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#11
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In article ,
"Robb Monn" wrote: So on Friday I went for a long ride with a large group of folks here in Brooklyn. The pace was slow and the vibe was good. That is until I heard a TWONK TWONK PING! The broken spokes allowed my wheel to warp to the point that it jammed in my frame. Down I went and I hit the ground pretty hard. After an hour of work I managed to get my wheel to turn in the frame and I limped 10 miles home. When this happened I was going about 8 mph on a flat. No bumps or trauma to the wheel for the whole ride up to that point -- which had been about 15 miles. I took the bike in to my LBS and asked (based on some googling and reading online) for them to rebuild my rear wheel. It is a stock wheel on a cheap bike and my feeling was that I'd like a hand-built, hand-tensioned rear wheel. I also asked after thicker spokes since I'm a big guy (235lbs and dropping.) I very regularly ride this bike quite far from home and don't want a repeat. Also, the bike is relatively new, bought in May and I've done about 175 miles a week on it since then. They *refused* to rebuild my wheel saying that it was unneeded. They were snobby and rude about it, too. I finally relented and they are replacing the spokes and trueing the wheel. Their final word: "If the new spokes break too then we'll know we have a problem." I don't *want* the new spokes to break. I rode 8000 miles on my last set of wheels and never had a single spoke break. So I have two questions: 1.) Any ideas on why my spokes broke? The LBS guy said that I had some grit on my hub and that was the likely cause -- that the dirt and grit had ground away at the spokes. 2.) Should I call them and insist on a rebuild or is it really not needed? I'm planning on riding a century on this bike on September 12th and it would really make me mad if I had some spoke problems that took me out. Here's what you need to do. After the spokes are replaced, stand on the wheel while it is tilted at 30 degrees. Also form the bend of each spoke where it touches another spoke, as the normally tensioned spoke won't be sufficiently straight. And don't forget to use linseed oil on the spoke threads, ordinary oil just isn't good enough. If you don't believe me, just ask Trevor Jeffrey. |
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#12
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#13
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#14
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Robb Monn wrote:
thank you thank you. I called the shop and spoke to the manager. He felt that his mechaninc would have done the right thing in any case -- never allowing a bad wheel to leave the shop and it was just a matter of the clerk trying to be helpful. In any case it hurts a little to go in to a shop without a lot bike mech knowledge and ask for the right thing and have people tell you you're crazy. I'm letting this shop do the job since my bike is already there, but I'm considering moving on. Anyone have a good suggestion for a shop in downtown Brooklyn? The **clerk**??? No wonder... That's the whole problem with the interaction with this LBS, which may possibly be a good one. Find out the tech's name and next time talk directly with him. Bypass the unknowledgable buffer. |
#15
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Robb Monn wrote:
thank you thank you. I called the shop and spoke to the manager. He felt that his mechaninc would have done the right thing in any case -- never allowing a bad wheel to leave the shop and it was just a matter of the clerk trying to be helpful. In any case it hurts a little to go in to a shop without a lot bike mech knowledge and ask for the right thing and have people tell you you're crazy. I'm letting this shop do the job since my bike is already there, but I'm considering moving on. Anyone have a good suggestion for a shop in downtown Brooklyn? The **clerk**??? No wonder... That's the whole problem with the interaction with this LBS, which may possibly be a good one. Find out the tech's name and next time talk directly with him. Bypass the unknowledgable buffer. |
#16
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Robb Monn wrote:
thank you thank you. I called the shop and spoke to the manager. He felt that his mechaninc would have done the right thing in any case -- never allowing a bad wheel to leave the shop and it was just a matter of the clerk trying to be helpful. In any case it hurts a little to go in to a shop without a lot bike mech knowledge and ask for the right thing and have people tell you you're crazy. I'm letting this shop do the job since my bike is already there, but I'm considering moving on. Anyone have a good suggestion for a shop in downtown Brooklyn? The **clerk**??? No wonder... That's the whole problem with the interaction with this LBS, which may possibly be a good one. Find out the tech's name and next time talk directly with him. Bypass the unknowledgable buffer. |
#17
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On Mon, 16 Aug 2004 20:59:54 GMT, Ted
wrote: Here's what you need to do. After the spokes are replaced, stand on the wheel while it is tilted at 30 degrees. 30 degrees from vertical or horizontal? Trying to taco it? Also form the bend of each spoke where it touches another spoke, as the normally tensioned spoke won't be sufficiently straight. ISTR that the technical term is "stress relieving". And don't forget to use linseed oil on the spoke threads, ordinary oil just isn't good enough. Linseed oil congeals after a while, gluing the nipple to the spoke. Some people apparently think this is a good ides. Another group thinks it's fun to suggest linseed oil to others. Linseed oil has one slight advantage over certain lubricants in that it won't attack tubes and rim tapes as readily as some other potentially useful lubes will. There are, however, better choices. If you don't believe me, just ask Trevor Jeffrey. Or don't. -- Typoes are a feature, not a bug. Some gardening required to reply via email. Words processed in a facility that contains nuts. |
#18
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On Mon, 16 Aug 2004 20:59:54 GMT, Ted
wrote: Here's what you need to do. After the spokes are replaced, stand on the wheel while it is tilted at 30 degrees. 30 degrees from vertical or horizontal? Trying to taco it? Also form the bend of each spoke where it touches another spoke, as the normally tensioned spoke won't be sufficiently straight. ISTR that the technical term is "stress relieving". And don't forget to use linseed oil on the spoke threads, ordinary oil just isn't good enough. Linseed oil congeals after a while, gluing the nipple to the spoke. Some people apparently think this is a good ides. Another group thinks it's fun to suggest linseed oil to others. Linseed oil has one slight advantage over certain lubricants in that it won't attack tubes and rim tapes as readily as some other potentially useful lubes will. There are, however, better choices. If you don't believe me, just ask Trevor Jeffrey. Or don't. -- Typoes are a feature, not a bug. Some gardening required to reply via email. Words processed in a facility that contains nuts. |
#19
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On Mon, 16 Aug 2004 20:59:54 GMT, Ted
wrote: Here's what you need to do. After the spokes are replaced, stand on the wheel while it is tilted at 30 degrees. 30 degrees from vertical or horizontal? Trying to taco it? Also form the bend of each spoke where it touches another spoke, as the normally tensioned spoke won't be sufficiently straight. ISTR that the technical term is "stress relieving". And don't forget to use linseed oil on the spoke threads, ordinary oil just isn't good enough. Linseed oil congeals after a while, gluing the nipple to the spoke. Some people apparently think this is a good ides. Another group thinks it's fun to suggest linseed oil to others. Linseed oil has one slight advantage over certain lubricants in that it won't attack tubes and rim tapes as readily as some other potentially useful lubes will. There are, however, better choices. If you don't believe me, just ask Trevor Jeffrey. Or don't. -- Typoes are a feature, not a bug. Some gardening required to reply via email. Words processed in a facility that contains nuts. |
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