custom wheels

Jay Beattie wrote:

I wouldn't consider a $99 frame a new-fangled piece of expensive
designer toy. That's less than your powder coat. But, hey, if you
love your frame, that's great.

No, sorry, $99 reads like a misprint to me. Still, that would describe
a frame I would be biased against, a big trade down. Maybe functional,
but that's what I'm now riding.

The braze-ons cost me a little, but the powder coating was done by a
friend in barter. The frame was a gift, the components came off a '78
Pinarello that I had been riding for nearly 20 years prior.

Basically, wheels, tires, pedals & chain and I'm riding something I
should be moving noticeably faster with the same effort.

It sounds like your frame got re-spaced to 130mm, so you will have the
usual tension imbalance. You might want to consider an OC rim, but I
don't know what available in the 450-500g-ish range. I just think at
your weight, grinding those gears, you should skip 2X on the NDS.
Maybe Muzi could chime in.

Those are the comments I am considering. I am pretty much set on the
bike itself. My original request was for a 48 OPS 4X or 5X rear and a
36 4X front, running 700C x 28-32 tires. The Italvega has the
clearances for the 32s, unlike my old Pinarello. Availability,
practicality, suitability / durability & final cost being decided upon,
getting options from a mechanic I consider very competent.

Watch for the cranks. I broke a bunch of those, probably four or five
while riding in the 190-200lb range. I was sorting through all my old
crap yesterday, getting ready to make a donation to the Community
Cycling Center here in PDX, and I found a 177.5 and a 172.5 -- both
left side, meaning I broke the right arms. I think Jobst broke a dozen
of those.

Noted.

Now that you have 130mm spacing, you can go with anything you want up
to a 11sp, ignoring for a moment chain issues. Why just 8? More gears
are good when you have to lug a lot up hill, fit or not. Corn cobs
are passe. 9 speed chains are plenty durable. 44/24 seems a little
high, unless you live where its flat. Even the pros are using 39/23
in the hills -- if not a lot lower for the nose bleed climbs on the
Giro.

The pro's have different goals, and physiologically, I had more in
common with an NFL lineman than a pro cyclist.

Most of my riding has been in Florida, although NC, SC and GA used to
get visits. Rode the Assault on Mt Mitchell and the Bridge to Bridge
using a 44 / 28 (42 inch) low (yeah, crunching, not spinning), here the
66 low sufficed with most riding 70-90 inch range. Our hills can be
steep, but short. Currently do most riding in the 50-65 range on the
fat tires when on pavement. With bilateral knee surface replacement 4
years ago, figure I'll be needing some lower gearing, suspect the
climbing challenges are history, wind being the likely obstacle.
Cadence 80-ish.

Curtis

On May 13, 4:11*pm, Curtis wrote:
Jay Beattie wrote:
I wouldn't consider a $99 frame a new-fangled piece of expensive
designer toy. *That's less than your powder coat. *But, hey, if you
love your frame, that's great.

* * * * No, sorry, $99 reads like a misprint to me. *Still, that would describe
a frame I would be biased against, a big trade down. *Maybe functional,
but that's what I'm now riding.

* * * * The braze-ons cost me a little, but the powder coating was done by a
friend in barter. *The frame was a gift, the components came off a '78
Pinarello that I had been riding for nearly 20 years prior.

* * * * Basically, wheels, tires, pedals & chain and I'm riding something I
should be moving noticeably faster with the same effort.

It sounds like your frame got re-spaced to 130mm, so you will have the
usual tension imbalance. *You might want to consider an OC rim, but I
don't know what available in the 450-500g-ish range. I just think at
your weight, grinding those gears, you should skip 2X on the NDS.
Maybe Muzi could chime in.

* * * * Those are the comments I am considering. *I am pretty much set on the
bike itself. *My original request was for a 48 OPS 4X or 5X rear and a
36 4X front, running 700C x 28-32 tires. *The Italvega has the
clearances for the 32s, unlike my old Pinarello. *Availability,
practicality, suitability / durability & final cost being decided upon,
getting options from a mechanic I consider very competent.

Watch for the cranks. I broke a bunch of those, probably four or five
while riding in the 190-200lb range. *I was sorting through all my old
crap yesterday, getting ready to make a donation to the Community
Cycling Center here in PDX, and I found a 177.5 and a 172.5 -- both
left side, meaning I broke the right arms. I think Jobst broke a dozen
of those.

* * * * Noted.

Now that you have 130mm spacing, you can go with anything you want up
to a 11sp, ignoring for a moment chain issues. Why just 8? More gears
are good when you have to lug a lot up hill, fit or not. *Corn cobs
are passe. 9 speed chains are plenty durable. 44/24 seems a little
high, unless you live where its flat. *Even the pros are using 39/23
in the hills -- if not a lot lower for the nose bleed climbs on the
Giro.

* * * * *The pro's have different goals, and physiologically, I had more in
common with an NFL lineman than a pro cyclist.

* * * * Most of my riding has been in Florida, although NC, SC and GA used to
get visits. *Rode the Assault on Mt Mitchell and the Bridge to Bridge
using a 44 / 28 (42 inch) low (yeah, crunching, not spinning), here the
66 low sufficed with most riding 70-90 inch range. *Our hills can be
steep, but short. *Currently do most riding in the 50-65 range on the
fat tires when on pavement. *With bilateral knee surface replacement 4
years ago, figure I'll be needing some lower gearing, suspect the
climbing challenges are history, wind being the likely obstacle.
Cadence 80-ish.

Curtis

Base your riding on a low cadence of 85rpm for low effort.
Sustainable "aerobic" maximum power is usually around 118rpm,
sprinting and downhill runs can go over 200rpm. I have taken sprint
cadence repeatedly to around 238rpm. For flat lands, it is a rarity
to use an 81" gear unless the lead rider(s) is/are either well-
conditioned racers or is/are killing himself/themselves. Anything
from 55 to 75 is more usual.

Take it easy, save your muscles, your bones and your life.

On 5/12/2013 10:16 AM, Andre Jute wrote:
On Sunday, May 12, 2013 8:03:22 AM UTC+1, thirty-six wrote:
On May 12, 4:04 am, Curtis wrote:

Mentioned when I started reading this group I am a returning

cyclist. Well, am progressing well in my re-found interest.



In the past 14 months, my weight has dropped from a high of 415 to

under 280, and I'm still losing. Expecting to stabilize at about 250,

but that will depend on final muscle mass, (I'm already quite happy).

Was going to wait until I reached the lower weight, but have decided to

return my old road bike to service by Father's Day, looking forward to

being able to century again by year's end. Figure fat tires won't get

me there, (although expect to keep the current one active as I've

discovered the joys of leaving pavement behind, something I never tried

in my past).



Bike is a '72 Italvega road racing frame, Columbus steel, 72/72 w/ 1

1/4" rake. Looking to replace my old wheels with customs built to

handle my weight. Had a 48 spoke rear built for my "cruiser" I've been

riding. My mechanic assures me that 36 / 3X F, 2X-4X R with modern rims

will serve me very well. Planning on running 700C x 28.



Comments?



Curtis



36 spokes is sufficient in 14swg on rims probably of 480g or over.

Just don't ride too agressively until that weight has fallen off. If

you can get a 32mm tyre in there, it makes for a better ride when the

road is not so perfect. For a 32mm tyre, for best performance the

rim should be about 23mm between walls, about 28mm outside width.

Really, Trevor? Where do you get these wonderfully wide rims? Most of what I see is 16mm over the beads, at most 19mm. It is a hell of a business getting any 24 or 25mm across-the-beads rims such as I prefer for my 622x60 Big Apples.

Andre Jute

Look in the rabbit hole for a wide rim.

http://surlybikes.com/parts/rabbit_hole

--
T0m $herm@n

On 5/12/2013 9:37 PM, Jay Beattie wrote:
Stopped at Universal on the way home and got a quick link for the new
10 speed chain. What an amazing shop. You could spend hours just
looking through all the stuff.

Or making friends with the shop cats.

https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/165290_10151368355876957_144241516_n.jpg

--
T0m $herm@n

On Tuesday, May 14, 2013 7:43:30 AM UTC+1, T0m $herman wrote:
On 5/12/2013 10:16 AM, Andre Jute wrote:

On Sunday, May 12, 2013 8:03:22 AM UTC+1, thirty-six wrote:

On May 12, 4:04 am, Curtis wrote:



Mentioned when I started reading this group I am a returning



cyclist. Well, am progressing well in my re-found interest.







In the past 14 months, my weight has dropped from a high of 415 to



under 280, and I'm still losing. Expecting to stabilize at about 250,



but that will depend on final muscle mass, (I'm already quite happy).



Was going to wait until I reached the lower weight, but have decided to



return my old road bike to service by Father's Day, looking forward to



being able to century again by year's end. Figure fat tires won't get



me there, (although expect to keep the current one active as I've



discovered the joys of leaving pavement behind, something I never tried



in my past).







Bike is a '72 Italvega road racing frame, Columbus steel, 72/72 w/ 1



1/4" rake. Looking to replace my old wheels with customs built to



handle my weight. Had a 48 spoke rear built for my "cruiser" I've been



riding. My mechanic assures me that 36 / 3X F, 2X-4X R with modern rims



will serve me very well. Planning on running 700C x 28.







Comments?







Curtis







36 spokes is sufficient in 14swg on rims probably of 480g or over.



Just don't ride too agressively until that weight has fallen off. If



you can get a 32mm tyre in there, it makes for a better ride when the



road is not so perfect. For a 32mm tyre, for best performance the



rim should be about 23mm between walls, about 28mm outside width.



Really, Trevor? Where do you get these wonderfully wide rims? Most of what I see is 16mm over the beads, at most 19mm. It is a hell of a business getting any 24 or 25mm across-the-beads rims such as I prefer for my 622x60 Big Apples.



Andre Jute



Look in the rabbit hole for a wide rim.



http://surlybikes.com/parts/rabbit_hole



--

T0m $herm@n

I use Magure hydraulic rim brakes. The Rabbit Hole rim is disc brake only. -- Andre Jute

On Tue, 14 May 2013 02:00:24 -0500, T0m $herman wrote:

On 5/12/2013 9:37 PM, Jay Beattie wrote:
Stopped at Universal on the way home and got a quick link for the new
10 speed chain. What an amazing shop. You could spend hours just
looking through all the stuff.

Or making friends with the shop cats.

https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-
prn2/165290_10151368355876957_144241516_n.jpg

It all becomes clear! Have you ever seen "Withnail and I"?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-NeBfY6U4n8
--
davethedave

On 15/05/13 06:40, davethedave wrote:
On Tue, 14 May 2013 02:00:24 -0500, T0m $herman wrote:

On 5/12/2013 9:37 PM, Jay Beattie wrote:
Stopped at Universal on the way home and got a quick link for the new
10 speed chain. What an amazing shop. You could spend hours just
looking through all the stuff.

Or making friends with the shop cats.

https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-
prn2/165290_10151368355876957_144241516_n.jpg

It all becomes clear! Have you ever seen "Withnail and I"?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-NeBfY6U4n8

LOL. Thanks.

--
JS

On Saturday, May 11, 2013 9:04:19 PM UTC-6, Curtis wrote:
Mentioned when I started reading this group I am a returning

cyclist. Well, am progressing well in my re-found interest.



In the past 14 months, my weight has dropped from a high of 415 to

under 280, and I'm still losing. Expecting to stabilize at about 250,

but that will depend on final muscle mass, (I'm already quite happy).

Was going to wait until I reached the lower weight, but have decided to

return my old road bike to service by Father's Day, looking forward to

being able to century again by year's end. Figure fat tires won't get

me there, (although expect to keep the current one active as I've

discovered the joys of leaving pavement behind, something I never tried

in my past).



Bike is a '72 Italvega road racing frame, Columbus steel, 72/72 w/ 1

1/4" rake. Looking to replace my old wheels with customs built to

handle my weight. Had a 48 spoke rear built for my "cruiser" I've been

riding. My mechanic assures me that 36 / 3X F, 2X-4X R with modern rims

will serve me very well. Planning on running 700C x 28.





Comments?



Curtis

Forget custom wheels. These are indestructible: http://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product...72_-1___202478
You could probably put 4 of these on a car.
When you get them, go around squeezing parallel spoke pairs to stress relieve them.
If for any reason the can't handle your weight, you can return them to nashbar and they will give you a full refund.

On May 14, 11:18*am, Andre Jute wrote:
On Tuesday, May 14, 2013 7:43:30 AM UTC+1, T0m $herman wrote:
On 5/12/2013 10:16 AM, Andre Jute wrote:

On Sunday, May 12, 2013 8:03:22 AM UTC+1, thirty-six wrote:

On May 12, 4:04 am, Curtis wrote:

* * *Mentioned when I started reading this group I am a returning

cyclist. *Well, am progressing well in my re-found interest.

* * *In the past 14 months, my weight has dropped from a high of 415 to

under 280, and I'm still losing. *Expecting to stabilize at about 250,

but that will depend on final muscle mass, (I'm already quite happy).

Was going to wait until I reached the lower weight, but have decided to

return my old road bike to service by Father's Day, looking forward to

being able to century again by year's end. *Figure fat tires won't get

me there, (although expect to keep the current one active as I've

discovered the joys of leaving pavement behind, something I never tried

in my past).

* * *Bike is a '72 Italvega road racing frame, Columbus steel, 72/72 w/ 1

1/4" rake. *Looking to replace my old wheels with customs built to

handle my weight. *Had a 48 spoke rear built for my "cruiser" I've been

riding. *My mechanic assures me that 36 / 3X F, 2X-4X R with modern rims

will serve me very well. *Planning on running 700C x 28.

Comments?

Curtis

36 spokes is sufficient in 14swg *on rims probably of 480g or over..

Just don't ride too agressively until that weight has fallen off. * If

you can get a 32mm tyre in there, it makes for a better ride when the

road is not so perfect. * For a 32mm tyre, for best performance the

rim should be about 23mm between walls, about 28mm outside width.

Really, Trevor? Where do you get these wonderfully wide rims? Most of what I see is 16mm over the beads, at most 19mm. It is a hell of a business getting any 24 or 25mm across-the-beads rims such as I prefer for my 622x60 Big Apples.

Andre Jute

Look in the rabbit hole for a wide rim.

http://surlybikes.com/parts/rabbit_hole

--

T0m $herm@n

I use Magure hydraulic rim brakes. The Rabbit Hole rim is disc brake only.. -- Andre Jute

so no good for hub brakes then? what a pity.

On Thursday, May 16, 2013 2:38:37 AM UTC+1, thirty-six wrote:
On May 14, 11:18*am, Andre Jute wrote:

On Tuesday, May 14, 2013 7:43:30 AM UTC+1, T0m $herman wrote:

On 5/12/2013 10:16 AM, Andre Jute wrote:



On Sunday, May 12, 2013 8:03:22 AM UTC+1, thirty-six wrote:



On May 12, 4:04 am, Curtis wrote:



* * *Mentioned when I started reading this group I am a returning



cyclist. *Well, am progressing well in my re-found interest.



* * *In the past 14 months, my weight has dropped from a high of 415 to



under 280, and I'm still losing. *Expecting to stabilize at about 250,



but that will depend on final muscle mass, (I'm already quite happy).



Was going to wait until I reached the lower weight, but have decided to



return my old road bike to service by Father's Day, looking forward to



being able to century again by year's end. *Figure fat tires won't get



me there, (although expect to keep the current one active as I've



discovered the joys of leaving pavement behind, something I never tried



in my past).



* * *Bike is a '72 Italvega road racing frame, Columbus steel, 72/72 w/ 1



1/4" rake. *Looking to replace my old wheels with customs built to



handle my weight. *Had a 48 spoke rear built for my "cruiser" I've been



riding. *My mechanic assures me that 36 / 3X F, 2X-4X R with modern rims



will serve me very well. *Planning on running 700C x 28.



Comments?



Curtis



36 spokes is sufficient in 14swg *on rims probably of 480g or over.



Just don't ride too agressively until that weight has fallen off. * If



you can get a 32mm tyre in there, it makes for a better ride when the



road is not so perfect. * For a 32mm tyre, for best performance the



rim should be about 23mm between walls, about 28mm outside width.



Really, Trevor? Where do you get these wonderfully wide rims? Most of what I see is 16mm over the beads, at most 19mm. It is a hell of a business getting any 24 or 25mm across-the-beads rims such as I prefer for my 622x60 Big Apples.



Andre Jute



Look in the rabbit hole for a wide rim.



http://surlybikes.com/parts/rabbit_hole



--



T0m $herm@n



I use Magure hydraulic rim brakes. The Rabbit Hole rim is disc brake only. -- Andre Jute



so no good for hub brakes then? what a pity.

A disc brake is a hub brake, or at least fitted to a hub. Shimano also makes a hub brake called a roller brake of which I have extensive experience. I prefer them to discs, for instance. They would work with these rims. But above all, for smooth modulation, I like Magura's rim hydraulics, and those would most definitely not work with the rim Liddell Tommi suggested.

Andre Jute