Park Tool Glueless Patches

Went by a local shop today to pick up a new kit, since the cement in
mine was done for. All they had was a huge kit (size of an altoids
tin) and a very small Park Tool glueless setup. I told the shop owner
I wasn't fond of the glueless thing, since i'd heard of so many poor
experiences with them. He told me that the earlier ones had some
issues, and the cheap (aka Bell) ones were not so hot, but the newer
Park patches worked pretty good - he had not had any complaints or
problems. Anyone have any input on this? I figure it's better than
nothing, and it's really small, which is good, but I'm wondering if I
should trust the things or consider it a temporary holdover until I
get by a better stocked shop (planning to send my bike in for the
break-in tuneup before too long anyway) where I can pick up a small
kit that includes the vulcanizing solution. I considered just buying
the solution seperately, but I'm not sure how old the patches
themselves are, and the solution woudl cost 75% what a new small kit
would cost. I also considered superglue as an adhesive, but read a
few reviews that it dried too hard and and as a result didn't hold
well if allowed to fully cure to the tube before the tube formed to
the tire, and ran the risk of adhering to the tire if installed too
soon.

Any experience/input appreciated.

On 9/19/2008 11:26 AM wrote:

Went by a local shop today to pick up a new kit, since the cement in
mine was done for. All they had was a huge kit (size of an altoids
tin) and a very small Park Tool glueless setup. I told the shop owner
I wasn't fond of the glueless thing, since i'd heard of so many poor
experiences with them. He told me that the earlier ones had some
issues, and the cheap (aka Bell) ones were not so hot, but the newer
Park patches worked pretty good - he had not had any complaints or
problems. Anyone have any input on this?

[snip-o-roonie]

I've patched plenty of road tubes with the stick on square clear patches
branded Park and Aireon, and they work just fine, even when the hole is
right next to a ridge on the tube -- as they usually are. I find them
far more functional than a patch which requires glue when the tube of
glue has gone dry. YMMV.

--
Mike "Rocket J Squirrel"

On Fri, 19 Sep 2008 11:26:24 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote:

Went by a local shop today to pick up a new kit, since the cement in
mine was done for. All they had was a huge kit (size of an altoids
tin) and a very small Park Tool glueless setup. I told the shop owner
I wasn't fond of the glueless thing, since i'd heard of so many poor
experiences with them. He told me that the earlier ones had some
issues, and the cheap (aka Bell) ones were not so hot, but the newer
Park patches worked pretty good - he had not had any complaints or
problems. Anyone have any input on this?

[snip]

Dear Dan,

When I used my four spare tubes on a ride and met a fifth disaster, a
Park glueless patch worked fine.

Cheers,

Carl Fogel

risk of adhering to the tire if installed too
soon.

Any experience/input appreciated.
----------
My experience is that glueless patches work fine for mountain bike
tubes, not so fine with road bike tubes but a couple of them can plug a
hole in the tire if put on the inside.

wrote:

Went by a local shop today to pick up a new kit, since the
cement in mine was done for. All they had was a huge kit
(size of an altoids tin) and a very small Park Tool glueless
setup. I told the shop owner I wasn't fond of the glueless
thing, since i'd heard of so many poor experiences with them.
He told me that the earlier ones had some issues, and the
cheap (aka Bell) ones were not so hot, but the newer Park
patches worked pretty good - he had not had any complaints or
problems. Anyone have any input on this? I figure it's
better than nothing, and it's really small, which is good, but
I'm wondering if I should trust the things or consider it a
temporary holdover until I get by a better stocked shop
(planning to send my bike in for the break-in tuneup before
too long anyway) where I can pick up a small kit that includes
the vulcanizing solution. I considered just buying the
solution seperately, but I'm not sure how old the patches
themselves are, and the solution woudl cost 75% what a new
small kit would cost. I also considered superglue as an
adhesive, but read a few reviews that it dried too hard and
and as a result didn't hold well if allowed to fully cure to
the tube before the tube formed to the tire, and ran the risk
of adhering to the tire if installed too soon.

Any experience/input appreciated.

I've been using Park glueless patches for about 7 years, and
have not had a single problem with them. Some have lasted many
years before I eventually discarded the tube as a precaution.

When I bought my first pack, the LBS told me the trick was to
firmly squeeze the glueless patch to the tube and hold it that
way for a full minute when first applied. I don't actually
know whether that's important, but I've always done it.

John

On Sep 19, 3:44*pm, John Henderson wrote:
wrote:
Went by a local shop today to pick up a new kit, since the
cement in mine was done for. *All they had was a huge kit
(size of an altoids tin) and a very small Park Tool glueless
setup. *I told the shop owner I wasn't fond of the glueless
thing, since i'd heard of so many poor experiences with them.
He told me that the earlier ones had some issues, and the
cheap (aka Bell) ones were not so hot, but the newer Park
patches worked pretty good - he had not had any complaints or
problems. *Anyone have any input on this? *I figure it's
better than nothing, and it's really small, which is good, but
I'm wondering if I should trust the things or consider it a
temporary holdover until I get by a better stocked shop
(planning to send my bike in for the break-in tuneup before
too long anyway) where I can pick up a small kit that includes
the vulcanizing solution. *I considered just buying the
solution seperately, but I'm not sure how old the patches
themselves are, and the solution woudl cost 75% what a new
small kit would cost. *I also considered superglue as an
adhesive, but read a few reviews that it dried too hard and
and as a result didn't hold well if allowed to fully cure to
the tube before the tube formed to the tire, and ran the risk
of adhering to the tire if installed too soon.

Any experience/input appreciated.

I've been using Park glueless patches for about 7 years, and
have not had a single problem with them. *Some have lasted many
years before I eventually discarded the tube as a precaution.

When I bought my first pack, the LBS told me the trick was to
firmly squeeze the glueless patch to the tube and hold it that
way for a full minute when first applied. *I don't actually
know whether that's important, but I've always done it.

John- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Great to hear these experiences, as well as the advice on
application. I feel better about them now. THanks.

wrote:
Went by a local shop today to pick up a new kit, since the cement in
mine was done for. All they had was a huge kit (size of an altoids
tin) and a very small Park Tool glueless setup. I told the shop owner
I wasn't fond of the glueless thing, since i'd heard of so many poor
experiences with them. He told me that the earlier ones had some
issues, and the cheap (aka Bell) ones were not so hot, but the newer
Park patches worked pretty good - he had not had any complaints or
problems. Anyone have any input on this? I figure it's better than
nothing, and it's really small, which is good, but I'm wondering if I
should trust the things or consider it a temporary holdover until I
get by a better stocked shop (planning to send my bike in for the
break-in tuneup before too long anyway) where I can pick up a small
kit that includes the vulcanizing solution. I considered just buying
the solution seperately, but I'm not sure how old the patches
themselves are, and the solution woudl cost 75% what a new small kit
would cost. I also considered superglue as an adhesive, but read a
few reviews that it dried too hard and and as a result didn't hold
well if allowed to fully cure to the tube before the tube formed to
the tire, and ran the risk of adhering to the tire if installed too
soon.

Any experience/input appreciated.

Glueless patches are better than nothing, I used to carry them, but no
longer do as they're not as good as cemented patches. My first line of
defense is spare tubes, second is glued patches. If you take a bit of
care with both, I don't see a need for a third line of defense. Of
course they take up no room, so there's no harm in them, I just gave
them up after never having a need for several years.

Peter Cole wrote:

Went by a local shop today to pick up a new kit, since the cement
in mine was done for. All they had was a huge kit (size of an
altoids tin) and a very small Park Tool glueless setup. I told the
shop owner I wasn't fond of the glueless thing, since I'd heard of
so many poor experiences with them. He told me that the earlier
ones had some issues, and the cheap (aka Bell) ones were not so
hot, but the newer Park patches worked pretty good - he had not had
any complaints or problems. Anyone have any input on this? I
figure it's better than nothing, and it's really small, which is
good, but I'm wondering if I should trust the things or consider it
a temporary holdover until I get by a better stocked shop (planning
to send my bike in for the break-in tuneup before too long anyway)
where I can pick up a small kit that includes the vulcanizing
solution. I considered just buying the solution separately, but
I'm not sure how old the patches themselves are, and the solution
would cost 75% what a new small kit would cost. I also considered
super-glue as an adhesive, but read a few reviews that it dried too
hard and and as a result didn't hold well if allowed to fully cure
to the tube before the tube formed to the tire, and ran the risk of
adhering to the tire if installed too soon. Any experience/input
appreciated.

Whew! Let me catch my breath.

Glueless patches are better than nothing, I used to carry them, but
no longer do as they're not as good as cemented patches. My first
line of defense is spare tubes, second is glued patches. If you
take a bit of care with both, I don't see a need for a third line of
defense. Of course they take up no room, so there's no harm in
them, I just gave them up after never having a need for several
years.

If you can manually pull the patch off, then it isn't reliable, and
that's what glueless patches are. Just consider why we have these
patches at all. It is because glue tube manufacturers make leaky
crimps on the bottom of the tube. You wouldn't try to hold air
pressure with a crimp seal, so why do it with other vapors?

I am amazed how these folks stay in business while offering a reliably
faulty product. That is to say, they are not aware of the cause of
dried glue tubes but never question their product. They seem to pass
it off on user error in not securing the cap properly, never trying it
themselves how unopened tubes are dry.

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/brandt/patching.html

Jobst Brandt

wrote:
Peter Cole wrote:

Went by a local shop today to pick up a new kit, since the cement
in mine was done for. All they had was a huge kit (size of an
altoids tin) and a very small Park Tool glueless setup. I told the
shop owner I wasn't fond of the glueless thing, since I'd heard of
so many poor experiences with them. He told me that the earlier
ones had some issues, and the cheap (aka Bell) ones were not so
hot, but the newer Park patches worked pretty good - he had not had
any complaints or problems. Anyone have any input on this? I
figure it's better than nothing, and it's really small, which is
good, but I'm wondering if I should trust the things or consider it
a temporary holdover until I get by a better stocked shop (planning
to send my bike in for the break-in tuneup before too long anyway)
where I can pick up a small kit that includes the vulcanizing
solution. I considered just buying the solution separately, but
I'm not sure how old the patches themselves are, and the solution
would cost 75% what a new small kit would cost. I also considered
super-glue as an adhesive, but read a few reviews that it dried too
hard and and as a result didn't hold well if allowed to fully cure
to the tube before the tube formed to the tire, and ran the risk of
adhering to the tire if installed too soon. Any experience/input
appreciated.

Whew! Let me catch my breath.

Glueless patches are better than nothing, I used to carry them, but
no longer do as they're not as good as cemented patches. My first
line of defense is spare tubes, second is glued patches. If you
take a bit of care with both, I don't see a need for a third line of
defense. Of course they take up no room, so there's no harm in
them, I just gave them up after never having a need for several
years.

If you can manually pull the patch off, then it isn't reliable, and
that's what glueless patches are. Just consider why we have these
patches at all. It is because glue tube manufacturers make leaky
crimps on the bottom of the tube. You wouldn't try to hold air
pressure with a crimp seal, so why do it with other vapors?

I am amazed how these folks stay in business while offering a reliably
faulty product. That is to say, they are not aware of the cause of
dried glue tubes but never question their product. They seem to pass
it off on user error in not securing the cap properly, never trying it
themselves how unopened tubes are dry.

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/brandt/patching.html


jobst, your relentless self-promotion is sick. and your inability to
analyze a problem but still mouth off and extrapolate minutiae of
almost-fact into giant edifice of fantasy just spectacular.

here are some facts:

1. rubber cement [rema] uses trichloroetheylene as it solvent.

2. since #1. is highly volatile and can diffuse through other polymers,
its best container is metal.

3. metal crimps are most effective seals - vis their use in cans for
over a century.

given that rema are using the best kind of container, and an effective
sealing method for that kind of container, and given that the tube of
cement you buy is still liquid unsealed when you take it home from the
shop, even though it's been sitting on the shelf for a while, or the
shelf in ones garage for years, what do /you/ think is the most likely
exit point from that container, once the end cap seal is broken and a
plastic cap is screwed on???

"unopened dry"??? in all my decades of cycling and patching tubes, i've
never had an "unopened" tube be dry. not unless it's been rattling
around in the box under my saddle and has worn through at some pinpoint.
and thus we would have typical jobstian
failure-to-observe-the-facts-and-blame-someone-else-for-your-own-failings,
as per usual.

jobst, i don't understand what you personally get out of these kinds of
postings, but they poison the real-world knowledge pool with untruths
and bull****, and unjustly damage the reputations of perfectly competent
manufacturers, entirely without reason. seriously, if i were one that
you'd slandered in this way, i'd sue your dumb ass just to bankrupt you
and shut you up. seriously, it's not being dumb that's the problem with
you - it's your compulsion for broadcasting it.

jim beam wrote:
wrote:
Peter Cole wrote:

Went by a local shop today to pick up a new kit, since the cement
in mine was done for. All they had was a huge kit (size of an
altoids tin) and a very small Park Tool glueless setup. I told the
shop owner I wasn't fond of the glueless thing, since I'd heard of
so many poor experiences with them. He told me that the earlier
ones had some issues, and the cheap (aka Bell) ones were not so
hot, but the newer Park patches worked pretty good - he had not had
any complaints or problems. Anyone have any input on this? I
figure it's better than nothing, and it's really small, which is
good, but I'm wondering if I should trust the things or consider it
a temporary holdover until I get by a better stocked shop (planning
to send my bike in for the break-in tuneup before too long anyway)
where I can pick up a small kit that includes the vulcanizing
solution. I considered just buying the solution separately, but
I'm not sure how old the patches themselves are, and the solution
would cost 75% what a new small kit would cost. I also considered
super-glue as an adhesive, but read a few reviews that it dried too
hard and and as a result didn't hold well if allowed to fully cure
to the tube before the tube formed to the tire, and ran the risk of
adhering to the tire if installed too soon. Any experience/input
appreciated.

Whew! Let me catch my breath.

Glueless patches are better than nothing, I used to carry them, but
no longer do as they're not as good as cemented patches. My first
line of defense is spare tubes, second is glued patches. If you
take a bit of care with both, I don't see a need for a third line of
defense. Of course they take up no room, so there's no harm in
them, I just gave them up after never having a need for several
years.

If you can manually pull the patch off, then it isn't reliable, and
that's what glueless patches are. Just consider why we have these
patches at all. It is because glue tube manufacturers make leaky
crimps on the bottom of the tube. You wouldn't try to hold air
pressure with a crimp seal, so why do it with other vapors?

I am amazed how these folks stay in business while offering a reliably
faulty product. That is to say, they are not aware of the cause of
dried glue tubes but never question their product. They seem to pass
it off on user error in not securing the cap properly, never trying it
themselves how unopened tubes are dry.

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/brandt/patching.html


jobst, your relentless self-promotion is sick. and your inability to
analyze a problem but still mouth off and extrapolate minutiae of
almost-fact into giant edifice of fantasy just spectacular.

here are some facts:

1. rubber cement [rema] uses trichloroetheylene as it solvent.

2. since #1. is highly volatile and can diffuse through other polymers,
its best container is metal.

3. metal crimps are most effective seals - vis their use in cans for
over a century.

given that rema are using the best kind of container, and an effective
sealing method for that kind of container, and given that the tube of
cement you buy is still liquid unsealed when you take it home from the
shop, even though it's been sitting on the shelf for a while, or the
shelf in ones garage for years, what do /you/ think is the most likely
exit point from that container, once the end cap seal is broken and a
plastic cap is screwed on???

"unopened dry"??? in all my decades of cycling and patching tubes, i've
never had an "unopened" tube be dry. not unless it's been rattling
around in the box under my saddle and has worn through at some pinpoint.
and thus we would have typical jobstian
failure-to-observe-the-facts-and-blame-someone-else-for-your-own-failings,
as per usual.

jobst, i don't understand what you personally get out of these kinds of
postings, but they poison the real-world knowledge pool with untruths
and bull****, and unjustly damage the reputations of perfectly competent
manufacturers, entirely without reason. seriously, if i were one that
you'd slandered in this way, i'd sue your dumb ass just to bankrupt you
and shut you up. seriously, it's not being dumb that's the problem with
you - it's your compulsion for broadcasting it.



I for one have certainly have had unopened tubes turn out to be dry. Not
the big ones but the little ones.