Carbon post stuck in aluminum frame.

On Sun, 07 Aug 2005 09:11:54 +0200, Derk
wrote:

Hi Carl,

wrote:

This sounds like the stuff works like grit rather than glue,
though there's probably a better word than "grit".
Yes, the small particles that are added are sais to bind to the carbon and
thus the friction between the two materials is enhanced.
I heard from someone who used it, that it sounds like there's sand between
the two parts when you tighten the bolts.

Presumably, hard pieces stick between tiny irregularities of
the post and tube to resist turning or moving up and down,
like two pieces of sandpaper.
Yes,I think so.

The Babel translator has a 150-word limit, but here's the
address again for anyone interested:
I think they use the same translators that are used to make user manuals
that come with electronic equipment that is produced in Far Eastern
countries ;-)

Greetings from extremely wet Holland, Derk
^^^^^^^^^^^^^

Dear Derk,

So far this year, 6.98 inches of rain--beastly damp.

Cheers from Pueblo, Colorado,

Carl Fogel

wrote:

So far this year, 6.98 inches of rain--beastly damp.
Let's split the difference!

Greetings, Derk

PS. We now have hailstorms too. Not bad for november!

wrote:
Wayne Pein writes:

What is the mechanism for this and is there are way to get it out
and prevent future freeze ups?

I haven't heard of this before but it is probably the same as in any
kind of steertube. From the way you write this and that it is "stuck"
makes me visualize a quill stem.

The quill stem is dead! Dead! Dead!


Gee, good non-answer Jobst. Yes, seatposts do get bonded into seat
tubes. The ONLY place we use no grease is for a carbon SP and carbon
frame. Otherwise, some sort of grasso. Corrosion bonds this stuff
together. To get the old one out, cut it off, use a hacksaw blade and
try to cut notches in the remnanats to take it out piece by piece OR
have somebody with a large drill drill the remnants out carefully.


http://www.sheldonbrown.com/brandt/stuck-stem.html
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/brandt/t...s-headset.html

Use quill stems on antique bicycles and only for display purposes.


yer so FOS on this one. Quill, like Deltas, work just fine, I'll send
ya a pic of my modern merckx with a threaded fork.

Jobst Brandt

wrote:
Wayne Pein writes:

What is the mechanism for this and is there are way to get it out
and prevent future freeze ups?

I haven't heard of this before but it is probably the same as in any
kind of steertube. From the way you write this and that it is "stuck"
makes me visualize a quill stem.

The quill stem is dead! Dead! Dead!

Brain dead? Send me a pic of a carbon quill stem....


http://www.sheldonbrown.com/brandt/stuck-stem.html
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/brandt/t...s-headset.html

Use quill stems on antique bicycles and only for display purposes.

Jobst BrandtB

Qui si parla Campagnolo wrote:
wrote:

Wayne Pein writes:


What is the mechanism for this and is there are way to get it out
and prevent future freeze ups?

I haven't heard of this before but it is probably the same as in any
kind of steertube. From the way you write this and that it is "stuck"
makes me visualize a quill stem.

The quill stem is dead! Dead! Dead!



Gee, good non-answer Jobst. Yes, seatposts do get bonded into seat
tubes. The ONLY place we use no grease is for a carbon SP and carbon
frame. Otherwise, some sort of grasso. Corrosion bonds this stuff
together. To get the old one out, cut it off, use a hacksaw blade and
try to cut notches in the remnanats to take it out piece by piece OR
have somebody with a large drill drill the remnants out carefully.


http://www.sheldonbrown.com/brandt/stuck-stem.html
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/brandt/t...s-headset.html

Use quill stems on antique bicycles and only for display purposes.



yer so FOS on this one. Quill, like Deltas, work just fine, I'll send
ya a pic of my modern merckx with a threaded fork.

Jobst Brandt



Try warming it up with a hair dryer, aluminium has a pretty high
expansion rate.

Zoom

"Qui si parla Campagnolo" wrote in message
ups.com...
The ONLY place we use no grease is for a carbon SP and carbon

I've been applying light grease to my carbon SP for my carbon seat tube. It
seems to slide in and out easier when I want it to and I don't have any
problems with it moving when it is clamped in place. Do you see an
advantage to "dry" installation in this situation?

BobT

Thanks All for the thoughts. I'll pass them on to my Bud.

Wayne

Qui si parla Campagnolo wrote:
Send me a pic of a carbon quill stem....

WR Compositi made a stem with a carbon fiber quill. It's not on their
current site, but a photo is he
http://www.giroposte.com/Bars_Stem.html

Derk wrote:

There is a newly developed carbon paste (for mounting carbon seatposts in
carbon frames). Acco rding to TOUR, it reduces the needed torque by at least
30%. It's calles Danamic acrbon Paste.

When I greased my aluminum seatpost in steel frame I found I had to use
unsatisfactorily high clamping force. Perhaps due to a slight mismatch
but I couldn't tell.

I switched to Proofide or similar wax-based leather treatment and had
no further problems. Perhaps this carbon paste would be useful for
regular seatposts too, although I'm sure it costs a mint. Proofide,
Sno-Seal, maybe beeswax, work fine.

wrote:

The quill stem is dead! Dead! Dead!

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/brandt/stuck-stem.html
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/brandt/t...s-headset.html

For someone of your size and riding habits I'm sure threadless has been
a great leap forward. I've read your arguments and found them
convincing.

However none of them apply to me. I've never had the slightest
corrosion problem, no matter the weather. Perhaps because I'm not large
enough to pump the stem back and forth, with 40cm bars. Or perhaps
because I have enough grease at the opening to the elements. But if I
were to have such problems, I'm sure they would be nothing that
couldn't be fixed with a suitable rubber cover/ring at the opening.

Ease of adjustment: I adjust the headset and tighten the locknut or is
it locknot with my fingers. I've never had the slightest problem this
way. It stays in adjustment a long long time. When I was younger and
doing things by the book, I once used the big wrench to really tighten
the locknut. I couldn't tell any difference.

Clamping of the bars: the open clamp is certainly more convenient but
it has nothing to do with the headset. There are threadless stems with
closed clamps and quill stems with open clamps. Nearly all of the
threadless stems I see on new bikes in the shop (e.g. Bontrager on
Trek) have only two clamping bolts and I don't think this is wise. I
like the increased safety of the closed clamp.

I like the smooth lines of the regular stem. I recall the days when the
allen bolt was touted as a safety feature over the regular slightly
protruding hex nut (if you fly over the bars, you'll slide cleanly!),
and I don't like those protruding fasteners at the back. I see they are
supposed to be clamped tight and I don't like the idea of such rigid
torsional clamping in a crash.

Finally, I like the ability to adjust the height. I also change the
height of my saddle with QR clamp and it's nice to be able to move
things around, if only for the sake of variety.

Some people need one and some people need the other but both work.
Personal preference is a pretty good criterion in this case.