Cyclometer and Cargo Bikes...

On Friday, August 25, 2017 at 7:50:50 AM UTC-7, Joerg wrote:
On 2017-08-24 17:22, AMuzi wrote:
On 8/24/2017 6:58 PM, John B. wrote:
On Thu, 24 Aug 2017 15:47:55 -0700, Joerg
wrote:

On 2017-08-24 15:22, AMuzi wrote:
On 8/24/2017 4:01 PM, Joerg wrote:
On 2017-08-24 13:43, AMuzi wrote:
On 8/24/2017 3:09 PM, Duane wrote:
On 24/08/2017 3:59 PM, Joerg wrote:
On 2017-08-24 12:53, Duane wrote:
On 24/08/2017 3:51 PM, Joerg wrote:
On 2017-08-24 09:40, wrote:

[...]


depends on where you are from there ...

if you're after a gnarly ride itsa different trip than
going over a
'gnarly' section wit the intent of traveling from A-B

for me at 70 n occasionally gnarly prior, gnarly means
constant
correction n balance maintaining forward speeds at
moderate speed
levels...with an index for injury in failure to
maintain as rock vs
grass berms ....trees....cliffs...Saturday night
vehicle traffic


That pretty much sums up my ride yesterday. Nothing
super spectacular
but fun. The only iffy part right now is that the BB is
on its last
legs so I have to be prepared to hoof it out of there in
case it
seizes up. That wouldn't be the end of the world either.


Why wouldn't you just replace the BB before it seizes up?


I'll have to first take it out to find out exactly what
size it is. Then put it back in until the new one gets
here (will replace with the hopefully better BB-ES51). The
MTB has to do two more trips, less than 100mi total and
it's not (yet) so bad that I'd be concerned. After that I
will remove the BB, look and order one.

I did the same with the road bike. There is was easier. On
the old adjustable kind you could rotate the cranks 180
degrees and get a (partial) 2nd life out of the BB. Now it
has a new UN-55.


I don't get it. If I need a part for my bike, I call the
LBS and ask him if it's in stock. If not, he'll order it and
I get it in 2 weeks or less. Granted, I don't live out
there where you do.

Even if you want to mail order it, why do you have to take
the BB out to find out which one it is? You can't just find
the model and get the replacement part list and order it
from that? I would guess that if you had the model of the
bike, Andrew Muzi could probably tell you which BB you
needed.

Yes, but even simpler just look at the crank model number
on the inside
of the crank arm, measure BB width (68 or 73mm for an
MTB). That's
definitive without removing anything.


The cranks are very scuffed up but looks like FC-M522, width
68mm and the thread diameter is 1.420". What I don't know is
the spindle length and those cranks will only come off with
serious torque on the puller and lots of cuss words,
something I really don't want to do twice. I have to make
sure the chain line stays the same.

The BB should be ok for another 100mi. IME they can be
nursed along with a few drops of turbine oil once they
develop play.



This is not rocket surgery. FC-M522 is all you need to know:

http://bike.shimano.com/media/techdo...9830749977.pdf



Thanks! They recommend up to 435 in-lbs on the tiny 8mm Allen wrench.
Yikes.


Given that the breaking strength of a 8mm hex wrench is from about
1440 inch lbs. to 1710 inch lbs. a 435 inch lb load sounds safe
enough.
see http://www.bondhus.com/tech-library/body-10.htm



Amazing. I never thought it could be this high. Still I am going to wear
leather gloves for knuckle protection just in case.

How about an 8mm hex socket for your socket wrench -- and make it a torque wrench? I thought you owned tools.


The other surprising thing is a similarly high torque spec for the cups
including the plastic one where some people said it feels like it's just
about to strip in the threads. Where the wrench feels like the torque
begins to drop again despite turning more.

It feels just like the wrench clicking when you hit the torque spec. The tool is compatible with a 3/8" drive torque wrench. At least mine was. http://www.parktool.com/assets/img/p...BBT_22_001.jpg

But you can use a rock and a nail -- but make sure its an old square nail and the rock has a high feldspar content. You'll know when its up to torque when the rock starts breaking apart -- and an owl passes across the moon, and the great spirit sends you a signal. Or you could get a torque wrench.

-- Jay Beattie.

On 2017-08-25 11:00, jbeattie wrote:
On Friday, August 25, 2017 at 7:50:50 AM UTC-7, Joerg wrote:
On 2017-08-24 17:22, AMuzi wrote:
On 8/24/2017 6:58 PM, John B. wrote:
On Thu, 24 Aug 2017 15:47:55 -0700, Joerg
wrote:

On 2017-08-24 15:22, AMuzi wrote:
On 8/24/2017 4:01 PM, Joerg wrote:
On 2017-08-24 13:43, AMuzi wrote:
On 8/24/2017 3:09 PM, Duane wrote:
On 24/08/2017 3:59 PM, Joerg wrote:
On 2017-08-24 12:53, Duane wrote:
On 24/08/2017 3:51 PM, Joerg wrote:
On 2017-08-24 09:40,
wrote:

[...]


depends on where you are from there ...

if you're after a gnarly ride itsa different
trip than going over a 'gnarly' section wit
the intent of traveling from A-B

for me at 70 n occasionally gnarly prior,
gnarly means constant correction n balance
maintaining forward speeds at moderate speed
levels...with an index for injury in failure
to maintain as rock vs grass berms
....trees....cliffs...Saturday night vehicle
traffic


That pretty much sums up my ride yesterday.
Nothing super spectacular but fun. The only
iffy part right now is that the BB is on its
last legs so I have to be prepared to hoof it
out of there in case it seizes up. That
wouldn't be the end of the world either.


Why wouldn't you just replace the BB before it
seizes up?


I'll have to first take it out to find out exactly
what size it is. Then put it back in until the new
one gets here (will replace with the hopefully
better BB-ES51). The MTB has to do two more trips,
less than 100mi total and it's not (yet) so bad
that I'd be concerned. After that I will remove the
BB, look and order one.

I did the same with the road bike. There is was
easier. On the old adjustable kind you could rotate
the cranks 180 degrees and get a (partial) 2nd life
out of the BB. Now it has a new UN-55.


I don't get it. If I need a part for my bike, I call
the LBS and ask him if it's in stock. If not, he'll
order it and I get it in 2 weeks or less. Granted, I
don't live out there where you do.

Even if you want to mail order it, why do you have to
take the BB out to find out which one it is? You
can't just find the model and get the replacement
part list and order it from that? I would guess that
if you had the model of the bike, Andrew Muzi could
probably tell you which BB you needed.

Yes, but even simpler just look at the crank model
number on the inside of the crank arm, measure BB width
(68 or 73mm for an MTB). That's definitive without
removing anything.


The cranks are very scuffed up but looks like FC-M522,
width 68mm and the thread diameter is 1.420". What I
don't know is the spindle length and those cranks will
only come off with serious torque on the puller and lots
of cuss words, something I really don't want to do twice.
I have to make sure the chain line stays the same.

The BB should be ok for another 100mi. IME they can be
nursed along with a few drops of turbine oil once they
develop play.



This is not rocket surgery. FC-M522 is all you need to
know:

http://bike.shimano.com/media/techdo...9830749977.pdf





Thanks! They recommend up to 435 in-lbs on the tiny 8mm Allen wrench.
Yikes.


Given that the breaking strength of a 8mm hex wrench is from
about 1440 inch lbs. to 1710 inch lbs. a 435 inch lb load
sounds safe enough. see
http://www.bondhus.com/tech-library/body-10.htm



Amazing. I never thought it could be this high. Still I am going to
wear leather gloves for knuckle protection just in case.

How about an 8mm hex socket for your socket wrench -- and make it a
torque wrench? I thought you owned tools.


Oh, I've got that and of good quality. I was just surprised that 8mm
Allen can withstand this much torque.

I do not use or have a torque wrench but emply a digital suitcase scales
at the end of a defined-length wrench handle. That way I can see when I
am approaching the target torque, in case things feel iffy and I want to
stop before.



The other surprising thing is a similarly high torque spec for the
cups including the plastic one where some people said it feels like
it's just about to strip in the threads. Where the wrench feels
like the torque begins to drop again despite turning more.

It feels just like the wrench clicking when you hit the torque spec.
The tool is compatible with a 3/8" drive torque wrench. At least
mine was.
http://www.parktool.com/assets/img/p...BBT_22_001.jpg


For bicycle and car stuff those are ok. For my job ratcheting torque
wrenches aren't always accurate enough.


But you can use a rock and a nail -- but make sure its an old square
nail and the rock has a high feldspar content. You'll know when its
up to torque when the rock starts breaking apart -- and an owl passes
across the moon, and the great spirit sends you a signal. Or you
could get a torque wrench.


I like multi-purpose tools :-)

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Portable-Ha.../dp/B00C68JD3Y

I was surprised how accurate those are. Weighed a suitcase at 49.0lbs.
Lifted it onto the baggage check scales at UAL, with that white-knuckle
feel that it might be over. Nope, their display also showed 49.0lbs. On
the way back I weighed it with another such device in Europe and same
thing at the Lufthansa check-in counter, the weight was right on the money.

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

On 8/25/2017 2:50 PM, Joerg wrote:
On 2017-08-25 11:00, jbeattie wrote:
On Friday, August 25, 2017 at 7:50:50 AM UTC-7, Joerg wrote:
On 2017-08-24 17:22, AMuzi wrote:
On 8/24/2017 6:58 PM, John B. wrote:
On Thu, 24 Aug 2017 15:47:55 -0700, Joerg
wrote:

On 2017-08-24 15:22, AMuzi wrote:
On 8/24/2017 4:01 PM, Joerg wrote:
On 2017-08-24 13:43, AMuzi wrote:
On 8/24/2017 3:09 PM, Duane wrote:
On 24/08/2017 3:59 PM, Joerg wrote:
On 2017-08-24 12:53, Duane wrote:
On 24/08/2017 3:51 PM, Joerg wrote:
On 2017-08-24 09:40,
wrote:

[...]


depends on where you are from there ...

if you're after a gnarly ride itsa different
trip than going over a 'gnarly' section wit
the intent of traveling from A-B

for me at 70 n occasionally gnarly prior,
gnarly means constant correction n balance
maintaining forward speeds at moderate speed
levels...with an index for injury in failure
to maintain as rock vs grass berms
....trees....cliffs...Saturday night vehicle
traffic


That pretty much sums up my ride yesterday.
Nothing super spectacular but fun. The only
iffy part right now is that the BB is on its
last legs so I have to be prepared to hoof it
out of there in case it seizes up. That
wouldn't be the end of the world either.


Why wouldn't you just replace the BB before it
seizes up?


I'll have to first take it out to find out exactly
what size it is. Then put it back in until the new
one gets here (will replace with the hopefully
better BB-ES51). The MTB has to do two more trips,
less than 100mi total and it's not (yet) so bad
that I'd be concerned. After that I will remove the
BB, look and order one.

I did the same with the road bike. There is was
easier. On the old adjustable kind you could rotate
the cranks 180 degrees and get a (partial) 2nd life
out of the BB. Now it has a new UN-55.


I don't get it. If I need a part for my bike, I call
the LBS and ask him if it's in stock. If not, he'll
order it and I get it in 2 weeks or less. Granted, I
don't live out there where you do.

Even if you want to mail order it, why do you have to
take the BB out to find out which one it is? You
can't just find the model and get the replacement
part list and order it from that? I would guess that
if you had the model of the bike, Andrew Muzi could
probably tell you which BB you needed.

Yes, but even simpler just look at the crank model
number on the inside of the crank arm, measure BB
width
(68 or 73mm for an MTB). That's definitive without
removing anything.


The cranks are very scuffed up but looks like FC-M522,
width 68mm and the thread diameter is 1.420". What I
don't know is the spindle length and those cranks will
only come off with serious torque on the puller and
lots
of cuss words, something I really don't want to do
twice.
I have to make sure the chain line stays the same.

The BB should be ok for another 100mi. IME they can be
nursed along with a few drops of turbine oil once they
develop play.



This is not rocket surgery. FC-M522 is all you need to
know:

http://bike.shimano.com/media/techdo...9830749977.pdf






Thanks! They recommend up to 435 in-lbs on the tiny 8mm
Allen wrench.
Yikes.


Given that the breaking strength of a 8mm hex wrench is
from
about 1440 inch lbs. to 1710 inch lbs. a 435 inch lb load
sounds safe enough. see
http://www.bondhus.com/tech-library/body-10.htm



Amazing. I never thought it could be this high. Still I
am going to
wear leather gloves for knuckle protection just in case.

How about an 8mm hex socket for your socket wrench -- and
make it a
torque wrench? I thought you owned tools.


Oh, I've got that and of good quality. I was just surprised
that 8mm Allen can withstand this much torque.

I do not use or have a torque wrench but emply a digital
suitcase scales at the end of a defined-length wrench
handle. That way I can see when I am approaching the target
torque, in case things feel iffy and I want to stop before.



The other surprising thing is a similarly high torque
spec for the
cups including the plastic one where some people said it
feels like
it's just about to strip in the threads. Where the wrench
feels
like the torque begins to drop again despite turning more.

It feels just like the wrench clicking when you hit the
torque spec.
The tool is compatible with a 3/8" drive torque wrench.
At least
mine was.
http://www.parktool.com/assets/img/p...BBT_22_001.jpg



For bicycle and car stuff those are ok. For my job
ratcheting torque wrenches aren't always accurate enough.


But you can use a rock and a nail -- but make sure its an
old square
nail and the rock has a high feldspar content. You'll know
when its
up to torque when the rock starts breaking apart -- and an
owl passes
across the moon, and the great spirit sends you a signal.
Or you
could get a torque wrench.


I like multi-purpose tools :-)

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Portable-Ha.../dp/B00C68JD3Y


I was surprised how accurate those are. Weighed a suitcase
at 49.0lbs. Lifted it onto the baggage check scales at UAL,
with that white-knuckle feel that it might be over. Nope,
their display also showed 49.0lbs. On the way back I weighed
it with another such device in Europe and same thing at the
Lufthansa check-in counter, the weight was right on the money.


Excellent!
What a handy thing to have! You can use that for a 28lb
crank bolt. Just hang your 49lb suitcase with a bent spoke
at 8-1/4 inches out.

Or, as Jay suggested, get a torque wrench

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

On 2017-08-25 14:06, AMuzi wrote:
On 8/25/2017 2:50 PM, Joerg wrote:
On 2017-08-25 11:00, jbeattie wrote:
On Friday, August 25, 2017 at 7:50:50 AM UTC-7, Joerg wrote:

[...]


But you can use a rock and a nail -- but make sure its an
old square
nail and the rock has a high feldspar content. You'll know
when its
up to torque when the rock starts breaking apart -- and an
owl passes
across the moon, and the great spirit sends you a signal.
Or you
could get a torque wrench.


I like multi-purpose tools :-)

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Portable-Ha.../dp/B00C68JD3Y



I was surprised how accurate those are. Weighed a suitcase
at 49.0lbs. Lifted it onto the baggage check scales at UAL,
with that white-knuckle feel that it might be over. Nope,
their display also showed 49.0lbs. On the way back I weighed
it with another such device in Europe and same thing at the
Lufthansa check-in counter, the weight was right on the money.


Excellent!
What a handy thing to have! You can use that for a 28lb crank bolt.
Just hang your 49lb suitcase with a bent spoke at 8-1/4 inches out.


Much easier: My socket wrench handles which also fit the various Shimano
sockets have an indentation at 8" out resp. a knurled grip area. The
strap of the suitcase scales hangs onto that quite well. I tighten by
feel and when it's close I hang the scales onto it, a few pulls until
the digital display states the target number, done.


Or, as Jay suggested, get a torque wrench


I might some day but then I have yet another tool in the garage. As we
get older my wife and I are trying to minimize the amount of stuff we
have or think we need.

You should see the tools I use for beer brewing. That is a real
minimalist's set-up. Most of it is McGyver stuff that elicits scoffs and
laughs among brewers yet it has produced dozens of batches of the good
stuff so far. Like this blow-off assembly, courtesy of the plumbing
department:

http://www.analogconsultants.com/ng/brew/Blowoff.JPG

You could instead spend $50-$100 on a professional looking set-up that
does the exact same thing (and often not as reliably as my PVC pipe
concoction).

The fermentation chamber is an old glorified wine cooler, the
electronics are on ancient phenolic board by yours truly, old German
phone jack and cables, the red LED light is hand-milled out of a chunk
of a discarded 100 year old office desk, the ceiling light is re-routed
for a heating function at the electronics and connected to a home-made
heater module, the heater module consist of heat sink from an old stereo
amplifier, resistors, curtain rail mounting brackets, a piece of an old
desk and an irrigation transformer, the primary fermenters are
6-1/2-gallon food-grade buckets, the secondary fermenters in the bottom
are 5-gallon water cooler bottles, et cetera. It all works well.

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

jbeattie wrote:
On Friday, August 25, 2017 at 7:50:50 AM UTC-7, Joerg wrote:
On 2017-08-24 17:22, AMuzi wrote:
On 8/24/2017 6:58 PM, John B. wrote:
On Thu, 24 Aug 2017 15:47:55 -0700, Joerg
wrote:

On 2017-08-24 15:22, AMuzi wrote:
On 8/24/2017 4:01 PM, Joerg wrote:
On 2017-08-24 13:43, AMuzi wrote:
On 8/24/2017 3:09 PM, Duane wrote:
On 24/08/2017 3:59 PM, Joerg wrote:
On 2017-08-24 12:53, Duane wrote:
On 24/08/2017 3:51 PM, Joerg wrote:
On 2017-08-24 09:40, wrote:

[...]


depends on where you are from there ...

if you're after a gnarly ride itsa different trip than
going over a
'gnarly' section wit the intent of traveling from A-B

for me at 70 n occasionally gnarly prior, gnarly means
constant
correction n balance maintaining forward speeds at
moderate speed
levels...with an index for injury in failure to
maintain as rock vs
grass berms ....trees....cliffs...Saturday night
vehicle traffic


That pretty much sums up my ride yesterday. Nothing
super spectacular
but fun. The only iffy part right now is that the BB is
on its last
legs so I have to be prepared to hoof it out of there in
case it
seizes up. That wouldn't be the end of the world either.


Why wouldn't you just replace the BB before it seizes up?


I'll have to first take it out to find out exactly what
size it is. Then put it back in until the new one gets
here (will replace with the hopefully better BB-ES51). The
MTB has to do two more trips, less than 100mi total and
it's not (yet) so bad that I'd be concerned. After that I
will remove the BB, look and order one.

I did the same with the road bike. There is was easier. On
the old adjustable kind you could rotate the cranks 180
degrees and get a (partial) 2nd life out of the BB. Now it
has a new UN-55.


I don't get it. If I need a part for my bike, I call the
LBS and ask him if it's in stock. If not, he'll order it and
I get it in 2 weeks or less. Granted, I don't live out
there where you do.

Even if you want to mail order it, why do you have to take
the BB out to find out which one it is? You can't just find
the model and get the replacement part list and order it
from that? I would guess that if you had the model of the
bike, Andrew Muzi could probably tell you which BB you
needed.

Yes, but even simpler just look at the crank model number
on the inside
of the crank arm, measure BB width (68 or 73mm for an
MTB). That's
definitive without removing anything.


The cranks are very scuffed up but looks like FC-M522, width
68mm and the thread diameter is 1.420". What I don't know is
the spindle length and those cranks will only come off with
serious torque on the puller and lots of cuss words,
something I really don't want to do twice. I have to make
sure the chain line stays the same.

The BB should be ok for another 100mi. IME they can be
nursed along with a few drops of turbine oil once they
develop play.



This is not rocket surgery. FC-M522 is all you need to know:

http://bike.shimano.com/media/techdo...9830749977.pdf



Thanks! They recommend up to 435 in-lbs on the tiny 8mm Allen wrench.
Yikes.


Given that the breaking strength of a 8mm hex wrench is from about
1440 inch lbs. to 1710 inch lbs. a 435 inch lb load sounds safe
enough.
see http://www.bondhus.com/tech-library/body-10.htm



Amazing. I never thought it could be this high. Still I am going to wear
leather gloves for knuckle protection just in case.

How about an 8mm hex socket for your socket wrench -- and make it a
torque wrench? I thought you owned tools.


The other surprising thing is a similarly high torque spec for the cups
including the plastic one where some people said it feels like it's just
about to strip in the threads. Where the wrench feels like the torque
begins to drop again despite turning more.

It feels just like the wrench clicking when you hit the torque spec. The
tool is compatible with a 3/8" drive torque wrench. At least mine was.
http://www.parktool.com/assets/img/p...BBT_22_001.jpg

But you can use a rock and a nail -- but make sure its an old square nail
and the rock has a high feldspar content. You'll know when its up to
torque when the rock starts breaking apart -- and an owl passes across
the moon, and the great spirit sends you a signal. Or you could get a torque wrench.


Duh.

--
duane

On 8/25/2017 2:00 PM, jbeattie wrote:
On Friday, August 25, 2017 at 7:50:50 AM UTC-7, Joerg wrote:

How about an 8mm hex socket for your socket wrench -- and make it a torque wrench? I thought you owned tools.


The other surprising thing is a similarly high torque spec for the cups
including the plastic one where some people said it feels like it's just
about to strip in the threads. Where the wrench feels like the torque
begins to drop again despite turning more.

It feels just like the wrench clicking when you hit the torque spec. The tool is compatible with a 3/8" drive torque wrench. At least mine was. http://www.parktool.com/assets/img/p...BBT_22_001.jpg

But you can use a rock and a nail -- but make sure its an old square nail and the rock has a high feldspar content. You'll know when its up to torque when the rock starts breaking apart -- and an owl passes across the moon, and the great spirit sends you a signal. Or you could get a torque wrench.

I'm willing to kludge or borrow a tool for a one-time operation. If the
same tool is needed twice, I may do the same, depending how difficult
the kludge or borrowing was. But if I need a tool three times, I'll
definitely buy one.

Based on that, I've owned a torque wrench since about 1970.

But in Joerg's defense, his kludging skills are epic. I'm still amazed
by the time re re-brazed his frame using the bottom of a Coke bottle to
concentrate the hot sun, all while fighting off the pack of mountain lions.


--
- Frank Krygowski

Frank Krygowski wrote:

:But in Joerg's defense, his kludging skills are epic. I'm still amazed
:by the time re re-brazed his frame using the bottom of a Coke bottle to
:concentrate the hot sun, all while fighting off the pack of mountain lions.

I thouht they were hyenas?

--
sig 104

On Friday, August 25, 2017 at 10:03:48 PM UTC-4, Frank Krygowski wrote:
Snipped
But in Joerg's defense, his kludging skills are epic. I'm still amazed
by the time re re-brazed his frame using the bottom of a Coke bottle to
concentrate the hot sun, all while fighting off the pack of mountain lions.


--
- Frank Krygowski

I don't think that many here believe much of what Joerg posts. Don't forget that he's the guy who will NOT carry a chain breaker* but WILL carry a length of rope to tow someone with.

* That from the guy who constantly states that weight is NOT an object or a problem. Sheesh!

Cheers

On Wed, 23 Aug 2017 07:26:51 -0700, Joerg wrote:

snip


Then I'd crash trying to beat my current max speed :-)

Heh!

My best is 68kmh. (googles) 42.25mph.


On a Bullitt cargo bike? Wow! That I would not dare to do. Was that
with a load?

Not really laden. Standard bag of crap; water, tools, book etc. Down
hill. This hill in fact. https://goo.gl/iBp2Dn It does have a steering
damper which makes it way less scary.


Oh man! I am a pretty hardcore MTB trail and gnarly road rider but that
I would not dare to do.

It's just a hill. Not even a steep one by local standards. Surface is
good albeit littered with 9mm shell casings (The road signs were really
rude maybe?) If you want to drink tea in a tree you have to go up it.



--
davethedave

On Friday, August 25, 2017 at 12:50:12 PM UTC-7, Joerg wrote:


The other surprising thing is a similarly high torque spec for the
cups including the plastic one where some people said it feels like
it's just about to strip in the threads. Where the wrench feels
like the torque begins to drop again despite turning more.

It feels just like the wrench clicking when you hit the torque spec.
The tool is compatible with a 3/8" drive torque wrench. At least
mine was.
http://www.parktool.com/assets/img/p...BBT_22_001.jpg


For bicycle and car stuff those are ok. For my job ratcheting torque
wrenches aren't always accurate enough.


But you can use a rock and a nail -- but make sure its an old square
nail and the rock has a high feldspar content. You'll know when its
up to torque when the rock starts breaking apart -- and an owl passes
across the moon, and the great spirit sends you a signal. Or you
could get a torque wrench.


I like multi-purpose tools :-)

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Portable-Ha.../dp/B00C68JD3Y

I was surprised how accurate those are. Weighed a suitcase at 49.0lbs.
Lifted it onto the baggage check scales at UAL, with that white-knuckle
feel that it might be over. Nope, their display also showed 49.0lbs. On
the way back I weighed it with another such device in Europe and same
thing at the Lufthansa check-in counter, the weight was right on the money.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Neiko-Bea...l13=&veh= sem

You know for $18 a torque wrench isn't a bank breaking tool.