custom wheels

Mentioned when I started reading this group I am a returning
cyclist. Well, am progressing well in my re-found interest.

In the past 14 months, my weight has dropped from a high of 415 to
under 280, and I'm still losing. Expecting to stabilize at about 250,
but that will depend on final muscle mass, (I'm already quite happy).
Was going to wait until I reached the lower weight, but have decided to
return my old road bike to service by Father's Day, looking forward to
being able to century again by year's end. Figure fat tires won't get
me there, (although expect to keep the current one active as I've
discovered the joys of leaving pavement behind, something I never tried
in my past).

Bike is a '72 Italvega road racing frame, Columbus steel, 72/72 w/ 1
1/4" rake. Looking to replace my old wheels with customs built to
handle my weight. Had a 48 spoke rear built for my "cruiser" I've been
riding. My mechanic assures me that 36 / 3X F, 2X-4X R with modern rims
will serve me very well. Planning on running 700C x 28.


Comments?

Curtis

On May 12, 4:04*am, Curtis wrote:
* * Mentioned when I started reading this group I am a returning
cyclist. *Well, am progressing well in my re-found interest.

* * In the past 14 months, my weight has dropped from a high of 415 to
under 280, and I'm still losing. *Expecting to stabilize at about 250,
but that will depend on final muscle mass, (I'm already quite happy).
Was going to wait until I reached the lower weight, but have decided to
return my old road bike to service by Father's Day, looking forward to
being able to century again by year's end. *Figure fat tires won't get
me there, (although expect to keep the current one active as I've
discovered the joys of leaving pavement behind, something I never tried
in my past).

* * Bike is a '72 Italvega road racing frame, Columbus steel, 72/72 w/ 1
1/4" rake. *Looking to replace my old wheels with customs built to
handle my weight. *Had a 48 spoke rear built for my "cruiser" I've been
riding. *My mechanic assures me that 36 / 3X F, 2X-4X R with modern rims
will serve me very well. *Planning on running 700C x 28.

Comments?

Curtis

36 spokes is sufficient in 14swg on rims probably of 480g or over.
Just don't ride too agressively until that weight has fallen off. If
you can get a 32mm tyre in there, it makes for a better ride when the
road is not so perfect. For a 32mm tyre, for best performance the
rim should be about 23mm between walls, about 28mm outside width.

On May 11, 11:04*pm, Curtis wrote:

Was going to wait until I reached the lower weight, but have decided to
return my old road bike to service by Father's Day, looking forward to
being able to century again by year's end. *Figure fat tires won't get
me there, (although expect to keep the current one active as I've
discovered the joys of leaving pavement behind, something I never tried
in my past).

When I was in training I rode fat tires (and wore a t-shirt) on the
theory more resistance = more exercise (and far fewer flats so I spent
more time exercising harder).
-----

- gpsman

photo ?

https://www.google.com/search?hl=en&...mg.sKPE21QquvM

try Sun double wall rims.

lune hub/spoke junctures with Finish Line wax/teflon dry lube
in and outside.

read Armstrongs fitness books

try intervals

drink water

On Sunday, May 12, 2013 1:31:44 PM UTC+1, gpsman wrote:
On May 11, 11:04*pm, Curtis wrote:



Was going to wait until I reached the lower weight, but have decided to

return my old road bike to service by Father's Day, looking forward to

being able to century again by year's end. *Figure fat tires won't get

me there, (although expect to keep the current one active as I've

discovered the joys of leaving pavement behind, something I never tried

in my past).



When I was in training I rode fat tires (and wore a t-shirt) on the

theory more resistance = more exercise (and far fewer flats so I spent

more time exercising harder).

-----



- gpsman

Absolutely. On the same principle I don't slim the stuff in the bags on my bike, or half-fill the water bottle, or perpetrate any other weight-saving tricks. The more weight I haul, the better for my health. And the faster I bomb downhill!

Andre Jute

On Sunday, May 12, 2013 8:03:22 AM UTC+1, thirty-six wrote:
On May 12, 4:04*am, Curtis wrote:

* * Mentioned when I started reading this group I am a returning

cyclist. *Well, am progressing well in my re-found interest.



* * In the past 14 months, my weight has dropped from a high of 415 to

under 280, and I'm still losing. *Expecting to stabilize at about 250,

but that will depend on final muscle mass, (I'm already quite happy).

Was going to wait until I reached the lower weight, but have decided to

return my old road bike to service by Father's Day, looking forward to

being able to century again by year's end. *Figure fat tires won't get

me there, (although expect to keep the current one active as I've

discovered the joys of leaving pavement behind, something I never tried

in my past).



* * Bike is a '72 Italvega road racing frame, Columbus steel, 72/72 w/ 1

1/4" rake. *Looking to replace my old wheels with customs built to

handle my weight. *Had a 48 spoke rear built for my "cruiser" I've been

riding. *My mechanic assures me that 36 / 3X F, 2X-4X R with modern rims

will serve me very well. *Planning on running 700C x 28.



Comments?



Curtis



36 spokes is sufficient in 14swg on rims probably of 480g or over.

Just don't ride too agressively until that weight has fallen off. If

you can get a 32mm tyre in there, it makes for a better ride when the

road is not so perfect. For a 32mm tyre, for best performance the

rim should be about 23mm between walls, about 28mm outside width.

Really, Trevor? Where do you get these wonderfully wide rims? Most of what I see is 16mm over the beads, at most 19mm. It is a hell of a business getting any 24 or 25mm across-the-beads rims such as I prefer for my 622x60 Big Apples.

Andre Jute

On May 11, 8:04*pm, Curtis wrote:
* * Mentioned when I started reading this group I am a returning
cyclist. *Well, am progressing well in my re-found interest.

* * In the past 14 months, my weight has dropped from a high of 415 to
under 280, and I'm still losing. *Expecting to stabilize at about 250,
but that will depend on final muscle mass, (I'm already quite happy).
Was going to wait until I reached the lower weight, but have decided to
return my old road bike to service by Father's Day, looking forward to
being able to century again by year's end. *Figure fat tires won't get
me there, (although expect to keep the current one active as I've
discovered the joys of leaving pavement behind, something I never tried
in my past).

* * Bike is a '72 Italvega road racing frame, Columbus steel, 72/72 w/ 1
1/4" rake. *Looking to replace my old wheels with customs built to
handle my weight. *Had a 48 spoke rear built for my "cruiser" I've been
riding. *My mechanic assures me that 36 / 3X F, 2X-4X R with modern rims
will serve me very well. *Planning on running 700C x 28.

Why is your mechanic recommending a mixed spoke pattern? 4X or 3X has
better torque transmission and lateral stiffness than 2X, and tension
imbalance in a 120mm/5sp wheel is not dramatic. Use some spoke prep.
You should get a good deep section 480-500g-ish rim like a Velocity
Dyad or something along those lines. Period appropriate would be Phil
40 hole/4X on Super Champion Mod 58.

Personally, I would skip the retro racing frame and go with something
more modern - like a $99 Nashbar 6061 frame or one of the zillion
cheap Kinesis Al frames with tire clearance. An SL frame for someone
north of 250 is going to feel noodly under hard pedaling, IMO. You
also get to skip the Italian BBs, 5sp, quill stems, etc. Get something
more upright to accommodate your back and shrinking gut, particularly
for century riding I love looking at the old steel bikes hanging up
at my local shop. I owned some of them. I'd never want to ride one
again -- too short in the TT and HT, too limber in the BB and heavy.
In a 63cm, they also look too leggy. I've grown accustomed to the look
of OS tubes, but that's just me.

-- Jay Beattie.

On 5/12/13 9:54 AM, datakoll wrote:
photo ?

Nah, besides, the weight description is for illustrating bike
stress, not fitness issues. Numbers alone can be deceiving.

read Armstrongs fitness books

Under surgeon's and doctor's care.

Curtis

On 5/12/2013 11:04 AM, Jay Beattie wrote:
On May 11, 8:04 pm, Curtis wrote:
Mentioned when I started reading this group I am a returning
cyclist. Well, am progressing well in my re-found interest.

In the past 14 months, my weight has dropped from a high of 415 to
under 280, and I'm still losing. Expecting to stabilize at about 250,
but that will depend on final muscle mass, (I'm already quite happy).
Was going to wait until I reached the lower weight, but have decided to
return my old road bike to service by Father's Day, looking forward to
being able to century again by year's end. Figure fat tires won't get
me there, (although expect to keep the current one active as I've
discovered the joys of leaving pavement behind, something I never tried
in my past).

Bike is a '72 Italvega road racing frame, Columbus steel, 72/72 w/ 1
1/4" rake. Looking to replace my old wheels with customs built to
handle my weight. Had a 48 spoke rear built for my "cruiser" I've been
riding. My mechanic assures me that 36 / 3X F, 2X-4X R with modern rims
will serve me very well. Planning on running 700C x 28.

Why is your mechanic recommending a mixed spoke pattern? 4X or 3X has
better torque transmission and lateral stiffness than 2X, and tension
imbalance in a 120mm/5sp wheel is not dramatic. Use some spoke prep.
You should get a good deep section 480-500g-ish rim like a Velocity
Dyad or something along those lines. Period appropriate would be Phil
40 hole/4X on Super Champion Mod 58.

Personally, I would skip the retro racing frame and go with something
more modern - like a $99 Nashbar 6061 frame or one of the zillion
cheap Kinesis Al frames with tire clearance. An SL frame for someone
north of 250 is going to feel noodly under hard pedaling, IMO. You
also get to skip the Italian BBs, 5sp, quill stems, etc. Get something
more upright to accommodate your back and shrinking gut, particularly
for century riding I love looking at the old steel bikes hanging up
at my local shop. I owned some of them. I'd never want to ride one
again -- too short in the TT and HT, too limber in the BB and heavy.
In a 63cm, they also look too leggy. I've grown accustomed to the look
of OS tubes, but that's just me.

-- Jay Beattie.


True, but a 1972 Italvega is pretty; that's a factor too.

Well, unless it's their superduper pro model with a series
of 1/2 inch holes in the Record crank. That would be scary.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

Jay Beattie wrote:

Why is your mechanic recommending a mixed spoke pattern? 4X or 3X has
better torque transmission and lateral stiffness than 2X, and tension
imbalance in a 120mm/5sp wheel is not dramatic. Use some spoke prep.
You should get a good deep section 480-500g-ish rim like a Velocity
Dyad or something along those lines. Period appropriate would be Phil
40 hole/4X on Super Champion Mod 58.

More even spoke tension with dish, and heavy rims a definite.
Cassette hub to bring bearings closer to drop-out, added bonus making a
12 speed into a 16? speed. Have Campy 177.5 with 52/44, old freewheel
13-18, be nice to have a 13-22/24 without sacrificing the 70-85 inch
close increments. Looking for overkill rather than adequate, I stress
equipment with power as well as size.

Personally, I would skip the retro racing frame and go with something
more modern - like a $99 Nashbar 6061 frame or one of the zillion
cheap Kinesis Al frames with tire clearance. An SL frame for someone
north of 250 is going to feel noodly under hard pedaling, IMO. You
also get to skip the Italian BBs, 5sp, quill stems, etc. Get something
more upright to accommodate your back and shrinking gut, particularly
for century riding I love looking at the old steel bikes hanging up
at my local shop. I owned some of them. I'd never want to ride one
again -- too short in the TT and HT, too limber in the BB and heavy.
In a 63cm, they also look too leggy. I've grown accustomed to the look
of OS tubes, but that's just me.

This bike has already proven itself to be well worth returning to
service. Last use was a century ride at approx 275 lbs, retired it at
the time for new interests (technical scuba & martial arts), not health
issues, was quite fit at that size. Bike very comfortable and
responsive, well fit to long torso, long reach and wide shoulders.
Looking to upgrade an excellent piece of machinery, not replace it with
a new-fangled piece of expensive designer toy.


Andrew Muzi wrote

True, but a 1972 Italvega is pretty; that's a factor too.

Yep. Braze-ons added for down tube shifters, 3 water bottles, cable
guides, rack lugs and chain peg, then powder coated with a rack
attached. Not quite like original, but the lines are there. What was
considered road racing geometry in '72 makes for a nice light & fast
tour bike.

Curtis