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Axa dynamo connection problems
Hi All, My Axa traction dynamo works great when it's connected
properly - there's a halogen bulbed front light (v.bright) and an LED rear, and they stay lit until I'm down to walking-pace :-) However, the whole thing is spoilt by the fact that the connector block linking the wires to the body of the dynamo doesn't work properly. The 4 wires (2 +ive, 2 earth) are bared and then poked into 4 small holes in the top of a small plastic block which is then pressed onto the 4 copper prongs set into the body of the dynamo. The trouble is they're always working loose - the back lamp spends more time off than on and the front one's not much better - at least I can see when the front one's gone dark... Does this sound familiar to you folks and has anyone come up with a solution? Simon in Bristol |
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Axa dynamo connection problems
On Mon, 14 May 2007 10:06:43 -0700, SimoninEaston wrote:
Hi All, My Axa traction dynamo works great when it's connected properly - there's a halogen bulbed front light (v.bright) and an LED rear, and they stay lit until I'm down to walking-pace :-) However, the whole thing is spoilt by the fact that the connector block linking the wires to the body of the dynamo doesn't work properly. The 4 wires (2 +ive, 2 earth) are bared and then poked into 4 small holes in the top of a small plastic block which is then pressed onto the 4 copper prongs set into the body of the dynamo. The trouble is they're always working loose - the back lamp spends more time off than on and the front one's not much better - at least I can see when the front one's gone dark... Does this sound familiar to you folks and has anyone come up with a solution? Simon in Bristol My solution was to remove more insulation from the wires and push more bare wire into the hole - making a tighter fit between the wire and the red plastic block thingy. I also folded the bare wire back on the plastic block, if you see what I mean. Of course the risk of having more bare wire shoved into the little hole is that there could be an electrical short between two of the wires - I was just careful that this did not happen. John T. |
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Axa dynamo connection problems
I've had mine strapped in place with a bit of duct tape for a number of
years with no problems. -- Derby, England. Don't try to email me using "REPLY" as the email address is NoSpam. Our email address is "thewoodies2 at ntlworld dot com" "John Tomlinson" wrote in message ... On Mon, 14 May 2007 10:06:43 -0700, SimoninEaston wrote: Hi All, My Axa traction dynamo works great when it's connected properly - there's a halogen bulbed front light (v.bright) and an LED rear, and they stay lit until I'm down to walking-pace :-) However, the whole thing is spoilt by the fact that the connector block linking the wires to the body of the dynamo doesn't work properly. The 4 wires (2 +ive, 2 earth) are bared and then poked into 4 small holes in the top of a small plastic block which is then pressed onto the 4 copper prongs set into the body of the dynamo. The trouble is they're always working loose - the back lamp spends more time off than on and the front one's not much better - at least I can see when the front one's gone dark... Does this sound familiar to you folks and has anyone come up with a solution? Simon in Bristol My solution was to remove more insulation from the wires and push more bare wire into the hole - making a tighter fit between the wire and the red plastic block thingy. I also folded the bare wire back on the plastic block, if you see what I mean. Of course the risk of having more bare wire shoved into the little hole is that there could be an electrical short between two of the wires - I was just careful that this did not happen. John T. |
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Axa dynamo connection problems
SimoninEaston ) wrote:
Hi All, My Axa traction dynamo works great when it's connected properly - there's a halogen bulbed front light (v.bright) and an LED rear, and they stay lit until I'm down to walking-pace :-) However, the whole thing is spoilt by the fact that the connector block linking the wires to the body of the dynamo doesn't work properly. The 4 wires (2 +ive, 2 earth) are bared and then poked into 4 small holes in the top of a small plastic block which is then pressed onto the 4 copper prongs set into the body of the dynamo. The trouble is they're always working loose - the back lamp spends more time off than on and the front one's not much better - at least I can see when the front one's gone dark... Does this sound familiar to you folks and has anyone come up with a solution? Simon in Bristol Sounds very familiar. I've solved this by outfitting the four cable ends with these little connector thingies of which I don't know the name. There's an image at the Schmidt website: http://www.nabendynamo.de/montgra3.gif The thing that's at the cable end. I think any good bikeshop should have them. I think you presumably need a special tool to attach these, but I squeezed them on with pointed pliers. Schmidt write that of the two pairs of "claws" of the connector thingy, the first one should go around the end of the wire insulation, the second around the bare wire end. Then, insulate with these little shrinking insulation tubes. Then, I just stuck these onto the four copper prongs respectively. The copper prongs are a little thicker than the standard prongs of bicycle lights, so I had to loosen the cable end connector thingies slightly by using a corkscrew. Loosen only the entrance part, then shove onto the prongs with a little force, should give a nice tight fit. Of course, with this method you don't use the plastic block at all. Haven't had problems since, on two bikes. m. |
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