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#31
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Remembering how to tie my shoes, going back for a do-rag
On Sat, 4 Jul 2020 19:10:54 -0700 (PDT), Frank Krygowski
wrote: On Saturday, July 4, 2020 at 7:39:23 PM UTC-4, Jeff Liebermann wrote: On Sat, 4 Jul 2020 12:54:17 -0400, Frank Krygowski wrote: On 7/3/2020 10:19 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote: On Fri, 3 Jul 2020 12:21:57 -0400, Frank Krygowski wrote: For Jeff: The downside is I won't learn as much about glue and rubber technology. (But thanks for that technical content.) No problem. Looks like you've solved your shoe problem. You may not be learning much about glue and rubber: http://www.learnbydestroying.com/jeffl/pics/hot-melt-glue/index.html Hmm. If I'd seen that a few weeks ago, I might have continued using the old cycling shoes! I thought that might get your attention. Good to know that I'm not the only person who repairs their own shoes: http://www.learnbydestroying.com/jeffl/pics/drivel/index.html#shoes.jpg The reason for replacing my old shoes was a chunk of black sole rubber disappeared. It didn't affect their cycling utility, but it looked weird and seemed a harbinger of further trouble. Well, there's another tool you might find useful. It's called a hot air SMD (surface mount) desoldering station. It uses hot air to melt solder, but will work just as well on hot melt glue: https://www.google.com/search?q=hot+air+smd+desoldering+station&tbm=isch The problem it solves is re-melting the hot melt glue after you've applied it, and discovered that there are voids or areas that didn't "stick". You'll need a few nozzles to concentrate the heat. A hardware store heat gun might also work on low-temp hot melt glue. You'll also need the accessory nozzles to concentrate the heat. But your photo interested me enough to go shopping. While sitting at my computer, of course (but wearing pants). I'm having Jeff B send me some black hot melt glue, which until your photo, I didn't know existed. I can also send you some of mine. Just one problem. I probably have 100 sticks of the black glue, but don't know who made it or the part number. I haven't tried too many other hot melt glue sticks, so I don't know if there's something special about it, or if it's just like the other vendors products: https://www.hotmelt.com/collections/hot-melt-glue-sticks Besides the shoe repair, I've been wanting to cast a lens cover for a certain set of binoculars, and another for a gun scope. I think that glue may do the trick. I think lens covers might be too thin for hot melt glue. That's the domain of 3D printers: https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=3d+printed+lens+cover https://www.thingiverse.com/tag:lens_cap -- Jeff Liebermann 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558 |
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#32
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Remembering how to tie my shoes, going back for a do-rag
On 7/4/2020 7:38 PM, John B. wrote:
On Sat, 04 Jul 2020 16:39:21 -0700, Jeff Liebermann wrote: On Sat, 4 Jul 2020 12:54:17 -0400, Frank Krygowski wrote: On 7/3/2020 10:19 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote: On Fri, 3 Jul 2020 12:21:57 -0400, Frank Krygowski wrote: For Jeff: The downside is I won't learn as much about glue and rubber technology. (But thanks for that technical content.) No problem. Looks like you've solved your shoe problem. You may not be learning much about glue and rubber: http://www.learnbydestroying.com/jeffl/pics/hot-melt-glue/index.html Hmm. If I'd seen that a few weeks ago, I might have continued using the old cycling shoes! I thought that might get your attention. Good to know that I'm not the only person who repairs their own shoes: http://www.learnbydestroying.com/jeffl/pics/drivel/index.html#shoes.jpg Using hot melt glue doesn't work with every type of rubber or hot melt glue. I got lucky and came close on my first attempt. The shoes in the photo worked well as long as I was walking on a fairly flat surface. However, when I started doing exercise walks through the local state park, on some rather rough trails, the hot melt glue eventually separated from the rubber sole, usually in large chunks. In other words, adhesion wasn't good enough when the sole was flexed. I did some experiments with surface preparation, which improved the situation. Acetone seems to be the best cleaner. Cutting shallow crosshatched grooves into the rubber sole helped. Note that hot melt glue is usually rubber based, so there are probably few issues with different rates of thermal expansion or material incompatibility. The best I've done so far is to simulate rubberized concrete. I'm using smooth sand, shredded soft rubber (bicycle inner tubes), small chunks of powdered automobile tires, and black hot melt glue sticks. It mostly works, but I don't believe I have the recipe optimized. I had the bright idea of using translucent hot melt glue sticks, so I could see when the glue line started to separate. Instead, I found that the clear glue didn't stick anywhere as well as the black glue sticks. At this time, I don't understand why. A good question to ask is why not use made for the purpose Shoe Goo? https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shoe_Goo The problem is that it's too soft and wears out far too quickly. It works great as a gap filler and for re-attaching soles, but fails badly for replacing large worn areas, such as the heels. A glue that worked quite well for most everything was Awesome Goo: https://www.amazon.com/Awesome-Goo-CECOMINOD023727/dp/B003EB51CY https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iFKCWgiEFGU I used some to fix a microphone cable. Ugly, but functional: http://www.learnbydestroying.com/jeffl/awesome-goo/ Unfortunately, the stuff was expensive. The company disappeared about 8 years ago and the supply dried up. The sole came off one of my wife's dress shoes and she brought it to her "Lord and Master" to be repaired. Not knowing a damned thing about shoe repair I eased on by one of those "Shoe Repair" places at the local super market and looked at what sort of "stuff" that guy was using to put shoes together with. Regular old contact cement :-) So I glued her shoe using Construction Cement, which is a sort of contact cement and a year or so later it is still holding. Although to be honest she only wears shoes to "affairs" (and before someone comments, sandals are the normal foot wear he-) -- Cheers, John B. I had a leather shop for a neighbor for years and I have some frequency in shoe repair shops all of whom use Barge Cement: https://www.bargeadhesive.com/ We use it here. Not all that expensive and keeps a good long while in its steel tin. -- Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org/ Open every day since 1 April, 1971 |
#33
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Remembering how to tie my shoes, going back for a do-rag
On 7/4/2020 10:42 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Sat, 4 Jul 2020 19:10:54 -0700 (PDT), Frank Krygowski wrote: On Saturday, July 4, 2020 at 7:39:23 PM UTC-4, Jeff Liebermann wrote: On Sat, 4 Jul 2020 12:54:17 -0400, Frank Krygowski wrote: On 7/3/2020 10:19 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote: On Fri, 3 Jul 2020 12:21:57 -0400, Frank Krygowski wrote: For Jeff: The downside is I won't learn as much about glue and rubber technology. (But thanks for that technical content.) No problem. Looks like you've solved your shoe problem. You may not be learning much about glue and rubber: http://www.learnbydestroying.com/jeffl/pics/hot-melt-glue/index.html Hmm. If I'd seen that a few weeks ago, I might have continued using the old cycling shoes! I thought that might get your attention. Good to know that I'm not the only person who repairs their own shoes: http://www.learnbydestroying.com/jeffl/pics/drivel/index.html#shoes.jpg The reason for replacing my old shoes was a chunk of black sole rubber disappeared. It didn't affect their cycling utility, but it looked weird and seemed a harbinger of further trouble. Well, there's another tool you might find useful. It's called a hot air SMD (surface mount) desoldering station. It uses hot air to melt solder, but will work just as well on hot melt glue: https://www.google.com/search?q=hot+air+smd+desoldering+station&tbm=isch The problem it solves is re-melting the hot melt glue after you've applied it, and discovered that there are voids or areas that didn't "stick". You'll need a few nozzles to concentrate the heat. A hardware store heat gun might also work on low-temp hot melt glue. You'll also need the accessory nozzles to concentrate the heat. I've got a heat gun. If necessary, I'll try to cobble together a nozzle for that. I'm at the stage where I'm trying to minimize purchase of new special purpose tools I'll seldom use. It's sad, I know! But your photo interested me enough to go shopping. While sitting at my computer, of course (but wearing pants). I'm having Jeff B send me some black hot melt glue, which until your photo, I didn't know existed. I can also send you some of mine. Just one problem. I probably have 100 sticks of the black glue, but don't know who made it or the part number. No need to send it, thanks. Jeff Bezos just promised to have it here tomorrow. I'm hoping he'll deliver it personally. He and I go way back. But it is too bad some of us are as distant as we are. I can envision a colony of like-minded repair freaks trading tools, equipment and experience. Not to mention obsolete bike parts! One guy I knew, kind of well-to-do in a nice suburban home, said "Look at this. It's crazy. I've got thousands of bucks sunk into a riding mower, a snow blower, a rototiller, a weed whacker, a chainsaw and more. And so does my next door neighbor and the guy across the street and the guy next to him. We should have just bought one set of equipment and shared it!" I think lens covers might be too thin for hot melt glue. That's the domain of 3D printers: https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=3d+printed+lens+cover https://www.thingiverse.com/tag:lens_cap Come to think of it, you're right; lens caps are a perfect 3-d printing project. But again, I'm trying to minimize purchase of new special purpose tools I'll seldom use. -- - Frank Krygowski |
#34
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Remembering how to tie my shoes, going back for a do-rag
On 7/5/2020 12:37 PM, AMuzi wrote:
I had a leather shop for a neighbor for years and I have some frequency in shoe repair shops all of whom use Barge Cement: https://www.bargeadhesive.com/ We use it here. Not all that expensive and keeps a good long while in its steel tin. So far, that brand's the best I've found for reattaching hiking boot soles. Others I've tried have failed. -- - Frank Krygowski |
#35
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Remembering how to tie my shoes, going back for a do-rag
On Sun, 05 Jul 2020 11:37:02 -0500, AMuzi wrote:
I had a leather shop for a neighbor for years and I have some frequency in shoe repair shops all of whom use Barge Cement: https://www.bargeadhesive.com/ We use it here. Not all that expensive and keeps a good long while in its steel tin. The "original formula" Barge Cement was banned as a VoC in California due to the use of toluene solvent. Barge then introduced the "TF" version, which increased the amount of n-heptane in place of the toluene. Despite this seemingly minor change in the solvent used, I found that the "TF" version didn't stick as well as the "original formula". For example, I had problems convincing the new "TF" formulation to stick to aluminum unless I clean both sides of the joint thoroughly with 91% alcohol or acetone. I didn't need to do that with the "original formula" version. $8 for a 2 oz tube retail. Ouch. https://www.bargeadhesive.com/products.html Drivel: "Sticky subject" https://photos.app.goo.gl/rHik3ei2LENhYFEW9 I didn't feel like emptying the box onto the floor. The box is about 9 inches deep. There's another smaller box of adhesives buried somewhere in the mess that I'm moving from my office. I recall there's a tube of "TF" Barge Cement in there somewhere. -- Jeff Liebermann 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558 |
#36
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Remembering how to tie my shoes, going back for a do-rag
On 03/07/2020 07:44, John B. wrote:
On Fri, 03 Jul 2020 00:42:57 -0400, Joy Beeson wrote: On Wed, 1 Jul 2020 13:39:41 -0700 (PDT), jbeattie wrote: I can see wanting to avoid special shoes, but you're buying special shoes. I don't like to change my pedals when I change my shoes. Shimano makes at least one model of dual sided pedal. Flat on one side and SPD cleat on the other. One model is the M324 and I think there is a second but can't find a reference to them at the moment. The M324's that I have, on 2 bikes, once they are "broken in" hang almost vertically so to use the flat side you sort of kick the top of the pedal backward and to use the cleat side you kick the top forward. I find that after ridding them for a while it becomes almost automatic to kick the right way to get the side that you want. I ride M324s on all my bikes and I agree. Well made, sit vertically, user serviceable if you should have any trouble. Changed the bearing/greased one pair at something like 25,000kms. Very good compromise pedal. |
#37
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Remembering how to tie my shoes, going back for a do-rag
On Sun, 5 Jul 2020 12:38:07 -0400, Frank Krygowski
wrote: On 7/4/2020 10:42 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote: I've got a heat gun. If necessary, I'll try to cobble together a nozzle for that. A mangled food can and a hose clamp should work. I'm not sure how hot it will get, but aim for about 120C for the low temp glue, and 220C for the high temp flavor: https://www.hotmelt.com/blogs/blog/high-temp-hot-melt-vs-low-temp-hot-melt For measuring, get a cheap type K thermocouple and a digital thermometer or multimeter with a thermocouple input: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DLW3MNV/146-8512226-0708830 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07M84554V or a IR thermometer that covers the range. I have one of these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N23IL33 but they seem to be discontinued. Note the 12:1 optics instead of the usual 8:1. I'm at the stage where I'm trying to minimize purchase of new special purpose tools I'll seldom use. It's sad, I know! The real problem with collecting such gadgets is having too many friends that like to borrow stuff and never return them. No need to send it, thanks. Jeff Bezos just promised to have it here tomorrow. I'm hoping he'll deliver it personally. He and I go way back. I prefer eBay. Details on demand. But it is too bad some of us are as distant as we are. I can envision a colony of like-minded repair freaks trading tools, equipment and experience. Not to mention obsolete bike parts! I tried to do that about 30 years ago with a "consultants exchange and co-op". Besides tools, parts, computers, software, etc, we did service calls for each other so that we could take some time off. It wasn't perfect, but was on it's way there when my father had a stroke, and I had to temporarily move to Smog Angeles. I still loan and borrow things, but individually, not as a group. One guy I knew, kind of well-to-do in a nice suburban home, said "Look at this. It's crazy. I've got thousands of bucks sunk into a riding mower, a snow blower, a rototiller, a weed whacker, a chainsaw and more. And so does my next door neighbor and the guy across the street and the guy next to him. We should have just bought one set of equipment and shared it!" Yeah, that works, until someone borrows something and returns it broken. It only works if everyone trusts everyone else, and everyone is reasonable honest. I've had problems in both areas. I think lens covers might be too thin for hot melt glue. That's the domain of 3D printers: https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=3d+printed+lens+cover https://www.thingiverse.com/tag:lens_cap Come to think of it, you're right; lens caps are a perfect 3-d printing project. But again, I'm trying to minimize purchase of new special purpose tools I'll seldom use. I'm not suggesting that you buy a 3D printer. Even if the machine were free, the effort involved in just learning how to use it properly will be more than what the lens caps are worth. If you want to take the time to learn, you can rent a 3D printer: https://www.google.com/search?q=3d+printer+rental A friend did that for about $60/week by renting 4 different 3D printers over a 2 month period. He wanted to test ride some possible purchases, but in the end, decided he didn't need one. Recently, the local library district bought a 3D printer for general use. However, the pandemic made it inaccessible. There are also private schools that will trade the use of their 3D printing equipment for a rental fee and possibly taking some classes. Lastly, there are services that will make anything you want for a price. Use Google to search your area for 3D printing services. Incidentallly, the real problem with 3D printing is not the price or the learning curve. It's that many jobs take overnight or longer to run. That can make you very unpopular at home while a noisy machine runs all night. -- Jeff Liebermann 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558 |
#38
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Remembering how to tie my shoes, going back for a do-rag
On Sun, 5 Jul 2020 12:38:07 -0400, Frank Krygowski
wrote: On 7/4/2020 10:42 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote: On Sat, 4 Jul 2020 19:10:54 -0700 (PDT), Frank Krygowski wrote: On Saturday, July 4, 2020 at 7:39:23 PM UTC-4, Jeff Liebermann wrote: On Sat, 4 Jul 2020 12:54:17 -0400, Frank Krygowski wrote: On 7/3/2020 10:19 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote: On Fri, 3 Jul 2020 12:21:57 -0400, Frank Krygowski wrote: For Jeff: The downside is I won't learn as much about glue and rubber technology. (But thanks for that technical content.) No problem. Looks like you've solved your shoe problem. You may not be learning much about glue and rubber: http://www.learnbydestroying.com/jeffl/pics/hot-melt-glue/index.html Hmm. If I'd seen that a few weeks ago, I might have continued using the old cycling shoes! I thought that might get your attention. Good to know that I'm not the only person who repairs their own shoes: http://www.learnbydestroying.com/jeffl/pics/drivel/index.html#shoes.jpg The reason for replacing my old shoes was a chunk of black sole rubber disappeared. It didn't affect their cycling utility, but it looked weird and seemed a harbinger of further trouble. Well, there's another tool you might find useful. It's called a hot air SMD (surface mount) desoldering station. It uses hot air to melt solder, but will work just as well on hot melt glue: https://www.google.com/search?q=hot+air+smd+desoldering+station&tbm=isch The problem it solves is re-melting the hot melt glue after you've applied it, and discovered that there are voids or areas that didn't "stick". You'll need a few nozzles to concentrate the heat. A hardware store heat gun might also work on low-temp hot melt glue. You'll also need the accessory nozzles to concentrate the heat. I've got a heat gun. If necessary, I'll try to cobble together a nozzle for that. I'm at the stage where I'm trying to minimize purchase of new special purpose tools I'll seldom use. It's sad, I know! But your photo interested me enough to go shopping. While sitting at my computer, of course (but wearing pants). I'm having Jeff B send me some black hot melt glue, which until your photo, I didn't know existed. I can also send you some of mine. Just one problem. I probably have 100 sticks of the black glue, but don't know who made it or the part number. No need to send it, thanks. Jeff Bezos just promised to have it here tomorrow. I'm hoping he'll deliver it personally. He and I go way back. But it is too bad some of us are as distant as we are. I can envision a colony of like-minded repair freaks trading tools, equipment and experience. Not to mention obsolete bike parts! One guy I knew, kind of well-to-do in a nice suburban home, said "Look at this. It's crazy. I've got thousands of bucks sunk into a riding mower, a snow blower, a rototiller, a weed whacker, a chainsaw and more. And so does my next door neighbor and the guy across the street and the guy next to him. We should have just bought one set of equipment and shared it!" There used to be companies that did that as a business. You needed a jack-hammer for a couple of days to break up the driveway you could rent one, along with the air compressor to power it. Are those sort of places all gone now? -- Cheers, John B. |
#39
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Remembering how to tie my shoes, going back for a do-rag
On Mon, 06 Jul 2020 05:47:52 +0700, John B.
wrote: There used to be companies that did that as a business. You needed a jack-hammer for a couple of days to break up the driveway you could rent one, along with the air compressor to power it. Are those sort of places all gone now? Still very much in business: https://www.unitedrentals.com 880+ US/Canada locations: https://www.unitedrentals.com/locations#/ -- Jeff Liebermann 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558 |
#40
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Remembering how to tie my shoes, going back for a do-rag
On 7/5/2020 1:57 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Sun, 05 Jul 2020 11:37:02 -0500, AMuzi wrote: I had a leather shop for a neighbor for years and I have some frequency in shoe repair shops all of whom use Barge Cement: https://www.bargeadhesive.com/ We use it here. Not all that expensive and keeps a good long while in its steel tin. The "original formula" Barge Cement was banned as a VoC in California due to the use of toluene solvent. Barge then introduced the "TF" version, which increased the amount of n-heptane in place of the toluene. Despite this seemingly minor change in the solvent used, I found that the "TF" version didn't stick as well as the "original formula". For example, I had problems convincing the new "TF" formulation to stick to aluminum unless I clean both sides of the joint thoroughly with 91% alcohol or acetone. I didn't need to do that with the "original formula" version. $8 for a 2 oz tube retail. Ouch. https://www.bargeadhesive.com/products.html Drivel: "Sticky subject" https://photos.app.goo.gl/rHik3ei2LENhYFEW9 I didn't feel like emptying the box onto the floor. The box is about 9 inches deep. There's another smaller box of adhesives buried somewhere in the mess that I'm moving from my office. I recall there's a tube of "TF" Barge Cement in there somewhere. My box of glues is about 8" x 8" x 16". But most are in their original hanger packaging, so that takes up much more space than just the tubes or bottles. -- - Frank Krygowski |
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