#1
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Chainline problems
I came to swap my old cranks for even older ones (both square taper) but
found my new older old cranks (lol) lined the rings up closer to the frame. Not a big problem but in order to get the right BB to set the new (larger) rings out from the frame I'm going to need to shimmy the chainline out towards ~6th cog down at the back on an 8speed block. This seems too far and is somewhat annoying, especially as I've sacrificed the granny ring for weight and to get the crank closer to the chainstays. Any suggestions? I'm trying to extend the life of my frame and didnt want to invest in a whole new set of cranks as the der-hanger is faulty anyway and the forks are threaded - it just does the job for now. |
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#2
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Chainline problems
"Coyoteboy" wrote in message
... I came to swap my old cranks for even older ones (both square taper) but found my new older old cranks (lol) lined the rings up closer to the frame. Not a big problem but in order to get the right BB to set the new (larger) rings out from the frame I'm going to need to shimmy the chainline out towards ~6th cog down at the back on an 8speed block. This seems too far and is somewhat annoying, especially as I've sacrificed the granny ring for weight and to get the crank closer to the chainstays. Any suggestions? I'm trying to extend the life of my frame and didnt want to invest in a whole new set of cranks as the der-hanger is faulty anyway and the forks are threaded - it just does the job for now. If you're using larger rings and they won't clear the chainstay without moving them out (by fitting the longer BB), you've got no choice in the matter... (I'm not entirely sure what you mean by "I'm going to need to shimmy the chainline out", since the chainline is purely a function of where the cogs are) cheers, clive |
#3
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Chainline problems
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#4
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Chainline problems
Clive George wrote:
"Coyoteboy" wrote in message ... I came to swap my old cranks for even older ones (both square taper) but found my new older old cranks (lol) lined the rings up closer to the frame. Not a big problem but in order to get the right BB to set the new (larger) rings out from the frame I'm going to need to shimmy the chainline out towards ~6th cog down at the back on an 8speed block. This seems too far and is somewhat annoying, especially as I've sacrificed the granny ring for weight and to get the crank closer to the chainstays. Any suggestions? I'm trying to extend the life of my frame and didnt want to invest in a whole new set of cranks as the der-hanger is faulty anyway and the forks are threaded - it just does the job for now. If you're using larger rings and they won't clear the chainstay without moving them out (by fitting the longer BB), you've got no choice in the matter... (I'm not entirely sure what you mean by "I'm going to need to shimmy the chainline out", since the chainline is purely a function of where the cogs are) cheers, clive Well i meant that i have no choice but to move the rings out so the line of the centre ring is way off-centre. |
#5
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Chainline problems
Rob Morley wrote:
Are the rear dropouts properly aligned with the bottom bracket? It sounds as if your frame may be out of track. Not entirely sure, no. The bike does have a habit of requiring some right-lean to hold it steady when riding no-handed. I put this down to my bottom as i seem to require the same on my other bike too! I'm not sure how im going to try to measure its centrality (word?!) J |
#6
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Chainline problems
In article , Coyoteboy wrote:
Rob Morley wrote: Are the rear dropouts properly aligned with the bottom bracket? It sounds as if your frame may be out of track. Not entirely sure, no. The bike does have a habit of requiring some right-lean to hold it steady when riding no-handed. I put this down to my bottom as i seem to require the same on my other bike too! I'm not sure how im going to try to measure its centrality (word?!) See http://www.sheldonbrown.com/frame-spacing.html and scroll down to "Checking Alignment (Symmetry)". |
#7
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Chainline problems
In the referenced article, Coyoteboy writes:
Rob Morley wrote: Are the rear dropouts properly aligned with the bottom bracket? It sounds as if your frame may be out of track. Not entirely sure, no. The bike does have a habit of requiring some right-lean to hold it steady when riding no-handed. I put this down to my bottom as i seem to require the same on my other bike too! Doesn't have to be your physiology. A small amount of lean may be necessary for counteract the camber of the road[1]. You may also be "lopsided" if you've cash, keys etc concentrated in one pocket rather than distributed evenly. And, of course, luggage distribution on the bike may make you lopsided. I'm not sure how im going to try to measure its centrality (word?!) Sheldon Brown to the rescue. See his string method for checking frame alignment: http://sheldonbrown.com/frame-spacing.html [1] That's why trike riders have forearms like Popeye. They're constantly heaving on the handlebars to stop the trike veering into the gutter :-) -- Dennis Davis, BUCS, University of Bath, Bath, BA2 7AY, UK |
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