Mountain Bike Questions

Hi AndyC,
You Wrote: "I think the best answer would be another question...
"What kind of riding are you going to be doing?"

It's a bit like buying a car, you'd feel silly buying a sportscar if
you
were constantly having to go along rough tracks, but you may not want
an SUV
if you were doing starship mileage...

And, as the other poster alluded to, there's a wealth of difference
between
a £200 & £2500 (Yes pounds, I'm British!) bike, and its more than just
the
spec, it's ability and focus too!

I'm very sure that if you were to say something along the lines of:
"I'm planning on doing 50% severe off-road/FR, 10% mild DH, 30% XC and
10%
road, and my budget is $xxxx what does everyone recommend?" that you'll
get
some really good answers...

AndyC

p.s. For what it's worth, I'd recommend a Heckler with Z1s and a 5th
for the
above riding! ;o"

My Reply:
Hi Marx SS, Today, I went to two bike shops in Miami. I looked at
Specialized FSR XC $ 1099.(Alloy linear pull brakes), FSR XC Pro Disc $
1699.(cable operated disc brakes), Euduro $ 1899.(cable operated disc
brakes), Euduro Comp $ 2399. (hydraulic disc brakes), Cannondale
Scalpel $2000.(hydraulic disc brakes) and Specialized Stump Jumper FSR
$ 899. (2003 Model, with Alloy linear pull brakes). The last MTB, stump
jumper the sales person told I could add discs brakes because the wheel
hubs had the mounts to add the disc brakes. He said that adding cable
opperated disc brakes would cost $ 200., and $ 280. for hydraulic dsc
brakes. Plus additional $30. for labor to convert to discs. I figured
if I add the hydraulic brakes that would total $1209 with out sales
tax. The Specialized Stump Jumper sounds like a good deal right?

You wrote: "I’ve only ridden duel suspension offroad & I don’t really
like the way my pedal strokes seem to be eaten up by the bounce when
doing XC.
Except for downhill (wher you don’t pedal that much) I personally won’t
look at full-duel suspension MTBs because of the greater effort they
take to keep moving. Also they’re mega heavy with all the hardware they
come with (even though it’s light alloys & stuff)

Do you mean that if I ride a MTB on the streets, I will tire easily due
the bouce?

You wrote"‘Softtails’ (by a greater definition between fully duel
suspender downhill bikes & cross-country [XC] MTBs) have a smaller
amount of suspension on the rear, little springs/shocks that only
travel an inch at best, most likely the best of both worlds."

Should look for a MTB that has small amount of suspension travel?

You Wrote "Disk brakes. Better hydraulic over cable. Hydraulic needs
bleeding sometimes. Pads are pricey compared to rim brakes. Disks are
more common now as the price drops for them. I previously have Maygura
Julie (bottom level) hydraulic disks that dragged alittle, but I didn’t
do much except bleed
them."

Sounds like hydraulic disc brakes are the way to go...

You Wrote:"Some guys race rigid framed & rigid forked, single speed
MTBs with rim brakes, which makes me wonder sometimes if some of this
stuff that modern MTBs come with is just bling bling."

I know what you mean, but my 2 last bikes where a Haro and Worksman
with no duel suspension, or disc brakes. They gave a very harsh ride,
especially on rough pot holes streets.

Thanks for your reply,
Paul


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djajabaru