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Does anyone know PM-PM-F/R203 adapters
On Sat, 11 Nov 2017 10:39:42 -0800, Joerg
wrote: On 2017-11-11 07:51, jbeattie wrote: On Friday, November 10, 2017 at 4:47:56 PM UTC-8, Joerg wrote: On 2017-10-18 16:41, Joerg wrote: Attention, a purely technical post :-) Does anyone know whether these adapters are for going from 160mm native post mount to 203mm rotors? https://erpimgs.idealhere.com/ImageF...963c864243.jpg The bellied version (which I'd need) seems to only be available from Chinese sellers and they either don't understand English or plain don't know what they are selling. Or both. For example, when I asked the either-or question whether the adapter is for 160mm to 203mm or for 180mm to 203mm the answer was "No". Refining the question in great detail resulted in "It's for 203mm". Needless to say, asking for dimensions so I can calculate it myself is generally fruitless as well. So, I just dunnit. The front and back wheels of the MTB now both have 8" or 203mm rotors. Shimano SM-RT66 (SLX Deore) for now, long term I'll be looking for solid rotors. Other than the usual swap dance of washers for shimming until it was just right it was a painless switch. Braking feels nice and sturdy. Shimano recommends 18 to 35 in-lbs of torque for the rotor bolts. Seems wimpy and the previous ones sat way tighter, so I gave it a bit more oomph. While at it I adjusted out the rattle and play that always develops in the steerer after a few hundred trail miles. Every time I torque down those tiny stem bolts at the spec'd 44 in-lbs it feels like they'll strip the threads out any second. Shimano has tightening plates on their six-bolt rotors. All those little things are is a tiny locking lip sticking up for each screw, pair-wise. That won't hold much. One of the issues with low torque is the rotor slacking back and forth if you have to hold the bike from rolling back down a hill, then downhill again, then up, and so on. Which happens a lot on an MTB. For some reason the manufacturers can't get the tolerancing in the screws and holes tight enough. ... Avid uses a higher torque spec. 5nm should be plenty to keep your stem and headset tight, but probably not in Cameron Park. It does but only if I smear some grit-laden toothpaste on the fork tube before sliding on the stem. Not the paste for electric brushing but the regular paste. What I am saying is that 5nm feels like it's about to strip the aluminum threads out. I think I'd buy a torque meter. And use it :-) Alternately there might be sufficient material to drill and tap bolt holes out to the next size, i.e., 5mm - 6mm. Another idea might be to see what the real racing boys are using for stems and use the same. I doubt that a guy racing for a $750,000 first prize (The winner of the Munga will take home $750,000, followed by $100,000 for second, and $50,000 for third place ) plans on having many problems with the stem on his bike. -- Cheers, John B. |
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