Park Tool Glueless Patches

On Sep 20, 3:59*pm, wrote:
Henny Penny wrote:
Went by a local shop today to pick up a new kit, since the cement
in mine was done for. *All they had was a huge kit (size of an
altoids tin) and a very small Park Tool glueless setup. *I told the
shop owner I wasn't fond of the glueless thing, since I'd heard of
so many poor experiences with them. *He told me that the earlier
ones had some issues, and the cheap (aka Bell) ones were not so
hot, but the newer Park patches worked pretty good - he had not had
any complaints or problems. *Anyone have any input on this? *I
figure it's better than nothing, and it's really small, which is
good, but I'm wondering if I should trust the things or consider it
a temporary holdover until I get by a better stocked shop (planning
to send my bike in for the break-in tuneup before too long anyway)
where I can pick up a small kit that includes the vulcanizing
solution. *I considered just buying the solution separately, but
I'm not sure how old the patches themselves are, and the solution
would cost 75% what a new small kit would cost. *I also considered
super-glue as an adhesive, but read a few reviews that it dried too
hard and and as a result didn't hold well if allowed to fully cure
to the tube before the tube formed to the tire, and ran the risk of
adhering to the tire if installed too soon. *Any experience/input
appreciated.
Whew! Let me catch my breath.
Glueless patches are better than nothing, I used to carry them, but
no longer do as they're not as good as cemented patches. *My first
line of defense is spare tubes, second is glued patches. *If you
take a bit of care with both, I don't see a need for a third line of
defense. *Of course they take up no room, so there's no harm in
them, I just gave them up after never having a need for several
years.
If you can manually pull the patch off, then it isn't reliable, and
that's what glueless patches are. *Just consider why we have these
patches at all. *It is because glue tube manufacturers make leaky
crimps on the bottom of the tube. *You wouldn't try to hold air
pressure with a crimp seal, so why do it with other vapors?
I am amazed how these folks stay in business while offering a reliably
faulty product. *That is to say, they are not aware of the cause of
dried glue tubes but never question their product. *They seem to pass
it off on user error for not securing the cap properly, never trying it
themselves how unopened tubes are dry.

*http://www.sheldonbrown.com/brandt/patching.html





jobst, your relentless self-promotion is sick. *and your inability
to analyze a problem but still mouth off and extrapolate minutiae of
almost-fact into giant edifice of fantasy just spectacular.
here are some facts:
1. rubber cement [rema] uses trichloroetheylene as it solvent.
2. since #1. is highly volatile and can diffuse through other
polymers, its best container is metal.
3. metal crimps are most effective seals - vis their use in cans for
over a century.
given that rema are using the best kind of container, and an
effective sealing method for that kind of container, and given that
the tube of cement you buy is still liquid unsealed when you take it
home from the shop, even though it's been sitting on the shelf for a
while, or the shelf in ones garage for years, what do /you/ think is
the most likely exit point from that container, once the end cap
seal is broken and a plastic cap is screwed on???
"unopened dry"??? *in all my decades of cycling and patching tubes,
i've never had an "unopened" tube be dry. *not unless it's been
rattling around in the box under my saddle and has worn through at
some pinpoint. *and thus we would have typical jobstian
failure-to-observe-the-facts-and-blame-someone-else-for-your-own-failings,
as per usual.
jobst, i don't understand what you personally get out of these kinds
of postings, but they poison the real-world knowledge pool with
untruths and bull****, and unjustly damage the reputations of
perfectly competent manufacturers, entirely without reason.
seriously, if i were one that you'd slandered in this way, i'd sue
your dumb ass just to bankrupt you and shut you up. *seriously, it's
not being dumb that's the problem with you - it's your compulsion
for broadcasting it.
I for one have certainly have had unopened tubes turn out to be
dry. Not the big ones but the little ones.
In over thirty years of using a bicycle as my main form of travel this
has never happened to me either. Sounds more like you had a hole in the
tube or something. having said that I would always replace my PR kit
every few years anyway to be sure to be sure.
So, you mention "tubes" - plural. How many? Were they the same kind? The
same batch?

Maybe we need a survey to show how widespread dried out unopened tubes
of bicycle tire rubber cement have occurred with bicyclists who read
this newsgroup. *I, for one, have experienced them on glue tubes that
lay around for a year or so, mine and those of others who discovered
on piercing the metal membrane under the cap that there was no glue in
the tube other than a small amount of dry rubber on the inner walls.
This was independent of brand of glue except that they were in crimped
tubes.

Probably three or four times in that many decades. I have very
inconsistent experience with opened tubes -- some are practically
single use and others go on for quite a while. The only guaranty that
a tube will dry out entirely is if I really, really need it. -- Jay
Beattie.

On 9/21/2008 1:44 PM Jay Beattie wrote:

The only guaranty that
a tube will dry out entirely is if I really, really need it.

Of course.

--
Mike "Rocket J Squirrel"

Michael Press wrote:

Went by a local shop today to pick up a new kit, since the
cement in mine was done for. All they had was a huge kit
(size of an Altoids tin) and a very small Park Tool glueless
setup. I told the shop owner I wasn't fond of the glueless
thing, since I'd heard of so many poor experiences with them.
He told me that the earlier ones had some issues, and the
cheap (aka Bell) ones were not so hot, but the newer Park
patches worked pretty good - he had not had any complaints or
problems. Anyone have any input on this? I figure it's
better than nothing, and it's really small, which is good,
but I'm wondering if I should trust the things or consider it
a temporary holdover until I get by a better stocked shop
(planning to send my bike in for the break-in tuneup before
too long anyway) where I can pick up a small kit that
includes the vulcanizing solution. I considered just buying
the solution separately, but I'm not sure how old the patches
themselves are, and the solution would cost 75% what a new
small kit would cost. I also considered super-glue as an
adhesive, but read a few reviews that it dried too hard and
and as a result didn't hold well if allowed to fully cure to
the tube before the tube formed to the tire, and ran the risk
of adhering to the tire if installed too soon. Any
experience/input appreciated.

Whew! Let me catch my breath.

Glueless patches are better than nothing, I used to carry
them, but no longer do as they're not as good as cemented
patches. My first line of defense is spare tubes, second is
glued patches. If you take a bit of care with both, I don't
see a need for a third line of defense. Of course they take
up no room, so there's no harm in them, I just gave them up
after never having a need for several years.

If you can manually pull the patch off, then it isn't reliable,
and that's what glueless patches are. Just consider why we
have these patches at all. It is because glue tube
manufacturers make leaky crimps on the bottom of the tube. You
wouldn't try to hold air pressure with a crimp seal, so why do
it with other vapors?

I am amazed how these folks stay in business while offering a
reliably faulty product. That is to say, they are not aware of
the cause of dried glue tubes but never question their product.
They seem to pass it off on user error for not securing the cap
properly, never trying it themselves how unopened tubes are
dry.

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/brandt/patching.html

jobst, your relentless self-promotion is sick. and your
inability to analyze a problem but still mouth off and
extrapolate minutiae of almost-fact into giant edifice of
fantasy just spectacular.

here are some facts:

1. rubber cement [rema] uses trichloroetheylene as it solvent.

2. since #1. is highly volatile and can diffuse through other
polymers, its best container is metal.

3. metal crimps are most effective seals - vis their use in cans
for over a century.

given that rema are using the best kind of container, and an
effective sealing method for that kind of container, and given
that the tube of cement you buy is still liquid unsealed when
you take it home from the shop, even though it's been sitting on
the shelf for a while, or the shelf in ones garage for years,
what do /you/ think is the most likely exit point from that
container, once the end cap seal is broken and a plastic cap is
screwed on???

"unopened dry"??? in all my decades of cycling and patching
tubes, i've never had an "unopened" tube be dry. not unless
it's been rattling around in the box under my saddle and has
worn through at some pinpoint. and thus we would have typical
jobstian
failure-to-observe-the-facts-and-blame-someone-else-for-your-own-failings,
as per usual.

jobst, i don't understand what you personally get out of these
kinds of postings, but they poison the real-world knowledge pool
with untruths and bull****, and unjustly damage the reputations
of perfectly competent manufacturers, entirely without reason.
seriously, if i were one that you'd slandered in this way, i'd
sue your dumb ass just to bankrupt you and shut you up.
seriously, it's not being dumb that's the problem with you -
it's your compulsion for broadcasting it.

I for one have certainly have had unopened tubes turn out to be
dry. Not the big ones but the little ones.

In over thirty years of using a bicycle as my main form of travel
this has never happened to me either. Sounds more like you had a
hole in the tube or something. Having said that I would always
replace my PR kit every few years anyway to be sure to be sure.

So, you mention "tubes" - plural. How many? Were they the same
kind? The same batch?

Maybe we need a survey to show how widespread dried out unopened
tubes of bicycle tire rubber cement have occurred with bicyclists
who read this newsgroup. I, for one, have experienced them on glue
tubes that lay around for a year or so, mine and those of others
who discovered on piercing the metal membrane under the cap that
there was no glue in the tube other than a small amount of dry
rubber on the inner walls. This was independent of brand of glue
except that they were in crimped tubes.

Solution is to open the tube at the point of sale.

That does no good because solvent evaporation and leakage is
continuous. I am sure you can do better with weighing the glue tubes
at the store and taking the heaviest on of that size. That will not
necessarily protect you from drying out while in your possession.

I note that wine connoisseurs store wine bottles with the cork
submerged so it won't dry out. With glue tubes stored, cap end up,
the crimp will be covered with liquid glue that has a many times
greater viscosity than evaporated solvent (gas). This could prevent
drying out and is cost free. This may be why some tubes of glue have
survived over time... because their crimp was below fluid level.

Jobst Brandt

wrote:
Michael Press wrote:

Went by a local shop today to pick up a new kit, since the
cement in mine was done for. All they had was a huge kit
(size of an Altoids tin) and a very small Park Tool glueless
setup. I told the shop owner I wasn't fond of the glueless
thing, since I'd heard of so many poor experiences with them.
He told me that the earlier ones had some issues, and the
cheap (aka Bell) ones were not so hot, but the newer Park
patches worked pretty good - he had not had any complaints or
problems. Anyone have any input on this? I figure it's
better than nothing, and it's really small, which is good,
but I'm wondering if I should trust the things or consider it
a temporary holdover until I get by a better stocked shop
(planning to send my bike in for the break-in tuneup before
too long anyway) where I can pick up a small kit that
includes the vulcanizing solution. I considered just buying
the solution separately, but I'm not sure how old the patches
themselves are, and the solution would cost 75% what a new
small kit would cost. I also considered super-glue as an
adhesive, but read a few reviews that it dried too hard and
and as a result didn't hold well if allowed to fully cure to
the tube before the tube formed to the tire, and ran the risk
of adhering to the tire if installed too soon. Any
experience/input appreciated.

Whew! Let me catch my breath.

Glueless patches are better than nothing, I used to carry
them, but no longer do as they're not as good as cemented
patches. My first line of defense is spare tubes, second is
glued patches. If you take a bit of care with both, I don't
see a need for a third line of defense. Of course they take
up no room, so there's no harm in them, I just gave them up
after never having a need for several years.

If you can manually pull the patch off, then it isn't reliable,
and that's what glueless patches are. Just consider why we
have these patches at all. It is because glue tube
manufacturers make leaky crimps on the bottom of the tube. You
wouldn't try to hold air pressure with a crimp seal, so why do
it with other vapors?

I am amazed how these folks stay in business while offering a
reliably faulty product. That is to say, they are not aware of
the cause of dried glue tubes but never question their product.
They seem to pass it off on user error for not securing the cap
properly, never trying it themselves how unopened tubes are
dry.

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/brandt/patching.html

jobst, your relentless self-promotion is sick. and your
inability to analyze a problem but still mouth off and
extrapolate minutiae of almost-fact into giant edifice of
fantasy just spectacular.

here are some facts:

1. rubber cement [rema] uses trichloroetheylene as it solvent.

2. since #1. is highly volatile and can diffuse through other
polymers, its best container is metal.

3. metal crimps are most effective seals - vis their use in cans
for over a century.

given that rema are using the best kind of container, and an
effective sealing method for that kind of container, and given
that the tube of cement you buy is still liquid unsealed when
you take it home from the shop, even though it's been sitting on
the shelf for a while, or the shelf in ones garage for years,
what do /you/ think is the most likely exit point from that
container, once the end cap seal is broken and a plastic cap is
screwed on???

"unopened dry"??? in all my decades of cycling and patching
tubes, i've never had an "unopened" tube be dry. not unless
it's been rattling around in the box under my saddle and has
worn through at some pinpoint. and thus we would have typical
jobstian
failure-to-observe-the-facts-and-blame-someone-else-for-your-own-failings,
as per usual.

jobst, i don't understand what you personally get out of these
kinds of postings, but they poison the real-world knowledge pool
with untruths and bull****, and unjustly damage the reputations
of perfectly competent manufacturers, entirely without reason.
seriously, if i were one that you'd slandered in this way, i'd
sue your dumb ass just to bankrupt you and shut you up.
seriously, it's not being dumb that's the problem with you -
it's your compulsion for broadcasting it.

I for one have certainly have had unopened tubes turn out to be
dry. Not the big ones but the little ones.

In over thirty years of using a bicycle as my main form of travel
this has never happened to me either. Sounds more like you had a
hole in the tube or something. Having said that I would always
replace my PR kit every few years anyway to be sure to be sure.

So, you mention "tubes" - plural. How many? Were they the same
kind? The same batch?

Maybe we need a survey to show how widespread dried out unopened
tubes of bicycle tire rubber cement have occurred with bicyclists
who read this newsgroup. I, for one, have experienced them on glue
tubes that lay around for a year or so, mine and those of others
who discovered on piercing the metal membrane under the cap that
there was no glue in the tube other than a small amount of dry
rubber on the inner walls. This was independent of brand of glue
except that they were in crimped tubes.

Solution is to open the tube at the point of sale.

That does no good because solvent evaporation and leakage is
continuous. I am sure you can do better with weighing the glue tubes
at the store and taking the heaviest on of that size. That will not
necessarily protect you from drying out while in your possession.

I note that wine connoisseurs store wine bottles with the cork
submerged so it won't dry out. With glue tubes stored, cap end up,
the crimp will be covered with liquid glue that has a many times
greater viscosity than evaporated solvent (gas). This could prevent
drying out and is cost free.

er, no jobst, that doesn't work. the principle of diffusion is taught
in high school - how did you miss it?


This may be why some tubes of glue have
survived over time... because their crimp was below fluid level.

crimps are typically excellent seals. unopened tubes of glue last
indefinitely in storage. tubes of glue do /not/ last when worn through
at pinpoints in your saddle bag. use a proper magnifier to examine your
next dry tube rather than merely post your underinformed and
unresearched speculation as fact.

potential solution: wrap the tube in duct tape. or slide it inside a
length of old inner tube. provides more exterior wear resistance than
thin aluminum.

On 9/21/2008 6:53 PM wrote:

Michael Press wrote:

Went by a local shop today to pick up a new kit, since the
cement in mine was done for. All they had was a huge kit
(size of an Altoids tin) and a very small Park Tool glueless
setup. I told the shop owner I wasn't fond of the glueless
thing, since I'd heard of so many poor experiences with them.
He told me that the earlier ones had some issues, and the
cheap (aka Bell) ones were not so hot, but the newer Park
patches worked pretty good - he had not had any complaints or
problems. Anyone have any input on this? I figure it's
better than nothing, and it's really small, which is good,
but I'm wondering if I should trust the things or consider it
a temporary holdover until I get by a better stocked shop
(planning to send my bike in for the break-in tuneup before
too long anyway) where I can pick up a small kit that
includes the vulcanizing solution. I considered just buying
the solution separately, but I'm not sure how old the patches
themselves are, and the solution would cost 75% what a new
small kit would cost. I also considered super-glue as an
adhesive, but read a few reviews that it dried too hard and
and as a result didn't hold well if allowed to fully cure to
the tube before the tube formed to the tire, and ran the risk
of adhering to the tire if installed too soon. Any
experience/input appreciated.

Whew! Let me catch my breath.

Glueless patches are better than nothing, I used to carry
them, but no longer do as they're not as good as cemented
patches. My first line of defense is spare tubes, second is
glued patches. If you take a bit of care with both, I don't
see a need for a third line of defense. Of course they take
up no room, so there's no harm in them, I just gave them up
after never having a need for several years.

If you can manually pull the patch off, then it isn't reliable,
and that's what glueless patches are. Just consider why we
have these patches at all. It is because glue tube
manufacturers make leaky crimps on the bottom of the tube. You
wouldn't try to hold air pressure with a crimp seal, so why do
it with other vapors?

I am amazed how these folks stay in business while offering a
reliably faulty product. That is to say, they are not aware of
the cause of dried glue tubes but never question their product.
They seem to pass it off on user error for not securing the cap
properly, never trying it themselves how unopened tubes are
dry.

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/brandt/patching.html

jobst, your relentless self-promotion is sick. and your
inability to analyze a problem but still mouth off and
extrapolate minutiae of almost-fact into giant edifice of
fantasy just spectacular.

here are some facts:

1. rubber cement [rema] uses trichloroetheylene as it solvent.

2. since #1. is highly volatile and can diffuse through other
polymers, its best container is metal.

3. metal crimps are most effective seals - vis their use in cans
for over a century.

given that rema are using the best kind of container, and an
effective sealing method for that kind of container, and given
that the tube of cement you buy is still liquid unsealed when
you take it home from the shop, even though it's been sitting on
the shelf for a while, or the shelf in ones garage for years,
what do /you/ think is the most likely exit point from that
container, once the end cap seal is broken and a plastic cap is
screwed on???

"unopened dry"??? in all my decades of cycling and patching
tubes, i've never had an "unopened" tube be dry. not unless
it's been rattling around in the box under my saddle and has
worn through at some pinpoint. and thus we would have typical
jobstian
failure-to-observe-the-facts-and-blame-someone-else-for-your-own-failings,
as per usual.

jobst, i don't understand what you personally get out of these
kinds of postings, but they poison the real-world knowledge pool
with untruths and bull****, and unjustly damage the reputations
of perfectly competent manufacturers, entirely without reason.
seriously, if i were one that you'd slandered in this way, i'd
sue your dumb ass just to bankrupt you and shut you up.
seriously, it's not being dumb that's the problem with you -
it's your compulsion for broadcasting it.

I for one have certainly have had unopened tubes turn out to be
dry. Not the big ones but the little ones.

In over thirty years of using a bicycle as my main form of travel
this has never happened to me either. Sounds more like you had a
hole in the tube or something. Having said that I would always
replace my PR kit every few years anyway to be sure to be sure.

So, you mention "tubes" - plural. How many? Were they the same
kind? The same batch?

Maybe we need a survey to show how widespread dried out unopened
tubes of bicycle tire rubber cement have occurred with bicyclists
who read this newsgroup. I, for one, have experienced them on glue
tubes that lay around for a year or so, mine and those of others
who discovered on piercing the metal membrane under the cap that
there was no glue in the tube other than a small amount of dry
rubber on the inner walls. This was independent of brand of glue
except that they were in crimped tubes.

Solution is to open the tube at the point of sale.

That does no good because solvent evaporation and leakage is
continuous. I am sure you can do better with weighing the glue tubes
at the store and taking the heaviest on of that size. That will not
necessarily protect you from drying out while in your possession.

I note that wine connoisseurs store wine bottles with the cork
submerged so it won't dry out. With glue tubes stored, cap end up,
the crimp will be covered with liquid glue that has a many times
greater viscosity than evaporated solvent (gas). This could prevent
drying out and is cost free. This may be why some tubes of glue have
survived over time... because their crimp was below fluid level.

Jobst Brandt

Tiny vertical glue tube racks installed into seat bags. There's big money
to be made.

--
Mike "Rocket J Squirrel"

On Sep 20, 9:46*am, wrote:
Peter Cole wrote:
Went by a local shop today to pick up a new kit, since the cement
in mine was done for. *All they had was a huge kit (size of an
altoids tin) and a very small Park Tool glueless setup. *I told the
shop owner I wasn't fond of the glueless thing, since I'd heard of
so many poor experiences with them. *He told me that the earlier
ones had some issues, and the cheap (aka Bell) ones were not so
hot, but the newer Park patches worked pretty good - he had not had
any complaints or problems. *Anyone have any input on this? *I
figure it's better than nothing, and it's really small, which is
good, but I'm wondering if I should trust the things or consider it
a temporary holdover until I get by a better stocked shop (planning
to send my bike in for the break-in tuneup before too long anyway)
where I can pick up a small kit that includes the vulcanizing
solution. *I considered just buying the solution separately, but
I'm not sure how old the patches themselves are, and the solution
would cost 75% what a new small kit would cost. *I also considered
super-glue as an adhesive, but read a few reviews that it dried too
hard and and as a result didn't hold well if allowed to fully cure
to the tube before the tube formed to the tire, and ran the risk of
adhering to the tire if installed too soon. *Any experience/input
appreciated.

Whew! Let me catch my breath.

Glueless patches are better than nothing, I used to carry them, but
no longer do as they're not as good as cemented patches. *My first
line of defense is spare tubes, second is glued patches. *If you
take a bit of care with both, I don't see a need for a third line of
defense. *Of course they take up no room, so there's no harm in
them, I just gave them up after never having a need for several
years.

If you can manually pull the patch off, then it isn't reliable, and
that's what glueless patches are. *Just consider why we have these
patches at all. *It is because glue tube manufacturers make leaky
crimps on the bottom of the tube. *You wouldn't try to hold air
pressure with a crimp seal, so why do it with other vapors?

I am amazed how these folks stay in business while offering a reliably
faulty product. *That is to say, they are not aware of the cause of
dried glue tubes but never question their product. *They seem to pass
it off on user error in not securing the cap properly, never trying it
themselves how unopened tubes are dry.

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/brandt/patching.html

Jobst Brandt

I have some small zip-lock style bags from a stationary store
(Staples). They're about 1" x 2", and i keep my glue tube in that.
The glue does not dry out after a year, even after the tube has been
opened and used. Better glue tubes would be nice, though.

wrote:
On Sep 20, 9:46�am, wrote:
Peter Cole wrote:
Went by a local shop today to pick up a new kit, since the cement
in mine was done for. �All they had was a huge kit (size of an
altoids tin) and a very small Park Tool glueless setup. �I told the
shop owner I wasn't fond of the glueless thing, since I'd heard of
so many poor experiences with them. �He told me that the earlier
ones had some issues, and the cheap (aka Bell) ones were not so
hot, but the newer Park patches worked pretty good - he had not had
any complaints or problems. �Anyone have any input on this? �I
figure it's better than nothing, and it's really small, which is
good, but I'm wondering if I should trust the things or consider it
a temporary holdover until I get by a better stocked shop (planning
to send my bike in for the break-in tuneup before too long anyway)
where I can pick up a small kit that includes the vulcanizing
solution. �I considered just buying the solution separately, but
I'm not sure how old the patches themselves are, and the solution
would cost 75% what a new small kit would cost. �I also considered
super-glue as an adhesive, but read a few reviews that it dried too
hard and and as a result didn't hold well if allowed to fully cure
to the tube before the tube formed to the tire, and ran the risk of
adhering to the tire if installed too soon. �Any experience/input
appreciated.
Whew! Let me catch my breath.

Glueless patches are better than nothing, I used to carry them, but
no longer do as they're not as good as cemented patches. �My first
line of defense is spare tubes, second is glued patches. �If you
take a bit of care with both, I don't see a need for a third line of
defense. �Of course they take up no room, so there's no harm in
them, I just gave them up after never having a need for several
years.
If you can manually pull the patch off, then it isn't reliable, and
that's what glueless patches are. �Just consider why we have these
patches at all. �It is because glue tube manufacturers make leaky
crimps on the bottom of the tube. �You wouldn't try to hold air
pressure with a crimp seal, so why do it with other vapors?

I am amazed how these folks stay in business while offering a reliably
faulty product. �That is to say, they are not aware of the cause of
dried glue tubes but never question their product. �They seem to pass
it off on user error in not securing the cap properly, never trying it
themselves how unopened tubes are dry.

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/brandt/patching.html

Jobst Brandt

I have some small zip-lock style bags from a stationary store
(Staples). They're about 1" x 2", and i keep my glue tube in that.
The glue does not dry out after a year, even after the tube has been
opened and used. Better glue tubes would be nice, though.

thicker aluminum in the tube would help against abuse, but it's not
necessary if the tube is treated right. and your plastic baggie resists
friction wear quite well since the polythene is an effective solid
lubricant. doesn't last indefintely though since it tends to fatigue
and rupture.

On Sep 21, 2:41*pm, Ben C wrote:
On 2008-09-20, wrote:
[...]

Maybe we need a survey to show how widespread dried out unopened tubes
of bicycle tire rubber cement have occurred with bicyclists who read
this newsgroup.

I've never known an unopened one to dry out.

I bought a whole can of it. I don't carry patches on my rides.
However, I patch everything at home. The can of rubber glue has lasted
me more than four years. It has a lid with a brush and works great. I
got it at an auto part store along with a piece of rubber to patch
things.

I always carry two tubes along for rides. If I puncture more than
that, I tie a knot on the tube and ride home. I also carry a cell
phone. for really long rides where there may be lots of flats, you can
carry extra tube on your back and through your arms. You do a figure
eight with the tubes and pass your arms through them. You won't even
notice them. If you get flats, patch them at home and keep the patched
tube as spares. I keep riding my tubes until they have so many patches
that become bomb proof. Actually, they puncture at the valve after a
long time.

wrote:
On Sep 21, 2:41�pm, Ben C wrote:
On 2008-09-20, wrote:
[...]

Maybe we need a survey to show how widespread dried out unopened tubes
of bicycle tire rubber cement have occurred with bicyclists who read
this newsgroup.
I've never known an unopened one to dry out.

I bought a whole can of it. I don't carry patches on my rides.
However, I patch everything at home. The can of rubber glue has lasted
me more than four years. It has a lid with a brush and works great. I
got it at an auto part store along with a piece of rubber to patch
things.

I always carry two tubes along for rides. If I puncture more than
that, I tie a knot on the tube and ride home. I also carry a cell
phone. for really long rides where there may be lots of flats, you can
carry extra tube on your back and through your arms. You do a figure
eight with the tubes and pass your arms through them. You won't even
notice them. If you get flats, patch them at home and keep the patched
tube as spares. I keep riding my tubes until they have so many patches
that become bomb proof. Actually, they puncture at the valve after a
long time.


sounds like ridiculously puncture-prone tires you have there - what are
they???

" writes:

On Sep 21, 2:41Â*pm, Ben C wrote:
On 2008-09-20, wrote:
[...]

Maybe we need a survey to show how widespread dried out unopened tubes
of bicycle tire rubber cement have occurred with bicyclists who read
this newsgroup.

I've never known an unopened one to dry out.

I bought a whole can of it. I don't carry patches on my rides.
However, I patch everything at home. The can of rubber glue has lasted
me more than four years. It has a lid with a brush and works great. I
got it at an auto part store along with a piece of rubber to patch
things.

I always carry two tubes along for rides. If I puncture more than
that, I tie a knot on the tube and ride home. I also carry a cell
phone. for really long rides where there may be lots of flats, you can

?!?!? Maybe you should invest in some decent tyres and new tubes? On a
fully loaded touring bike I have not had a flat in about 15 years.

Either that or get some decent glue and proper patches...

carry extra tube on your back and through your arms. You do a figure
eight with the tubes and pass your arms through them. You won't even
notice them. If you get flats, patch them at home and keep the patched

Yo put a tube around your body when cycling?!?!?!? Wow.

tube as spares. I keep riding my tubes until they have so many patches
that become bomb proof. Actually, they puncture at the valve after a
long time.