Chain Failure

On Feb 6, 2:54*pm, "(PeteCresswell)" wrote:
Anybody want to speculate on the cause of this one?

http://tinyurl.com/6u6qm6c

Looks like it split on the M of the SRAM branding. There's a thumbs
up for my Chinese Redstar chain, no branding stamping.


I discovered it when the chain dropped under light pedaling.
Thought "geeze, that thing wasn't loose enough to do that...
let's take a look..." * and there it was. *Not quite as nasty as
the pic bc at that point I figured maybe I could nurse it home
with really light pedaling... but no-go and the pic shows it
after it dropped the second time.

Yeah, the chain overall is pretty nasty - but that's bc I ran out
of ProLink a few months ago and got the bright idea of lubing it
with motor oil. * Live and learn....

This chain not unduly worn per the Rohloff chain gauge I put on
it and it has never seen a chain tool... ever.

It was on my SS, so there was no possibility of it's having been
weakened by a der crash and the rear cog is far enough away from
the stay that there's no possibility of it having been wedged.

I've got a theory, but don't want to pollute the answer space
yet.
--
Pete Cresswell

Per Ronko:
Brand of chain?

SRAM. PC-48 or PC-850, didn't notice which.
--
Pete Cresswell

On Mon, 06 Feb 2012 12:16:04 -0500, Ron Hardin
wrote:

A flaw in the original chain.

Lack of lube and cleaning wears the pins leading to chain stretch, not the side
plates.

I never lube mine unless it's gotten wet, in which case it's wd40 followed by
3-in-1, but any oil works. Typically they last until it's necessary to replace
the chainwheel and cogs, and then I replace them all.

A hardly-oiled chain gets less dirty, for what that's worth.

All I could think was: That is one DISGUSTING chain. CLEAN that
puppy! Well, maybe not that one, but it's replacement.

On Feb 6, 8:19*am, kolldata wrote:
1 *)solar wind

2) dirt

3) lack of correct maintenance

i agree with choice 1.

Per Dark Helmet:

All I could think was: That is one DISGUSTING chain. CLEAN that
puppy! Well, maybe not that one, but it's replacement.

Yeah, that was my reaction too. I just trashed it - figuring if
one link could go others were suspect.

It shows what happens when one uses motor oil to lube a chain.

I usually use ProLink - and my other chains stay reasonably clean
and can be cleaned up even more just with a shop rag.
--
Pete Cresswell

wrote in message
...
On Feb 6, 8:19 am, kolldata wrote:
1 )solar wind

2) dirt

3) lack of correct maintenance

i agree with choice 1.


........directed by malevolent aliens.

"Phil W Lee" wrote in message
news
"(PeteCresswell)" considered Mon, 13 Feb 2012 10:07:15
-0500 the perfect time to write:

Per Dark Helmet:

All I could think was: That is one DISGUSTING chain. CLEAN that
puppy! Well, maybe not that one, but it's replacement.

Yeah, that was my reaction too. I just trashed it - figuring if
one link could go others were suspect.

It shows what happens when one uses motor oil to lube a chain.

I usually use ProLink - and my other chains stay reasonably clean
and can be cleaned up even more just with a shop rag.

There's nothing wrong with motor oil, provided you use it as the maker
intended - warmed to 90°C, circulated with a pump in a closed circuit
within a protected environment, and run through a filter regularly.


IWHT gear oil with its high film strength might be a better choice - the
additives for large temperature range and combustion products in engine oil
are largely irrelevant for chain use.

"Phil W Lee" wrote in message
...
"Ian Field" considered Tue, 14 Feb
2012 13:22:59 -0000 the perfect time to write:


"Phil W Lee" wrote in message
news
"(PeteCresswell)" considered Mon, 13 Feb 2012 10:07:15
-0500 the perfect time to write:

Per Dark Helmet:

All I could think was: That is one DISGUSTING chain. CLEAN that
puppy! Well, maybe not that one, but it's replacement.

Yeah, that was my reaction too. I just trashed it - figuring if
one link could go others were suspect.

It shows what happens when one uses motor oil to lube a chain.

I usually use ProLink - and my other chains stay reasonably clean
and can be cleaned up even more just with a shop rag.

There's nothing wrong with motor oil, provided you use it as the maker
intended - warmed to 90°C, circulated with a pump in a closed circuit
within a protected environment, and run through a filter regularly.


IWHT gear oil with its high film strength might be a better choice - the
additives for large temperature range and combustion products in engine
oil
are largely irrelevant for chain use.

Indeed.
The makers of the "scottoiler" recommend that if their own proprietary
oil is not available, gear oil is a valid substitute - EP90, iirc.
It does make for a messy chain though.


Apparently the principle of the Scottoiler is that excess oil is flung off
the chain at speed - taking the crud with it.

"Phil W Lee" wrote in message
...
"Ian Field" considered Tue, 14 Feb
2012 15:36:50 -0000 the perfect time to write:


"Phil W Lee" wrote in message
. ..
"Ian Field" considered Tue, 14 Feb
2012 13:22:59 -0000 the perfect time to write:


"Phil W Lee" wrote in message
news "(PeteCresswell)" considered Mon, 13 Feb 2012 10:07:15
-0500 the perfect time to write:

Per Dark Helmet:

All I could think was: That is one DISGUSTING chain. CLEAN that
puppy! Well, maybe not that one, but it's replacement.

Yeah, that was my reaction too. I just trashed it - figuring if
one link could go others were suspect.

It shows what happens when one uses motor oil to lube a chain.

I usually use ProLink - and my other chains stay reasonably clean
and can be cleaned up even more just with a shop rag.

There's nothing wrong with motor oil, provided you use it as the maker
intended - warmed to 90°C, circulated with a pump in a closed circuit
within a protected environment, and run through a filter regularly.


IWHT gear oil with its high film strength might be a better choice - the
additives for large temperature range and combustion products in engine
oil
are largely irrelevant for chain use.

Indeed.
The makers of the "scottoiler" recommend that if their own proprietary
oil is not available, gear oil is a valid substitute - EP90, iirc.
It does make for a messy chain though.


Apparently the principle of the Scottoiler is that excess oil is flung off
the chain at speed - taking the crud with it.

And over everything else in the vicinity. There's a fine line between
enough flow and too much, and it's a system best described as
"external splash", to borrow a phrase from LJK Setright.


I prefer to think of it as rust prevention.

Per Ian Field:
And over everything else in the vicinity. There's a fine line between
enough flow and too much, and it's a system best described as
"external splash", to borrow a phrase from LJK Setright.


I prefer to think of it as rust prevention.


British Rust Proofing: Oil Seals.
--
Pete Cresswell