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#21
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Peugeot PX-10 max cog size?
On Sunday, September 23, 2018 at 7:55:02 AM UTC-7, Joerg wrote:
On 2018-09-22 13:42, jbeattie wrote: On Saturday, September 22, 2018 at 11:40:39 AM UTC-7, Joerg wrote: On 2018-09-21 23:57, Sir Ridesalot wrote: On Friday, September 21, 2018 at 5:34:11 PM UTC-4, Joerg wrote: Snipped He is a machinist and tool & die maker by trade, has a fully equipped garage with lathe, mill and so on. He is building stuff for his various vehicles all the time and made a couple of parts for my MTB so I could build a sturdy rack. 120mm is a pain though, 10mm is a lot of widening. Looks like this one can be shortened by grinding off the outer cog: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Shimano-TZ3...4/322007138705 Snipped Is he going to grind down the body too? He should read Sheldon Brown: https://www.sheldonbrown.com/speeds.html and https://www.sheldonbrown.com/freewheels.html "The freewheel threading on these older hubs is generally interchangeable except for some very old French units. If you go from a 5-speed freewheel to a 6- or 7-speed freewheel, you will usually need to add some spacers to the right end of the axle between the cone and the locknut. Once you have done this, you'll also need to re-dish the wheel to bring the rim back to the centerline. You may need to re-space the frame if you have added spacers to the axle. See my Frame Spacing Article for details on this." Right. I also had to re-dish my rear wheel after UG freehubs were no longer available. It wasn't fun but I got it all done in under an hour including replacing the freehub. "How Many Speeds? Doesn't matter. Actually, the less speeds the better. Really? Wasn't the complaint that he needed more gears to get up and down the monster hills? No, just a much larger cog than is on the corn cob right now. We all become older and often due to a slowing metabolism also heavier. This nonsensical 9-10-11-12 speed craze is unnecessary. Same with me, I always shift across 2-3 gears, or 5-8 on the MTB, in one swoop. However, I do need that 32T in back which I could do without when I was 25. The olde tymie wide step 5sp freewheels weren't much fun with the big jumps. I loved those! Except, of course, that these were prone to axle breaks which I had a lot. My old MTB has 7-speed, the new one has a 10-speed cassette. I did not perceive any advantage whatsoever. It's just that when I bought it they were all 10-speed and I wish they weren't because then the chain would still be a sturdier wide one. ... but it's a better arrangement than the current corn-cob. Also check his crank. Some of the PX10s were spec'd with weird chainring sizes with big small rings. I think mine had a 45t inner or something like that. My road bike has 42T and the smallest available for that set was 39T. So some day I might throw a 40T in back as the largest cog but that would also required a longer cage derailer. ... Again, he could make some good money selling the bike in the collector's market and then go out and buy a nice gravel bike with lots of gears, lighter and stiffer where it matters with even more tire clearance for the gnarly gravel riding that you have to do in the wilds of Cameron Park. There are some really good deals out there on aluminum frame gravel bikes with hydraulic discs. I think updating a mid-fi French bike is a waste of money. If he can get by with throwing on a freewheel, then I would stop there -- otherwise, go shopping. That's also what I'd do. Especially since he is a mountain biker by heart so doesn't want to spend much time fixing a road bike. As for gravel bikes, most of our trails are really not suited for that. Lots of loose rocks and stuff, it won't be fun and likely break the new bike. Even if the gravel bike survives it could result in serious back pain for older riders: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l5cjAW_nrl4 I'm just talking about those urban trails next to roads you show and not technical single track, although I can ride most anything on my gravel bike -- just like Marty, minus the whole paralysis thing: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7ZmJtYaUTa0 IMO, having 11sp is more advantageous now that I'm older and struggling to keep up with others. It's nice to have a gear that I can spin comfortably and not grind or over-spin. When I was young, I could more easily push a gear that was too big. -- Jay Beattie. |
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#22
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Peugeot PX-10 max cog size?
On 9/23/2018 10:54 AM, Joerg wrote:
On 2018-09-22 13:42, jbeattie wrote: On Saturday, September 22, 2018 at 11:40:39 AM UTC-7, Joerg wrote: On 2018-09-21 23:57, Sir Ridesalot wrote: On Friday, September 21, 2018 at 5:34:11 PM UTC-4, Joerg wrote: Snipped He is a machinist and tool & die maker by trade, has a fully equipped garage with lathe, mill and so on. He is building stuff for his various vehicles all the time and made a couple of parts for my MTB so I could build a sturdy rack. 120mm is a pain though, 10mm is a lot of widening. Looks like this one can be shortened by grinding off the outer cog: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Shimano-TZ3...4/322007138705 Snipped Is he going to grind down the body too? He should read Sheldon Brown: https://www.sheldonbrown.com/speeds.html and https://www.sheldonbrown.com/freewheels.html "The freewheel threading on these older hubs is generally interchangeable except for some very old French units. If you go from a 5-speed freewheel to a 6- or 7-speed freewheel, you will usually need to add some spacers to the right end of the axle between the cone and the locknut. Once you have done this, you'll also need to re-dish the wheel to bring the rim back to the centerline. You may need to re-space the frame if you have added spacers to the axle. See my Frame Spacing Article for details on this." Right. I also had to re-dish my rear wheel after UG freehubs were no longer available. It wasn't fun but I got it all done in under an hour including replacing the freehub. "How Many Speeds? Doesn't matter. Actually, the less speeds the better. Really?Â* Wasn't the complaint that he needed more gears to get up and down the monster hills? No, just a much larger cog than is on the corn cob right now. We all become older and often due to a slowing metabolism also heavier. This nonsensical 9-10-11-12 speed craze is unnecessary. Same with me, I always shift across 2-3 gears, or 5-8 on the MTB, in one swoop. However, I do need that 32T in back which I could do without when I was 25. The olde tymie wide step 5sp freewheels weren't much fun with the big jumps. I loved those! Except, of course, that these were prone to axle breaks which I had a lot. My old MTB has 7-speed, the new one has a 10-speed cassette. I did not perceive any advantage whatsoever. It's just that when I bought it they were all 10-speed and I wish they weren't because then the chain would still be a sturdier wide one. Â*... but it's a better arrangement than the current corn-cob.Â* Also check his crank.Â* Some of the PX10s were spec'd with weird chainring sizes with big small rings. I think mine had a 45t inner or something like that. My road bike has 42T and the smallest available for that set was 39T. So some day I might throw a 40T in back as the largest cog but that would also required a longer cage derailer. Â*Â* ... Again, he could make some good money selling the bike in the collector's market and then go out and buy a nice gravel bike with lots of gears, lighter and stiffer where it matters with even more tire clearance for the gnarly gravel riding that you have to do in the wilds of Cameron Park.Â* There are some really good deals out there on aluminum frame gravel bikes with hydraulic discs.Â* I think updating a mid-fi French bike is a waste of money. If he can get by with throwing on a freewheel, then I would stop there -- otherwise, go shopping. That's also what I'd do. Especially since he is a mountain biker by heart so doesn't want to spend much time fixing a road bike. As for gravel bikes, most of our trails are really not suited for that. Lots of loose rocks and stuff, it won't be fun and likely break the new bike. Even if the gravel bike survives it could result in serious back pain for older riders: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l5cjAW_nrl4 https://yarchive.net/bike/mountain_bike.html -- - Frank Krygowski |
#23
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Peugeot PX-10 max cog size?
On 2018-09-23 08:52, jbeattie wrote:
On Sunday, September 23, 2018 at 7:55:02 AM UTC-7, Joerg wrote: On 2018-09-22 13:42, jbeattie wrote: On Saturday, September 22, 2018 at 11:40:39 AM UTC-7, Joerg wrote: On 2018-09-21 23:57, Sir Ridesalot wrote: On Friday, September 21, 2018 at 5:34:11 PM UTC-4, Joerg wrote: Snipped He is a machinist and tool & die maker by trade, has a fully equipped garage with lathe, mill and so on. He is building stuff for his various vehicles all the time and made a couple of parts for my MTB so I could build a sturdy rack. 120mm is a pain though, 10mm is a lot of widening. Looks like this one can be shortened by grinding off the outer cog: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Shimano-TZ3...4/322007138705 Snipped Is he going to grind down the body too? He should read Sheldon Brown: https://www.sheldonbrown.com/speeds.html and https://www.sheldonbrown.com/freewheels.html "The freewheel threading on these older hubs is generally interchangeable except for some very old French units. If you go from a 5-speed freewheel to a 6- or 7-speed freewheel, you will usually need to add some spacers to the right end of the axle between the cone and the locknut. Once you have done this, you'll also need to re-dish the wheel to bring the rim back to the centerline. You may need to re-space the frame if you have added spacers to the axle. See my Frame Spacing Article for details on this." Right. I also had to re-dish my rear wheel after UG freehubs were no longer available. It wasn't fun but I got it all done in under an hour including replacing the freehub. "How Many Speeds? Doesn't matter. Actually, the less speeds the better. Really? Wasn't the complaint that he needed more gears to get up and down the monster hills? No, just a much larger cog than is on the corn cob right now. We all become older and often due to a slowing metabolism also heavier. This nonsensical 9-10-11-12 speed craze is unnecessary. Same with me, I always shift across 2-3 gears, or 5-8 on the MTB, in one swoop. However, I do need that 32T in back which I could do without when I was 25. The olde tymie wide step 5sp freewheels weren't much fun with the big jumps. I loved those! Except, of course, that these were prone to axle breaks which I had a lot. My old MTB has 7-speed, the new one has a 10-speed cassette. I did not perceive any advantage whatsoever. It's just that when I bought it they were all 10-speed and I wish they weren't because then the chain would still be a sturdier wide one. ... but it's a better arrangement than the current corn-cob. Also check his crank. Some of the PX10s were spec'd with weird chainring sizes with big small rings. I think mine had a 45t inner or something like that. My road bike has 42T and the smallest available for that set was 39T. So some day I might throw a 40T in back as the largest cog but that would also required a longer cage derailer. ... Again, he could make some good money selling the bike in the collector's market and then go out and buy a nice gravel bike with lots of gears, lighter and stiffer where it matters with even more tire clearance for the gnarly gravel riding that you have to do in the wilds of Cameron Park. There are some really good deals out there on aluminum frame gravel bikes with hydraulic discs. I think updating a mid-fi French bike is a waste of money. If he can get by with throwing on a freewheel, then I would stop there -- otherwise, go shopping. That's also what I'd do. Especially since he is a mountain biker by heart so doesn't want to spend much time fixing a road bike. As for gravel bikes, most of our trails are really not suited for that. Lots of loose rocks and stuff, it won't be fun and likely break the new bike. Even if the gravel bike survives it could result in serious back pain for older riders: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l5cjAW_nrl4 I'm just talking about those urban trails next to roads you show and not technical single track, although I can ride most anything on my gravel bike ... What I've shown? Like this? http://analogconsultants.com/ng/bike/estavista3.JPG Yes, you can ride than on a gravel bike but it won't be fun and the bike will likely not enjoy a long life. ... -- just like Marty, minus the whole paralysis thing: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7ZmJtYaUTa0 He sure is a talent but I always wondered how many times his stunts went wrong and what the medical costs were. IMO, having 11sp is more advantageous now that I'm older and struggling to keep up with others. It's nice to have a gear that I can spin comfortably and not grind or over-spin. When I was young, I could more easily push a gear that was too big. With age I developed no desire at all to have finer stepped gears but I did for larger cogs in back. I'd be perfectly happy with 3-5 cogs in back as long as I have a 12-32T range. The only reason I ride the "in-between" cogs is to not wear out the most frequently used ones. -- Regards, Joerg http://www.analogconsultants.com/ |
#24
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Peugeot PX-10 max cog size?
On 2018-09-23 09:20, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 9/23/2018 10:54 AM, Joerg wrote: On 2018-09-22 13:42, jbeattie wrote: On Saturday, September 22, 2018 at 11:40:39 AM UTC-7, Joerg wrote: On 2018-09-21 23:57, Sir Ridesalot wrote: On Friday, September 21, 2018 at 5:34:11 PM UTC-4, Joerg wrote: Snipped He is a machinist and tool & die maker by trade, has a fully equipped garage with lathe, mill and so on. He is building stuff for his various vehicles all the time and made a couple of parts for my MTB so I could build a sturdy rack. 120mm is a pain though, 10mm is a lot of widening. Looks like this one can be shortened by grinding off the outer cog: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Shimano-TZ3...4/322007138705 Snipped Is he going to grind down the body too? He should read Sheldon Brown: https://www.sheldonbrown.com/speeds.html and https://www.sheldonbrown.com/freewheels.html "The freewheel threading on these older hubs is generally interchangeable except for some very old French units. If you go from a 5-speed freewheel to a 6- or 7-speed freewheel, you will usually need to add some spacers to the right end of the axle between the cone and the locknut. Once you have done this, you'll also need to re-dish the wheel to bring the rim back to the centerline. You may need to re-space the frame if you have added spacers to the axle. See my Frame Spacing Article for details on this." Right. I also had to re-dish my rear wheel after UG freehubs were no longer available. It wasn't fun but I got it all done in under an hour including replacing the freehub. "How Many Speeds? Doesn't matter. Actually, the less speeds the better. Really? Wasn't the complaint that he needed more gears to get up and down the monster hills? No, just a much larger cog than is on the corn cob right now. We all become older and often due to a slowing metabolism also heavier. This nonsensical 9-10-11-12 speed craze is unnecessary. Same with me, I always shift across 2-3 gears, or 5-8 on the MTB, in one swoop. However, I do need that 32T in back which I could do without when I was 25. The olde tymie wide step 5sp freewheels weren't much fun with the big jumps. I loved those! Except, of course, that these were prone to axle breaks which I had a lot. My old MTB has 7-speed, the new one has a 10-speed cassette. I did not perceive any advantage whatsoever. It's just that when I bought it they were all 10-speed and I wish they weren't because then the chain would still be a sturdier wide one. ... but it's a better arrangement than the current corn-cob. Also check his crank. Some of the PX10s were spec'd with weird chainring sizes with big small rings. I think mine had a 45t inner or something like that. My road bike has 42T and the smallest available for that set was 39T. So some day I might throw a 40T in back as the largest cog but that would also required a longer cage derailer. ... Again, he could make some good money selling the bike in the collector's market and then go out and buy a nice gravel bike with lots of gears, lighter and stiffer where it matters with even more tire clearance for the gnarly gravel riding that you have to do in the wilds of Cameron Park. There are some really good deals out there on aluminum frame gravel bikes with hydraulic discs. I think updating a mid-fi French bike is a waste of money. If he can get by with throwing on a freewheel, then I would stop there -- otherwise, go shopping. That's also what I'd do. Especially since he is a mountain biker by heart so doesn't want to spend much time fixing a road bike. As for gravel bikes, most of our trails are really not suited for that. Lots of loose rocks and stuff, it won't be fun and likely break the new bike. Even if the gravel bike survives it could result in serious back pain for older riders: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l5cjAW_nrl4 https://yarchive.net/bike/mountain_bike.html Quote "That was the lightest frame I owned but I ruined it about 10 years later by descending a forest road that had a fairly short "rolling drain" (a diagonal cross ditch that almost matched the wheel diameter. That incident wrinkled the top and downtube but the bicycle was ridable". 'nuff said. -- Regards, Joerg http://www.analogconsultants.com/ |
#25
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Peugeot PX-10 max cog size?
On 9/23/2018 11:42 AM, Joerg wrote:
On 2018-09-23 08:52, jbeattie wrote: On Sunday, September 23, 2018 at 7:55:02 AM UTC-7, Joerg wrote: On 2018-09-22 13:42, jbeattie wrote: On Saturday, September 22, 2018 at 11:40:39 AM UTC-7, Joerg wrote: On 2018-09-21 23:57, Sir Ridesalot wrote: On Friday, September 21, 2018 at 5:34:11 PM UTC-4, Joerg wrote: Snipped He is a machinist and tool & die maker by trade, has a fully equipped garage with lathe, mill and so on. He is building stuff for his various vehicles all the time and made a couple of parts for my MTB so I could build a sturdy rack. 120mm is a pain though, 10mm is a lot of widening. Looks like this one can be shortened by grinding off the outer cog: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Shimano-TZ3...4/322007138705 Snipped Is he going to grind down the body too? He should read Sheldon Brown: https://www.sheldonbrown.com/speeds.html and https://www.sheldonbrown.com/freewheels.html "The freewheel threading on these older hubs is generally interchangeable except for some very old French units. If you go from a 5-speed freewheel to a 6- or 7-speed freewheel, you will usually need to add some spacers to the right end of the axle between the cone and the locknut. Once you have done this, you'll also need to re-dish the wheel to bring the rim back to the centerline. You may need to re-space the frame if you have added spacers to the axle. See my Frame Spacing Article for details on this." Right. I also had to re-dish my rear wheel after UG freehubs were no longer available. It wasn't fun but I got it all done in under an hour including replacing the freehub. "How Many Speeds? Doesn't matter. Actually, the less speeds the better. Really? Wasn't the complaint that he needed more gears to get up and down the monster hills? No, just a much larger cog than is on the corn cob right now. We all become older and often due to a slowing metabolism also heavier. This nonsensical 9-10-11-12 speed craze is unnecessary. Same with me, I always shift across 2-3 gears, or 5-8 on the MTB, in one swoop. However, I do need that 32T in back which I could do without when I was 25. The olde tymie wide step 5sp freewheels weren't much fun with the big jumps. I loved those! Except, of course, that these were prone to axle breaks which I had a lot. My old MTB has 7-speed, the new one has a 10-speed cassette. I did not perceive any advantage whatsoever. It's just that when I bought it they were all 10-speed and I wish they weren't because then the chain would still be a sturdier wide one. ... but it's a better arrangement than the current corn-cob. Also check his crank. Some of the PX10s were spec'd with weird chainring sizes with big small rings. I think mine had a 45t inner or something like that. My road bike has 42T and the smallest available for that set was 39T. So some day I might throw a 40T in back as the largest cog but that would also required a longer cage derailer. ... Again, he could make some good money selling the bike in the collector's market and then go out and buy a nice gravel bike with lots of gears, lighter and stiffer where it matters with even more tire clearance for the gnarly gravel riding that you have to do in the wilds of Cameron Park. There are some really good deals out there on aluminum frame gravel bikes with hydraulic discs. I think updating a mid-fi French bike is a waste of money. If he can get by with throwing on a freewheel, then I would stop there -- otherwise, go shopping. That's also what I'd do. Especially since he is a mountain biker by heart so doesn't want to spend much time fixing a road bike. As for gravel bikes, most of our trails are really not suited for that. Lots of loose rocks and stuff, it won't be fun and likely break the new bike. Even if the gravel bike survives it could result in serious back pain for older riders: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l5cjAW_nrl4 I'm just talking about those urban trails next to roads you show and not technical single track, although I can ride most anything on my gravel bike ... What I've shown? Like this? http://analogconsultants.com/ng/bike/estavista3.JPG Yes, you can ride than on a gravel bike but it won't be fun and the bike will likely not enjoy a long life. ... -- just like Marty, minus the whole paralysis thing: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7ZmJtYaUTa0 He sure is a talent but I always wondered how many times his stunts went wrong and what the medical costs were. IMO, having 11sp is more advantageous now that I'm older and struggling to keep up with others. It's nice to have a gear that I can spin comfortably and not grind or over-spin. When I was young, I could more easily push a gear that was too big. With age I developed no desire at all to have finer stepped gears but I did for larger cogs in back. I'd be perfectly happy with 3-5 cogs in back as long as I have a 12-32T range. The only reason I ride the "in-between" cogs is to not wear out the most frequently used ones. "I always wondered how many times his stunts went wrong" https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ee54EP-nho4 -- Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org/ Open every day since 1 April, 1971 |
#26
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Peugeot PX-10 max cog size?
On Sunday, September 23, 2018 at 12:46:19 PM UTC-4, Joerg wrote:
Snipped Quote "That was the lightest frame I owned but I ruined it about 10 years later by descending a forest road that had a fairly short "rolling drain" (a diagonal cross ditch that almost matched the wheel diameter. That incident wrinkled the top and downtube but the bicycle was ridable". 'nuff said. -- Regards, Joerg http://www.analogconsultants.com/ The same thing can happen with a heavy fork and/or frame too if the front wheel drops into something deep that's nearly the same diameter as the wheel.. Btw, 9 gears in the rear can be very nice = you can set it up as a fairly close 7 speed and still have 2 bailout gears. I remember my MTB with the 5 speed cogs and so many times I'd shift to a lower gear from the one I was using but that new gear would cause me to spin a lot because the jumps between gears were so great. that was on road riding, t rails riding as well as loaded off-road touring. I was so glad when the 6 speed cogs freewheels became available as the jumps between gears were't so bad. The 7 speeds were even better. You seem to have unique needs/wants that no one else seems to have. I often wonder why you even bother to ride if everything about the bike is so sub-par for you. Cheers |
#27
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Peugeot PX-10 max cog size?
On 9/23/2018 12:46 PM, Joerg wrote:
On 2018-09-23 09:20, Frank Krygowski wrote: On 9/23/2018 10:54 AM, Joerg wrote: On 2018-09-22 13:42, jbeattie wrote: On Saturday, September 22, 2018 at 11:40:39 AM UTC-7, Joerg wrote: On 2018-09-21 23:57, Sir Ridesalot wrote: On Friday, September 21, 2018 at 5:34:11 PM UTC-4, Joerg wrote: Snipped He is a machinist and tool & die maker by trade, has a fully equipped garage with lathe, mill and so on. He is building stuff for his various vehicles all the time and made a couple of parts for my MTB so I could build a sturdy rack. 120mm is a pain though, 10mm is a lot of widening. Looks like this one can be shortened by grinding off the outer cog: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Shimano-TZ3...4/322007138705 Snipped Is he going to grind down the body too? He should read Sheldon Brown: https://www.sheldonbrown.com/speeds.html and https://www.sheldonbrown.com/freewheels.html "The freewheel threading on these older hubs is generally interchangeable except for some very old French units. If you go from a 5-speed freewheel to a 6- or 7-speed freewheel, you will usually need to add some spacers to the right end of the axle between the cone and the locknut. Once you have done this, you'll also need to re-dish the wheel to bring the rim back to the centerline. You may need to re-space the frame if you have added spacers to the axle. See my Frame Spacing Article for details on this." Right. I also had to re-dish my rear wheel after UG freehubs were no longer available. It wasn't fun but I got it all done in under an hour including replacing the freehub. "How Many Speeds? Doesn't matter. Actually, the less speeds the better. Really?Â* Wasn't the complaint that he needed more gears to get up and down the monster hills? No, just a much larger cog than is on the corn cob right now. We all become older and often due to a slowing metabolism also heavier. This nonsensical 9-10-11-12 speed craze is unnecessary. Same with me, I always shift across 2-3 gears, or 5-8 on the MTB, in one swoop. However, I do need that 32T in back which I could do without when I was 25. The olde tymie wide step 5sp freewheels weren't much fun with the big jumps. I loved those! Except, of course, that these were prone to axle breaks which I had a lot. My old MTB has 7-speed, the new one has a 10-speed cassette. I did not perceive any advantage whatsoever. It's just that when I bought it they were all 10-speed and I wish they weren't because then the chain would still be a sturdier wide one. Â*... but it's a better arrangement than the current corn-cob.Â* Also check his crank.Â* Some of the PX10s were spec'd with weird chainring sizes with big small rings. I think mine had a 45t inner or something like that. My road bike has 42T and the smallest available for that set was 39T. So some day I might throw a 40T in back as the largest cog but that would also required a longer cage derailer. Â*Â* ... Again, he could make some good money selling the bike in the collector's market and then go out and buy a nice gravel bike with lots of gears, lighter and stiffer where it matters with even more tire clearance for the gnarly gravel riding that you have to do in the wilds of Cameron Park.Â* There are some really good deals out there on aluminum frame gravel bikes with hydraulic discs.Â* I think updating a mid-fi French bike is a waste of money. If he can get by with throwing on a freewheel, then I would stop there -- otherwise, go shopping. That's also what I'd do. Especially since he is a mountain biker by heart so doesn't want to spend much time fixing a road bike. As for gravel bikes, most of our trails are really not suited for that. Lots of loose rocks and stuff, it won't be fun and likely break the new bike. Even if the gravel bike survives it could result in serious back pain for older riders: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l5cjAW_nrl4 https://yarchive.net/bike/mountain_bike.html Quote "That was the lightest frame I owned but I ruined it about 10 years later by descending a forest road that had a fairly short "rolling drain" (a diagonal cross ditch that almost matched the wheel diameter. That incident wrinkled the top and downtube but the bicycle was ridable". 'nuff said. From the same source: "Why is it that when I propose something, you try to disprove it by distorting to the extreme? There must be a defensive mentality at work..." Jobst did ten years of at least occasional off-road riding with that frame before hitting a hell of a ditch - "almost matched the wheel diameter. " That says to me that the frame and its rider performed pretty well. I suspect many a mountain bike frame has given up before ten years. And that's not even counting the ones that simply became too unfashionable to ride. I'm not saying that mountain bikes aren't more appropriate for riding off-road. But I very much doubt your constant claims that your trails require super bikes ridden by super men. Granted, I haven't ridden my road bike on a rough forest path for, oh, about five days now. -- - Frank Krygowski |
#28
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Peugeot PX-10 max cog size?
On 9/23/2018 12:42 PM, Joerg wrote:
On 2018-09-23 08:52, jbeattie wrote: On Sunday, September 23, 2018 at 7:55:02 AM UTC-7, Joerg wrote: On 2018-09-22 13:42, jbeattie wrote: On Saturday, September 22, 2018 at 11:40:39 AM UTC-7, Joerg wrote: On 2018-09-21 23:57, Sir Ridesalot wrote: On Friday, September 21, 2018 at 5:34:11 PM UTC-4, Joerg wrote: Snipped He is a machinist and tool & die maker by trade, has a fully equipped garage with lathe, mill and so on. He is building stuff for his various vehicles all the time and made a couple of parts for my MTB so I could build a sturdy rack. 120mm is a pain though, 10mm is a lot of widening. Looks like this one can be shortened by grinding off the outer cog: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Shimano-TZ3...4/322007138705 Snipped Is he going to grind down the body too? He should read Sheldon Brown: https://www.sheldonbrown.com/speeds.html and https://www.sheldonbrown.com/freewheels.html "The freewheel threading on these older hubs is generally interchangeable except for some very old French units. If you go from a 5-speed freewheel to a 6- or 7-speed freewheel, you will usually need to add some spacers to the right end of the axle between the cone and the locknut. Once you have done this, you'll also need to re-dish the wheel to bring the rim back to the centerline. You may need to re-space the frame if you have added spacers to the axle. See my Frame Spacing Article for details on this." Right. I also had to re-dish my rear wheel after UG freehubs were no longer available. It wasn't fun but I got it all done in under an hour including replacing the freehub. "How Many Speeds? Doesn't matter. Actually, the less speeds the better. Really?Â* Wasn't the complaint that he needed more gears to get up and down the monster hills? No, just a much larger cog than is on the corn cob right now. We all become older and often due to a slowing metabolism also heavier. This nonsensical 9-10-11-12 speed craze is unnecessary. Same with me, I always shift across 2-3 gears, or 5-8 on the MTB, in one swoop. However, I do need that 32T in back which I could do without when I was 25. The olde tymie wide step 5sp freewheels weren't much fun with the big jumps. I loved those! Except, of course, that these were prone to axle breaks which I had a lot. My old MTB has 7-speed, the new one has a 10-speed cassette. I did not perceive any advantage whatsoever. It's just that when I bought it they were all 10-speed and I wish they weren't because then the chain would still be a sturdier wide one. ... but it's a better arrangement than the current corn-cob. Also check his crank.Â* Some of the PX10s were spec'd with weird chainring sizes with big small rings. I think mine had a 45t inner or something like that. My road bike has 42T and the smallest available for that set was 39T. So some day I might throw a 40T in back as the largest cog but that would also required a longer cage derailer. ... Again, he could make some good money selling the bike in the collector's market and then go out and buy a nice gravel bike with lots of gears, lighter and stiffer where it matters with even more tire clearance for the gnarly gravel riding that you have to do in the wilds of Cameron Park.Â* There are some really good deals out there on aluminum frame gravel bikes with hydraulic discs.Â* I think updating a mid-fi French bike is a waste of money. If he can get by with throwing on a freewheel, then I would stop there -- otherwise, go shopping. That's also what I'd do. Especially since he is a mountain biker by heart so doesn't want to spend much time fixing a road bike. As for gravel bikes, most of our trails are really not suited for that. Lots of loose rocks and stuff, it won't be fun and likely break the new bike. Even if the gravel bike survives it could result in serious back pain for older riders: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l5cjAW_nrl4 I'm just talking about those urban trails next to roads you show and not technical single track, although I can ride most anything on my gravel bike ... What I've shown? Like this? http://analogconsultants.com/ng/bike/estavista3.JPG What? The photo shows a boulder field maybe 15 feet long. Looks to me like a person could ride to the left of it with no trouble. Yes, there are smaller rocks beyond it, but many times I've ridden stuff like that on a normal touring bike. On a gravel bike it would be easy. -- - Frank Krygowski |
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Peugeot PX-10 max cog size?
Frank Krygowski wrote:
What I've shown? Like this? http://analogconsultants.com/ng/bike/estavista3.JPG What? The photo shows a boulder field maybe 15 feet long. Looks to me like a person could ride to the left of it with no trouble. Yes, there are smaller rocks beyond it, but many times I've ridden stuff like that on a normal touring bike. On a gravel bike it would be easy. ? You need a MTB to ride that. -- underground experts united http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573 |
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Peugeot PX-10 max cog size?
On Sunday, September 23, 2018 at 4:38:34 PM UTC-4, Emanuel Berg wrote:
Frank Krygowski wrote: What I've shown? Like this? http://analogconsultants.com/ng/bike/estavista3.JPG What? The photo shows a boulder field maybe 15 feet long. Looks to me like a person could ride to the left of it with no trouble. Yes, there are smaller rocks beyond it, but many times I've ridden stuff like that on a normal touring bike. On a gravel bike it would be easy. ? You need a MTB to ride that. -- underground experts united http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573 A lot of people can or would ride that on a cyclo-cross bike, a gravel bike or even a road bike. Cheers |
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