|
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#1
|
|||
|
|||
shimano freehub questions
Hi Everyone,
While swapping the cassette on my old Shimano 600 7 speed hub, I seem to have damaged the freehub. Namely, it seems to bind somewhat when I spin it. In order to swap cassettes I used the procedure at http://www.parktool.com/repair_help/FAQcogs.shtml using the FR-5 Park tool. I used my skewer to sung up the tool and then used a 1" wrench and chain whip to loosen the lock ring. Upon reassembly, I used only the 1" wrench (FR-5 snugged up using skewer). I didn't use a torque wrench but I don't think I torqued too much. In any event, now my freehub is binding and does not spin as freely as the freehubs on a couple of spare hubs I have. How easy is it to damage the freehub using this technique? The only step from above that I can see would cause the binding is the final tightening of the cassette lock ring, is that the likely cause? Since I have the spare hubs, how can I remove the freehub from one of them? They are both unlaced so I'm not sure how to resist the torque required to loosen the 10mm freehub bolt. Any ideas? Lastly, does anyone know where to get a new freehub for the Shimano 600 hubs if I can't free one of my spares? I see that Nashbar does not list this part at all for example. Are they easy to get? Any help greatly appreciated. -Peter |
Ads |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
shimano freehub questions
peter z wrote: Hi Everyone, While swapping the cassette on my old Shimano 600 7 speed hub, I seem to have damaged the freehub. Namely, it seems to bind somewhat when I spin it. In order to swap cassettes I used the procedure at http://www.parktool.com/repair_help/FAQcogs.shtml using the FR-5 Park tool. I used my skewer to sung up the tool and then used a 1" wrench and chain whip to loosen the lock ring. Upon reassembly, I used only the 1" wrench (FR-5 snugged up using skewer). I didn't use a torque wrench but I don't think I torqued too much. In any event, now my freehub is binding and does not spin as freely as the freehubs on a couple of spare hubs I have. I'll presume that you think you've damaged the cassette body, not the "freehub". "Freehub" is Shimano argot for the entire unit. In my experience, it's very hard to damage the Shimano cassette body. At least, I've never hurt one in 15 years of kitbashing Shimano hubs, including many, many cassette swaps and a number of body transplants. I would suspect that something has become lodged under the cassette cogs and is rubbing on the aluminum hub body. How easy is it to damage the freehub using this technique? The only step from above that I can see would cause the binding is the final tightening of the cassette lock ring, is that the likely cause? Since I have the spare hubs, how can I remove the freehub from one of them? They are both unlaced so I'm not sure how to resist the torque required to loosen the 10mm freehub bolt. Any ideas? I've removed cassette bodys from unlaced hubs (on the living room coffee table, if you must know). The hold-down bolt is not incredibly tight- usually it can be loosened with a short, sharp, shock. Dig it? If you're removing the cassette body from a hub that you're not planning on saving, hold the hub at the flange with a large pipe wrench. After transplantation, it would be good to tighten the body on the "new" hub after the wheel is built. I've got wheels where I have not done this (and they're still intact), but it would be good to make sure the proper torque is applied. Park Tool recommends 300 to 400 inch-pounds (25 to 34 foot-pounds): http://www.parktool.com/repair_help/torque.shtml Lastly, does anyone know where to get a new freehub for the Shimano 600 hubs if I can't free one of my spares? I see that Nashbar does not list this part at all for example. Are they easy to get? Presuming you're in the U.S., any bike shop should be able to order one through Quality Bicycle products: http://harriscyclery.net/site/page.c...=481&Brand=367 Jeff |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
shimano freehub questions
Jeff, thanks for the info. First, sorry for the confusion. My use of the
term "freehub" is consistent with this page: http://www.parktool.com/repair_help/..._freehub.shtml I mean the black hub the cassette sprockets are installed on. I have binding on the freehub body with no cassette installed. My understanding is that the bearings inside the freehub body are very small compared to wheel hub bearings for example. Thus my initial suspicion that I may have over torqued it on the first install. When you say something is lodged in the cassette cogs, are you referring to the ratchet mechanism inside the freehub body? Or the actual cassette cogs (ie. sprockets). If the latter, there are no sprockets installed and I still feel the binding. It's definitely internal to the freehub body. I'll try to remove the freehub body from one of the spare hubs and see how far I get. Thanks again. -Peter PS - I live in Canada so I'll try a few local shops but I'm not too optimistic. The hub is quite old school (Shimano 600, 7 speed). Not sure I'll have much luck sourcing a new freehub body. "JeffWills" wrote in message oups.com... peter z wrote: Hi Everyone, While swapping the cassette on my old Shimano 600 7 speed hub, I seem to have damaged the freehub. Namely, it seems to bind somewhat when I spin it. In order to swap cassettes I used the procedure at http://www.parktool.com/repair_help/FAQcogs.shtml using the FR-5 Park tool. I used my skewer to sung up the tool and then used a 1" wrench and chain whip to loosen the lock ring. Upon reassembly, I used only the 1" wrench (FR-5 snugged up using skewer). I didn't use a torque wrench but I don't think I torqued too much. In any event, now my freehub is binding and does not spin as freely as the freehubs on a couple of spare hubs I have. I'll presume that you think you've damaged the cassette body, not the "freehub". "Freehub" is Shimano argot for the entire unit. In my experience, it's very hard to damage the Shimano cassette body. At least, I've never hurt one in 15 years of kitbashing Shimano hubs, including many, many cassette swaps and a number of body transplants. I would suspect that something has become lodged under the cassette cogs and is rubbing on the aluminum hub body. How easy is it to damage the freehub using this technique? The only step from above that I can see would cause the binding is the final tightening of the cassette lock ring, is that the likely cause? Since I have the spare hubs, how can I remove the freehub from one of them? They are both unlaced so I'm not sure how to resist the torque required to loosen the 10mm freehub bolt. Any ideas? I've removed cassette bodys from unlaced hubs (on the living room coffee table, if you must know). The hold-down bolt is not incredibly tight- usually it can be loosened with a short, sharp, shock. Dig it? If you're removing the cassette body from a hub that you're not planning on saving, hold the hub at the flange with a large pipe wrench. After transplantation, it would be good to tighten the body on the "new" hub after the wheel is built. I've got wheels where I have not done this (and they're still intact), but it would be good to make sure the proper torque is applied. Park Tool recommends 300 to 400 inch-pounds (25 to 34 foot-pounds): http://www.parktool.com/repair_help/torque.shtml Lastly, does anyone know where to get a new freehub for the Shimano 600 hubs if I can't free one of my spares? I see that Nashbar does not list this part at all for example. Are they easy to get? Presuming you're in the U.S., any bike shop should be able to order one through Quality Bicycle products: http://harriscyclery.net/site/page.c...=481&Brand=367 Jeff |
#4
|
|||
|
|||
shimano freehub questions
peter z wrote: Jeff, thanks for the info. First, sorry for the confusion. My use of the term "freehub" is consistent with this page: http://www.parktool.com/repair_help/..._freehub.shtml I mean the black hub the cassette sprockets are installed on. I have binding on the freehub body with no cassette installed. My understanding is that the bearings inside the freehub body are very small compared to wheel hub bearings for example. Thus my initial suspicion that I may have over torqued it on the first install. There's really no way to damage the cassette-body bearings when you remove or reinstall a cassette on a Shimano hub. When you say something is lodged in the cassette cogs, are you referring to the ratchet mechanism inside the freehub body? Or the actual cassette cogs (ie. sprockets). If the latter, there are no sprockets installed and I still feel the binding. It's definitely internal to the freehub body. Given those symptoms, I would suspect debris in the cassette body itself. The Park web page gives you good instructions on how to clean it out. I'll try to remove the freehub body from one of the spare hubs and see how far I get. Thanks again. -Peter PS - I live in Canada so I'll try a few local shops but I'm not too optimistic. The hub is quite old school (Shimano 600, 7 speed). Not sure I'll have much luck sourcing a new freehub body. Hmmm... yeah, 7-speed stuff is hard to get. However, Shimano cassette bodies are *somewhat* interchangeable. I've put new 8-speed bodies on old 7-speed shells without a problem. It helps if you're looking at similar hubs- road to road, ATB to ATB. A 7-speed cassette will work on an 8-speed body if you put a 1-millimeter spacer on before the cassette. Sad as it may be, you might just have to "upgrade". :-/ Jeff Jeff |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
Shimano 7700 vs. HG-92 chain questions | Larry Coon | Techniques | 14 | October 13th 04 04:44 AM |
SImano Uniglide update questions | Dave Mayer | Techniques | 10 | October 5th 04 09:44 AM |
Why is Shimano so hated by some? | Evan Evans | Techniques | 342 | February 9th 04 11:22 PM |
WTB: Campy brake levers- All Shimano goes. | Paul Kopit | Techniques | 7 | August 4th 03 02:07 PM |
ICYCLES Inventory List | ICYCLES | Marketplace | 0 | July 26th 03 08:25 PM |