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Help Me Choose A Headlight
I'm wondering whether to get the Light & Motion ARC Li-Ion Ultra HID or the NiteRider Moab HID/LED. They're both the same price but the NiteRider burns over 50% longer at the same highest level of brightness (if I'm reading the specs right -- in which case I'm surprised Light & Motion haven't lowered their price at all; also, I'm not sure what it means for the NiteRider to be "HID/LED" [according to performancebike.com, anyway]).... TIA, folks! |
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#2
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Help Me Choose A Headlight
Prisoner at War wrote:
I'm wondering whether to get the Light & Motion ARC Li-Ion Ultra HID or the NiteRider Moab HID/LED. They're both the same price but the NiteRider burns over 50% longer at the same highest level of brightness (if I'm reading the specs right -- in which case I'm surprised Light & Motion haven't lowered their price at all; also, I'm not sure what it means for the NiteRider to be "HID/LED" [according to performancebike.com, anyway]).... I hope that means either HID or LED because those are two different worlds. HID is a High Intensity Discharge lamp that is bright. LED is a Light Emitting Diode that is pretty good too. The HID should be more expensive due to the high voltage drive electronics but either is more reliable than a hot filament going over the road. Bill Baka TIA, folks! |
#3
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Help Me Choose A Headlight
Prisoner at War wrote:
I'm wondering whether to get the Light & Motion ARC Li-Ion Ultra HID or the NiteRider Moab HID/LED. They're both the same price but the NiteRider burns over 50% longer at the same highest level of brightness (if I'm reading the specs right -- in which case I'm surprised Light & Motion haven't lowered their price at all; also, I'm not sure what it means for the NiteRider to be "HID/LED" [according to performancebike.com, anyway]).... If burn time is an issue get a hub dynamo unot, and then the burn time is as long as you keep moving. No fiascos with battery charging, no fiascos with forgetting your lights. Partner with the LED B&M D-Lumotec Oval Senso plus, switches the lamp on automagically when it starts getting gloomy so no moving parts on the switching to break either. Worth supplementing if you're doing a fast descent on an unlit road and don't want to slow down, but otherwise good for most stuff. The SON is the best of the hub dynamos, especially if you've a small front wheel. Pete. -- Peter Clinch Medical Physics IT Officer Tel 44 1382 660111 ext. 33637 Univ. of Dundee, Ninewells Hospital Fax 44 1382 640177 Dundee DD1 9SY Scotland UK net http://www.dundee.ac.uk/~pjclinch/ |
#4
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Help Me Choose A Headlight
On May 2, 3:31 am, Peter Clinch wrote:
If burn time is an issue get a hub dynamo unot, and then the burn time is as long as you keep moving. No fiascos with battery charging, no fiascos with forgetting your lights. Partner with the LED B&M D-Lumotec Oval Senso plus, switches the lamp on automagically when it starts getting gloomy so no moving parts on the switching to break either. Worth supplementing if you're doing a fast descent on an unlit road and don't want to slow down, but otherwise good for most stuff. The SON is the best of the hub dynamos, especially if you've a small front wheel. Pete. -- Peter Clinch Medical Physics IT Officer Tel 44 1382 660111 ext. 33637 Univ. of Dundee, Ninewells Hospital Fax 44 1382 640177 Dundee DD1 9SY Scotland UK net http://www.dundee.ac.uk/~pjclinch/ I was looking into just that when I was first considering my 'bent, but, to my way of thinking, the whole point of a light is its brightness, and them HID lights are the brightest out there, so it's HID for me! Besides, the NiteRider claims eight hours at 13.5 watts...even if it's really just five or six hours, that's still long enough for most real-world applications I can imagine! |
#5
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Help Me Choose A Headlight
On May 2, 2:42 am, Bill wrote:
I hope that means either HID or LED because those are two different worlds. HID is a High Intensity Discharge lamp that is bright. LED is a Light Emitting Diode that is pretty good too. The HID should be more expensive due to the high voltage drive electronics but either is more reliable than a hot filament going over the road. Bill Baka Nah, performancebike.com really has it listed as "HID/LED"...I'm chalking it up to a typo. Not sure what "a hot filament going over the road" means with respect to reliability, though.... |
#6
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Help Me Choose A Headlight
On May 2, 12:10 pm, Prisoner at War wrote:
I'm wondering whether to get the Light & Motion ARC Li-Ion Ultra HID or the NiteRider Moab HID/LED. They're both the same price but the NiteRider burns over 50% longer at the same highest level of brightness (if I'm reading the specs right -- in which case I'm surprised Light & Motion haven't lowered their price at all; also, I'm not sure what it means for the NiteRider to be "HID/LED" [according to performancebike.com, anyway]).... TIA, folks! Check out AYUP lights, www.ayup.com getting a very good rap in Australia. donga |
#7
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Help Me Choose A Headlight
In article . com,
Prisoner at War wrote: On May 2, 3:31 am, Peter Clinch wrote: If burn time is an issue get a hub dynamo unot, and then the burn time is as long as you keep moving. No fiascos with battery charging, no fiascos with forgetting your lights. Partner with the LED B&M D-Lumotec Oval Senso plus, switches the lamp on automagically when it starts getting gloomy so no moving parts on the switching to break either. Worth supplementing if you're doing a fast descent on an unlit road and don't want to slow down, but otherwise good for most stuff. The SON is the best of the hub dynamos, especially if you've a small front wheel. I was looking into just that when I was first considering my 'bent, but, to my way of thinking, the whole point of a light is its brightness, and them HID lights are the brightest out there, so it's HID for me! The point of a headlamp is not its brightness. The point of a headlamp is providing useful light so that you can see where you are going. That is as much a function of the optics of the light, not simply the power consumption of the bulb. BTW, that's all the wattage rating is- it is not a measure of light output. Bike lamp manufacturers have a tendency to keep the output of their lights a confusing secret by mixing watts, lumens, candlepower, etc. Besides, the NiteRider claims eight hours at 13.5 watts...even if it's really just five or six hours, that's still long enough for most real-world applications I can imagine! Not mine. YMMV. |
#8
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Help Me Choose A Headlight
Prisoner at War wrote:
On May 2, 3:31 am, Peter Clinch wrote: If burn time is an issue get a hub dynamo unot, and then the burn time is as long as you keep moving. No fiascos with battery charging, no fiascos with forgetting your lights. Partner with the LED B&M D-Lumotec Oval Senso plus, switches the lamp on automagically when it starts getting gloomy so no moving parts on the switching to break either. Worth supplementing if you're doing a fast descent on an unlit road and don't want to slow down, but otherwise good for most stuff. The SON is the best of the hub dynamos, especially if you've a small front wheel. Pete. -- Peter Clinch Medical Physics IT Officer Tel 44 1382 660111 ext. 33637 Univ. of Dundee, Ninewells Hospital Fax 44 1382 640177 Dundee DD1 9SY Scotland UK net http://www.dundee.ac.uk/~pjclinch/ I was looking into just that when I was first considering my 'bent, but, to my way of thinking, the whole point of a light is its brightness, and them HID lights are the brightest out there, so it's HID for me! Besides, the NiteRider claims eight hours at 13.5 watts...even if it's really just five or six hours, that's still long enough for most real-world applications I can imagine! I think HID lights are overkill for the road. Since they're primarily targeted for the off-road rider, the beam patterns are generally much too wide also. LED lights have been improving rapidly. I think they'll soon obsolete all other technologies, if they haven't already. |
#9
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Help Me Choose A Headlight
On May 2, 7:57 am, Prisoner at War wrote:
HID lights are the brightest out there, so it's HID for me! That's true. I have a Blow Torch. But you should know the lamps have durability issues and cost at least $85 to replace. You will want a spare. I bought a B&M bottle dynamo and Dymotec LED lamp for my street bike. It is an excellent setup. Bright and utterly dependable. Also (to my surprise) the bottle dynamo is not noticeable when it is engaged. |
#10
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Help Me Choose A Headlight
Will wrote:
I bought a B&M bottle dynamo and Dymotec LED lamp for my street bike. It is an excellent setup. Bright and utterly dependable. Also (to my surprise) the bottle dynamo is not noticeable when it is engaged. I have a B&M bottle on the freighter, and it works well. But if one is willing to spend money then a SON hub is just much, much, much better. Never having to worry about lights (including remembering to have them with you, and making sure the batteries are juiced) is what I really like. They are easily bright /enough/ for the road unless it's an unlit road downhill at high speed. I stopped using my brighter and more powerful rechargeables after I got the dynohub: just something extra to faff with that didn't need faffing with. Pete. -- Peter Clinch Medical Physics IT Officer Tel 44 1382 660111 ext. 33637 Univ. of Dundee, Ninewells Hospital Fax 44 1382 640177 Dundee DD1 9SY Scotland UK net http://www.dundee.ac.uk/~pjclinch/ |
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