#11
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Flat repair
On Friday, August 10, 2018 at 7:39:02 AM UTC-7, Joerg wrote:
On 2018-08-10 05:12, Andy wrote: On Friday, August 10, 2018 at 1:14:13 AM UTC-5, Andy wrote: I had to repair a flat. Have some questions. Is it best to apply patch to a completly flat tube? I found a small copper wire in tire. Is there something to minimize what can puncture tire? Thanks What is a good quality tire liner? I found Mr.Tuffy liners to be quite good. Stay away from cheap thin and lightweight stuff. I never ride without them. I also have thorn-resistant tubes in both bikes (yes, also the road bike). In the MTB tires the liner is additionally covered by a non-inflated slit regular tube to prevent chafing. All this increased the weight of each bike by a few pounds but not having flats is so worth it. Didn't have a flat in years and I ride through some nasty turf which includes lots of these thorns: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikiped...idum_seeds.jpg In observance of Murphy's law they usually lay on the ground with the long protrusion pointing upwards. I have been experimenting with tubeless tires. Unless you slice these things wide open they don't get flats. You might want to change from Gatorskins to Michelin Power Endurance which have a bead to bead belt. |
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#12
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Flat repair
On Friday, August 10, 2018 at 8:11:54 AM UTC-7, Andy wrote:
On Friday, August 10, 2018 at 9:38:24 AM UTC-5, David Scheidt wrote: AMuzi wrote: :On 8/10/2018 1:14 AM, Andy wrote: : I had to repair a flat. Have some questions. : : Is it best to apply patch to a completly flat tube? : : I found a small copper wire in tire. : : Is there something to minimize what can puncture tire? : : Thanks : :Pathing covered in images 4 through 8 he :http://www.yellowjersey.org/tubfix.html I will strongly suggest you sand your tubes. Sanding not only cleans the surface, it roughens the surface and increases the area that glue and cushion gum on the patch have to bond to. Done right, there's a 30 or 40% increase in tensile strength of the patch. :If you find a way to escape flat tires do write back. I sanded the tube, applied the patch and clamped it in a vise for an hour.. All it takes is to apply the glue onto the airless tube sanded area and peal the patch onto it after the shine has disappeared from the glue and simply rub it down with your fingers against a flat surface. Clamping it does no better. What's more, now you can even buy glueless patches. Let all the air out of the tube, sand around the leak and apply the patch directly, rub it down well and insert the tube in the tire and inflate. The problem most people have is finding the hole after they sand the area. I usually use a pen to make a large X so I can determine the center of the leak. |
#14
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Flat repair
Andy wrote:
:On Friday, August 10, 2018 at 9:38:24 AM UTC-5, David Scheidt wrote: : AMuzi wrote: : :On 8/10/2018 1:14 AM, Andy wrote: : : I had to repair a flat. Have some questions. : : : : Is it best to apply patch to a completly flat tube? : : : : I found a small copper wire in tire. : : : : Is there something to minimize what can puncture tire? : : : : Thanks : : : : :Pathing covered in images 4 through 8 he : :http://www.yellowjersey.org/tubfix.html : : I will strongly suggest you sand your tubes. Sanding not only cleans : the surface, it roughens the surface and increases the area that glue : and cushion gum on the patch have to bond to. Done right, there's a : 30 or 40% increase in tensile strength of the patch. : : :If you find a way to escape flat tires do write back. :I sanded the tube, applied the patch and clamped it in a vise for an hour. Did you let the glue dry? the hexane (or whatever they use these days) is just a solvent. the active part of the glue is the rubber and vulcanizing activator. then put the patch on, and press firm (the edge of a patch kit box works great.). Then put the tube to use. -- sig 125 |
#15
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Flat repair
On 8/10/2018 9:02 AM, Andy wrote:
On Friday, August 10, 2018 at 7:47:58 AM UTC-5, AMuzi wrote: On 8/10/2018 1:14 AM, Andy wrote: I had to repair a flat. Have some questions. Is it best to apply patch to a completly flat tube? I found a small copper wire in tire. Is there something to minimize what can puncture tire? Thanks Pathing covered in images 4 through 8 he http://www.yellowjersey.org/tubfix.html If you find a way to escape flat tires do write back. One way is to not ride. :-) One thing that helps is to ride away from the gutter. If you ride on the section of road that's routinely contacted by car tires, you'll find it's swept clean of most debris. Lots of glass shards, wire bits etc. get tossed out of that area toward the far right, where most cyclists like to ride. -- - Frank Krygowski |
#16
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Flat repair
On 8/10/2018 3:09 PM, David Scheidt wrote:
Andy wrote: :I sanded the tube, applied the patch and clamped it in a vise for an hour. Did you let the glue dry? the hexane (or whatever they use these days) is just a solvent. the active part of the glue is the rubber and vulcanizing activator. then put the patch on, and press firm (the edge of a patch kit box works great.). Then put the tube to use. Here's my method: First, I seldom patch a tube at the side of the road. Instead I just change tubes, using the spare tube I always have with the bike. I do check carefully by feel and visually to be sure the glass, wire or whatever is not still sticking into the tire. Oh, and I make sure the punctured tube is tossed sloppily into my handlebar bag so I don't forget to deal with it at home. At home, I inflate the tube and find the leak, making sure there isn't more than one. I mark its position X with chalk. I clamp a thick dowel (3/4" diameter or so) so it's protruding from my bench vise. This is my work surface. I lay the X directly on top. I take my sanding block (used for wood work) and sand the area to be patched. It's way easier than fiddling with the tiny sandpaper in a patch kit, and the dowel work surface makes it easy to sand well. I apply the patch glue, spreading it thin, then wait maybe five minutes for it to dry. I peel the backing foil off the patch and carefully stick it in place. Then I take another dowel, hold it right angles to the one in the vise, and roll it over the patch to apply pressure, starting in the patch's center and working toward the outside. It's like rolling cookie dough - although I've never rolled cookie dough. This makes it easy to apply quite a bit of force on a small area (the contact point between two perpendicular cylinders) and I think helps make the bond very strong. Then I make sure all the air is out of the tube so it's completely flat. I fold it up, put a rubber band around it and put it back in my bike bag. For me, the main thing is it's a lot easier to do this in my basement where I have all the tools immediately ready. And the dowel in the vise really is a much easier work surface than a flat surface. -- - Frank Krygowski |
#17
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Flat repair
On Friday, August 10, 2018 at 12:33:29 PM UTC-7, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 8/10/2018 3:09 PM, David Scheidt wrote: Andy wrote: :I sanded the tube, applied the patch and clamped it in a vise for an hour. Did you let the glue dry? the hexane (or whatever they use these days) is just a solvent. the active part of the glue is the rubber and vulcanizing activator. then put the patch on, and press firm (the edge of a patch kit box works great.). Then put the tube to use. Here's my method: First, I seldom patch a tube at the side of the road. Instead I just change tubes, using the spare tube I always have with the bike. I do check carefully by feel and visually to be sure the glass, wire or whatever is not still sticking into the tire. Oh, and I make sure the punctured tube is tossed sloppily into my handlebar bag so I don't forget to deal with it at home. At home, I inflate the tube and find the leak, making sure there isn't more than one. I mark its position X with chalk. I clamp a thick dowel (3/4" diameter or so) so it's protruding from my bench vise. This is my work surface. I lay the X directly on top. I take my sanding block (used for wood work) and sand the area to be patched. It's way easier than fiddling with the tiny sandpaper in a patch kit, and the dowel work surface makes it easy to sand well. I apply the patch glue, spreading it thin, then wait maybe five minutes for it to dry. I peel the backing foil off the patch and carefully stick it in place. Then I take another dowel, hold it right angles to the one in the vise, and roll it over the patch to apply pressure, starting in the patch's center and working toward the outside. It's like rolling cookie dough - although I've never rolled cookie dough. This makes it easy to apply quite a bit of force on a small area (the contact point between two perpendicular cylinders) and I think helps make the bond very strong. Then I make sure all the air is out of the tube so it's completely flat. I fold it up, put a rubber band around it and put it back in my bike bag. For me, the main thing is it's a lot easier to do this in my basement where I have all the tools immediately ready. And the dowel in the vise really is a much easier work surface than a flat surface. Here's my technique -- carry a couple of spares and have boat loads of patched and new tubes at home. Get numerous flats and accumulate a pile of un-repaired tubes. Then, (1) select proper beer; go to man cave and (2) select proper DVD and or BluRay movie, (3) start patching. I use a Sharpie to mark, and I just lay the tube flat and sand. You can apply glue to two or three at a time, depending on chair-back hanging space. Number one dries as you're spreading glue on three, etc. Apply patches like you say, but I just put the tube back on flat surface (I use a plastic cutting board) and press down with plastic tire iron. You could use your finger nail. When the pile is done, I pump them all up and let them sit overnight. There are always two or three that go flat because of super small holes, and then I get out the bucket of water and do those, and then I roll them all up like you say. Sanding is the important part, IMO. Some tube brands have really nasty mold release or some other finish that you have to get through for a good bond.. I have a patch limit where I just throw the tube away. Nothing set. If I say, "man there are a lot of patches on that tube," then I just throw it away. I've gotten my money out of it. I'll keep patching if it has sentimental value or its some weird size that I need. -- Jay Beattie. |
#18
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Flat repair
On Fri, 10 Aug 2018 15:36:07 -0700 (PDT), jbeattie
wrote: On Friday, August 10, 2018 at 12:33:29 PM UTC-7, Frank Krygowski wrote: On 8/10/2018 3:09 PM, David Scheidt wrote: Andy wrote: :I sanded the tube, applied the patch and clamped it in a vise for an hour. Did you let the glue dry? the hexane (or whatever they use these days) is just a solvent. the active part of the glue is the rubber and vulcanizing activator. then put the patch on, and press firm (the edge of a patch kit box works great.). Then put the tube to use. Here's my method: First, I seldom patch a tube at the side of the road. Instead I just change tubes, using the spare tube I always have with the bike. I do check carefully by feel and visually to be sure the glass, wire or whatever is not still sticking into the tire. Oh, and I make sure the punctured tube is tossed sloppily into my handlebar bag so I don't forget to deal with it at home. At home, I inflate the tube and find the leak, making sure there isn't more than one. I mark its position X with chalk. I clamp a thick dowel (3/4" diameter or so) so it's protruding from my bench vise. This is my work surface. I lay the X directly on top. I take my sanding block (used for wood work) and sand the area to be patched. It's way easier than fiddling with the tiny sandpaper in a patch kit, and the dowel work surface makes it easy to sand well. I apply the patch glue, spreading it thin, then wait maybe five minutes for it to dry. I peel the backing foil off the patch and carefully stick it in place. Then I take another dowel, hold it right angles to the one in the vise, and roll it over the patch to apply pressure, starting in the patch's center and working toward the outside. It's like rolling cookie dough - although I've never rolled cookie dough. This makes it easy to apply quite a bit of force on a small area (the contact point between two perpendicular cylinders) and I think helps make the bond very strong. Then I make sure all the air is out of the tube so it's completely flat. I fold it up, put a rubber band around it and put it back in my bike bag. For me, the main thing is it's a lot easier to do this in my basement where I have all the tools immediately ready. And the dowel in the vise really is a much easier work surface than a flat surface. Here's my technique -- carry a couple of spares and have boat loads of patched and new tubes at home. Get numerous flats and accumulate a pile of un-repaired tubes. Then, (1) select proper beer; go to man cave and (2) select proper DVD and or BluRay movie, (3) start patching. I use a Sharpie to mark, and I just lay the tube flat and sand. You can apply glue to two or three at a time, depending on chair-back hanging space. Number one dries as you're spreading glue on three, etc. Apply patches like you say, but I just put the tube back on flat surface (I use a plastic cutting board) and press down with plastic tire iron. You could use your finger nail. When the pile is done, I pump them all up and let them sit overnight. There are always two or three that go flat because of super small holes, and then I get out the bucket of water and do those, and then I roll them all up like you say. Sanding is the important part, IMO. Some tube brands have really nasty mold release or some other finish that you have to get through for a good bond. I have a patch limit where I just throw the tube away. Nothing set. If I say, "man there are a lot of patches on that tube," then I just throw it away. I've gotten my money out of it. I'll keep patching if it has sentimental value or its some weird size that I need. -- Jay Beattie. A while ago I believe that we discussed patching tubes in detail. At the time I think I remember someone writing that they simply wiped the tube off with some chemical and slapped on the patch. No sanding. I remember thinking that I should "get some of that stuff" but like many plans it came a crupper and I even forgot the incident until this thread started. Anyone remember the details and did the scheme actually work. I hate sanding tubes and would gladly go to some lengths to avoid it. |
#19
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Flat repair
On 8/10/2018 7:07 PM, John B. Slocomb wrote:
On Fri, 10 Aug 2018 15:36:07 -0700 (PDT), jbeattie wrote: On Friday, August 10, 2018 at 12:33:29 PM UTC-7, Frank Krygowski wrote: On 8/10/2018 3:09 PM, David Scheidt wrote: Andy wrote: :I sanded the tube, applied the patch and clamped it in a vise for an hour. Did you let the glue dry? the hexane (or whatever they use these days) is just a solvent. the active part of the glue is the rubber and vulcanizing activator. then put the patch on, and press firm (the edge of a patch kit box works great.). Then put the tube to use. Here's my method: First, I seldom patch a tube at the side of the road. Instead I just change tubes, using the spare tube I always have with the bike. I do check carefully by feel and visually to be sure the glass, wire or whatever is not still sticking into the tire. Oh, and I make sure the punctured tube is tossed sloppily into my handlebar bag so I don't forget to deal with it at home. At home, I inflate the tube and find the leak, making sure there isn't more than one. I mark its position X with chalk. I clamp a thick dowel (3/4" diameter or so) so it's protruding from my bench vise. This is my work surface. I lay the X directly on top. I take my sanding block (used for wood work) and sand the area to be patched. It's way easier than fiddling with the tiny sandpaper in a patch kit, and the dowel work surface makes it easy to sand well. I apply the patch glue, spreading it thin, then wait maybe five minutes for it to dry. I peel the backing foil off the patch and carefully stick it in place. Then I take another dowel, hold it right angles to the one in the vise, and roll it over the patch to apply pressure, starting in the patch's center and working toward the outside. It's like rolling cookie dough - although I've never rolled cookie dough. This makes it easy to apply quite a bit of force on a small area (the contact point between two perpendicular cylinders) and I think helps make the bond very strong. Then I make sure all the air is out of the tube so it's completely flat. I fold it up, put a rubber band around it and put it back in my bike bag. For me, the main thing is it's a lot easier to do this in my basement where I have all the tools immediately ready. And the dowel in the vise really is a much easier work surface than a flat surface. Here's my technique -- carry a couple of spares and have boat loads of patched and new tubes at home. Get numerous flats and accumulate a pile of un-repaired tubes. Then, (1) select proper beer; go to man cave and (2) select proper DVD and or BluRay movie, (3) start patching. I use a Sharpie to mark, and I just lay the tube flat and sand. You can apply glue to two or three at a time, depending on chair-back hanging space. Number one dries as you're spreading glue on three, etc. Apply patches like you say, but I just put the tube back on flat surface (I use a plastic cutting board) and press down with plastic tire iron. You could use your finger nail. When the pile is done, I pump them all up and let them sit overnight. There are always two or three that go flat because of super small holes, and then I get out the bucket of water and do those, and then I roll them all up like you say. Sanding is the important part, IMO. Some tube brands have really nasty mold release or some other finish that you have to get through for a good bond. I have a patch limit where I just throw the tube away. Nothing set. If I say, "man there are a lot of patches on that tube," then I just throw it away. I've gotten my money out of it. I'll keep patching if it has sentimental value or its some weird size that I need. -- Jay Beattie. A while ago I believe that we discussed patching tubes in detail. At the time I think I remember someone writing that they simply wiped the tube off with some chemical and slapped on the patch. No sanding. I remember thinking that I should "get some of that stuff" but like many plans it came a crupper and I even forgot the incident until this thread started. Anyone remember the details and did the scheme actually work. I hate sanding tubes and would gladly go to some lengths to avoid it. I remember the previous discussion, but I don't remember the solvent. But I, too, hated sanding tubes until I started using the dowel in a vise as a work surface, and the carpentry sanding block as a tool. It makes it much easier. -- - Frank Krygowski |
#20
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Flat repair
On 8/10/2018 5:36 PM, jbeattie wrote:
On Friday, August 10, 2018 at 12:33:29 PM UTC-7, Frank Krygowski wrote: On 8/10/2018 3:09 PM, David Scheidt wrote: Andy wrote: -snip snip- I'll keep patching if it has sentimental value or its some weird size that I need. -- Jay Beattie. Huh. I thought I was as maladjusted and psychologically damaged as anyone on RBT, but I can't say I ever felt sentiment for a tube. YMMV of course. -- Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org/ Open every day since 1 April, 1971 |
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