Disc Failure

On 6/30/2020 10:59 AM, wrote:
On Tuesday, June 30, 2020 at 8:46:01 AM UTC-7, Lou Holtman wrote:
On Tuesday, June 30, 2020 at 4:29:59 PM UTC+2, wrote:
On Tuesday, June 30, 2020 at 1:04:04 AM UTC-7, James wrote:
On 29/6/20 4:24 pm, Tosspot wrote:
On 29/06/2020 02:06, jbeattie wrote:
On Sunday, June 28, 2020 at 2:41:57 PM UTC-7, AMuzi wrote:
There's a lot wrong here but the flopping disc and loosened bolts
have worn into the fork casting.

http://www.yellowjersey.org/photosfr...t/faildisc.jpg

Could be a great advertisement for earbuds!

Wow, even with earbuds, how do you not feel that? I use loctite on my
six-bolt rotors or the factory supplied thread-locker on rotor
bolts.

I've never come cross the idea that people *don't* use a drop of
LocTite Blue on them. One of the few (only?) places I use thread lock.

I admittedly have not been using disc brake equiped bikes for many
years, but I haven't had any rotor bolts come loose either and I don't
bother with thread goop. I just nip them up tight. I think I would
notice fairly quickly if they came loose and I always carry a multi tool
so I could easily tighten the bolts while I am out.
Wear on the disk cause vibration that can counter-rotate the screws out. It may be likely that you look often enough at your bike to catch if but proper torque is not "nipping it up. As Andrew's picture demonstrates.

Every 6 bolt disk I bought came with screws with that blue goop on. Every centerlock disk I bought came with a lockring. If you torque the screws or lockring to spec the disk don't come loose.

Lou

While I agree with your comments via the locktite compound, how do you "torque" the center ring properly? Mine came with a plastic tool that you hand-tightened.


Did you observe the torque rating? A plastic tool is
sufficiently robust for that. In an engineering sense,
Centerlock is a better design than six bolt as the lockring
doesn't bear braking forces.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

On Tuesday, June 30, 2020 at 9:30:20 AM UTC-7, Lou Holtman wrote:
On Tuesday, June 30, 2020 at 5:59:21 PM UTC+2, wrote:
On Tuesday, June 30, 2020 at 8:46:01 AM UTC-7, Lou Holtman wrote:
On Tuesday, June 30, 2020 at 4:29:59 PM UTC+2, wrote:
On Tuesday, June 30, 2020 at 1:04:04 AM UTC-7, James wrote:
On 29/6/20 4:24 pm, Tosspot wrote:
On 29/06/2020 02:06, jbeattie wrote:
On Sunday, June 28, 2020 at 2:41:57 PM UTC-7, AMuzi wrote:
There's a lot wrong here but the flopping disc and loosened bolts
have worn into the fork casting.

http://www.yellowjersey.org/photosfr...t/faildisc.jpg

Could be a great advertisement for earbuds!

Wow, even with earbuds, how do you not feel that? I use loctite on my
six-bolt rotors or the factory supplied thread-locker on rotor
bolts.

I've never comeÂ* cross the idea that people *don't* use a drop of
LocTite Blue on them.Â* One of the few (only?) places I use thread lock.

I admittedly have not been using disc brake equiped bikes for many
years, but I haven't had any rotor bolts come loose either and I don't
bother with thread goop. I just nip them up tight. I think I would
notice fairly quickly if they came loose and I always carry a multi tool
so I could easily tighten the bolts while I am out.
Wear on the disk cause vibration that can counter-rotate the screws out. It may be likely that you look often enough at your bike to catch if but proper torque is not "nipping it up. As Andrew's picture demonstrates.

Every 6 bolt disk I bought came with screws with that blue goop on. Every centerlock disk I bought came with a lockring. If you torque the screws or lockring to spec the disk don't come loose.

Lou

While I agree with your comments via the locktite compound, how do you "torque" the center ring properly? Mine came with a plastic tool that you hand-tightened.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/Lnc1af6H3V1rNhTd8

Lou

The center lock wheels I had had a large ring and nothing at all like that tool you showed. The plastic tool fit over the OD of the ring and was hand tightened.

On Tuesday, June 30, 2020 at 9:35:48 AM UTC-7, AMuzi wrote:
On 6/30/2020 10:59 AM, wrote:
On Tuesday, June 30, 2020 at 8:46:01 AM UTC-7, Lou Holtman wrote:
On Tuesday, June 30, 2020 at 4:29:59 PM UTC+2, wrote:
On Tuesday, June 30, 2020 at 1:04:04 AM UTC-7, James wrote:
On 29/6/20 4:24 pm, Tosspot wrote:
On 29/06/2020 02:06, jbeattie wrote:
On Sunday, June 28, 2020 at 2:41:57 PM UTC-7, AMuzi wrote:
There's a lot wrong here but the flopping disc and loosened bolts
have worn into the fork casting.

http://www.yellowjersey.org/photosfr...t/faildisc.jpg

Could be a great advertisement for earbuds!

Wow, even with earbuds, how do you not feel that? I use loctite on my
six-bolt rotors or the factory supplied thread-locker on rotor
bolts.

I've never come cross the idea that people *don't* use a drop of
LocTite Blue on them. One of the few (only?) places I use thread lock.

I admittedly have not been using disc brake equiped bikes for many
years, but I haven't had any rotor bolts come loose either and I don't
bother with thread goop. I just nip them up tight. I think I would
notice fairly quickly if they came loose and I always carry a multi tool
so I could easily tighten the bolts while I am out.
Wear on the disk cause vibration that can counter-rotate the screws out. It may be likely that you look often enough at your bike to catch if but proper torque is not "nipping it up. As Andrew's picture demonstrates.

Every 6 bolt disk I bought came with screws with that blue goop on. Every centerlock disk I bought came with a lockring. If you torque the screws or lockring to spec the disk don't come loose.

Lou

While I agree with your comments via the locktite compound, how do you "torque" the center ring properly? Mine came with a plastic tool that you hand-tightened.


Did you observe the torque rating? A plastic tool is
sufficiently robust for that. In an engineering sense,
Centerlock is a better design than six bolt as the lockring
doesn't bear braking forces.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

The reason I got rid of mine was because the splines were on an aluminum freewheel like assembly and just like cheap cassettes the disk pushed grooves into the aluminum. The 6 bolt setup gave me no problems since those groves would allow the disk to walk back and forth and made a "CLACK" each time you applied the brakes.

On Wednesday, July 1, 2020 at 5:58:34 PM UTC+2, wrote:
On Tuesday, June 30, 2020 at 9:30:20 AM UTC-7, Lou Holtman wrote:
On Tuesday, June 30, 2020 at 5:59:21 PM UTC+2, wrote:
On Tuesday, June 30, 2020 at 8:46:01 AM UTC-7, Lou Holtman wrote:
On Tuesday, June 30, 2020 at 4:29:59 PM UTC+2, wrote:
On Tuesday, June 30, 2020 at 1:04:04 AM UTC-7, James wrote:
On 29/6/20 4:24 pm, Tosspot wrote:
On 29/06/2020 02:06, jbeattie wrote:
On Sunday, June 28, 2020 at 2:41:57 PM UTC-7, AMuzi wrote:
There's a lot wrong here but the flopping disc and loosened bolts
have worn into the fork casting.

http://www.yellowjersey.org/photosfr...t/faildisc.jpg

Could be a great advertisement for earbuds!

Wow, even with earbuds, how do you not feel that? I use loctite on my
six-bolt rotors or the factory supplied thread-locker on rotor
bolts.

I've never comeÂ* cross the idea that people *don't* use a drop of
LocTite Blue on them.Â* One of the few (only?) places I use thread lock.

I admittedly have not been using disc brake equiped bikes for many
years, but I haven't had any rotor bolts come loose either and I don't
bother with thread goop. I just nip them up tight. I think I would
notice fairly quickly if they came loose and I always carry a multi tool
so I could easily tighten the bolts while I am out.
Wear on the disk cause vibration that can counter-rotate the screws out. It may be likely that you look often enough at your bike to catch if but proper torque is not "nipping it up. As Andrew's picture demonstrates..

Every 6 bolt disk I bought came with screws with that blue goop on. Every centerlock disk I bought came with a lockring. If you torque the screws or lockring to spec the disk don't come loose.

Lou

While I agree with your comments via the locktite compound, how do you "torque" the center ring properly? Mine came with a plastic tool that you hand-tightened.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/Lnc1af6H3V1rNhTd8

Lou

The center lock wheels I had had a large ring and nothing at all like that tool you showed. The plastic tool fit over the OD of the ring and was hand tightened.

As far as I know Shimano 'invented' the center lock system and the lock ring uses the same spline pattern as the lock ring for their cassettes and you use the same tool to secure both rings.

From my spare parts cabinet:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/giz6J28VTghKAY8d8
https://photos.app.goo.gl/HxvuSdawFzqs1vyo9

I can't remember anything you described for a disk rotor. I can remember a plastic tool to preload/adjust a XTR FC-970 crankset.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/yuSXJawUwwtjMZRn8


Lou

On Wednesday, July 1, 2020 at 10:46:31 AM UTC-7, Lou Holtman wrote:
On Wednesday, July 1, 2020 at 5:58:34 PM UTC+2, wrote:
On Tuesday, June 30, 2020 at 9:30:20 AM UTC-7, Lou Holtman wrote:
On Tuesday, June 30, 2020 at 5:59:21 PM UTC+2, wrote:
On Tuesday, June 30, 2020 at 8:46:01 AM UTC-7, Lou Holtman wrote:
On Tuesday, June 30, 2020 at 4:29:59 PM UTC+2, wrote:
On Tuesday, June 30, 2020 at 1:04:04 AM UTC-7, James wrote:
On 29/6/20 4:24 pm, Tosspot wrote:
On 29/06/2020 02:06, jbeattie wrote:
On Sunday, June 28, 2020 at 2:41:57 PM UTC-7, AMuzi wrote:
There's a lot wrong here but the flopping disc and loosened bolts
have worn into the fork casting.

http://www.yellowjersey.org/photosfr...t/faildisc.jpg

Could be a great advertisement for earbuds!

Wow, even with earbuds, how do you not feel that? I use loctite on my
six-bolt rotors or the factory supplied thread-locker on rotor
bolts.

I've never comeÂ* cross the idea that people *don't* use a drop of
LocTite Blue on them.Â* One of the few (only?) places I use thread lock.

I admittedly have not been using disc brake equiped bikes for many
years, but I haven't had any rotor bolts come loose either and I don't
bother with thread goop. I just nip them up tight. I think I would
notice fairly quickly if they came loose and I always carry a multi tool
so I could easily tighten the bolts while I am out.
Wear on the disk cause vibration that can counter-rotate the screws out. It may be likely that you look often enough at your bike to catch if but proper torque is not "nipping it up. As Andrew's picture demonstrates.

Every 6 bolt disk I bought came with screws with that blue goop on. Every centerlock disk I bought came with a lockring. If you torque the screws or lockring to spec the disk don't come loose.

Lou

While I agree with your comments via the locktite compound, how do you "torque" the center ring properly? Mine came with a plastic tool that you hand-tightened.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/Lnc1af6H3V1rNhTd8

Lou

The center lock wheels I had had a large ring and nothing at all like that tool you showed. The plastic tool fit over the OD of the ring and was hand tightened.

As far as I know Shimano 'invented' the center lock system and the lock ring uses the same spline pattern as the lock ring for their cassettes and you use the same tool to secure both rings.

From my spare parts cabinet:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/giz6J28VTghKAY8d8
https://photos.app.goo.gl/HxvuSdawFzqs1vyo9

I can't remember anything you described for a disk rotor. I can remember a plastic tool to preload/adjust a XTR FC-970 crankset.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/yuSXJawUwwtjMZRn8


Lou

Shimano uses both an internal spline lock ring (which uses a cassette tool) or an external spline lock ring, which uses a BB cup tool. https://images..coloradocyclist.com/...enterlock..jpg 44nm is not insignificant torque. I use this: https://www.parktool.com/product/bot...-tool-bbt-69-2

Tom should get a metal tool.

-- Jay Beattie.

On Wednesday, July 1, 2020 at 8:44:16 PM UTC+2, jbeattie wrote:
On Wednesday, July 1, 2020 at 10:46:31 AM UTC-7, Lou Holtman wrote:
On Wednesday, July 1, 2020 at 5:58:34 PM UTC+2, wrote:
On Tuesday, June 30, 2020 at 9:30:20 AM UTC-7, Lou Holtman wrote:
On Tuesday, June 30, 2020 at 5:59:21 PM UTC+2, wrote:
On Tuesday, June 30, 2020 at 8:46:01 AM UTC-7, Lou Holtman wrote:
On Tuesday, June 30, 2020 at 4:29:59 PM UTC+2, wrote:
On Tuesday, June 30, 2020 at 1:04:04 AM UTC-7, James wrote:
On 29/6/20 4:24 pm, Tosspot wrote:
On 29/06/2020 02:06, jbeattie wrote:
On Sunday, June 28, 2020 at 2:41:57 PM UTC-7, AMuzi wrote:
There's a lot wrong here but the flopping disc and loosened bolts
have worn into the fork casting.

http://www.yellowjersey.org/photosfr...t/faildisc.jpg

Could be a great advertisement for earbuds!

Wow, even with earbuds, how do you not feel that? I use loctite on my
six-bolt rotors or the factory supplied thread-locker on rotor
bolts.

I've never comeÂ* cross the idea that people *don't* use a drop of
LocTite Blue on them.Â* One of the few (only?) places I use thread lock.

I admittedly have not been using disc brake equiped bikes for many
years, but I haven't had any rotor bolts come loose either and I don't
bother with thread goop. I just nip them up tight. I think I would
notice fairly quickly if they came loose and I always carry a multi tool
so I could easily tighten the bolts while I am out.
Wear on the disk cause vibration that can counter-rotate the screws out. It may be likely that you look often enough at your bike to catch if but proper torque is not "nipping it up. As Andrew's picture demonstrates.

Every 6 bolt disk I bought came with screws with that blue goop on. Every centerlock disk I bought came with a lockring. If you torque the screws or lockring to spec the disk don't come loose.

Lou

While I agree with your comments via the locktite compound, how do you "torque" the center ring properly? Mine came with a plastic tool that you hand-tightened.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/Lnc1af6H3V1rNhTd8

Lou

The center lock wheels I had had a large ring and nothing at all like that tool you showed. The plastic tool fit over the OD of the ring and was hand tightened.

As far as I know Shimano 'invented' the center lock system and the lock ring uses the same spline pattern as the lock ring for their cassettes and you use the same tool to secure both rings.

From my spare parts cabinet:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/giz6J28VTghKAY8d8
https://photos.app.goo.gl/HxvuSdawFzqs1vyo9

I can't remember anything you described for a disk rotor. I can remember a plastic tool to preload/adjust a XTR FC-970 crankset.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/yuSXJawUwwtjMZRn8


Lou

Shimano uses both an internal spline lock ring (which uses a cassette tool) or an external spline lock ring, which uses a BB cup tool. https://images.coloradocyclist.com/p...centerlock.jpg 44nm is not insignificant torque. I use this: https://www.parktool.com/product/bot...-tool-bbt-69-2


Ah, I didn't know that. Makes sense for a 15 or 20 mm through axle

Tom should get a metal tool.

I agree.

Lou

On Wednesday, July 1, 2020 at 11:44:16 AM UTC-7, jbeattie wrote:
On Wednesday, July 1, 2020 at 10:46:31 AM UTC-7, Lou Holtman wrote:
On Wednesday, July 1, 2020 at 5:58:34 PM UTC+2, wrote:
On Tuesday, June 30, 2020 at 9:30:20 AM UTC-7, Lou Holtman wrote:
On Tuesday, June 30, 2020 at 5:59:21 PM UTC+2, wrote:
On Tuesday, June 30, 2020 at 8:46:01 AM UTC-7, Lou Holtman wrote:
On Tuesday, June 30, 2020 at 4:29:59 PM UTC+2, wrote:
On Tuesday, June 30, 2020 at 1:04:04 AM UTC-7, James wrote:
On 29/6/20 4:24 pm, Tosspot wrote:
On 29/06/2020 02:06, jbeattie wrote:
On Sunday, June 28, 2020 at 2:41:57 PM UTC-7, AMuzi wrote:
There's a lot wrong here but the flopping disc and loosened bolts
have worn into the fork casting.

http://www.yellowjersey.org/photosfr...t/faildisc.jpg

Could be a great advertisement for earbuds!

Wow, even with earbuds, how do you not feel that? I use loctite on my
six-bolt rotors or the factory supplied thread-locker on rotor
bolts.

I've never comeÂ* cross the idea that people *don't* use a drop of
LocTite Blue on them.Â* One of the few (only?) places I use thread lock.

I admittedly have not been using disc brake equiped bikes for many
years, but I haven't had any rotor bolts come loose either and I don't
bother with thread goop. I just nip them up tight. I think I would
notice fairly quickly if they came loose and I always carry a multi tool
so I could easily tighten the bolts while I am out.
Wear on the disk cause vibration that can counter-rotate the screws out. It may be likely that you look often enough at your bike to catch if but proper torque is not "nipping it up. As Andrew's picture demonstrates.

Every 6 bolt disk I bought came with screws with that blue goop on. Every centerlock disk I bought came with a lockring. If you torque the screws or lockring to spec the disk don't come loose.

Lou

While I agree with your comments via the locktite compound, how do you "torque" the center ring properly? Mine came with a plastic tool that you hand-tightened.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/Lnc1af6H3V1rNhTd8

Lou

The center lock wheels I had had a large ring and nothing at all like that tool you showed. The plastic tool fit over the OD of the ring and was hand tightened.

As far as I know Shimano 'invented' the center lock system and the lock ring uses the same spline pattern as the lock ring for their cassettes and you use the same tool to secure both rings.

From my spare parts cabinet:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/giz6J28VTghKAY8d8
https://photos.app.goo.gl/HxvuSdawFzqs1vyo9

I can't remember anything you described for a disk rotor. I can remember a plastic tool to preload/adjust a XTR FC-970 crankset.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/yuSXJawUwwtjMZRn8


Lou

Shimano uses both an internal spline lock ring (which uses a cassette tool) or an external spline lock ring, which uses a BB cup tool. https://images.coloradocyclist.com/p...centerlock.jpg 44nm is not insignificant torque. I use this: https://www.parktool.com/product/bot...-tool-bbt-69-2

Tom should get a metal tool.

-- Jay Beattie.

I have both of those tools. But neither match the center-lock disk wheels I had. The Spline was very large and you just tightened it with the plastic tool by hand and I assume that because of the direction of rotation each time you put on the disk it would tighten the disk locking mechanism though I didn't trust it and still shot some locktite on it. But it never loosened even though it was only handtight. I don't even remember the manufacturer but I still have that tool around someplace. For that matter I don't even remember the bike it was on since I have had such a large turnover until now. It was probably a hardtail.

On Friday, July 3, 2020 at 11:48:34 AM UTC-7, wrote:
On Wednesday, July 1, 2020 at 11:44:16 AM UTC-7, jbeattie wrote:
On Wednesday, July 1, 2020 at 10:46:31 AM UTC-7, Lou Holtman wrote:
On Wednesday, July 1, 2020 at 5:58:34 PM UTC+2, wrote:
On Tuesday, June 30, 2020 at 9:30:20 AM UTC-7, Lou Holtman wrote:
On Tuesday, June 30, 2020 at 5:59:21 PM UTC+2, wrote:
On Tuesday, June 30, 2020 at 8:46:01 AM UTC-7, Lou Holtman wrote:
On Tuesday, June 30, 2020 at 4:29:59 PM UTC+2, wrote:
On Tuesday, June 30, 2020 at 1:04:04 AM UTC-7, James wrote:
On 29/6/20 4:24 pm, Tosspot wrote:
On 29/06/2020 02:06, jbeattie wrote:
On Sunday, June 28, 2020 at 2:41:57 PM UTC-7, AMuzi wrote:
There's a lot wrong here but the flopping disc and loosened bolts
have worn into the fork casting.

http://www.yellowjersey.org/photosfr...t/faildisc.jpg

Could be a great advertisement for earbuds!

Wow, even with earbuds, how do you not feel that? I use loctite on my
six-bolt rotors or the factory supplied thread-locker on rotor
bolts.

I've never comeÂ* cross the idea that people *don't* use a drop of
LocTite Blue on them.Â* One of the few (only?) places I use thread lock.

I admittedly have not been using disc brake equiped bikes for many
years, but I haven't had any rotor bolts come loose either and I don't
bother with thread goop. I just nip them up tight. I think I would
notice fairly quickly if they came loose and I always carry a multi tool
so I could easily tighten the bolts while I am out.
Wear on the disk cause vibration that can counter-rotate the screws out. It may be likely that you look often enough at your bike to catch if but proper torque is not "nipping it up. As Andrew's picture demonstrates.

Every 6 bolt disk I bought came with screws with that blue goop on. Every centerlock disk I bought came with a lockring. If you torque the screws or lockring to spec the disk don't come loose.

Lou

While I agree with your comments via the locktite compound, how do you "torque" the center ring properly? Mine came with a plastic tool that you hand-tightened.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/Lnc1af6H3V1rNhTd8

Lou

The center lock wheels I had had a large ring and nothing at all like that tool you showed. The plastic tool fit over the OD of the ring and was hand tightened.

As far as I know Shimano 'invented' the center lock system and the lock ring uses the same spline pattern as the lock ring for their cassettes and you use the same tool to secure both rings.

From my spare parts cabinet:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/giz6J28VTghKAY8d8
https://photos.app.goo.gl/HxvuSdawFzqs1vyo9

I can't remember anything you described for a disk rotor. I can remember a plastic tool to preload/adjust a XTR FC-970 crankset.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/yuSXJawUwwtjMZRn8


Lou

Shimano uses both an internal spline lock ring (which uses a cassette tool) or an external spline lock ring, which uses a BB cup tool. https://images.coloradocyclist.com/p...centerlock.jpg 44nm is not insignificant torque. I use this: https://www.parktool.com/product/bot...-tool-bbt-69-2

Tom should get a metal tool.

-- Jay Beattie.

I have both of those tools. But neither match the center-lock disk wheels I had. The Spline was very large and you just tightened it with the plastic tool by hand and I assume that because of the direction of rotation each time you put on the disk it would tighten the disk locking mechanism though I didn't trust it and still shot some locktite on it. But it never loosened even though it was only handtight. I don't even remember the manufacturer but I still have that tool around someplace. For that matter I don't even remember the bike it was on since I have had such a large turnover until now. It was probably a hardtail.

You may be encountering Shimano's FU'd move to different BB/disc lockring standards. They now have 39/41/44 OD BBs. Only the 44mm/16 notch tool fits rotor lockrings, and you may have one of the other BB standards. You may have an off-brand, too.

-- Jay Beattie.

On Friday, July 3, 2020 at 12:50:58 PM UTC-7, jbeattie wrote:
On Friday, July 3, 2020 at 11:48:34 AM UTC-7, wrote:
On Wednesday, July 1, 2020 at 11:44:16 AM UTC-7, jbeattie wrote:
On Wednesday, July 1, 2020 at 10:46:31 AM UTC-7, Lou Holtman wrote:
On Wednesday, July 1, 2020 at 5:58:34 PM UTC+2, wrote:
On Tuesday, June 30, 2020 at 9:30:20 AM UTC-7, Lou Holtman wrote:
On Tuesday, June 30, 2020 at 5:59:21 PM UTC+2, wrote:
On Tuesday, June 30, 2020 at 8:46:01 AM UTC-7, Lou Holtman wrote:
On Tuesday, June 30, 2020 at 4:29:59 PM UTC+2, wrote:
On Tuesday, June 30, 2020 at 1:04:04 AM UTC-7, James wrote:
On 29/6/20 4:24 pm, Tosspot wrote:
On 29/06/2020 02:06, jbeattie wrote:
On Sunday, June 28, 2020 at 2:41:57 PM UTC-7, AMuzi wrote:
There's a lot wrong here but the flopping disc and loosened bolts
have worn into the fork casting.

http://www.yellowjersey.org/photosfr...t/faildisc.jpg

Could be a great advertisement for earbuds!

Wow, even with earbuds, how do you not feel that? I use loctite on my
six-bolt rotors or the factory supplied thread-locker on rotor
bolts.

I've never comeÂ* cross the idea that people *don't* use a drop of
LocTite Blue on them.Â* One of the few (only?) places I use thread lock.

I admittedly have not been using disc brake equiped bikes for many
years, but I haven't had any rotor bolts come loose either and I don't
bother with thread goop. I just nip them up tight. I think I would
notice fairly quickly if they came loose and I always carry a multi tool
so I could easily tighten the bolts while I am out.
Wear on the disk cause vibration that can counter-rotate the screws out. It may be likely that you look often enough at your bike to catch if but proper torque is not "nipping it up. As Andrew's picture demonstrates.

Every 6 bolt disk I bought came with screws with that blue goop on. Every centerlock disk I bought came with a lockring. If you torque the screws or lockring to spec the disk don't come loose.

Lou

While I agree with your comments via the locktite compound, how do you "torque" the center ring properly? Mine came with a plastic tool that you hand-tightened.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/Lnc1af6H3V1rNhTd8

Lou

The center lock wheels I had had a large ring and nothing at all like that tool you showed. The plastic tool fit over the OD of the ring and was hand tightened.

As far as I know Shimano 'invented' the center lock system and the lock ring uses the same spline pattern as the lock ring for their cassettes and you use the same tool to secure both rings.

From my spare parts cabinet:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/giz6J28VTghKAY8d8
https://photos.app.goo.gl/HxvuSdawFzqs1vyo9

I can't remember anything you described for a disk rotor. I can remember a plastic tool to preload/adjust a XTR FC-970 crankset.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/yuSXJawUwwtjMZRn8


Lou

Shimano uses both an internal spline lock ring (which uses a cassette tool) or an external spline lock ring, which uses a BB cup tool. https://images.coloradocyclist.com/p...centerlock.jpg 44nm is not insignificant torque. I use this: https://www.parktool.com/product/bot...-tool-bbt-69-2

Tom should get a metal tool.

-- Jay Beattie.

I have both of those tools. But neither match the center-lock disk wheels I had. The Spline was very large and you just tightened it with the plastic tool by hand and I assume that because of the direction of rotation each time you put on the disk it would tighten the disk locking mechanism though I didn't trust it and still shot some locktite on it. But it never loosened even though it was only handtight. I don't even remember the manufacturer but I still have that tool around someplace. For that matter I don't even remember the bike it was on since I have had such a large turnover until now. It was probably a hardtail.

You may be encountering Shimano's FU'd move to different BB/disc lockring standards. They now have 39/41/44 OD BBs. Only the 44mm/16 notch tool fits rotor lockrings, and you may have one of the other BB standards. You may have an off-brand, too.

-- Jay Beattie.

I found that tool the other day. I threw it in one of the pertinent tool boxes. I have tool boxes for everything. Car repairs, Sailboat repairs, motorcycle repairs, normal bike repairs and the latest for Di2. I think I sold off one for wheel assembly back with building your own wheels was par de course. I think I've sold off all of my guns and guitars while I was still concussed. The guitars must have been worth $50,000 dollars. So I must have given them away. I had a 30-30 original Winchester That must have been more than that but I have never found gun shop that admits to getting them off of me. 3" barrel .357 pistols that had a perfect grip that would pull down on perfectly on a target. I had max hand loads for those that could penetrate bulletproof glass. I still have those, at least I wasn't dinged out so much as to let those out into the public. At the time I loaded those you could buy surplus cop cars that were armored. And I still would drive through Oakland. Now even the freeway isn't safe.

wrote:
On Tuesday, June 30, 2020 at 1:04:04 AM UTC-7, James wrote:
On 29/6/20 4:24 pm, Tosspot wrote:
On 29/06/2020 02:06, jbeattie wrote:
On Sunday, June 28, 2020 at 2:41:57 PM UTC-7, AMuzi wrote:
There's a lot wrong here but the flopping disc and loosened bolts
have worn into the fork casting.

http://www.yellowjersey.org/photosfr...t/faildisc.jpg

Could be a great advertisement for earbuds!

Wow, even with earbuds, how do you not feel that? I use loctite on my
six-bolt rotors or the factory supplied thread-locker on rotor
bolts.

I've never comeÂ* cross the idea that people *don't* use a drop of
LocTite Blue on them.Â* One of the few (only?) places I use thread lock.

I admittedly have not been using disc brake equiped bikes for many
years, but I haven't had any rotor bolts come loose either and I don't
bother with thread goop. I just nip them up tight. I think I would
notice fairly quickly if they came loose and I always carry a multi tool
so I could easily tighten the bolts while I am out.
Wear on the disk cause vibration that can counter-rotate the screws out.
It may be likely that you look often enough at your bike to catch if but
proper torque is not "nipping it up. As Andrew's picture demonstrates.

I’ve never had this happen, used disks for 13/14 years, the old MTB is now
the commuter and has done fairly intergalactic mileage, did change the
brakes about 7/8 years ago can’t remember if the rotas where changed at
that point or not?

Either way the rotas have been there and on my other two bikes for quite a
few years and haven’t ever loosened, clearly can happen.

Roger Merriman