Handlebar width & height on a road bike?

Looking at the setup advice insome of my old books and articles and recalling how KOPS has basically been discouraged of late got me to wondering about handlebar setup for road bikes.

Does any of this still hold true for bikes:

1. Handlebars should be as wide as your shoulder bones at thefront of your body?
2. Handlebar height and stem reach should be such that the handlebarblocks the front hub from your view when you're on the bike?

Cheers

On 25/09/12 09:05, Sir Ridesalot wrote:
Looking at the setup advice insome of my old books and articles and
recalling how KOPS has basically been discouraged of late got me to
wondering about handlebar setup for road bikes.

Does any of this still hold true for bikes:

1. Handlebars should be as wide as your shoulder bones at thefront of
your body?

Give or take a bit ;-)

2. Handlebar height and stem reach should be such that the
handlebarblocks the front hub from your view when you're on the
bike?

Hmm, that leaves the position fairly flexible.

How about where you feel comfortable?

We are all built slightly different and have different capabilities
(strength, flexibility, weakness, riding style and purpose) which
dictates different positions to get comfortable. I don't think there's
a formula.

FWIW, my front axle is clearly in view when I'm sitting on my bike. The
bars appear in front of the axle, but I have long arms, a flexible back
and consequently low bars that are a fair way forward.

--
JS

"Sir Ridesalot" wrote in message
...
Looking at the setup advice insome of my old books and articles and
recalling how KOPS has basically been discouraged of late got me to
wondering about handlebar setup for road bikes.

Does any of this still hold true for bikes:

1. Handlebars should be as wide as your shoulder bones at thefront of your
body?
2. Handlebar height and stem reach should be such that the handlebarblocks
the front hub from your view when you're on the bike?

Cheers

Sir Ridesalot,
In going back and forth between old and new bikes with drop bars, the new
ones seem consistently wider.
Kerry

bar should be wide enough to allow free breathing....at 6'4 a stock Raleigh '78 bar was way too narrow for beathing efficency.

stock bat placement was waaaaaay to low for commuting or continues spine health.

The wreches at Palm Beach BICYCLERY fixed it with a custom stem...incroyable.

so when new parts were ordered for my Redline XC Trek....an adjustable was brought in from Universal Cycles.

non recreational position....bolt upright is kinda %% rare in Fla...old age.

check your breathing...there a zen book onit....world catalogue....very good advice.

Sir Ridesalot wrote:
Looking at the setup advice insome of my old books and articles and recalling how KOPS has basically been discouraged of late got me to wondering about handlebar setup for road bikes.

Does any of this still hold true for bikes:

1. Handlebars should be as wide as your shoulder bones at thefront of your body?
2. Handlebar height and stem reach should be such that the handlebarblocks the front hub from your view when you're on the bike?

I'm particularly skeptical of item 2. For one thing, if two riders were
identical in every measurement except one had a long neck and the other
a short neck, that rule of thumb would put them on different bikes.
That makes no sense to me.

--
- Frank Krygowski

On Mon, 24 Sep 2012 20:23:00 -0400, Frank Krygowski
wrote:

Sir Ridesalot wrote:
Looking at the setup advice insome of my old books and articles and recalling how KOPS has basically been discouraged of late got me to wondering about handlebar setup for road bikes.

Does any of this still hold true for bikes:

1. Handlebars should be as wide as your shoulder bones at thefront of your body?
2. Handlebar height and stem reach should be such that the handlebarblocks the front hub from your view when you're on the bike?

I'm particularly skeptical of item 2. For one thing, if two riders were
identical in every measurement except one had a long neck and the other
a short neck, that rule of thumb would put them on different bikes.
That makes no sense to me.

Apparently it is one of those "basic" measurements like the knee over
pedal axle that get passed on and on. I certainly remember reading
that the "correct" position and bike fit would have the handlebar
obscure the front axle when you are in the drops as long ago as the
1980's and it seemed to be common knowledge then.

--
Cheers,
John B.

On Sep 25, 12:05*am, Sir Ridesalot wrote:
Looking at the setup advice insome of my old books and articles and recalling how KOPS has basically been discouraged of late got me to wondering about handlebar setup for road bikes.

Does any of this still hold true for bikes:

1. Handlebars should be as wide as your shoulder bones at thefront of your body?

For a touring bike, yes, for racing then a slightly narrower is easier
for close riding. For high level efforts it is useful then to rotate
one's hands so that one's thumbs point inwards. This allows one's
elbows to move out so giving one's ribs space to move. For criterium
racing I am certain that the slightly narrower bar helps in stability
(with thumbs in) when bumping in the pack. With wider bars they are
more easily knocked and one becomes over-cautious of close riding.
The only way to make space is to bump and one can get more weight
behind the hand with the narrower bar.

2. Handlebar height and stem reach should be such that the handlebarblocks the front hub from your view when you're on the bike?

That seems to pan out with typical road bars but if one does not
insist on using the maximum length,or longer, cranks that one can
usefully use, there is some flexibility in position which means this
datum does not necessarily exist. When sticking to 700C wheels then
I've heard that this also to be an erroneous assumption for men below
5'6" or over 6'2" . Bar choice is so personal and the reach or drop
and it's positioning will depend on how one performs in each of the
three basic positions. Always fit the bar so the drop is level with
the ground. If you can only perform well with the bar cocked then
change the bar, it's position (stem adjust or swap) or brake lever
position (or size or type).

On Sep 25, 12:50*pm, John B. wrote:
On Mon, 24 Sep 2012 20:23:00 -0400, Frank Krygowski

wrote:
Sir Ridesalot wrote:
Looking at the setup advice insome of my old books and articles and recalling how KOPS has basically been discouraged of late got me to wondering about handlebar setup for road bikes.

Does any of this still hold true for bikes:

1. Handlebars should be as wide as your shoulder bones at thefront of your body?
2. Handlebar height and stem reach should be such that the handlebarblocks the front hub from your view when you're on the bike?

I'm particularly skeptical of item 2. *For one thing, if two riders were
identical in every measurement except one had a long neck and the other
a short neck, that rule of thumb would put them on different bikes.
That makes no sense to me.

Apparently it is one of those "basic" measurements like the knee over
pedal axle that get passed on and on. I certainly remember reading
that the "correct" position and bike fit would have the handlebar
obscure the front axle when you are in the drops as long ago as the
1980's and it seemed to be common knowledge then.

--
Cheers,
John B.


If it reassures an otherwise excuseful rider then the psychology has
worked.

Per Sir Ridesalot:

2. Handlebar height and stem reach should be such that the handlebarblocks the front hub from your view when you're on the bike?

Seems tb related to saddle setback, which might be moot in most
cases.

I just checked it against my "Pavement" bike and it was pretty
close. If I weren't using such a bizarre saddle setback it would
be right on the money.
--
Pete Cresswell

The most important factor with handlebar width is to ride what's comfortable. I agree, choosing a wider bar gives you a little more breathing room, but the shoulder width really isn't the driving issue. Unless you're a robot, of course.

There are three factors to consider with handlebar width:

1. A narrower bar gives you a leaner tuck, and I agree, riding in close quarters, using a 42cm or narrower is important if you might be rubbing elbows. You really want to avoid touching handlebars in a criterium.

2. A wider bar, in my case running a 44cm, really feels HUGE after riding 27 years on a narrow bar. It gives you plenty of room, and when in the drops, the elbows are clear of the knees.

3. Bottom line, it really boils down to rider feel. Racing, narrow is a necessity, but a slightly wider bar gives you a few advantages, like more room for the pinkies when cruising, with the hands on the crossbar (flats).