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#11
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rust inside the frame how to treat it
JB's suggestion, and its results, sound like a 'free iron' test that I used
to do as a late step in accepting high-tech stainless steel parts. Wash the part to remove mfgr's preservatives, wrap in a seawater soaked towel and after twenty-four hours wipe it with an inspection cloth. The amount of color on the cloth was an indication of how much iron was available in the alloy and how long it would last in its intended environment. And this was 'stainless steel', wonder how surface rust effects 4130 alloy? wrote in message ... To test the value of this advice, I suggest you take a clean piece of steel, for instance a tinned can with the tin steel wooled off, an spray some LPS-3 or WD-40 on it before laying it out in the morning dew for a few days. These lubricants do not displace water but rather emulsify with it. The inside of a frame, as I mentioned, is not at hazard from moisture unless you work at it. WD-40 as Gore-tex are religious icons without merit. They live entirely on faith. Let's tie and solder spokes again as the ancients did religiously... without merit. Also beware, smooth tread bicycle tires will aquaplane and cause crashes on wet roads... and many more. Jobst Brandt |
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#12
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rust inside the frame how to treat it
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#13
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rust inside the frame how to treat it
wrote WD-40 as Gore-tex are religious icons without merit. They live entirely on faith. Let's tie and solder spokes again as the ancients did religiously... without merit. Also beware, smooth tread bicycle tires will aquaplane and cause crashes on wet roads... and many more. Jobst Brandt You are right, as usual. One thing I have always wanted to do with this group is to compile the RBT Book of Myths. We should all make some sort of a list of the best "Whoppers of the Bike Business", you know. all of the really amazing product claims, false methods, unworkable solutions, or just plain dumb stuff that gets propagated to cyclists. It would be a grand project... real Nobel Prize level stuff. Or, at least worthy of a few good laughs. Bruce |
#14
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rust inside the frame how to treat it
What about using something like Ospho to treat the inside of steel frames?
It is a metal prep that has phosphoric acid in it. I believe Iron phosphate is formed and that is the surface protection. All you need to do is to wash it off when the reaction has completed. We used to treat SCUBA tanks with this stuff and it seemed to work really well for other marine applications. You just have to be careful with painted surfaces... Bruce "RonSonic" wrote in message ... On Fri, 29 Jul 2005 02:40:16 GMT, wrote: Jim Adney writes: is there some way to treat the inside of the tubing to prevent or slow down the rusting? I heard on this group of a spray that you fill up the insides with. The frame is steel. I like LPS-3. You don't fill the frame with it. Just let it coat everything. Destruction of a frame by rust is extremely rare, but it does occasionally happen. To test the value of this advice, I suggest you take a clean piece of steel, for instance a tinned can with the tin steel wooled off, an spray some LPS-3 or WD-40 on it before laying it out in the morning dew for a few days. These lubricants do not displace water but rather emulsify with it. The inside of a frame, as I mentioned, is not at hazard from moisture unless you work at it. WD-40 as Gore-tex are religious icons without merit. They live entirely on faith. Let's tie and solder spokes again as the ancients did religiously... without merit. Also beware, smooth tread bicycle tires will aquaplane and cause crashes on wet roads... and many more. Ya know WD-40 is the worst thing on earth - except for having your ferrous stuff rusted and wet and unoiled. I am not a fan of the stuff I use it rarely and on few things, but it does what it does. I'll spray damn near everything on my bike with it when I come in from a thunderstorm. This happens a LOT to me lately. Yes it would be best to wash and towel dry. Yeah, like that's going to happen every time all the time. I don't know about your steel wooled tin can, which sounds like a worst case corrosion test, but I know I've got a cleaner, less rusted drivetrain with a post-drench WD-40ing than without. I know it is then a lot easier to clean and lube all that stuff properly when I get a chance. No, I don't recommend the stuff as a regular lubricant or for potentiometers or other electronic contacts, but it has it's place. There are other aerosol packaged products that may work as well or better. LPS is very good. But those two are handy and work. Ron I also own vice-grips |
#15
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rust inside the frame how to treat it
Spray some zinc chromate in there and call it good.
I noticed that steel aircraft frames need respraying on the outside but they only have drain holes at the low points as a nod to interior rusting. Apparently it's not a big cause of problems. -- Ron Hardin On the internet, nobody knows you're a jerk. |
#16
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rust inside the frame how to treat it
Ron Sonic writes:
Ya know WD-40 is the worst thing on earth - except for having your ferrous stuff rusted and wet and unoiled. I am not a fan of the stuff I use it rarely and on few things, but it does what it does. "but it does what it does" can you expand on that? I'll spray damn near everything on my bike with it when I come in from a thunderstorm. This happens a LOT to me lately. Yes it would be best to wash and towel dry. Yeah, like that's going to happen every time all the time. I don't know about your steel wooled tin can, which sounds like a worst case corrosion test, but I know I've got a cleaner, less rusted drivetrain with a post-drench WD-40ing than without. I know it is then a lot easier to clean and lube all that stuff properly when I get a chance. That sounds much like tossing salt over one's shoulder. Can you explain what your WD-40 treatment does? Having ridden in all sorts of weather over many years without the use of ointments like WD-40 or Marvel Mystery Oil with no visible ill effects, I am not convinced of any positive effect of these emollients. No, I don't recommend the stuff as a regular lubricant or for potentiometers or other electronic contacts, but it has it's place. There are other aerosol packaged products that may work as well or better. LPS is very good. But those two are handy and work. I suppose you read about the federal study that showed: "Echinacea has no effect on colds" after it has been touted as the WD-40 of the dietary supplement fans for years. Another urban legend bites the dust. When will mystery oils follow suit? I also own vice-grips. I don't know what your fetish has to do with bicycle lubricants, but maybe you mean "Vise-Grips": http://tinyurl.com/8zcm6 Jobst Brandt |
#17
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rust inside the frame how to treat it
Bruce Gilbert writes:
They live entirely on faith. Let's tie and solder spokes again as the ancients did religiously... without merit. Also beware, smooth tread bicycle tires will aquaplane and cause crashes on wet roads... and many more. You are right, as usual. One thing I have always wanted to do with this group is to compile the RBT Book of Myths. We should all make some sort of a list of the best "Whoppers of the Bike Business", you know, all of the really amazing product claims, false methods, unworkable solutions, or just plain dumb stuff that gets propagated to cyclists. It would be a grand project... real Nobel Prize level stuff. Or, at least worthy of a few good laughs. Well, I don't let some of these subjects slip idly by forever. Some of that is available in Sheldon's generous space he has made available for an FAQ, a less assertive name for such subjects: http://www.sheldonbrown.com/brandt/ .... many are subjects that fit the description you cite. Jobst Brandt |
#18
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rust inside the frame how to treat it
Impressive site-test it!! And take a piece of lightly rust pitted steel
and wash only with thinner. Let dry in sun. apply thinned linseed and let dry. DRY! Paint with rusto. Brush off in two years to check it out. Linseed, as kerosene but not gore-tex as far as I, smells bad but hasn’t found a commercial deodorized state yet-well you might ask what about California?-ask the wd-40 users of deo kero when passing thru eldorado Linseed doesn’t just spray on, it attracts dirt like a wooly mammoth, now OBVIOUSLY boeing is not gonna-and it molds! But inside a sealed bike frame or in a renewable(brush off) area linseed works ok.like rusto! The LPS-3, that adney sprays into YOUR frame before going to lunch with boeing staff, is designed for commercial apps-remains to be seen as tested that this is better for private apps http://www.lpslabs.com/Products/CorrosionInh/Lps3.asp Approved by Agriculture Canada for use in food processing plants-and it doesn’t caws peanut seizures either!  Nonstaining  Easily removed with LPS degreasers  Safe on most surfaces-this is good, I was gonna spray it on my gums Why are Aviation OEM approvals important? Gee I dunno why? Because!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! aviation approvals verify and confirm that the chemical products being used on the aircraft or aircraft components will not harm will not harm will not harm will not harm the metal surface, paint, sealants, rubber components or any other material the product comes in contact with. Oh good! slip that one past you while your voting for arnold http://www.lpslabs.com/Products/Aviation/Avichart.asp |
#19
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rust inside the frame how to treat it
Someone whose attribution was snipped wrote:
is there some way to treat the inside of the tubing to prevent or slow down the rusting? I heard on this group of a spray that you fill up the insides with. The frame is steel. Jim Adney wrote: I like LPS-3. You don't fill the frame with it. Just let it coat everything. Destruction of a frame by rust is extremely rare, but it does occasionally happen. Jobst Brandt replied: To test the value of this advice, I suggest you take a clean piece of steel, for instance a tinned can with the tin steel wooled off, an spray some LPS-3 or WD-40 on it before laying it out in the morning dew for a few days. These lubricants do not displace water but rather emulsify with it. The inside of a frame, as I mentioned, is not at hazard from moisture unless you work at it. Jobst, I think you're confusing LPS-3 with LPS-1. LPS-1 is very WD-40 like, and about equally "useful." LPS-3 is a much heavier, stickier product, designed specifically for this sort of application. I think it would give excellent protection to your de-tinned can. It seems very similar to the Frame Saver sold in the bike industry for this purpose. Living here in the Norhteast where they put lots of salt on the roads in the winter time, I believe rust is as severe a problem here as it is anywhere. Despite that, it is VERY uncommon to see a bike frame that has suffered actual structural damage from rust. The bikes that do suffer are those ridden by year round commuters who don't have enough sense to install proper fenders. If you don't ride a LOT in salty slush, or in the ocean (I've done this!) internal rust is not likely to be a serious problem. Sheldon "Icky Goo" Brown +----------------------------------------+ | Promote the institution of marriage: | | Make it available to all adults! | +----------------------------------------+ Harris Cyclery, West Newton, Massachusetts Phone 617-244-9772 FAX 617-244-1041 http://harriscyclery.com Hard-to-find parts shipped Worldwide http://captainbike.com http://sheldonbrown.com |
#20
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rust inside the frame how to treat it
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