ok... if not, tighten it. Getting it too tight seems a more likely problem to me. If you feel any resistance when turning the fork (off the ground), then it is too tight... but sometimes it is hard to tell with all those cables hanging off the front. |
#3
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Why do headsets phase me so?
PJay wrote:
snip Any confidence building tips out there? Based on your post, you know what you're doing. Get rid of the slack without creating binding. Stop tightening when you begin to feel resistance in the wrench. Check your work by bouncing the front end. Hollow rattling noise? Too loose. Next, grab the frame just behind the headtube and lift the front wheel off the ground. Bar bind while it swings to the side? Too tight. Otherwise, it's fine. Also, how easy is it to ovalise a headtube? Ovalizing a headtube requires considerable neglect, or exceptionally hard use, or both. Unless there's an interface problem between your current headset and frame, you don't have to worry about it. -Vee |
#4
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Why do headsets phase me so?
A classic sign of an over-tight ball bearing is a "lumpy" feel as the
bearing rotates. |
#5
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Why do headsets phase me so?
PJay wrote: I'm moving on slowly and surely learning bike maintenance but seem to have developed a bit of a block around adjusting aheadsets! I think it stems (excuse the pun) from keenly fitting a stem some years ago, riding to the bike shop and being told that there was some movement in the headset. Somewhere along the line I also picked up the knowledge that a loose headset can result in an ovalised headtube. I've since adjusted my headset and got an 'OK' from the LBS so I know that I can do it but still feel really unsure of myself and keep imagining that I'm going to ovalise the headtube. I've done a lot of maintenance tasks, including BBs and reckon that, if I can get my headset phobia sorted, I'm pretty close to being able to build up my own bike (headset pressing aside). Any confidence building tips out there? Once no play is detectable at the lower race is the pre-load sufficient (I have the tendancy to err on the side of overtightening and be a bit heavy handed)? Also, how easy is it to ovalise a headtube, would a small amount of slack do it or would it have to be blindingly (and un-rideably) obvious that the headset was loose before damage would be done! I usually tighten mine down pretty tight to begin with, just to get all the slack out and then loosen until there is just a little tension on the bolt. There is a lot of grey area here, as long as it's not rattling loose or binding tight you're ok. Seems to work! -Nate |
#6
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Why do headsets phase me so?
Paul Davis writes:
I'm moving on slowly and surely learning bike maintenance but seem to have developed a bit of a block around adjusting aheadsets! I think it stems (excuse the pun) from keenly fitting a stem some years ago, riding to the bike shop and being told that there was some movement in the headset. Somewhere along the line I also picked up the knowledge that a loose headset can result in an ovalized headtube. Not to worry. There is no way that head bearing adjustment can cause a head tube to become oval. That has got to be a super myth of bicycling. Just try to imagine what forces would cause that. I've since adjusted my headset and got an 'OK' from the LBS so I know that I can do it but still feel really unsure of myself and keep imagining that I'm going to ova Lise the headtube. I've done a lot of maintenance tasks, including BB's and reckon that, if I can get my headset phobia sorted, I'm pretty close to being able to build up my own bike (headset pressing aside). Any confidence building tips out there? Once no play is detectable at the lower race is the pre-load sufficient (I have the tendency to err on the side of overtightening and be a bit heavy handed)? Also, how easy is it to ovalize a headtube, would a small amount of slack do it or would it have to be blindingly (and un-ridably) obvious that the headset was loose before damage would be done! It's hard to damage a head bearing by adjustment, it being such a large diameter that it can take great force. The only reason it is so large is that it must fit around the steertube. Whether the bearing is too tight can be determined by holding the bicycle off the ground tilted forward just enough so the wheel tends to barely swing to the straight ahead position. At this point tilting the bicycle slightly from side-to-side should make the wheel steer smoothly likewise. Whether it is too loose is easy to tell on a road bicycle by bouncing the front end on the floor with a hard tire. If the bearing chatters, it's too loose. The spooky part is that if the head bearing is dimpled, it will have no correct adjustment because when in the dimple it will be looses and turned a few degrees to one side it will be to tight. http://www.sheldonbrown.com/brandt/i...-steering.html Jobst Brandt |
#7
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Why do headsets phase me so?
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#8
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Why do headsets phase me so?
Thanks for all the help, I guess that adjusting headsets isn't that tough,
it's more of a confidence thing for me - still knowing that it's hard to ovalise a headtube will help here. I was wondering whether there are any other tips for adjusting cartridge headset (I'm guessing it's a tad more difficult to bind these) as this is the type I have (Cane Creek S2). Sooner of later I guess I'm likely to need to replace the cartridges, I could go to a bike shop but I'm starting to like (and feel proud of) doing my own maintance. Hopefully if I can do it once without damaging anything I'll get over my fears (I did with bottom brackets!). Thanks again for helping me out, it's much appreciated. With Kind Regards PJay "PJay" wrote in message ... I'm moving on slowly and surely learning bike maintenance but seem to have developed a bit of a block around adjusting aheadsets! I think it stems (excuse the pun) from keenly fitting a stem some years ago, riding to the bike shop and being told that there was some movement in the headset. Somewhere along the line I also picked up the knowledge that a loose headset can result in an ovalised headtube. I've since adjusted my headset and got an 'OK' from the LBS so I know that I can do it but still feel really unsure of myself and keep imagining that I'm going to ovalise the headtube. I've done a lot of maintenance tasks, including BBs and reckon that, if I can get my headset phobia sorted, I'm pretty close to being able to build up my own bike (headset pressing aside). Any confidence building tips out there? Once no play is detectable at the lower race is the pre-load sufficient (I have the tendancy to err on the side of overtightening and be a bit heavy handed)? Also, how easy is it to ovalise a headtube, would a small amount of slack do it or would it have to be blindingly (and un-rideably) obvious that the headset was loose before damage would be done! I feel a bit of a numpty posting this but I thought I'd ask :-) (don't know the smiley for embarassed!). Cheers, PJay |
#9
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Why do headsets phase me so?
Vee Powell writes:
I'm moving on slowly and surely learning bike maintenance but seem to have developed a bit of a block around adjusting aheadsets! I think it stems (excuse the pun) from keenly fitting a stem some years ago, riding to the bike shop and being told that there was some movement in the headset. Somewhere along the line I also picked up the knowledge that a loose headset can result in an ovalized headtube. Not to worry. There is no way that head bearing adjustment can cause a head tube to become oval. That has got to be a super myth of bicycling. Just try to imagine what forces would cause that. Are you simply saying that the act of adjustment cannot damage the head tube, or are you also saying that riding with a loose headset won't hurt the frame? You can't ovalize your head tube by over-tightening the top-cap, of course. But am I wrong in thinking that riding with a loose headset allows the fork to bang around enough that the fork race and lower headset cup will eventually loosen? The image you project is like a fork with no bearing running free in a head tube. We are talking about ball bearings, ones that chatter and rattle when they have a few thousandths of an inch excess clearance. This cannot damage a head tube, the interface being a hardened steel bearing cup being loaded by a hardened steel inner race by way of bearing balls. From what the OP said, I gathered this was probably a quill stem type head bearing, the ones that are a pain to adjust. With a threadless steertube, the little socket head screw in the cap can't do any damage even if it was intended. These are easy to adjust and require no special tools and skills. Ideally, head bearing adjustment is done with no bars or wheel in place. In that mode, the free rotation can be felt by hand and by backing off from a little to tight is easy. The stem clamp then holds the adjustment in place. Jobst Brandt |
#10
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Why do headsets phase me so?
Sorry, I might not have been clear. I was talking about aheadsets
(threadless headsets). I appreciate that they're probably not too tough to pre-load correctly but was under the impression that if too loose they could ovalise the headtube (I'd assume from the steerer knocking around inside the headtube). I was, in part, wondering whether a loosely adjusted threadless headset capable of damaging a headtube would be obvious (audible knocking) or whether a slightly loose headset might also be capable of damaging the headtube. I'm almost certainly worrying too much but being rather new to maintenance do rather lack confidence, a situation not help when I believe that failiure to do something 100% correctly might lead to expensive damage. If I could feel comfortable that if I could not detect any play in the cups I would damage the frame I'd probably feel a bit more comfortable in tensioning a headset. Sorry, I'm a bit of a beginner. wrote in message ... Vee Powell writes: I'm moving on slowly and surely learning bike maintenance but seem to have developed a bit of a block around adjusting aheadsets! I think it stems (excuse the pun) from keenly fitting a stem some years ago, riding to the bike shop and being told that there was some movement in the headset. Somewhere along the line I also picked up the knowledge that a loose headset can result in an ovalized headtube. Not to worry. There is no way that head bearing adjustment can cause a head tube to become oval. That has got to be a super myth of bicycling. Just try to imagine what forces would cause that. Are you simply saying that the act of adjustment cannot damage the head tube, or are you also saying that riding with a loose headset won't hurt the frame? You can't ovalize your head tube by over-tightening the top-cap, of course. But am I wrong in thinking that riding with a loose headset allows the fork to bang around enough that the fork race and lower headset cup will eventually loosen? The image you project is like a fork with no bearing running free in a head tube. We are talking about ball bearings, ones that chatter and rattle when they have a few thousandths of an inch excess clearance. This cannot damage a head tube, the interface being a hardened steel bearing cup being loaded by a hardened steel inner race by way of bearing balls. From what the OP said, I gathered this was probably a quill stem type head bearing, the ones that are a pain to adjust. With a threadless steertube, the little socket head screw in the cap can't do any damage even if it was intended. These are easy to adjust and require no special tools and skills. Ideally, head bearing adjustment is done with no bars or wheel in place. In that mode, the free rotation can be felt by hand and by backing off from a little to tight is easy. The stem clamp then holds the adjustment in place. Jobst Brandt |
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