Gaping hole in tire

Thanks for all your contributions. From all your answers, I gather that
applying a boot is at best a temporary measure, and that attempting to
repair the tire is not a worthwhile exercise in view of the price of a
new one.

Here are some pictures:

http://radio-bip.qc.ca/velo/vandalisme/photos.html

Picture #12 shows the gaping hole after inflating.

The patch (#11) wasn't my best job ever, it was slightly larger than the
area on which I had applied the vulcanizing agent, so I was left with
applying a bit of solvent after most of the "plaster" was already
fastened in place. The botched edge is far enough from the slit, so that
shouldn't be a problem. There is still air in the tube this morning.

I have a couple of tires in reserve which were not too worn out, so in
the end I bit the bullet and set aside the damaged tread. Pity, it only
had about 1000 km on it. I will do the other two in the next days.

wrote:
sorry to hear of your trouble. what you are looking for is called a
tire boot; just a layer of something a bit stiffer than inner tube
rubber sticks inside the tire over the cut and keeps everything in;

I'm trying to picture what this can be. Would that be some sort of
T-shaped part?

I remember from my childhood a repaired automobile tire with some white
rubbery stuff sticking out. It seemed as if the car mechanic had crammed
some stuff in the orifice. Would these boots have any similarity?

park tools sells a great kit with a few boots you can get for a couple
of dollars at your local bike shop.

I'll try to find some, as a reserve. I need to buy a new repair kit
anyway, the remaining solvent had entirely evaporated since the last
repair (strange, it wasn't THAT long ago), and there was only air left
in it. I managed to find another one in my mess.

Gotta find that vandal though

I have suspicions, it is quite possibly an in-house job, something which
I find a rather unsettling idea.

Someone offered me a puncture-proof tire a while back which I never
mounted, as I found it very stiff and apparently harder to slip over the
rim. If I go down that way, I would need to acquire more of these. I
don't get flats very often, I get much more trouble from other parts
such as chains and pedals.

Alexandre

On Sep 23, 3:46*am, Alexandre Kampouris wrote:
Thanks for all your contributions. From all your answers, I gather that
applying a boot is at best a temporary measure, and that attempting to
repair the tire is not a worthwhile exercise in view of the price of a
new one.

Here are some pictures:

http://radio-bip.qc.ca/velo/vandalisme/photos.html

Picture #12 shows the gaping hole after inflating.

The patch (#11) wasn't my best job ever, it was slightly larger than the
area on which I had applied the vulcanizing agent, so I was left with
applying a bit of solvent after most of the "plaster" was already
fastened in place. The botched edge is far enough from the slit, so that
shouldn't be a problem. There is still air in the tube this morning.

I have a couple of tires in reserve which were not too worn out, so in
the end I bit the bullet and set aside the damaged tread. Pity, it only
had about 1000 km on it. I will do the other two in the next days.

wrote:
sorry to hear of your trouble. what you are looking for is called a
tire boot; just a layer of something a bit stiffer than inner tube
rubber sticks inside the tire over the cut and keeps everything in;

I'm trying to picture what this can be. Would that be some sort of
T-shaped part?

I remember from my childhood a repaired automobile tire with some white
rubbery stuff sticking out. It seemed as if the car mechanic had crammed
some stuff in the orifice. Would these boots have any similarity?

* park tools sells a great kit with a few boots you can get for a couple
* of dollars at your local bike shop.

I'll try to find some, as a reserve. I need to buy a new repair kit
anyway, the remaining solvent had entirely evaporated since the last
repair (strange, it wasn't THAT long ago), and there was only air left
in it. I managed to find another one in my mess.

Gotta find that vandal though

I have suspicions, it is quite possibly an in-house job, something which
I find a rather unsettling idea.

Someone offered me a puncture-proof tire a while back which I never
mounted, as I found it very stiff and apparently harder to slip over the
rim. If I go down that way, I would need to acquire more of these. I
don't get flats very often, I get much more trouble from other parts
such as chains and pedals.

Alexandre

A puncture proof tire is really just a little more puncture resistant
on the road, it won't beat back vandals ( although there is a
product)....
A crafty cheap camera based surveillance setup is what you need, then
catch the culprits. I'd fix the tires, save one bike for riding in my
apt, and leave the bait under camera. good luck!

On 22 Sep 2008 23:34:31 GMT, wrote:

Jay Taylor wrote:

Last night, some twit knifed the tires (or tyres, if you prefer)
of all my three bikes. The cut was made vertically with a pointed
knife, and is between 7 to 10 mm long depending on the victim.

I thought I'd be able to quickly put this unpleasantness behind
me, but after patching up the first tube and pumping back air
into it at the maximal 6 bar rating, I see that the cut in the
tire takes a gaping oval shape, with an aperture of 2-3mm at the
widest. The tube already pushes into the empty space, and shows
potential for forming an hernia.

Is there any way I could close that hole? I don't think I'm gonna
get much mileage out of that combination in the present state. Is
there anything I could do, like trying to patch the tire on the
inner face, or put something which will prevent the tube from
being punctured by whatever comes up through that hole. Replacing
all tires is a lot of hassle.

Thanks in advance for any suggestions or advice.

Might try a few layers of duct tape over the hole. Start with
just covering the hole, then add each layer a little bit longer
than the previous one. About 4-6 would be the maximum thickness
you should go for, run pressure a little low, and get a
replacement tire. Maybe go ahead and buy all the needed
replacements, but just replace one every one or two weeks.

Duct tape has a pressure sensitive adhesive and doesn't harden for
a long time. That adhesive acts as an inter ply lubricant over
time and will allow the tape to creep and bulge through the casing
hole. Short term, it's a good stop gap fix... to get home. Laying
diagonally oriented cloth weave with latex rubber coated between
each lay-up might work if the bridging action is not a complete
hole of missing casing. Latex rubber does not creep but is elastic
when cured, that doesn't take more than "over night".

http://www.magicmakers.com/retail/ma...nye/latex.html

And if possible, stitch the patches to the casing as close as is
reasonable possible to the cut; if it is in the "treaded" portion,
you may be able to lay the stitches in the tread grooves - if it is
not, get to within about 1/4 inch of the cut (close may allow the
casing to fray) and do a figure-of-eight stitch through the cut.

I don't think that is useful because sewing through a clincher is damn
hard and can puncture a metal thimble when pushing the needle, even
through a tread groove. Glue a multi (at least two ply) layer boot
into the casing with latex glue.

Jobst Brandt

I use a sailors' palm and a stitching awl. Sure it can be difficult, but
sometimes needs must.

On Sep 23, 3:46*am, Alexandre Kampouris wrote:
Thanks for all your contributions. From all your answers, I gather that
applying a boot is at best a temporary measure, and that attempting to
repair the tire is not a worthwhile exercise in view of the price of a
new one.

Here are some pictures:

http://radio-bip.qc.ca/velo/vandalisme/photos.html

Picture #12 shows the gaping hole after inflating.

The patch (#11) wasn't my best job ever, it was slightly larger than the
area on which I had applied the vulcanizing agent, so I was left with
applying a bit of solvent after most of the "plaster" was already
fastened in place. The botched edge is far enough from the slit, so that
shouldn't be a problem. There is still air in the tube this morning.

I have a couple of tires in reserve which were not too worn out, so in
the end I bit the bullet and set aside the damaged tread. Pity, it only
had about 1000 km on it. I will do the other two in the next days.

wrote:
sorry to hear of your trouble. what you are looking for is called a
tire boot; just a layer of something a bit stiffer than inner tube
rubber sticks inside the tire over the cut and keeps everything in;

I'm trying to picture what this can be. Would that be some sort of
T-shaped part?

I remember from my childhood a repaired automobile tire with some white
rubbery stuff sticking out. It seemed as if the car mechanic had crammed
some stuff in the orifice. Would these boots have any similarity?

* park tools sells a great kit with a few boots you can get for a couple
* of dollars at your local bike shop.

I'll try to find some, as a reserve. I need to buy a new repair kit
anyway, the remaining solvent had entirely evaporated since the last
repair (strange, it wasn't THAT long ago), and there was only air left
in it. I managed to find another one in my mess.

Gotta find that vandal though

I have suspicions, it is quite possibly an in-house job, something which
I find a rather unsettling idea.

Someone offered me a puncture-proof tire a while back which I never
mounted, as I found it very stiff and apparently harder to slip over the
rim. If I go down that way, I would need to acquire more of these. I
don't get flats very often, I get much more trouble from other parts
such as chains and pedals.

Alexandre

This is the thing you would be looking for
http://www.parktool.com/products/det...17&item=TB%2D2 or
perhaps here https://www.sluggergifts.com/zgifts - maybe splurge and
get both. I've used the tire boot a couple of times before, one
lasted me the remaining life of the tire for my road bike ( I haven't
needed a boot in ages though); if you have a persistant vandal
replacing tires will get expensive quick- it might be better to get
and use the boot until you discover if the vandal will repeat his/her
actions, or better yet who the vandal is.

good luck

Alexandre Kampouris wrote:
Thanks for all your contributions. From all your answers, I gather that
applying a boot is at best a temporary measure, and that attempting to
repair the tire is not a worthwhile exercise in view of the price of a
new one.

Here are some pictures:

http://radio-bip.qc.ca/velo/vandalisme/photos.html

Picture #12 shows the gaping hole after inflating.

That reminds me - if you're willing to use a Mr. Tuffy, they work pretty
well with cuts like that, perhaps with no other repair (though that
might be pushing it).

I had a big cut on my commuter rear tire a long time back when I was
still using a Tuffy there. Didn't know about the cut for a while
(fenders, you know). When I pulled the rear wheel for cleaning, there
was the orange Tuffy shining through a big cut - it had worked for
who-knows-how-long without a problem.

Mr. Tuffys /do/ make the tire less flexible, adding significant (IMHO) drag.

Mark J.

On Tue, 23 Sep 2008 09:46:46 +0200, Alexandre Kampouris
wrote:

[---]

Someone offered me a puncture-proof tire a while back which I never
mounted, as I found it very stiff and apparently harder to slip over the
rim. If I go down that way, I would need to acquire more of these. I
don't get flats very often

If it was a Schwalbe Marathon Plus, then I'd say it's not worth it, in
my view. They are indeed extremely heavy - almost 1kg
for a 700x40.

I had to put one on a rear wheel in August of last year, to
replace a tyre which had become irreparably damaged. I was in
Arnstadt that day, and no-one there had "normal" Marathons, only the
"Plus". I took it off when I got home, though.

Salut Andrew!

Andrew Price wrote:
On Tue, 23 Sep 2008 09:46:46 +0200, Alexandre Kampouris
wrote:

[---]

Someone offered me a puncture-proof tire a while back which I never
mounted, as I found it very stiff and apparently harder to slip over the
rim. If I go down that way, I would need to acquire more of these. I
don't get flats very often

If it was a Schwalbe Marathon Plus, then I'd say it's not worth it, in
my view. They are indeed extremely heavy - almost 1kg
for a 700x40.

Yes, it was a Marathon Plus indeed, but the difference in weight is not
that huge, I just tested two brand new tires hanging in equilibrium
from on a kitchen scale placed at the corner of a table:

37-622 Marathon Plus: 967 g
37-622 Marathon : 679 g

As stated earlier, I'm actually quite satisfied with the standard grade
Marathons, and I don't see any reason to change, as they never gave me
any particular trouble which could lead me to seek an alternative.

My latest bike had tires like yours as a default offering, IIRC. I
preferred sticking with the devil I knew.

What's the point of using a wider tire? The 40s are limited to 5 bars
instead of 6, isn't it?

I had to put one on a rear wheel in August of last year, to
replace a tyre which had become irreparably damaged. I was in
Arnstadt that day, and no-one there had "normal" Marathons, only the
"Plus". I took it off when I got home, though.

Did you ride all the way to/from home through the Harz Mountains?

Last week I made my first multiple-day bike trip in Lower Saxony. The
landscape was not at all difficult, albeit a bit windy. I had only ever
made day trips before, at home or away, but had never actually used the
bike as THE means of transportation between places. It was an intensely
satisfying experience, and I really regret not having tried it earlier.

Tomorrow I'm off to InnoTrans.

Gruss aus Berlin,

Alexandre

wrote:
This is the thing you would be looking for
http://www.parktool.com/products/det...17&item=TB%2D2 or

I found it at my usual dealer. I don't think I'll use it, I never needed
it before, but I'd rather keep some around in my bag with the other tools.

perhaps here https://www.sluggergifts.com/zgifts - maybe splurge and
get both.

Naaaa, I'll leave violence to car drivers. Germany is at least in theory
a constitutional state, at least as long as automobiles aren't involved.

I've used the tire boot a couple of times before, one
lasted me the remaining life of the tire for my road bike ( I haven't
needed a boot in ages though); if you have a persistant vandal
replacing tires will get expensive quick- it might be better to get
and use the boot until you discover if the vandal will repeat his/her
actions, or better yet who the vandal is.

Even though there is always a danger of escalating violence, I don't see
any reason for this particular vandalism to reoccur. We have an idea of
the perpetrators' identities and motives, and they know that we know.
I've been to the police, and am contemplating other, legal, avenues.

good luck

Thanks,

Alexandre

? wrote:
[...]
This is the thing you would be looking for
http://www.parktool.com/products/det...17&item=TB%2D2 or
perhaps here https://www.sluggergifts.com/zgifts - maybe splurge and
get both.[...]

An aluminium alloy bat can be swung faster, so it will transfer more
energy to the target.

--
Tom Sherman - Holstein-Friesland Bovinia
“fdlagjaesgtp4epsadvdsajvadsvadjvdxzjvodjvof
adsgvogjvoasjcaoivor6udfda0tvuojdxvosdotvfl” – Ed Dolan

On Tue, 23 Sep 2008 21:12:23 -0500, Tom Sherman wrote:

? wrote:
[...]
This is the thing you would be looking for
http://www.parktool.com/products/det...17&item=TB%2D2 or
perhaps here https://www.sluggergifts.com/zgifts - maybe splurge and
get both.[...]

An aluminium alloy bat can be swung faster, so it will transfer more
energy to the target.

Are you sure?

Despite the v^2 term, the source of the enrgy remains the same (the
swinger's muscles) and (aside from the negligable quantum effects), if the
swinger puts all that he can into the object, which then stops and puts all
that it has into the recipient, the means of transport from swinger to
recipient should not matter.