repair the tube or toss it

Jobst Brandt writes:
Unfortunately REMA Tip Top spread a bunch of bad information on how to
patch a tube, so there are many riders who do not install patches
well.
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/brandt/patching.html

Ben Pfaff wrote:
This page gives a number of helpful "do" and "do not" tips, but
it would be more valuable if it actually gave a step-by-step
procedure.

AMuzi writes:
here you go:
http://www.yellowjersey.org/tubfix.html

Ben Pfaff wrote:
I don't use tubular tires.

Then skip the "cut threads" and "sew seam" parts and all the
base tape stuff.

You should be faster than in the example shown; the tube is
the same part as any 700-23 PV clincher.

Find injury
Rectify cause (remove glass or whatever)
Clean surface
Apply cement
Wait
Apply patch, press firmly
install, air, ride away.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

On 26 Gen, 21:10, AMuzi wrote:
here you go:http://www.yellowjersey.org/tubfix.html

I have long ago watched how a mechanic did to hold the lips of the
casing together while stitching.
If you have a vise, clamp them one against the other.

Beware.
Do not stitch too tight, but just enough. Once the job is finished the
two lips will flatten out perfectly aligned.
Also, by doing so you do not risk puncturing the tube with your
needle.

Sergio
Pisa

On 26 Gen, 21:10, AMuzi wrote:
here you go:http://www.yellowjersey.org/tubfix.html

sergio wrote:
I have long ago watched how a mechanic did to hold the lips of the
casing together while stitching.
If you have a vise, clamp them one against the other.

Beware.
Do not stitch too tight, but just enough. Once the job is finished the
two lips will flatten out perfectly aligned.
Also, by doing so you do not risk puncturing the tube with your
needle.

That's true, as with human skin, where an overly tight
stitch leaves a lumpy scar. I have one of those as a helpful
reminder.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

On Jan 26, 1:27*pm, "Bill Sornson" wrote:
AMuzi wrote:
http://www.yellowjersey.org/tubfix.html

If I ever need to repair a banana peel, I'm golden!

I wonder if he has guides to repairng other fruits

In article ,
Mark Cleary wrote:

I had a flat riding the other day and so for this I carry a spare tube
it is easier than finding the leak. To find a leak on the road at times
can be a problem so I simply put a new tube in to save the problem and
of course check the tire. Well I get home and see about fixing the old
tube but frankly with patches and the trouble is it just about as easy
to replace the tube and be done. My patches can hold but sometimes it
takes work. I am lazy. I am I being to lazy or do you mostly fix the
tube assuming it can be?

Keep several spare tubes, carry two spares on the road.
Find the puncture and mark it when you get home. You
should have located it and the cause on the road before
installing the new tube. Put the punctured tube in with
the others. When the pile builds up, have a sit down
and patch them all.

--
Michael Press

On 26 Jan, 21:49, sergio wrote:
On 26 Gen, 21:10, AMuzi wrote:

here you go:http://www.yellowjersey.org/tubfix.html

I have long ago watched how a mechanic did to hold the lips of the
casing together while stitching.
If you have a vise, clamp them one against the other.

Beware.
Do not stitch too tight, but just enough. Once the job is finished the
two lips will flatten out perfectly aligned.
Also, by doing so you do not risk puncturing the tube with your
needle.

Sergio
Pisa

i THINK IT IS PROBABLY WORTHWHILE MAKING A SIMPLE CLAMP to go behind
the stitch line. I tend only to ride in the dry, so my time between
punctures can be quite long and I forget to leave the spoon handle in
to keep poking the tube away when stitching. So each year on average
I put the awl through the tube with about four stitches to go at
most. I think there should be something available for leather
workers. A large "Bulldog" clip might be easier to get hold of.
it'll slip my mind and I'll probably make the same mistake again.

thirty-six wrote:
On 26 Jan, 20:10, Dan O wrote:
On Jan 25, 5:18 pm, Mark Cleary wrote:

I had a flat riding the other day and so for this I carry a spare tube
it is easier than finding the leak. To find a leak on the road at times
can be a problem...
I should have mentioned that - for me, anyway - it's very, very
important to at least try and find the leak before replacing the
tube. (Almost always suffices to inflate the bare tube and pass it
through your hands, feeling and listening for the leak. Squirt a
little water on it and look for spitting if necessary.) This helps
you correlate and identify the exact cause, which is usually still
stuck in the tire.

Most punctures occur in the wet. When there is still air in the tyre
ride through an area of road which is covered with water but has next
to no depth, ride dead slow and the tyre will sound as the puncture is
in the water. The road needs to be quiet. Repair the puncture
without removing the wheel or tyre. Quick.


This is maybe the answer I was riding and it was wet with some light
mist. I usually never ride in the rain and the whole reason for this
thread was I went all summer about 1600 miles since 0709 with no flats
on my bike. I have the original tires and tube. So naturally I am out in
January cold and even some light snow and then I get a flat. Not in good
weather but or course in the worst situation. In fact this is the 1st
flat I ever had that happen out on a real training type ride. I have no
problems with patching the tubes but it does take a bit of skill and
work. I would rather change out the tube while on the ride and patch
later at home. HOw often do you have flats on road bikes in dry weather
and decent pavement? I suppose it could happen all the time but I am
guessing under these conditions not as much as other types of riding.

Do you think the wet weather was my problem? I noticed the tire had a
small hole from some sharp object that was the cause of the tire going
out. My tires have about 1500 miles and looked fine but the middle is
worn pretty flat. There were no noticeable problems from the outside
just pretty flat in the middle of the tire. I did change tires because I
wanted to see how these Vredestein Tri Comps will ride. I ran my finger
all along the tire on the inside and it still feels like there is plenty
of rubber on the tire but worn flat in the middle.

Now the kicker of the story is I was riding with a huge tailwind doing
some 1.5 mile pick ups getting the speed up to about 35 mph. The tire
did not blow out and it was the rear tire but it does make one think
about the situation. Finally the spare tube I carry did not have a long
enough valve stem I need 48mm stems an this was 32 and would not work.
So here I am freezing in the middle of the country with a bike I am
going to have to carry home. Lucky I am really a runner so I can run
home with the bike but I had to be a 4 pm Mass and it was 3pm.

Good thing for cell phones made it with 5 minutes to spare.

It was a long story but what do you think about my tires and the flat
middle are they gone? The small hole from the puncture I think will be
ok but would have to pump it up and see how it reacts.

--
Deacon Mark Cleary
Epiphany Roman Catholic Church

Mark Cleary wrote:
[...]
Do you think the wet weather was my problem?[...]

Try cutting dry rubber with a utility knife or razor. Repeat with water
as a cutting lubricant.

--
Tom Sherman - 42.435731,-83.985007

On 27 Jan, 03:49, Mark Cleary wrote:
thirty-six wrote:

Most punctures occur in the wet. * When there is still air in the tyre
ride through an area of road which is covered with water but has next
to no depth, ride dead slow and the tyre will sound as the puncture is
in the water. *The road needs to be quiet. * Repair the puncture
without removing the wheel or tyre. *Quick.

This is maybe the answer I was riding and it was wet with some light
mist. I usually never ride in the rain

I try not to myself.

and the whole reason for this
thread was I went all summer about 1600 miles since 0709 with no flats
on my bike. I have the original tires and tube. So naturally I am out in
January cold and even some light snow and then I get a flat. Not in good
weather but or course in the worst situation. In fact this is the 1st
flat I ever had that happen out on a real training type ride. I have no
problems with patching the tubes but it does take a bit of skill and
work. I would rather change out the tube while on the ride and patch
later at home.

That would entail more work. Aim to patch with the wheel in place.
Only when you are unable to identify the location of the leak in
reasonable time should you swap tubes.

HOw often do you have flats on road bikes in dry weather
and decent pavement?

If the tyre rubber is relatively intact (no holes to the casing) and
all splinters etc removed from the tread then tyre punctures from the
road probably dont ever happen in the dry (drawing pins excepted). To
keep an intact tread you must glue up the holes.

I suppose it could happen all the time but I am
guessing under these conditions not as much as other types of riding.

Do you think the wet weather was my problem?

Riding over flint or glass will puncture a thin treaded tyre in the
wet quite easily. The fitting of tyre skimmers will help save you
from this occurance.

I noticed the tire had a
small hole from some sharp object that was the cause of the tire going
out. My tires have about 1500 miles and looked fine but the middle is
worn pretty flat.

That'll be a narrow tyre run at excessive pressure. A larger radius
cross section will not suffer so much.

There were no noticeable problems from the outside
just pretty flat in the middle of the tire. I did change tires because I
wanted to see how these Vredestein Tri Comps will ride. I ran my finger
all along the tire on the inside and it still feels like there is plenty
of rubber on the tire but worn flat in the middle.

Now the kicker of the story is I was riding with a huge tailwind doing
some 1.5 mile pick ups getting the speed up to about 35 mph. The tire
did not blow out and it was the rear tire but it does make one think
about the situation.

If the effects of a puncture on handling worry you, then tubular tyres
offer greater security.

Finally the spare tube I carry did not have a long
enough valve stem I need 48mm stems an this was 32 and would not work.

You do make cycling hard for yourself. Shallow section rims run
easier and are not fussy about valve stem length.

So here I am freezing in the middle of the country with a bike I am
going to have to carry home. Lucky I am really a runner so I can run
home with the bike but I had to be a 4 pm Mass and it was 3pm.

As long as the tyre is fat enough (ho ho) you can ride on the wheel
with it flat, just dont hit and bumps and take the corners slow.


Good thing for cell phones made it with 5 minutes to spare.

your saviour.


It was a long story but what do you think about my tires and the flat
middle are they gone? The small hole from the puncture I think will be
ok but would have to pump it up and see how it reacts.

Repair the tread, and casing if necessary. Keep riding until the
tread starts breaking up or has worn through to the casing. As the
tread gets thinner, use another wheel (with larger section and lower
tyre pressure) for the rainy days.

Jobst Brandt wrote:
Tom Sherman wrote:

Do you think the wet weather was my problem?

Try cutting dry rubber with a utility knife or razor. Repeat with
water as a cutting lubricant.

Most folks don't see water as a lubricant.


Huh?

Surely most folks reconize that wet roads are more slippery than dry roads?


--
Tad McClellan
email: perl -le "print scalar reverse qq/moc.liamg\100cm.j.dat/"